Replaces
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Semi-Metallic 5 Piece Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
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16 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
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Ceramic 21 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Brake Kit
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Part Details
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
In this video I'm going to show you how to service the front wheel bearings in this 2001 Chevy S-10 pickup. Same as any S-10 pickup, or the Blazer, and this is a two wheel drive vehicle.
Tools you'll need for this job are jack and jack stands, 19mm socket and ratchet or a lug wrench, 3/8 Allen wrench, a combination wrench for some extra leverage on that Allen wrench, a wire brush or medium sandpaper to clean off some bolts, 27mm socket and ratchet, pliers, torque wrench, bearing grease, a hammer or a press, and race installation tools or large sockets.
For the next two minutes or so here, I'm going to show you taking apart the wheel and the breaks to get the rotor off. Here I'm just taking the caps off of the lug nuts, then removing that center cap, then removing the wheel. Here I'm actually removing the dust cap from the hub. Now removing the wheel. Now going through removing the breaks. The brakes are held on by two 3/8 Allen bolts. Use a large screwdriver to pry out and loosen up the caliper, it helps get it off easier. Use a wrench on the Allen wrench, it gives it a little more leverage if you hook that on there like that, and remove those bolts that hold the caliper in place. Now, to remove the rotor take a rag and wipe the grease out of here, and there is a cotter pin right here. Take a good pair of needle nose pliers, if you can bend it up and then pull it out that's a good thing. Sometimes what's easiest to do is just take the ends and bend them and break them off, that makes it easy to pull out. This one's coming out fairly easily. This truck has a 27mm bolt, and it's not uncommon to be able to put this on there and just undo it by hand. You don't tighten this bolt up significantly. Take the bolt off, now the bearing assembly, the washer comes off, along with my rotor. The bearing stays put for now. Take that out so that it doesn't fall out.
I need to clarify for you, you're going to see me working on the old rotor that I tool off the truck, and then you're going to see me working on a new rotor. I want this video to talk to if you have a good rotor, you need to take the bearings out, take the bearing races out, and then reinstall the bearing races and the bearings. I need to put new rotors on this truck because the old ones are worn out, so that's why you see me working on two different rotors. I show you how to remove the rear seal and the races using the old rotor, and then I show you how to reinstall the race in the old rotor using the old rotor and the old race, because my new rotor came with the races installed. Generally, when you replace just bearings, you replace the bearings and races. I show you how to do that with the old rotor.
We've got a seal in here, so what you want to do is take a pair of pliers, lay them across like that, take a screw driver, and carefully pop that seal right up and out. A little freeze frame here. I'll tell you, I admit I was shocked at how easily that came out. You didn't see the look on my face on the camera because my face isn't on the camera. Generally you'll have to work a little harder at pulling the seal out than that. Like I said, for some reason it kind of popped right out, but that's how you do it. You put your pliers or another screw driver across there and use that as a lever, and put your screw driver in underneath, and pry it up and out. Now, inside is your inner bearing. Again, take some paper towel and just try and excavate as much of the grease out as possible.
Next we need to remove the bearing race. The race is this surface here, and it can wear just like the bearing. From the back side you can see that there is a surface, if you put your fingernail in, you can see that there's a surface that you can grab onto. You want to turn your rotor over, and I'm going to use this crew driver to point it out, right down in here there is that back side of that race. What we want to use is an impact tool with a nice flat head, and rounded so it doesn't scratch the rotor. We put that tool right down on the back of that race, and you want to hit it on one side, then hit it on the other side. Hit it back in here. You want to keep hitting it on different sides so that you drive the race out uniformly, you don't want to try and drive one side out all at one time. Keep hitting it in different positions. Here is that race out.
Another freeze frame here. I drove the race out of the back side of the rotor. There's also a race on the front side of the rotor that you want to drive out. Now in this next scene I'm going to reinstall the old race in the old rotor, and I'm only doing this not because I'm reusing it, but I'm doing it to show you how to do it. The reason I'm using the old race on the old rotor is because the new rotors from 1A Auto that I reinstall on this truck come with the race installed already, so I didn't really think it was necessary to drive a new race out of a new rotor just to drive it back in.
To reinstall it I've got a race installation tool, this is the right tool to do it. You just want to drop the race down in there, then this tool should be basically the exact same size as the race, maybe a little smaller. Just make sure that you drive it straight down in. You need to have a metal tool to do this, because you need to make sure that it goes straight, and you need to make sure that you're hitting it nice and firm. Now once I make a nice solid sound with the hammer I know it's all the way seeded.
One last freeze frame here. Obviously you would also repeat that step for the front or the outer nearing race, and now you're going to see me working on a brand new rotor with hub. It's just picking up where this one left off with the rotor that I'm actually going to install on the truck.
