1998 Olds Cutlass with Tie Rod with Internal Threads Front 10 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA63530

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. I hope this how to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. In this video, I want to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2000 Olds Alero, this is a two door. Hub replacement is the same for any '99-'04 two or four door. Tools you need are jack and jack stands, 12, 13, 19, and a 35 millimeter socket. That 35 millimeter is one that a lot of people aren't going to have. You'll need a ratchet and a breaker bar or maybe a pipe for some extra leverage. Large c-clamp, wire brush, torque wrench, and possibly an axle puller.

Start off by removing your hub cap. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts, then raise and support your vehicle, then remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Turn the wheel for easier access, back the caliper. If you went in behind your calipers are held on by two 12 millimeter bolts, one there and one there. This should come off for you easily. We'll fast forward here as I remove those bolts the rest of the way. In order to get the caliper off, you might need to reduce some pressure on the brakes. You put your c-clamp right against your brake pad there, and then on the caliper there. Now, you can turn and loose, the caliper comes right off, and now you can just put the caliper right up here. Now, you can take your pads right now. You could see that they have wear marks and these pads are still in pretty good shape, and then, just use your finger and kind of run up on the ... run your finger on the disks, and if you don't feel any really deep grooves, they're probably okay.

To get our disks off, we're going to remove this caliper bracket, which is two bolts here, then one over here. These bolts are 15 millimeters and you're going to want like a breaker bar or use a piece of pipe on a ratchet, so these will be tight. I'll just fast forward as I change over to a ratchet and remove those bolts the rest of the way. The bracket's off here. Rotor comes right off. On the backside, you've got your ABS connector. Just pull back on this little tab, unplug that, and then, you'll want to use Phillips screwdriver, and remove that. Now, your hub is held on by three bolts. One here at the top, one down here, and then there's one over on the opposite side. Using an impact wrench, you want to probably loosen this at the start. You can actually put your wheel back on here right now, lower down on the ground, then use a big breaker bar or something to remove it to 35 millimeter. Now, I'm using 3/8 inch drive tools and just makes it a little easier to get back in there. A longer bar, because generally these are pretty tough, and the 13 millimeter, it came off pretty easily. I'll just fast forward here as I loosen but I don't remove the three bolt yet.

Here in this picture, you can see I've put a axle press or puller onto my hub, so there's the two kind of hands that reach behind the hub and hold it while they ... the bolt through the middle pushes the axle through. Quite honestly, I've done a lot of these hubs, and usually, what you can do is take a hammer and just give that axle a quick whack and they'll break it free. This is the first one in about a hundred that I actually had to use the press on. I'll just speed up here as I remove the bolts the rest of the way. The bolt's out. Pull the hub. Now, you may have to push your axle back in order to get the parts, we're able to kind of push the axle to the side. That comes out. A new hub from 1AAuto. It's got the ABS pigtail and everything, just like the original. Fit it in. Make sure that that connect to those screw. I'm going to speed it up. Basically, you just push it on and you might need to twist it just a little bit just to get it to line up with the axle, and then push it back and start one of the bolts in, then start the other two bolts. I don't tight them up all the way. You definitely want to start all three bolts first, then tighten them up most of the way, and then we will hook up our ABS lead, and then you need to torque those bolts on. Then, you want to torque this to 65 foot pound and I'll start with the back one. I'll put this parts in place. I got this bolt torqued up, and then, my harness back in place and my connector reconnected. I'll fast forward as I just change the position of the wheel, and then torque those other two bolts again 65 foot pounds.

Put the rotor back on, and just to help me get it back again, I usually put a lug nut on. Before we but this bracket on, it has stainless steel slides. Use a wire brush and clean this out really well. The other thing to check before you put this back together is make sure that this slide back and forth, in and out pretty easily. Put this on. The bolts that hold the bracket, you also want to tighten to 65 foot pounds. Basically, you could see my old pads are still in pretty good shape. This is a wear indicator that's grooved right here and it's still there, there is no life left in the pads. On the rear pods, you always want to put ... there is a tab here and you always want to put that towards the back side as far as the rotation go. Push that pads in. This is your ... your piston's already been reset. Put the brake down real nice and easy and just tighten these two bolts in.

