Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front strut assembly. Now, we're doing this on the passenger side by the procedure is the same on the driver's, and we do recommend you replace these as a pair.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: full metric socket set, ratchet, socket extensions, breaker bar, torque wrench, 14mm x 2 nut, locking pliers, bungee cord, gloves, rust penetrant, jack and jack stands
Using a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home with a jack and jack stands. Remove your lug nuts the rest of the way by hand. Remove your wheel and tire.
Remove the nut on the bottom of your ball joint with a 19 millimeter socket and ratchet. Using the 19 millimeter socket and ratchet, loosen the nut on the upper ball joint and remove it. Remove the 19 millimeter nuts securing the sway bar link onto the strut, and we're going to try this with a 19 millimeter socket and ratchet. However, we may need a breaker bar and pair of vice grips. We couldn't quite get it loose with the socket and ratchet, so we're going for a 19 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, which seems to have done the trick. Now that it's loose, we'll go back to our ratchet.
Now, fortunately, ours isn't very rusty, so I'm just holding the back side of the sway bar link by hand to remove the nut. You may have to clamp it down with a pair of vice grips in order to get it to stay still while you remove the nut. We'll remove the top of the sway bar from the strut.
Using an 18 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, we'll loosen the bottom bolt for the strut. Now, the nut on the back of the strut is welded, so you shouldn't have to counter-hold it. However, if it starts spinning, you should be able to hold it steady with a 21 millimeter wrench. Once the bolt starts loosening up, you may be able to switch to an 18 millimeter socket and ratchet. The trick here is I'm putting my fingers behind the head of the bolt while I twist and pulling back at the same time to help spin it out of the bushing. Once the bolt is out of the threads, you should be able to just wiggle it out. Using a 13 millimeter socket, ratchet and extension remove the three 13 millimeter nuts on the top of your strut.
Now, we installed a strut bar into our vehicle; yours may or may not have one, but this process will be the same regardless. When you're removing the last 13 millimeter nut, you'll want to be sure to reach underneath the vehicle and support the strut with your other hand to make sure that it doesn't just drop out and damage something. Be careful not to overstretch the hydraulic brake hose. Go ahead and snap that ABS sensor off to give yourself a little more slack. Should be able to push down and remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
Here we have our old strut that we removed from our vehicle, and our new part from 1AAuto.com. What you see here is actually a quick strut or a complete strut assembly. This means that your new part comes with a new shock or strut tube with a new spring, new billow, new bump stop, and a new strut top and bearing. This means that the entire assembly can be changed out as a unit without the need for special tools and spring compressors, which can make the job more difficult and a little more dangerous. As you can see, there are some aesthetic differences where the springs look just a little bit different, but everything should match up to the same spring rates on our vehicle so it rides just like new.
We have the same flange here to mount the stud for our sway bar link, and we have the same forked flange at the bottom here, which will sit over the bushing in our lower control arm. However, the old part has this welded nut on it and the new part does not come with this. We needed to get our hands on an M14 by 2.0 nut for this; a flange nut would be preferred. Other than that, the new strut top has the same three bolt mounting location on it and comes with a nice new set of flange nuts for the top here.
If your old struts are worn out, riding and handling poorly, creating odd weight transfer of the vehicle or bouncy or making noise, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit, safe, and easy and fix you up right.
Reinstall the strut. Try to line up the top first and then maneuver the bottom back over the lower control arm. Reach up and start one of your 13 millimeter nuts by hand. Once you've got that started to secure the strut, reinstall the upper ball joint and its 19 millimeter nut. Now, you'll notice I'm pressing down on the strut here while I install the nut. This is because the tapered seat helps prevent the threads from spinning, making it easier to install by hand. Finish tightening up your ball joint with your 19 millimeter socket and ratchet. We'll then torque it to 35 foot-pounds and add 90 degrees.
Finish installing your new flange nuts onto the top of the strut. You may have to move it around a little to get that top one to seat where you want it. Tighten and torque the 13 millimeter nuts to 20 foot-pounds with a 13 millimeter socket and a torque wrench. Align the bottom bolt hole and install your 19 millimeter bolt. In place of the welded nut, which does not come on our new strut, we're going to use another 14 by 2 nut that we had. We'll put a 19 millimeter wrench on that; yours may vary. Then we'll tighten up the 18 millimeter bolt with a socket and ratchet. Then we'll torque it to 128 foot-pounds.
Install the upper portion of the sway bar link through the strut and start the new, this is a 22 millimeter nut. Now, this has a nylon lock on the end, so we're not going to be able to put it on by hand, so we'll grab the back side with a pair of locking jaw pliers just like we did on the bottom. Use a 22 millimeter socket and ratchet to snug it up before torquing it to 95 foot-pounds.
Reinstall your wheel and tire and get your 21 millimeter lug nuts as tight as you can by hand. Lower the partial weight of your vehicle back onto the tires. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's upper control arm in your front suspension. Now this part is an assembly, so it comes with new bushings and a new ball joint all ready to go. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you want this part for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Using a 21mm socket and a breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home with a jack and jack stands. Remove your lug nuts the rest of the way by hand. Remove your wheel and tire.
