2009 Saturn Aura with 300mm Front Sway Bar Links with Hydraulic Steering without RPO Code FE5 (Performance Ride Handling Suspension) Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA63474

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a stabilizer link on this Chevy Cobalt, pretty much the same for any Cobalt as well as the Pontiac G5. The stabilizer link makes kind of a rattling or thunking noise when you go over a bump. A good indicator that it's your stabilizer link is if you're getting that rattling noise and then, you turn your vehicle, you take a curve, and the rattling noise goes away; that usually means it's a pretty good indicator that it's that stabilizer link that's bad. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a ratchet. You'll need some pipe for some extra leverage as well as a breaker bar and 15mm and 18mm wrenches. It's pretty much a bolt-on, bolt-off, but sometimes these nuts are really difficult to remove, so there's some techniques in this video that will help you out.

Use a 19mm socket or lug wrench and remove the lug caps and the wheel cover. If you don't have access to air tools, you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground. Loosen the lug nuts first and then raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire.

Now, use an 18mm wrench and you can grab on the back side there and then use an 18mm socket and ratchet and remove that nut. Use a little bit of penetrating oil just to help get that nut off easier. Now, I'm using my 18mm socket with the ratchet and a piece of pipe. You can use pipe or if you have a breaker bar. You just need some extra leverage. Get that bolt to move some, and then, actually, grab on to the wrench, hold the wrench, and start it loosened and then you can do it by hand the rest of the way. Once you remove that nut, then you can just knock out or remove the top of that stabilizer link. Now, here what I've done is I've supported the bottom of the suspension. What that allows, is it allows me to get a breaker bar onto that bottom bolt and first you can pull the breaker bar, which breaks the nut and the bolt, breaks it free. Then you see with the breaker bar, I start loosening up that nut. You're just going to have to work at it, it's kind of tough to get apart. Just go at it for a while and the nut eventually comes off. Actually, after you get it loosened somewhat, you can get your ratchet on there, and then, use the ratchet to get the nut the rest of the way off. Once you have that off, you can just reach up in there and pull the stabilizer link out.

So, the 1A strut is pretty much the same thing. It has a little different sizes. It's a 19mm nut and a 15mm stud. We'll fast forward through this part. You just take that stabilizer link and put it back into the new strut and put the nut on, and tighten the nut up. You want to get it nice and tight. If you were to torque it, I guess it would be probably about 45 to 50 foot-pounds. Also, if you have ABS brakes, you want to reconnect any clips or anything that holds the wiring to the strut.

Reinstall the tire. You want to put the lug nuts on by hand first and then just kind of preliminarily tighten them, and torque them when the vehicle is back down on the ground.

We'll tighten and torque these to 20 foot-pounds. We'll speed up here as I do that. On the inside one you can't really get a torque wrench on it, so I just used a small combination wrench and got it nice and tight. 20 foot-pounds is not that tight. You don't want to over-tighten them because you could strip them and these are not bolts that you want to strip. Now torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds each and then replace either your wheel cover or the wheel caps and the retainers

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tire rod on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's pretty much the same as any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as a Saturn Aura. We show you the right-hand or passenger side, but the left-hand driver side is the same procedure. You'll need a new tie rod or tie rods from www.1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm and 19mm sockets with a socket wrench, maybe even a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage, tape measure, 18mm wrench, large adjustable or a 13/16 wrench, hammer, and a torque wrench.

Depending on what wheels you have, start out be removing the lug caps, and then we'll cover if applicable. Then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise and support the vehicle. I'll remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.

Use a tape measure to get a general idea of a total length. You can use a reference point of the outer part of the boot, and then the outer part of the tie rod end, and just remember that number. On the end of the tie rod is an 18mm, so I'm using the socket and socket wrench to remove that nut. I'll fast-forward as I take off that nut.