Now, these two bolts, you only want to do between 15 and 18 foot pounds. I'm going put my center nut on there, and I'm just going to tighten it up preliminarily. Let's just speed up here as I use an extension and then tighten that top one up. Speed through here as we straighten that out, remove that lug nut, put the wheel entire back on, and then we'll just preliminarily tighten those lug nuts with our impact wrench and torque them when we get them on the ground. We'll tighten the lug nuts between 90 and a 100 foot pound. Now, you want to torque this center nut to a 173 foot pounds, and last but not least, line up the valves in with the wheel cover, put it on, and use your 19 millimeter socket just to tighten the caps by hand. Any time you take your brakes part, make sure you pump them a lot of times, and then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.

We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1A Auto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.

In this video we'll be showing you how to replace a stabilizer link on this 1997 Pontiac Sunfire. Basically the same as any '95 to '05 Cavalier and very similar to a lot of GM front stabilizer links. All you'll need is a couple wrenches and wrench size will vary. Okay sway bar links on the Sunfire Cavalier. Obviously you want to raise and support your vehicle, and you want to raise the front wheels off the ground evenly. You don't want to just put the left wheel up in the air or the right wheel up in the air, because the stabilizer bar is designed to act against that. So you'll actually just make it more difficult for yourself to take it apart. So when you raise the vehicle, on these vehicles you probably want to place the jack right here on this pinch weld behind the front wheel. You can raise it here and then support it here, and then raise the other side and do the same thing. Okay so here we are under the vehicle. We're looking towards the front of the car. Here's your stabilizer link, you can see these have been replaced recently.

So I'm just going to show you how to take them out and put them in. What can happen on these is these rubber bushings can wear out and then you have a metal on metal, or metal on metal down here. Also, what can happen is these studs can rust and just break. Some symptoms of your sway bar links being broken is your car will lean more in turns, and also another symptom if one of these bushings wears out, you'll hear a clanging when you go over bumps when your car is straight, but then if you're turning and you hit a bump you may not hear the clang because the sway bar will be counteracting the turn and just pulling itself tight against the metal. So these replacement sway bar, these replacement links are 9/16ths. Probably the originals are 13 millimeters. But it's pretty easy. You just want to get under here. Most likely if you have your originals on here, once you start doing this they're probably going to break. You just remove this bolt, you need to hold this nut with a wrench. So there's your link out. So when you put the link back in, you want to put a washer on, and then a bushing, and then you put the stud up through the control arm.

You put the bushing on with these stepped sides go into the holes. So it goes into that hole there. You can see here that stepped side goes into the hole in all cases. Whenever the bushing's against metal, you want them in the hole like that. So we have a bushing, put that up through. Now we need a washer. Then after the washer, there's a spacer. Then another washer. Then a bushing, and again the stepped side goes up into the stabilizer bar. Then a bushing on the other end, with the stepped side going down into the stabilizer bar. And then a washer. Generally these washers are just a little bit dished to hold the, actually they look pretty flat. They're a little dished to hold the bushing kind of within itself. They squeeze together. This is a lock nut so it's only going to thread on a little ways at first, and then you're going to get some resistance. Take your wrench, and hold. Torque specs on this is 13 foot pounds, so it doesn't have to be too tight. But what I like to do is kind of go slow at first. Make sure everything gets seated correctly. Make sure all these bushings are going where they need to go. Go a little further. Basically this goes all the way, the bolt goes all the way until it bottoms out. And that's basically it.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green, one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we'll be removing the hub on this 1999 Pontiac Grand AM. This is Part One of Two. Again, it's the removal of the hub. Removing the hub on this car is basically the same as just about GM car from about 1993 to present. Maybe tools will vary a little bit, but the basic procedure is the same. That's any GM, any Buick, Chevy, Pontiac or Olds, Saber Bonneville, Impala, all those vehicles.

