Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to do a rear brake job on this 2008 Chevy Equinox. This is basically the same for any Equinox and the Pontiac Torrent of this generation. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands; tire iron or 19-millimeter socket with a breaker bar to remove the lug nuts; a 5-pound sledgehammer . that's kind of optional; our vehicle had the aluminum wheels, and they were somewhat stuck on .; 14- and 15-millimeter wrenches; a T30 Torx driver socket with a ratchet, if you are planning on replacing the rotors; a ball-peen hammer, again, for replacing the rotors; wire brush; large C-clamp; and a torque wrench.
If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts while your vehicle's still on the ground, then raise and support the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts and wheel and tire. I'm fast forward as I remove those lug nuts. Okay, now you saw that I tried to hit it. I did put a lug nut back on and tried kicking, seeing if that can break it free. Unfortunately, it doesn't. Kicking it like that usually works, but if it doesn't, make sure you have a couple lug nuts on a few turns, big hammer, and you want to make sure you hit the tire. You do not want to hit the rim at all. Couple good hits with that.
Now you can inspect the brakes. The pads are worn pretty low. These rotors are still pretty nice and smooth. Pretty low-mileage vehicle, so they're in good shape. For now, we're just going to replace the pads, but I will show you how to take the rotor off and put it back on.
For the pads, there are two bolts. You want to loosen this bolt and remove this bolt. Bolts are 14 millimeter, and they should come off with a relatively small wrench. For this top one, you either want to use a wrench or just have a small extension for your ratchet. It's always easy to put the wrench on, hook another wrench on there. Gives you a little more leverage. Nice and smooth. Pull out on this caliper a little bit, just loosens it up. Remove this bolt down here, and the caliper just flips right up like that. Just use a regular flat-blade screwdriver to pry these pads right out. What you want to do next is, there's just these little stainless steel slides, pull those off. Then use a wire brush and clean them up really well. As soon as my slide's all cleaned up, I just put a touch of anti-seize. You can use that or some white grease. Just push these back into place. It always helps to just take a screwdriver, and make sure you push these on nice and tight. If you were just changing the pads, you put the pads back on.
If you want to take this whole rotor off, get in behind again. There are two more bolts, one here and one up there. These are 15-millimeter bolts. I'm going to use the wrench method again, just pull nice and easy until they come loose. I'm just going to fast-forward here. All I'm doing is working that wrench and removing those 15-millimeter bolts. Take that whole assembly right off.
This is a T30 Torx screw right here. If it doesn't come right off, put your lug nuts back on just a few turns. You want to use the ball end of a ball-peen hammer. You don't want to contact the rotor face. You want to hit it in the hub area. Once you see it moving, it pulls right off. Obviously, reinstall the new one. Put it on, and if the emergency brake doesn't feel a little bit resistant, you can actually adjust the emergency brake here. That can also be reached here. You could also reach that adjuster by pulling out this plug and using a screwdriver to turn that adjuster. I'll put that back on. Now put our bracket back in place. Put these bolts back in place, and then move it around a little bit until you get the bolts started. Fast-forward again here as I work those wrenches. Like I said, you put that bracket down in place, push the bolts in, and then turn them clockwise to get them started. Then I'm just working with the wrenches to tighten them up preliminarily. These should be tightened up to 75 or 80 foot-pounds. Lock my wrenches together again. Get them nice and tight.
Now you want to force this piston here, back into the caliper. What I generally do is take one of the old pads, put it right in there, a big C-clamp. Then as I tighten the C-clamp, it pushes that piston back in. Next thing you want to check is these bolts should slide back in place very easily, so just make sure they do.
Take my new pads from 1A Auto. You want to put the wear indicator, and you want to make sure it's on the down side, on the inside. Put the pads in. Make sure they squeeze together. Now to put the caliper back down, we have to push in on that side. These bolts can go back on. These bolts should only be tightened to about 20 to 22 foot-pounds, which I generally just use a wrench like this, and get them tight. Pretty much just give them a good push with this small wrench. That's usually pretty close. You see that this actually started spinning on me. I don't quite have the right wrench, so I'm just going to use a pair of pliers, make sure that's nice and tight.
Last but not least, if you did take the rotor off and replace it, put this little Allen bolt back in. Put this Torx bolt back in. Use a little brake parts cleaner or some mineral spirits to clean off the surface of the rotors.
I'll speed it up here as I put the wheel and tire back on. First, thread the lug nuts on by hand. Then tighten them preliminarily with a wrench before you put the vehicle on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Last but certainly not least, make sure you pump up your brake pedal. Get it a good, firm pedal, then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour before road testing your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2008 Chevy Equinox 3.4-liter V6 all-wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front brake pads and rotors. We recommend that these always be done together, as well as any pair. So, you do your pads and rotors on both your front left and front right wheel.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you want these parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 14-19mm socket, ratchet, socket extensions, breaker bar, T-30 Torx bit, bungee cord, mechanic wire, hammer, wire brush, brake grease, brake cleaner, flat blade screwdriver, groove jaw pliers, torque wrench
Using a 19mm socket and breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn with the weight of the vehicle on the tire. This will make it easier to remove them once we raise and support the vehicle. Raise and support your vehicle.