Locate the nut at the end of the outer tire rod. We're going to go ahead and just loosen it just a little bit. I'm using a 13/16 wrench. You can use the metric equivalent. With a hammer, go ahead and give the end of that spindle a whack and pull the outer tie rod out. Then you can go ahead and unscrew it. I'll fast-forward through that. Be as careful as you can to not turn the inner tie rod.

Here, we're going to reinstall. You'll notice we are reinstalling the old one. There's nothing wrong with the tie rods on this vehicle. We just are doing this to show you how to do it. Tie rods from 1A Auto are going to be an exact match to the original. You may want to just measure the length. There could be a slight difference in length, and you would want to make sure you align it well.

Go ahead and put that 18mm nut back on the outer tire rod. I'm using a small pair of vice grips to hold the other part of the ball joint so that it doesn't spin as I tighten up that 18mm nut. There might be other ways that you would find easier to do it, but that's the one that I use. Then once I get it through, I'll be able to put the vice grip on the end that's coming through the nut. You can see here that once I take that socket off, I'll have plenty of room to put that on, and then use an open-ended wrench.

Here, I'm using that vice grip on the bottom, and I'm going to use an open-ended wrench to finish up tightening it up. I'll fast-forward through this. Now tighten up the nut on the inner tie rod that we just slightly loosened. Make sure that's snug up against the back portion of that outer tie rod. I'm just verifying that the tire rod is in somewhat of a right position, and it will be ready for me to take over to have an alignment done.

Install the wheel, and tighten up on your lug nuts. I'll go ahead and fast-forward through this. In a star pattern, go ahead and torque your lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds. Reinstall your hubcap, and make sure that you line up the notch in the hubcap for where your valve stem is. Then, by hand, use your 19mm socket to tighten up those plastic lug nut covers. I'll fast-forward through that.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front stabilizer link. The symptom of a bad stabilizer link is if you're hearing a clunking in the front of your car, but when you go around a curve, either left or right, the clunking seems to go away. That's usually a sign that your stabilizer link is starting to loosen up. Tools you'll need are 8mm to 19mm wrenches as well as a hammer.

Turn your wheel all the way to one side or the other. Then you can reach in behind and you can see it here. This is the top of your link. You can reach in behind and grab that with your hand and shake it back and forth and if you can duplicate that clanking or rattling sound then that's what you need to replace.

Start out by using a 19mm socket or a wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground, then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Right here is our stabilizer link. Use a little bit of penetrating oil on the upper and lower, let that sit for awhile. We've got an 18mm wrench on the bolt and 8mm wrench on the end of the shaft there. It looks like it actually coming loose, there goes that bolt. Get that started. Put this on there and I'm going to put this one on down there and same thing. Here's a close up look. I've got the 18mm wrench on there. The 8mm wrench is just holding that stud in place and I just keep flipping back and forth with the larger wrench, grabbing onto the nut and removing it. I'm just going to speed up the tape here. It takes a little while to get these things apart. It's a tedious task of getting the wrenches in there, holding it with the smaller wrench and then using the small one and then just angling the larger wrench in there as best you can. Eventually it comes apart.

Here's a new link from 1A Auto. Iit's a little bit different but it actually makes it easier to install. You'll need a 15mm wrench to hold this on that side and then a 19mm socket and ratchet to put the bolt on. We're going to put down in. It mounts in just like your original. Start the locking bolt on here and we'll start the locking bolt down here. Up top, I put my 15mm wrench through from the backside and then a 19mm socket and ratchet. I'll just speed it up as I tighten it up with the ratchet and you want to get it nice and tight and probably 40 to 45 foot-pounds. Then continuing on down to the lower, it's the same as taking it apart. You really can't get a wrench in there or a ratchet in there so you just have to use a wrench. I used the 15mm wrench to hold the stud and then a 19mm wrench to tighten up the nut and it just takes a little while and, then, again, tighten it up between 40 to 45 foot-pounds.

Once you have the wheel back in place then you put the lug nuts on by hand and I just use my impact wrench to just tighten them preliminarily. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Now put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem then use a socket to tighten up the retainers.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.