Here's my new rotor and hub from 1A Auto, with the race installed. I'm going to take a good amount of wheel bearing grease and coat the inside of the hub. I'm going to put a light coat on the race itself. You don't want to have globs on the race; you just want to have a nice light coat on there. Now I'm going to take my bearing and I'm going to work grease right into the cracks where I can see the ends of the roller. On the front side I'm going to work it right into this crack here, then I'm going to coat the rollers outside, not quite so much, just a good coating. I'm going to take my finger and wipe out the inside here, I don't want any big globs of grease in there. Now drop the bearing right in. I'm going to take my seal and drop it on like that. You can use a piece of wood or something like that; I'm just using a larger block of metal, a larger bearing installer. Just make sure that that's nice and evenly installed. I'm going to take the rotor, keep it on the plastic, flip it over, and I'm going to take some grease and just like on the back side, just pack it in there a little bit. Let a light coating stay on the race itself, but not a lot.
Take some paper towels; wipe off your spindle here. You want to check for any ... run your finger on here with a little grease on it. I can see some markings here, but there's no real wear on the spindle. The two surfaces, one here where the inner bearing is, and here where the outer bearing is, there's no real wear on the spindle, so the bearings weren't spinning, which is good. Put the grease on the outer bearing; pack it into that crevice on the back. Put out rotor in place, notice I'm trying not to touch the rotor a lot with my greasy fingers. We've got our bearing in place. Clean the grease off out washer, put the washer on, put our bolt on. We're going to take our ratchet and we're going to pull it a little bit tight, and we're going to spin the rotor around a little bit. We're going to loosen this up, and then we're going to pull it tight again just barely, probably two or three foot pounds, not a lot. We're going to put out nut back on. We're going to pull it kind of tight, we're going to rotate the rotor a little bit, that seats the bearings. We're going to loosen this, then we're going to bring it so it's just starting to seat, then you pull it just a little bit, probably two or three foot pounds. This comes through, grab the end, bend it over, and then that's not going to come out.
We're going to put our dust cap back on and make sure that there's no harmful dust in it. From here on out I'm going to speed through putting the brakes back together. If you want to see this in regular speed, just check out our other videos, we have it in more detail there. There are two important last steps: torque the lug nuts, obviously, to a hundred foot pounds each, and then make sure whenever you take your brakes apart, make sure you pump your brakes before hand, and also do a test stop from five or ten miles an hour before you take your car out on the road.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll be showing you how to replace a front hub on this four wheel S10 Truck, same as any 97 to present S10 or Blazer. Tools you'll need are metric sockets, 10mm-19mm, 18mm and 13mm wrenches, Jack and Jack Stands, 35mm Socket for the Hub Nut, Large Screwdriver or a Pry bar, some Penetrating Oil and a Torque wrench to put it back together.
Okay so first, if you're using hand tools, you're going to want to loosen your Log Nuts up and that's going to do with a 19mm wrench and you want to do this on the ground obviously because that way the wheels won't be moving. Then the other thing you're going to want to do is you're going to want to use your 34mm socket, 35mm actually. Now I'm going to raise the car up and secure it. Okay, so I've raised the wheel. I'm working on up off the ground. By putting the jack under there and then actually I have jack stand under the frame here and that's what's really going to hold the weight. Now I'm going to remove the tire. Now I could remove the center hub nut and the washer. Okay, now I'm going to remove my brake caliper by removing this bolt here and then down on the backside, this bolt here. Okay, they're 18mm bolts.
Okay now I'm going to use my wrench just pry the caliper right off then rest it right up here. Take the disc off. Now I'm going to remove the clips for the hub harness here and here. Okay and then the harness goes right up in here. Okay, and I just disconnected it. Then you can just use a screwdriver. I can't really. That's why you need a screwdriver to pry it up out of the frame there. Okay. Here's how I'm just coating those two little nuts with penetrating oil and then I'm going to take the small one off. Actually, I'm going to finish prying that clip up and out and now I'm going to take the small one off with a 10mm wrench. Okay and here this next shot, I'm actually showing you how to get the wrench up in behind there to hold that bolt. That's where you want to place the wrench in order to hold the bolt on the other side and not here. I'm just removing that clip bolt.
Okay and here I'm just finishing up taking out that bolt. Actually like to cut up the bolt and the nut back into the control arm just for safe keeping so that I know where they are. Here is the last clip that's on the frame. This is a 13mm bolt and so I'm unbolting from the frame here. Now I just pull in harness out and free and I'm going to pull the clips off the harness so I can put them on to the new hub harness when I'm ready to install it. Now you want to remove your hub just three bolts, one in the back, one in the middle and the top and then one over here in the front.
