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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300 3.5 liter V6. We're going to show you how to remove and replace one or all of the injectors in your vehicles fuel rail. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this car, as well as, many other makes and models, and if you ever need parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.Here are the items you'll need for this repair.
Lift up the carpet in your vehicle's trunk. Here you'll find the battery and the rear fuse panel. This relay all the way at the end closest to the back of the vehicle, on the right it is our fuel pump relay. We'll remove that and go back up to the driver's seat of our vehicle. With the fuel pump relay disconnected we'll turn the key, run the vehicle until it dies, and then we'll shut it off and crank it a few more times, just to ensure that there's no more fuel getting through the injectors. Now that we know there's no fuel pressure left in the system we can safely work on it.
To remove your intake manifold we'll loosen the clamp at the throttle body with a flat blade screwdriver. You may want to disconnect this sensor. Looks like ours has been glued on because the clip is broken. You can also simply pop it out of the boot. Disconnect these two hoses from the back of the intake located just behind the throttle body. These just pop off by hand. There's one more at the back of the manifold.
Pull back in the red safety tab, push down and disconnect the sensor from the top of the intake, as well as the two electrical connectors at the front. Disconnect the connector from the throttle body. Again, we have one of those little red safety tabs we have to push down. Then we'll push down the tab and remove the connector.
We'll remove the two 10 millimeter nuts from the throttle body, the seven 10 millimeter bolts from the center of the intake manifold here, as well as the two 10 millimeter nuts over on the passenger side of the intake manifold. We'll do this using a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet where we can and a 10 millimeter wrench where it's a little too tight. Remove the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the throttle body bracket.
We're doing this with a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove the bracket from the throttle body. There's a 15 millimeter bolt at the bottom of the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold, both front and rear. We'll loosen those up with a 15 millimeter wrench until we can slide them off of the studs. Once you've loosened the brackets go ahead and slide them off the studs. Now we'll lift up on the intake manifold, slide it forward to release it from the EGR tube at the back. Once you're off that tube, lift up being careful for that transmission dipstick and remove the manifold from the vehicle.
While the top of the intake manifold is exposed we're going to wad some paper towels in there, just to keep any dirt and debris from getting in there while we're working.
Remove the four 13 millimeter bolts. There are two on each side securing the fuel rail down onto the cylinder head. We'll do this using a 13 millimeter socket, ratchet, and extension.
To remove one or more fuel injectors, all you have to do is carefully lift up and wiggle the fuel rail out of its holders. The O-rings on the injectors help hold them in there, so you will have to fight those a little bit. Slide up on the red safety tab on each injector you need to replace. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, we'll pop up the red safety tab on the injector. We'll have to do this for each one you want to change. Once that's popped up, push down on the tab. Once the connector is out, you want to carefully pry off this little steel clip here. Kind of pop that off. These do have a little bit of spring tension to them, so keep a hand on there so they don't go flying. Once that's out, just pop the injector out of the fuel rail and even though we have revealed the fuel system pressure, you can still expect this to leak a little bit. Remove the fuel injector from the rail and the vehicle.
Make sure you lubricate the edges of the O-rings with some fuel if you can. This stuffs not really dirty. Just go ahead and lubricate those O-rings to make sure they go in nice and smooth. Insert the injector back into its hole. Snap the top back in. You can spin that any way you need to in there. Reinstall the electrical connector. Snap the red safety back into place.
It's very important to make sure that you remember this clip. You can see that there's a flat edge there, that's where we're going to want the back portion of this clip to go. These ears face up and that little slot will ride on the metal on the edge of our rail there. All you do is line it up and it snaps right back into place. Now you know your injector's in there nice and tight.
Now, we're only replacing one injector and it's okay to replace just one if that's all you're having an issue with. However, if you’re replacing them because of a fuel system contaminate, getting in there and messing up the screens or making them sticky in some way, you may want to replace them all at once. The procedure will be the same for any other injector on the rail.
Reinstall the four 13 millimeter bolts into the fuel rail. We'll just start these by hand for now to make sure that everything is all lined up. Torque the bolts to 21 foot-pounds, again working your way from the middle out. The actual torque spec here is 250 inch-pounds which works out to 20.8 foot-pounds, so we're just going to go for 21.
Reinstall all of your fuel injector connectors. Don't forget to lock down the red safety tabs as well. Make sure they're all on there good. Remove the paper towels from the intake. Clean down this meeting surface with some solvent and paper towels or clean rag. Once again, I'm using a break cleaner here but there's a variety of solvents you can use to get all of that old debris and oil off.
Install your PCV breather tube on the back of the valve cover. You've got a nice little marking on it that says PCV with an arrow so you know which end goes where, and the other end should fall just about over here, where the back of the intake will be.
Remove the old gasket from your intake manifold using a small straight pick here, just to get in there and start popping it out. You should be able to remove the rest by hand. Start your new gasket. Line up. Press that in. Our old EGR seal is damaged so remove that. Install our new one. Make sure it sits all the way back past its edge.
Reinstall your intake manifold, being sure to set the opening for the automatic transmission dipstick into its proper place on the manifold. We'll also want to be careful for the bolts. We'll have to line up our EGR tube as well. Just be mindful of all of these things while we set it into place. Once the EGR tube is set and the intake is laid down onto the lower manifold, clip your automatic transmission dipstick back into place and start all of the 10 millimeter bolts by hand, just a couple of threads, to make sure they're all lined up before we tighten them down.
