/2004 Chevrolet Malibu with New Body Style without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension) Front 6 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56248
2004 Chevrolet Malibu with New Body Style without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension) Front 6 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56248
Kit Includes: (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Lower Control Arms with Ball Joints (2) Front Sway Bar Links
Quantity: 6 Piece
Specification
Steering / Suspension Option
without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension)
Vehicle Body Option
with New Body Style
Location
Front
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 2005-10 Pontiac G6
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 2005-10 Chevy Cobalt
Created on:
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
Measuring Tape
Hammer
Torque Wrench
18mm Wrench
13/16 Inch Wrench
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
Make note of this measurement
Loosen the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Remove the 18mm nut from the outer tie rod end
Loosen the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Strike the steering knuckle with a hammer to loosen the outer tie rod
Pull the outer tie rod out of the steering knuckle
Twist off the outer tie rod by hand
3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod
Twist the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod
Push the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle
Place vise grip pliers to hold the other part of the ball joint
Fasten the 18mm nut onto the outer tie rod with a socket
Place the pliers on the bottom of the bolt
Tighten the nut with an 18mm wrench
Tighten the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
This should be the same as the measurement noted in Step 2
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Tighten the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tire rod on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same as any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as a Saturn Aura. We show you the right-hand or passenger side, but the left-hand driver side is the same procedure. You'll need a new tie rod or tie rods from www.1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a socket wrench, maybe even a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage, tape measure, 18mm wrench, large adjustable or a 13/16 wrench, hammer, and a torque wrench.
Depending on what wheels you have, start out be removing the lug caps, and then we'll cover if applicable. Then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise and support the vehicle. I'll remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
Use a tape measure to get a general idea of a total length. You can use a reference point of the outer part of the boot, and then the outer part of the tie rod end, and just remember that number. On the end of the tie rod is an 18mm, so I'm using the socket and socket wrench to remove that nut. I'll fast-forward as I take off that nut.
Locate the nut at the end of the outer tire rod. We're going to go ahead and just loosen it just a little bit. I'm using a 13/16 wrench. You can use the metric equivalent. With a hammer, go ahead and give the end of that spindle a whack and pull the outer tie rod out. Then you can go ahead and unscrew it. I'll fast-forward through that. Be as careful as you can to not turn the inner tie rod.
Here, we're going to reinstall. You'll notice we are reinstalling the old one. There's nothing wrong with the tie rods on this vehicle. We just are doing this to show you how to do it. Tie rods from 1A Auto are going to be an exact match to the original. You may want to just measure the length. There could be a slight difference in length, and you would want to make sure you align it well.
Go ahead and put that 18mm nut back on the outer tire rod. I'm using a small pair of vice grips to hold the other part of the ball joint so that it doesn't spin as I tighten up that 18mm nut. There might be other ways that you would find easier to do it, but that's the one that I use. Then once I get it through, I'll be able to put the vice grip on the end that's coming through the nut. You can see here that once I take that socket off, I'll have plenty of room to put that on, and then use an open-ended wrench.
Here, I'm using that vice grip on the bottom, and I'm going to use an open-ended wrench to finish up tightening it up. I'll fast-forward through this. Now tighten up the nut on the inner tie rod that we just slightly loosened. Make sure that's snug up against the back portion of that outer tie rod. I'm just verifying that the tire rod is in somewhat of a right position, and it will be ready for me to take over to have an alignment done.
Install the wheel, and tighten up on your lug nuts. I'll go ahead and fast-forward through this. In a star pattern, go ahead and torque your lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds. Reinstall your hubcap, and make sure that you line up the notch in the hubcap for where your valve stem is. Then, by hand, use your 19mm socket to tighten up those plastic lug nut covers. I'll fast-forward through that.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
15mm Wrench
Hammer
Torque Wrench
18mm Wrench
8mm Wrench
Jack Stands
19mm Wrench
19mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Testing the Stabilizer Link
Turn the wheel by hand or with the steering wheel
Try to move the stabilizer link by hand
A clanking or rattling noise indicates a faulty stabilizer link
2. Removing the Wheel
Loosen the lug nut covers with a 19mm socket
Pull off the hub cap
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
3. Removing the Stabilizer Link
Apply penetrating oil to the stabilizer link bolts
Attach an 18mm wrench to the top stabilizer link nut
Attach an 8mm wrench to the top stabilizer link stud
Turn the 18mm wrench to remove the nut
Attach an 18mm wrench to the lower stabilizer link nut
Attach an 8mm wrench to the lower stabilizer link stud
Turn the 18mm wrench to remove the nut
Pull out the stabilizer link
4. Installing the New Stabilizer Link
Put the new stabilizer link into place
Start the nuts onto the stabilizer link
Attach a 15mm wrench to the upper stabilizer link bolt
Tighten the nut with a 19mm socket and ratchet
Attach a 15mm wrench to the lwoer stabilizer link bolt
Tighten the nut with a 19mm wrench
Tighten the nuts to between 40 - 45 foot-pounds of torque
5. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Put on the hub cap, lining up the hole with the tire valve stem
Tighten the lug nut cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link. The symptom of a bad stabilizer link is if you're hearing a clunking in the front of your car, but when you go around a curve, either left or right, the clunking seems to go away. That's usually a sign that your stabilizer link is starting to loosen up. Tools you'll need are 8mm to 19mm wrenches as well as a hammer.