We're doing this on a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on. However, this job could easily be done in your garage or driveway using a jack and jack stands. Remove the rest of your lug nuts by hand. Remove the wheel and tire from the vehicle. Sometimes they get a little stuck on there, because it's an aluminum wheel on a steel hub. You have to wiggle them a little bit to break them free.
Using the T30 Torx bit and a ratchet, loosen up that bolt. Thought I might've needed that pry bar to counter support it, so it wouldn't turn. However, this one came out nice and easy. Remove the two 14mm caliper bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom, with a 14mm socket and ratchet. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Remove the caliper. Secure it up and out of the way with a bungee cord, zip ties, or mechanics wire. Remove the pads from the slides. You can use a flat blade screwdriver if you need a little more leverage here.
These are coming out pretty easy. Using an 18mm socket and breaker bar, loosen the caliper bracket bolts. Again, you're going to want to get both of these loose before you remove either one fully. Once you've cracked them loose, you should be able to remove them the rest of the way with a socket and ratchet. Remove the caliper bracket and place off to the side.
Remove the rotor. Ours is frozen on there pretty good. We're not reusing our rotors. We can hit it just about anywhere to make sure it pops off the hub. However, if you plan to reuse yours, hitting it in between the studs can get it off without damaging anything. Your rotors are really stuck on, you're just going to have to knock them off and replace them.
Here we have our old brake pads and rotors that we removed from our vehicle, and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same size rotor. They're also vented. They have the same 5-bolt lug pattern, same centerbore. The same bolt location for your rotor screw. Same brake pads. You can see why it was time to change these out. That's almost completely worn away. These probably had a couple thousand miles left on them. It's a lot better to change your brakes just before they need it, rather than after the fact, to make sure that your vehicle is always operating and stopping safely.
Each side also comes with one of these brake squealers. Which is designed to start dragging against the rotor and making some noise to give you an audible alert that it's almost time to do your brakes. You can see we have some rust and corrosion build up. These marks are from removing it with a hammer. They were pretty well frozen on there. We have a nice, smooth, even surface on our new rotor. If your old brakes are squealing, not stopping the way they should be, grinding, or are creating a pulsating brake pedal from a warped rotor. These new parts from 1A Auto are going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment. We fix you up right.
Using a steel wire brush or some Emory cloth sandpaper, or something like that, to remove the rust build up on the face of your hub. Clean that, as well as the centerbore, to make sure that there's no rust build up that'll make our rotors sit unevenly or freeze on prematurely. Once you've removed the bulk of the rust, we're going to apply a thin coat of brake grease to the face of the hub, as well as around the centerbore of the hub. This will make sure that if we ever need to remove our rotor, should it be an axle, a wheel bearing, the spindle, or something else, that we need to take our hub off, that it comes of easily. We don't have to hit it with a hammer, like you saw earlier. Making sure that it's removable and reusable down the road. As well as, making future brake jobs easier.
Install the rotor onto the hub backwards. Spray it down with some brake cleaner. This removes the coating they use to keep these from rusting in storage. Turn it around. Make sure you line up that beveled hole. Put the threads in the hub for your rotor screw. Spray down this side as well. Lay the rotor flat on the hub. Reinstall your T30 Torx screw.
If your brake clips, or shims here, have some heavy corrosion or are cracked or broken in any way you'll need to replace them. Ours looks okay. We'll just pop them off. Go nice and easy to try not to bend them. It may help to use a flat blade screwdriver just to help pop that up, especially in the middle. We'll use this small wire brush to clean all the rust and corrosion out of the places that that shim rides on. Once that's cleaned up, we'll clean up the shim itself. We'll grease the contact surface. Again, just a thin coat of brake grease here. Reinstall the clip. Grease the clip itself. Remove the slide from its rubber boot by holding down the boot. Pulling the slide out, if there's old grease that looks bad on there, wipe that off with a paper towel. Ours is okay. We'll put a little thicker coat of grease on there.
Reinstall it into the slide. Repeat all these steps on the opposite side of the caliper carrier. Reinstall the caliper bracket with your 18mm bolts. Tighten the bolts down with your 18mm socket and ratchet. Torque the bolts to 137 foot-pounds. Install your brake pad. I'm placing the rear one with the squealer at the top. That's how it came off of the vehicle. Sometimes they will interfere with the caliper if you place them in certain ways. I like to just put them back however they came off. We'll apply a thin coat of grease to the back. Do the same thing with the pad on the front. Using a pair of groove jaw pliers, slowly compress each caliper piston. If you go too fast you'll start pushing the other one out. Make sure both are fully seated.
We'll remove our bungee cord, mechanics wire, zip tie, or whatever it is you used to secure your caliper. Place it back on to the caliper bracket and pads. Reinstall the two 14mm brake caliper bolts. These don't get a ton of torque. I'm just going to bring them down as far as I can by hand, go straight to the torque wrench. However, you can use a socket and ratchet if you're having a harder time. Torque the caliper bolts to 20 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your wheel and tire. Get all five of your lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. Lower your vehicle until the weight is back on the tires. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a cross-pattern. Match the brakes on the other side using this same procedure. You're good to go.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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