Remove the nut on the bottom of your ball joint with a 19mm socket and ratchet. Using a bungee cord or a mechanic's wire, we're going to secure our control arm. Now this should be okay, but you want to be careful when it releases to make sure that it doesn't flop over too far and tear something like your ABS sensor or your brake hose.
Now if you were to just replace this upper control arm, you could use a pickle fork or a ball joint fork and separate it by tapping that in between. However, that's prone to damaging the boots. If you're going to remove this to service the spindle, the strut, or something like that, you'll want to keep this intact. To do that, we'll use a hammer and tap on the front or side of the spindle right where the ball joint taper goes through to release it. Once you've tapped it free, you'll see why we installed that bungee cord.
Remove the 18mm nut on the outside of the strut tower here, and its twin over on the backside down here. You can't see it very well but you can reach it with an 18mm wrench, so we'll remove both of those. Remove the nut and move onto the back side. Be very careful of any wiring you find here. Our bolt was actually pretty rusty and I was having a tough time getting it off with a wrench. Fortunately, an 18mm socket and this flexible handle ratchet was able to get in there and do the trick. Remove the nut.
Now we did our job on the passenger side but you'll follow the same steps for the driver side with this small exception of relocating your coolant reservoir. Now this only takes a moment so we'll show you how to do it. You push this thumb tab over here so you can lift up and release the power steering reservoir. Just hang that off to the side. Then using a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension, we'll remove these two 10mm bolts. Now you simply lift up and you can move the reservoir out of the way to access your 18mm nut.
Now to access the rear bolt on the driver side you have this cool little access panel for your brake fluid reservoir, which may allow you a little more room to get at this nut down here.
Remove the two captured bolts securing the control arm in. All you got to do is grab the tab, wiggle them out. You got to lay them down flat to get them behind the strut like that. Do the same thing on the rear. Remove the control arm from the vehicle.
Here we have our old upper control arm that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are mirror images of each other, the reason for that being this is the passenger control arm that we removed and this is the driver side upper control arm that I ordered for the vehicle. I made a mistake here. It's very important that you check your parts before beginning a job for this exact reason here. Everybody makes mistakes. I ordered the wrong thing and started on the wrong side of the car, and had we been doing this in the driveway, we would have been in some trouble right now with a job we couldn't finish and a car we probably drive every day.
However, if you ordered the correct part, you'll see that they have the same ball joint. Our new one even comes with this nice nylon thread-locked nut on it and two brand new bushings. The shape of this control arm is a mirror image of this because, again, it's the opposite side. You can see that the shape does follow the same contours, so the passenger side would be identical to this just as the drivers on our vehicle would be identical to this part. If your bushings go bad, it can cause a little bit of a vibration or a thud, maybe some creaking noises when you go over bumps. As can a bad ball joint, these can cause alignment and tire issues as well as handling and steering issues that you'll notice when driving the vehicle. If you have a bad upper control arm, be it the arm itself being rusted or damaged, bad bushings, or a bad ball joint, this complete replacement assembly from 1AAuto.com is going to go in direct fit just like our original equipment, so long as you ordered the correct side, and fix you up right.
Install your control arm. Make sure you lay the tab down flat on the bolt so you can line it up with the hole. You may have to wiggle them around there. These can be a little tough to see how you're lining them up. You just got to get that bolt started and work them around until it goes all the way through. There you go. Then we'll follow the same steps for the bolt in the rear.
Now there was nothing wrong with our old control arm, which is why we're reinstalling it. It's also why it's a good thing that we removed it by tapping the knuckle as opposed to using it with a pickle fork because we would have damaged the boot and rendered it useless. Slide the ball joint back into the spindle and start your 19mm nut. Torque the ball joint nut to 35 foot-pounds. Now once it's torqued, we'll want to add a 90-degree turn to it. You can use a torque angle finder if you have one, or you can just eyeball it like we've done there.
Remove your bungee cord and reinstall your wheel and tire. Lower the partial weight of your vehicle back onto the tires. Reinstall both of your 18mm nuts onto the studs. The reason we're going to tighten these down now is because with the weight of the vehicle on the tires, tightening these bushings down will mean that they're tightened nice and straight at ride height, which will prevent them from getting preload or twisted with the vehicle at ride height, which would cause premature wear of our bushings, meaning we'll have to do the job again sooner.
Now I'm just going to get these down nice and tight by hand, and we should be fine. If you want to torque them, the spec is 55 foot pounds, but you're going to have to remove a lot of stuff to get a torque wrench in there. Maybe you could use a crow's foot for it. We'll just get them down nice and tight with our hand tools and everything should be just fine. We'll use whatever tool you used to loosen the nut to tighten it back up. We used an 18mm socket with a flexible handle ratchet. You may have used a short wrench or a ratcheting wrench. Whatever you used to get access in there is exactly what we'll use to tighten it.
If you removed your driver side upper control arm, you'll have to lay your reservoir back into place and reinstall the two 10mm bolts. Tighten them down with your socket, ratchet, and extension. Slide the power steering reservoir back in and push it down until it clicks. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
