1998 Chrysler Concorde Rear Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ BHA53410

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the rear hub on this 2004 Dodge Intrepid. The hub is the same for any '93 to '04 Intrepid, although I'm not sure if the earlier models had drum brakes, which would make things a little bit different.

Tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands; 10, 19 and a 36 millimeter socket; brake spoon if you have trouble removing your rotor or your drum; regular screwdriver; torque wrench; breaker bar and a pipe for leverage; pliers; hammer; and cold chisel. You'll see how I use all these tools.

Start by removing your wheel. If you have hand tools you want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen your lug nuts. Then raise and support the vehicle. Then remove it. I've got air tools and I'm going to use them. We'll just use fast forward here as I remove the wheel the rest of the way. We'll use fast forward in this video quite often just to get through the monotonous stuff.

Next you want to reset your piston. You can see the piston's right here. As the pads wear down, the piston pushes out. You can start over here. I'm just going to pry and you can see that piston go back into the caliper some. As I get it a little further, I should be able to reach right in here. I can't quite yet. Now, I can reach right in here and pry that all the way out. Now you can see that your caliper will move right back and forth. You want to remove two 10 millimeter bolts back here. Your caliper comes right up and off. The rotor may come right off, like that. You can see these are your emergency brake pads, in here. If you're having trouble getting your rotor off, what you'll want to do is back off your emergency brake pad and I'll show that.

With the rotor off, you can see right down here, this is how your emergency brake adjusts. This star wheel right here spins. When you have the rotor on, you can reach that on the backside here, now. There's a little plug right here. Use a screwdriver to pry it out. To adjust it, you'll need a brake spoon. I'm filming it from this side here. You kind of start up to adjust the shoes out. Then if you're having trouble getting it apart, you want to bring it down. That brings the shoes together and makes it easier to get the rotor off.

Now you want to take a decently sharp cold chisel. Use a nice big pair of pliers and just twist and break the bottom end of the cotter pin. Once the cotter pin breaks, you can just pull the remnants of it out. Take the little lock cap off and then the little spring washer. I believe this nut is a 36 millimeter. I've got a 1 and 7/16 socket, put on there with a breaker bar. Use a piece of pipe to get even more leverage. Once you get it, it gets off easy. That pulls off. That comes out. New hub from 1A Auto. You can see all the same. Our hub does come with the ring here on the back if you have ABS. If you don't, obviously, this will just go right on anyways.

We have a little bit of rust on this so take a paper towel, maybe even a little steel wool, and get that off of there. Just a little tiny bit of oil, just to help get it together a little easier. New hub. Just take a hammer, little block of wood. Just get it on there a little bit to get it started. Washer and our nut. Let the washer and nut, and press it right on there. It starts to tighten. Got my torque wrench: 124 foot pounds for this nut. This little spring washer goes in and the cover.

Fast forward through putting the dust cover on there. Tap it in. Then I use my big socket to kind of disperse the blows of the hammer. I'll put my rotor back on. Might have to use just a little bit of force. Spin the wheel. Tighten up back here. I'm going to fast forward through here. The goal here is to just kind of tighten them up so you have an even amount of friction from your emergency brake. Then also put that rubber plug back in once you're finished.

Like I said, this outer pad probably should be replaced but the owner of this vehicle didn't want to replace the brakes just yet. I actually replaced the hub for him. The outer pad just goes down in. Then you just pull on this bracket. Put that down in. This inner pad goes down in and pushes into that piston. Now this just goes right down on. You might have to push your slides back here. See, this one actually went way in. Push those all the way back. Put your caliper right on. Start your bolts in. Push them in and move the caliper a little bit. Keep twisting them. 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. We'll speed it up here while I snug up those 10 millimeter bolts. Once you get them kind of tight you'll want to torque them to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Now with our torque wrench and an extension, we'll tighten these to 20 foot-pounds.

We'll put our wheel up on there and we'll start our lug nuts first by hand, all five of them, and then we'll use our air wrench to tighten them preliminarily. With our vehicle on the ground, we want to torque the lug nuts to anywhere between 90 and 100 foot pounds using a star pattern.

Then very, very important, whenever you work on your brakes, first get into your car, pump your brakes a bunch of times. Then just put your car in gear. Make sure the brakes hold you. Then do a stop from like five miles an hour and ten miles an hour before you go out and road test the vehicle.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.