Replaces
8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$249.95
8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$257.95
4 Piece Suspension & Drivetrain Kit
$267.95
6 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$280.95
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$334.95
12 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$386.95
8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$399.95
12 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$409.95
12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$440.95
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a stabilizer link on this Chevy Cobalt, pretty much the same for any Cobalt as well as the Pontiac G5. The stabilizer link makes kind of a rattling or thunking noise when you go over a bump. A good indicator that it's your stabilizer link is if you're getting that rattling noise and then, you turn your vehicle, you take a curve, and the rattling noise goes away; that usually means it's a pretty good indicator that it's that stabilizer link that's bad. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a ratchet. You'll need some pipe for some extra leverage as well as a breaker bar and 15mm and 18mm wrenches. It's pretty much a bolt-on, bolt-off, but sometimes these nuts are really difficult to remove, so there's some techniques in this video that will help you out.
Use a 19mm socket or lug wrench and remove the lug caps and the wheel cover. If you don't have access to air tools, you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first and then raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire.
Now, use an 18mm wrench and you can grab on the back side there and then use an 18mm socket and ratchet and remove that nut. Use a little bit of penetrating oil just to help get that nut off easier. Now, I'm using my 18mm socket with the ratchet and a piece of pipe. You can use pipe or if you have a breaker bar. You just need some extra leverage. Get that bolt to move some, and then, actually, grab on to the wrench, hold the wrench, and start it loosened and then you can do it by hand the rest of the way. Once you remove that nut, then you can just knock out or remove the top of that stabilizer link. Now, here what I've done is I've supported the bottom of the suspension. What that allows, is it allows me to get a breaker bar onto that bottom bolt and first you can pull the breaker bar, which breaks the nut and the bolt, breaks it free. Then you see with the breaker bar, I start loosening up that nut. You're just going to have to work at it, it's kind of tough to get apart. Just go at it for a while and the nut eventually comes off. Actually, after you get it loosened somewhat, you can get your ratchet on there, and then, use the ratchet to get the nut the rest of the way off. Once you have that off, you can just reach up in there and pull the stabilizer link out.
So, the 1A strut is pretty much the same thing. It has a little different sizes. It's a 19mm nut and a 15mm stud. We'll fast forward through this part. You just take that stabilizer link and put it back into the new strut and put the nut on, and tighten the nut up. You want to get it nice and tight. If you were to torque it, I guess it would be probably about 45 to 50 foot-pounds. Also, if you have ABS brakes, you want to reconnect any clips or anything that holds the wiring to the strut.
Reinstall the tire. You want to put the lug nuts on by hand first and then just kind of preliminarily tighten them, and torque them when the vehicle is back down on the ground.
We'll tighten and torque these to 20 foot-pounds. We'll speed up here as I do that. On the inside one you can't really get a torque wrench on it, so I just used a small combination wrench and got it nice and tight. 20 foot-pounds is not that tight. You don't want to over-tighten them because you could strip them and these are not bolts that you want to strip. Now torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds each and then replace either your wheel cover or the wheel caps and the retainers
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1A Auto dot com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video I'm going to show you front strut replacement on this 2005 Chevy Cobalt. I'll obviously show you the driver's side. You do want to replace your struts in pairs, so replace the driver's side and the passenger's side at the same time. This is the same process for pretty much any '05 to '10 Cobalt, as well as the Pontiac G5. This vehicle does not have ABS brakes, so there would be ... if you have ABS, there's probably just a bracket that's bolted to the strut that you would need to remove. Tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, thirteen to nineteen millimeter sockets with ratchet and extension, an eighteen millimeter wrench, a hammer. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage on a couple of the nuts and bolts, and a torque wrench for reassembly.
Underneath the hood of your car, we're going to start on the driver's side. We'll show you the driver's side. Obviously when you replace struts you want to replace them in pairs, so the passenger's side is basically the same procedure. But there are three nuts that hold the strut at the top. There are fourteen ... or I'm sorry. There are thirteen millimeter nuts. You want to remove one of them completely, and then the other two you can remove, but then just kind of thread them back on, so it holds the strut in place. Use a nineteen millimeter socket or lug wrench, and remove the lug caps and the wheel cover. If you don't have access to air tools, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first, then raise the vehicle, remove the lug nuts. Now use an eighteen millimeter wrench, and you can grab on the back side there, and then an eighteen millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove that nut. A little bit of penetrating oil just to help get that nut off easier.
Now I'm using my eighteen millimeter socket with the ratchet and a piece of pipe. You can use pipe, or if you have a breaker bar. You just need some extra leverage to get that bolt to move some, and then actually grab onto the wrench. Hold the wrench, and just start it loosened, and then you can do it by hand the rest of the way. Once you remove that nut, then you can just knock out or remove the top of that stabilizer link. Now you'll need to remove these two nuts. Also, if you have ABS brakes, there's probably a bracket bolted in up here. These two nuts are eighteen millimeters. I'm just going to shoot them with a little bit of penetrating oil first. Use your 18 mm socket. Use a pipe for some extra leverage. Fast forward here as I remove those nuts the rest of the way. Then what you want to do is you can thread the nut back onto the bolt, probably about four or five turns. That just protects the end of the bolt. Use a hammer, and drive the bolts out. Then obviously take the nut the rest of the way out, and drive it out the rest of the way. On this vehicle, the top one is a little stubborn. It takes a little more force with the hammer, and then I actually use the bottom bolt that drove out.
I use it to help drive the top bolt out the rest of the way. Once you have those bolts out, and the bottom loose, just reach up on the top, and remove the two nuts that you left on the top, and then you'll be able to pull the strut down and out. Take the new strut from 1A Auto, and I actually kind of do this the hard way here. What you want to do is put it up in, and you can either put one of your large bolts through the strut and the steering knuckle, and then start the three nuts up top. I hold it up, and start the three nuts up at the top first. But you start those. Then you get both of the bolts through the bottom and the steering knuckle, and then you can tighten those up. You just want to tighten those up kind of preliminarily, and then you'll torque them. Torque these to a hundred foot pounds. Fast forward through this part. You just take that stabilizer link, put it back into the new strut, and put the nut on, and tighten the nut up. You want to get it nice and tight. If you were to torque it, I guess it would probably be about forty-five to fifty foot pounds.
Also, if you have ABS brakes, you want to reconnect any clips or anything that was connected to the strut. Reinstall the tire. You want to put the lug nuts on by hand first, and then just kind of preliminarily tighten them. You'll torque them when the vehicle's back on the ground. Tighten and torque these to twenty foot pounds. I'll speed up here as I do that. On the inside one, you can't really get a torque wrench on it, so I just used a small combination wrench, and got it nice and tight. Twenty foot pounds is not that tight. You don't want to over tighten them, because you could strip them, and these are not bolts that you want to strip. Now torque your lug nuts to a hundred foot pounds each, and then replace either your wheel cover or the wheel caps and the retainers.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