These are 18mm bolts. Okay so front and rear ones you can get to with an impact wrench or a regular wrench. The top one is a little more difficult. You have to use a hand wrench and it helps if you swivel the steering that helps you get to the bolts that much easier. Then as you can see as I'm taking them out, you can pry with a pry bar or a large screwdriver. Replaces one right back here. There's a little place that in the flange that you can get a screwdriver into and pry against the steering knuckle and then also in behind right where the steering knuckle is here on in the front and you can see me get it apart now. I'm just shaking it. You want to be careful not to bend that backend plate too much. Basically I lead that top bolt in. It's very loose but it's still in there. Now you can see the hub comes right out and hold the harness out and away from the backend plate and your hub is out.
There's this little rubber o-ring that you want to make sure it goes back on correctly. Okay so here's the new one with the hubs off versus the old one. See the leads are all the same, has the same bracket, same end. It's going to mount the same. Everything's going to be all the same. Okay so ends the removing of the hub. Reinstalling is pretty easy. It's a reverse of procedure and obviously you need to use a torque wrench, torque the small bolts to 65 foot-pounds and the hub nut to 95 foot-pounds as well as your lug nuts, it's 75 foot-pounds. We do have this detailed in another video. That is a reply to this video. Also, you can just search for S10 hub and find the installation video.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly--that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
This is part two. We're going to install the front hub on this 4-wheel drive S10. Same as Blazer, Jimmy, and Sonoma. Tools you're going to need are metric sockets, 10-19mm, plus some metric wrenches, jack and jack stands, a 35-mm socket for the hub nut, large screwdriver or pry bar, penetrating oil, a torque wrench and you might want to throw in a hammer and a rubber mallet, too. Here's the new 1A Auto hub versus the old one. See, leads all the same, has the same bracket, same end. Now it's going to mount the same. Everything's going to be all the same. Next step, take our old ring and put it onto the new hub. Now is as good a time as any to grease the lower ball joint, the tie rod end, and the upper ball joint. Technically it goes on here like that. Feed the harness through. The connector is going to be where that big gap is. We'll get this up in here, get everything somewhat lined up. Grab one of our bolts, make it one of the easy ones down here, put it through, work it in, get it going a little bit.
Now I'm going to speed it up. Now I'm going to work the other two bolts in. Then I'm going to use a ratchet and socket and tighten them up. Shifting the steering a little bit to get to them. You do want to try to tighten them up evenly. You don't want to just tighten one all the way up because you want to pull the hub into the steering knuckle pretty much evenly. So I'm just rotating around and tightening. After this, I'll set my torque wrench to 65 foot-pounds and torque them up. Now you tighten these up to about 65 foot-pounds. Now we're going to put the harness back in. Remember here, you've got a little 10-mm bolt there on that first clip and you got a 13-mm bolt and nut on that second clip and you have to clip it in together with the brake line. The hub harness goes in behind the brake line, so the bolt goes to the hub harness first then the brake line harness. Then it's opposite on the frame connector. The brake line goes onto the frame and then the hub harness goes on top of it. So tighten up that bolt, tighten up the frame and then... Tighten the frame, and then you can take the clip, put it onto the frame, connect them together. Once they're connected, pull your flap back down and you're all set.
Here I'm putting the rotor back on. I apologize for the poor camera work here, I didn't realize I wasn't shooting it very well. I'm putting the lug nut, just one on. Just to keep the rotor in place. Makes it easier to get the caliper on. I'm grabbing the caliper. I'm also not touching the disk or the brake pad surface. You want to try to keep them clean, keeps your brakes working better. If you do hit them, just use a little linseed oil or brake parts cleaner. Then I use the rubber mallet to persuade the caliper on there. Put the bolts in for the caliper. They should be torqued to 50 to 60 foot-pounds. The top, I didn't get a torque wrench on, so I used my well-calibrated arm and hand, as you'll see. After that, torque up the bottom one correctly. I'm going to tighten the hub nut up with an impact wrench. I'm going to watch in back here, as you can see, there's a little gap right here. This shiny ring. That will close up as I tighten and I'll just stop before that closes all the way because I want to tighten that with a torque wrench when the car is on the ground. I replaced my hub and those three bolts have been torqued. I put my brake back on, those bolts have been torqued. I reinstalled my line here. That's all tight. Now I need to put my wheel back on. I'm going to torque the lug nut to 90 foot-pounds. Now I'm going to torque the wheel lug nuts to 75 foot-pounds. Put my cap back on. Lug nut covers.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
