Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove, inspect, and replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2007 Pontiac G6. It's fundamentally the same from 2005 to 2010, and from the left side to the right side. The items that you are going to need are jack and jack stands, 19mm, 15mm, and 14mm socket and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, C-clamp, and some brake grease.
Remove the plastic caps on the lug nuts with a 19mm socket. I'll fast-forward as I take those all off. Use a 19mm socket and socket wrench. If you have an air tool, go ahead and use that. You're going to remove the five lug nuts, and I'll fast-forward through that.
By hand, turn the hub assembly so that you can gain better access behind it. Doing a general front brake inspection, look through the window to see how much thickness is on the inside pad. Check your rotor. Run your finger along and check for any deep grooves or gouges. Then, check the outer pad thickness from where I'm pointing.
Use a 14mm socket and socket wrench, and remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. I'll fast-forward through removing those two 14mm bolts. Pull the caliper up and off of the caliper bracket and put it up and to the side.
Take a screwdriver and pry the pad away from the rotor. Do that for both the inner and outer pad. Remove the upper and lower metal brake pad guides. Using a 15mm socket and socket wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the caliper guide to the spindle assembly. I'm going to fast-forward as I take out those two 15mm bolts. Pull the caliper bracket up and out. Remove the brake rotor.
Our brakes were fine, so we're going to reinstall them. Go ahead and put your new rotor on. Then you can use a lug nut to keep it pressed against the hub while you finish up the brake work. I'm positioning the caliper so that I can use a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. You can do this with a C-clamp, or you can do it with a pair of large water pump channel lock style pliers. What you're going to want to do is put the screw clamp onto the piston, tighten it, which forces the piston back into place.
I'm going to reposition the wheel so that I can get that access to the back of it. Before I go ahead and put that caliper bracket back on, I want to make sure that the slides are well greased. I'll pull them out with the boot, and check to make sure that there's grease on them. If there isn't, I will do that, and go ahead and push that boot back onto the caliper bracket. I'm going to do that for both of those just to make sure everything is good. Then, I'm going to go ahead and put that caliper bracket back on with the 15mm bolts. I'm going to fast-forward as I reinstall those two 15mm bolts. I'm going to torque the two 15mm bolts to approximately 65 foot-pounds.
Clean up the metal slides that you took off the caliper bracket with a wire brush. Then reinstall them to both the top and bottom. Take your pads and lube up with a little brake grease the ends that will get in contact with those caliper slide brackets, and then, go ahead and slide them into place. Go ahead and take your caliper and slide it over the brake pads and onto the caliper bracket, lining it up with the two slides, top and bottom.
Reinstall the bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. I'm going to go ahead and fast-forward through that. Torque the two caliper bolts to roughly 35 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel and tighten up the lug nuts. I'm going to use an air gun, so I will fast-forward through this. I'm going to torque the five lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds, and I'm going to do it in a star pattern. Now, reinstall your hub cap, and I'm going to do that with that 19mm socket, and I'm just going to screw them in by hand.
Also, we want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hub cap for the valve stem. I'm going to fast forward through tightening that up.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front breaks on this 2006 Malibu. Procedures are the same for a few other GM Vehicles as well, the Malibu's, G5, Cobalt, HHR, Solstice and Saturn Sky as well as others. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 14, 15, and 19mm sockets and that could vary by car. Ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage, a flat blade screw driver, a large C-clamp, wire brush and a torque wrench. Start out by using a 19mm socket or wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts up while it's on the ground then raise and support your vehicle and then remove the lug nuts on the wheel. Grab hold of the steering knuckle and turn it to make it easier to reach the back of the caliper. Now, we want to inspect the condition of the breaks. The rotors are a little crusty. As far as rust, that's not always a bad thing. You want to just take your finger and run up and down the surface of the rotor. I can feel some pretty big ridges here on the edges which indicates that this may be worn down. Also, our pads, it's hard to see but if we look in here, there's very little pad life left. You can actually tell here better. This is the metal or the pad. It's almost right up against the rotor, so this needs new front brakes. First thing we're going to do is remove these two bolts here. These two bolts are 14mm and they should come off pretty easy. I'm just going to speed it up as I remove those two bolts.