Tighten up the seven 10 millimeter bolts at the center of the intake. We're not going to tighten these down all the way yet. You just want them a little bit and then we'll have to torque them. Torque these bolts to nine foot-pounds. The manufacturer specification is 150 inch-pounds. However, it's a lot easier to do with this wrench and that number rounds up to about nine foot-pounds. We want to start these in the center and work our way out in a cross pattern.
Reconnect the map sensor. Push the safety into place. Reconnect the two intake tuner valve control. Reinstall the support brackets at the front and rear on the passenger side of the intake. We'll start those 10 millimeters on, just a couple of threads to keep it in place. Using a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet to tighten up those two bolts all the way at the bottom of those support brackets. Once the bottom of the support brackets are tighten down you can use the 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to finish tightening up the top two bolts.
Reconnect the PCV hose and this fitting closest to the EGR tube. We have a small hose here, and a large hose next to that. Reconnect the electrical connector onto the throttle body. Lock the safety tab back into place. You can now set the support bracket back over the throttle body bolts. Make sure it doesn't get caught up in any of the wiring down below. We'll spin our two 10 millimeter nuts on at the top by hand, just to keep that in place. Reinstall the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the bracket by hand. Tighten up the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the bracket with your socket and ratchet. Tighten up the two 10 millimeter nuts at the top.
Install the other end of the intake boot onto the throttle body. Tighten it up with your flat blade screwdriver. Reinstall the coolant tank line bracket on the side of the intake tube. Reinstall the map sensor into the intake tube. Earlier when we removed our intake, we wanted to wait until we had the intake tube reinstalled to make sure this all lined up properly. Now that we've got it where it needs to be we'll go ahead and tighten that down.
Once your fuel system is put back together and you're ready to run the vehicle, reinstall your fuel pump relay. Now we'll turn the key to the on position until we can hear the fuel pump shut off. Turn the key off and repeat that process three times before starting our vehicle. Now our vehicle is good to go. Once you've reinstalled the relay, put the back of the cover back on first, snap the front in, set your trunk carpet down.
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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out. The next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace fuel injectors on this 2004 Chrysler Sebring and it has the 2.7 Liter V6. We're going to show you one of the injectors, but once you get as far as we get, you'll be able to replace the rest of them. Pretty much the same for any 2.7 Liter. You'll need new fuel injectors from 1AAuto.com, 10-13mm sockets with ratchet and extension, flat blade screwdriver, a torque wrench that registers inch pounds, and some Loc-Tite liquid.
With the engine running, go into your fuse block under the hood, pull out your fuel pump relay. This will stop the engine and release the pressure in the fuel system. Start out using a 10mm socket and ratchet or a wrench and remove the cover that's right next to the throttle intake. Below that you'll see a 10mm bolt and then all seven of the other 10 mm bolts that hold the upper intake manifold down. Disconnect your manifold pressure sensor, just by pushing on a tab and pulling, and then I'm going to fast-forward here as we remove those eight 10mm bolts. You basically back them out. The only one that you pull out is the last one that was underneath that cover. Next you're going to remove your air box. Loosen that clamp.
There is also usually another bolt down where his forearm is that holds the air box to the frame. You can see, remove the sensor, the hose, and then pull the air box up and out. Underneath there is a 13mm bolt that goes through a brace into the throttle body and we'll remove that. Now, pull off the gasket on top of the cowl just a little bit and you can pull your intake manifold up. The fuel rails are held down by four of the 10mm bolts that hold the intake manifold in, so we'll want to remove those four 10mm bolts. We'll just fast-forward as you remove those four bolts and you can see it helps to have a helper just hold that upper intake manifold up as you're working. Now, you'll want to pull the injectors up and out. You can see, we just grab firmly onto the rail. Both parts of it pull up and out and then grab firmly on the other side. Pull it up and out. Just to keep from getting anything down into the intake, we stuff a rag in there to block the holes. This disconnects by pressing down on a tab.
You have to pull the clip up and out. They usually pull a little more difficult, but carefully pull them up and then pull the connector off. Then there is a clip that holds the injector on. You simply pull it apart, kind of pull the two legs apart, and pull it off and then pull the injector down and off. The injector is from 1AAuto. You can see, exactly the same. They are going to install, plug in, all the same. So, we'll reinstall. We're just going to show you the one injector. The other five replace the same way. Just remember the clock position, which way the electrical connection was facing. Put the injector in the same way. You'll have to push it up into the rail while you push that clip on. Be sure to reconnect the connectors firmly and push the lock into place and then once you've replaced all your injectors, if that's what you need to do, push the rail back down into place.
Apply some Loc-Tite and put the four manifold bolts back into place. Now, you'll want to tighten those four bolts up. You want to do the middle two first, just watch the order that we do them in here, and you tighten those to 105 inch pounds. Now, pull that cowl gasket out of the way again and lower your intake manifold down into place. Push it down on once it's lined up. Just like before, we'll fast-forward here as we put the bolts down in and start them in. You'll want to use the same order to tighten them up. You start with the middle two and work your way out as you torque them. Again, we'll torque these to 105 inch pounds.
Reconnect your air pressure sensor. We're going to reinstall that 13mm bolt that holds the bracket to the throttle body and tighten that up to about 15 foot pounds. Put the cover back on top and tighten down that 10mm bolt until it's firm. Then we'll reinstall our air box and tighten up the clamp that holds the intake hose to the throttle body. Reconnect the hose and reconnect any of the sensors you might have disconnected. Don't forget to reinstall your fuel pump relay or else your car will not start.
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