Turn your wheel all the way to one side or the other. Then you can reach in behind and you can see it here. This is the top of your link. You can reach in behind and grab that with your hand and shake it back and forth and if you can duplicate that clanking or rattling sound then that's what you need to replace.
Start out by using a 19mm socket or a wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground, then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel.
Right here is our stabilizer link. Use a little bit of penetrating oil on the upper and lower, let that sit for awhile. We've got an 18mm wrench on the bolt and 8mm wrench on the end of the shaft there. It looks like it actually coming loose, there goes that bolt. Get that started. Put this on there and I'm going to put this one on down there and same thing. Here's a close up look. I've got the 18mm wrench on there. The 8mm wrench is just holding that stud in place and I just keep flipping back and forth with the larger wrench, grabbing onto the nut and removing it. I'm just going to speed up the tape here. It takes a little while to get these things apart. It's a tedious task of getting the wrenches in there, holding it with the smaller wrench and then using the small one and then just angling the larger wrench in there as best you can. Eventually it comes apart.
Here's a new link from 1A Auto. Iit's a little bit different but it actually makes it easier to install. You'll need a 15mm wrench to hold this on that side and then a 19mm socket and ratchet to put the bolt on. We're going to put down in. It mounts in just like your original. Start the locking bolt on here and we'll start the locking bolt down here. Up top, I put my 15mm wrench through from the backside and then a 19mm socket and ratchet. I'll just speed it up as I tighten it up with the ratchet and you want to get it nice and tight and probably 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then continuing on down to the lower, it's the same as taking it apart. You really can't get a wrench in there or a ratchet in there so you just have to use a wrench. I used the 15mm wrench to hold the stud and then a 19mm wrench to tighten up the nut and it just takes a little while and, then, again, tighten it up between 40 to 45 foot-pounds.
Once you have the wheel back in place then you put the lug nuts on by hand and I just use my impact wrench to just tighten them preliminarily. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem then use a socket to tighten up the retainers.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
PSA56248
In Stock
Product Reviews
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5.00/ 5.010
10 reviews
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Hi quality. Exact fit.
Mark
January 22, 2017
All parts were high quality. Tie rods came with grease fittings -- better than the original ones. The videos from your site always help. I would recommend these parts. Always best prices too.
Parts ordered
Pete
May 12, 2017
I purchased ball joints and tie rod ends and control arms for a 2007 Chevrolet Malibu everything fit perfect also saved me 500 dollars for 2.5 hrs of work thanks I will definitely purchase from you again.
John
December 24, 2017
The parts Were the right fit and I look forward to getting other parts for my projects in the near future.
Parts
T
March 26, 2018
I thought the quality of the parts was excellentWrite your review here. It must be at least 50 characters long. Consider whether you would recommend this product and what you like or dislike about it.
2010 Malibu front suspension
E
July 28, 2018
Installed all parts on my own. The A1 online videos were extremely helpful in preparing me for what to expect as well as the process. The sway bar links included in the kit, in my opinion, were much easier and installer friendly than the originals I removed. The passenger side lower control arm presented me with a bit of a wrestling match to get it to install but certainly not a problem with the part. I estimate in total to install both sides it took me a half day maybe a bit longer.
My rating is based on; delivery, ease of ordering, what appears to be quality products and quality installation videos. I cannot speak to the long-term quality of the product.
Great Service
F
August 21, 2018
Phone support was very good. Turn around time on shipping was very fast!
Great accurate parts
David
October 24, 2018
This has to be one of the best on line parts store there is I've ordered from here a few times and is my preferred site has the best prices parts are right when they drive and normally are delivered before the actual date they say normally 3 days on regular delivery
6 piece steering and suspension kit for 2008 Pontiac G6
T
April 29, 2020
The product arrived on time, fit perfectly. Works properly. Would recommend to anyone.
Works great.
Eric
December 3, 2021
This kit is what I needed for my Pontiac G6. The car has over 250,000 miles on it and everything was worn out. This kit fit perfectly and works like it is brand new.
Kenneth
April 3, 2024
Great
Customer Q&A
Will these work on my 2004 Chevy Malibu LT?August 20, 2018
Quartney L
10
This will fit as long as your model is without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension).
August 20, 2018
Emma F
How do I find out if my car is without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension).?August 20, 2018
Quartney L
10
You would be able to check your VIN and it would tell you if you have the suspension.
August 20, 2018
Emma F
Customer service
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