Now, this should come off, but it's pretty easy on the ridges here. What you want to do is take a good size screw driver and try out with this hold and that loosens up the caliper and the caliper comes right off, put it right there for an hour and you can just try out your pads. As you can see, here's my pad, they actually is a little wear indicator. It says there's a little bit of life left, but I'd feel better replacing these. Here's my inner pad as well. Now, we need to remove this caliper bracket. We'll remove two 15mm bolts here and here. These are going to be somewhat tighter so I'm going to use my ratchet. If you have a breaker bar, that's the best thing or use a piece of pipe, put it on your ratchet, little extra leverage and it should be apart pretty easily. We'll pop one get it started. And I'm just going to speed it up again here as I remove those bolts. I found that once I turned them, probably three or four turns, they actually came out by hand. Take the rotor, pull it right off. New rotor from 1A Auto. Put it on, take a lug nut. Kind of hold it into place here. We'll cut this off. Now, I have to reset. This piston is working its way out of the caliper, so I'm just going to take my old pad like that and take a big C-clamp and make sure we're not pressing anything lighter on the back there. I'm taking up the C-clamp, the piston goes back in to the caliper. This rubber seal kind of pops out and you just work it right back in there with your fingers. Before we put this caliper bracket, two things, I want to make sure these are sliding in and out nice and freely. Then you also want to take a wire brush and just clean out these stainless steel slide. Now, take your bracket and it goes basically between the knuckle and the disk. Put your bolt in, it will find its way. This bolt, you want to tighten up to 85 foot pounds.
New pads from 1A Auto, quite a bit thicker than what we took off there and the rear one has this rear tab. You want to make sure that's on the upside, so put that one in the back. That little tab is what makes that constant squeaking noise as your breaks wear down when they get low. Put this one up front. You want to make sure that your slides are pushed in here. Bring your caliper down right on top. Two bolts. These two bolts, you want to take into 35 foot pounds. We have the wheel back in place, then you put the lug nuts on by hand and then I'm just using my impact wrench to just tighten them up preliminary. Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 pounds using a star pattern. Now, put your wheel cover back on. There is a hole for the valve stem, then use a socket to tighten up the retainers. Last but certainly not the least, before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the breaks a bunch of times to get the pedal to feel nice and firm. You have to reset those caliper pistons, then do stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace or do a rear brake job on this 2007 Pontiac G6. It's the same as any 2005 to 2010 G6, as well as the Saturn Aura. We show you the right hand side, which is the same as the left hand side. You'll need new brakes from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 13mm, 14mm, and 19mm wrenches as well as sockets, a ratchet, large screwdriver, wire brush, a caliper piston reset tool, and brake or white grease. Our car has good brakes on it so we just take them apart and put them back together to show you.
Start by using a 19mm socket, and depending on what wheels you have, this has wheel covers, so unscrew the caps and then the wheel cover comes off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise and secure the vehicle, and then remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
With the wheel off, you can see our pads have good life. Run the back of your fingernail on the disc. There's no groove. These brakes are actually in pretty good shape. We'll take them apart and put them back together to show you. Holding the caliper is two 14mm bolts. We'll speed up here. We use a 14mm wrench on the bolt. Then we actually have to hold the slides with either a 19mm or a 13/16 wrench. Now use a large screwdriver or small pry bar and just pry between the caliper and the disc. That will help loosen the caliper up a little bit. Now you can lift the caliper off.
Now the pads will pull out. For the inside pad, or maybe even the outside pad, you might want to use a screwdriver for a little extra leverage. Put it in between the pad and the rotor, and just pry it right out. Two 13mm bolt holds the bracket. We'll speed up here as we use a 13mm socket with a ratchet to remove those two bolts and remove that caliper bracket. Then we can remove the disc as well.
In order to put the brakes back together we'll need to reset the piston in the caliper. You need a special tool that actually spins the piston. You can see it there. It's available at most of our auto parts stores. Put that in with an extension. Hook your ratchet up to it, and then hold your caliper steady while you spin the piston back in. You're both turning the piston and pushing it back into the caliper.
Now make sure the slides in your caliper bracket are free. If they're not, if they're gummed up at all, pull them out like that, clean it up, re-grease them. Make sure they're nice and free. Then you'll want to wire brush the stainless steel slides where the brake pads sit.
Reinstall the rotor. Now reinstall the bracket and start the bolts in. Then we'll tighten up the bolts, and you'll want to torque them between 25 and 35 foot-pounds. Now apply a little bit of brake or white grease into the slides where you're going to install the brake pads into. The pads have a little notch in them, so you want to make sure you position the piston at the correct clock position so it'll slide down over the pads. We'll just turn the piston a little bit.
Now we're going to take our pads and put them into the slides. Make sure they go in correctly. They should be nice and free and moveable. Make sure, also, again, that you have the piston lined up so that it will go right down onto the pad. We put the pads in place. I will speed up here as we put the caliper back on. If you have any issue at all with that caliper going down at all onto the bracket, just check your caliper piston. Make sure it's lined up correctly. We'll put those bolts back on with our 14mm as well as our 19mm wrench. You want to just tighten these up nice and snug. They should be about between 18 and 19 foot-pounds.
Speed up here as we put our wheel and tire back on. Just start the lug nuts on there by hand first, and then tighten them preliminarily. With the car back down on the ground, we'll tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Last, but not least, put our wheel cover on there. Put the caps on carefully only using hand power to tighten those caps up. Last, but certainly not least, make sure you pump up the brakes. Get a nice firm pedal before road testing the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