Here are the tools you'll need. Keep in mind that sizes may differ by application. You may also need an axle puller or a gear puller if your hub is stuck together.

We'll start by lifting up the car and securing it. Obviously, if you're going to use a floor jack and jack stands, make sure that you follow safety instructions. I'm going to take off the wheel.

I got the wheel off. Now, I'm going to the other side and I'm going to grab the tire, turn the wheels all the way to the left. That gets usually better access to the back of the brake caliper, which is the next thing I'm going to take off.

I remove the brake caliper and its 13 millimeter bolts one on top and one on the bottom. I have the luxury of an impact wrench. Now we've unbolted the caliper and I'm just going to grab hold of it and pull it off. It makes a little better if you have a tie on the spring here. This probably ought to do it. Basically, you might be able to just take this one off here and stick it on there and stick it out of the way. Just secure it with a piece of string or something so that it doesn't fall down in your way. I found a nice piece of wire here. I'm just going to wrap it around the caliper here just so if it does fall, something holds onto it and it doesn't fall in.

Now we're going to remove the brake rotor.

We can usually get to one bolt. I'll show you that. With the right tools, we can get to the second bolts. Those three bolts now hold in the hub and you can see I had my wrench on the top one.

I like to do this one first; it's the hardest one to get to. You can see here I got a 3/8 wrench with an extension and I can get in there nicely. It's not coming, so I can show you a little trick for some extra torque. Take a nice big wrench, run the smaller wrench. The key is to be holding the wrench against the nut so it doesn't come off and strip the head of the nut. Here it comes. Alright, this is also where having coated the backs will come in handy. Got that one out.

Now these two, I can easily get to with anything half inch or impact. The other one, we'll have to get once you turn the full steering column around. We'll just grab hold of the other wheel and turn it this way. That will make it easier to get to the third one. See if I can get this one.

What you do is just use this little tip: Just pull evenly. Don't just try and jerk it because you could knock something off. Just pull harder and harder and harder and eventually it will come.

Now what I'll do is I'll go around the car to the other side. I'm just going to grab hold of the wheel and turn it. There are a couple things here. Since this car is ABS, disconnect this ABS sensor.

Then this clip. I can just reach in behind and pull it off. That goes obviously with the hub. Here is, I hope you can see it. Get these guys out of the way. Here is my third bolt. I put my wrench on. Excuse me. Again, it's just so easy to hook onto there. Actually, the bolts aren't.

Now, I have in the past on these past on these cars, you end up just can't get the bolt out. The head breaks off or strips. What you can do. I think you can see this well enough, is you can use the sawzall, and it's actually not that bad. With a good blade, in about a minute, you can cut through the hub and then the bolt and it comes off. You just punch the bolt out the other side. Then you'll have to go down to the hardware store and get a new bolt that's the right length in size. Fortunately, on this car, we didn't have to resort to that. Now remove those bolts and go the next step.

I haven't taken those bolts all the way out yet. I'm going to remove this large center bolt first. You're really going to need an impact wrench and a large socket. I've got a 34 millimeter socket on there.

Now I've got the bolts off of that and I've got it off and actually I'm lucky here because this hub just pulled off of the axle shaft. Let me put it back on here for a second. Hopefully, if you car's good, everything will pull apart. But if it doesn't just pull apart, you'll want either an axle puller or a gear puller that basically adhere to the lug nuts and then the shaft goes in and pushes right against the axle or it clamps onto the flange here. The same thing. The bolt goes in and pushes. It's either a gear puller or an axle puller. You don't want to use a hammer. You do want to bend this with a hammer, because you'll end up ruining your CV joints. You want to press that out. I can remove my old hub. Basically, there's a connector. I'm pushing the axle out of there. I can push this axle without worrying about it too much. But you don't want to bang on it.

Obviously, this is my old hub. Here's my new hub, nice and shiny. You can see everything's the same. It's got the same connector on it. Everything on the back side is all the same. Let's make sure we have the original bolts here. Slide it right in.

Remember to check out our other videos for the installation of this hub. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. The company that's here for you on the Internet and in person. Thank you.