Replaces
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Front & Rear Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11213
$174.95
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Replaces Dodge Chrysler Eagle Rear Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA11487
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Replaces Dodge Chrysler Plymouth Front & Rear Semi-Metallic Brake Pads TRQ BFA20201
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Replaces Dodge Chrysler Plymouth Front Semi-Metallic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73601
$39.95
Replaces Dodge Chrysler Plymouth Eagle Rear Semi-Metallic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73779
$31.95
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to remove and reinstall the front brakes on this 2004 Dodge Intrepid. This car does not have ABS brakes, so things are a little bit different, but if you have ABS brakes this procedure in this video should be able to get you through it. The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands; 19mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench; 10mm socket and ratchet; a large screwdriver, or a small pry bar, or if you can't get a hold of one of those, a large C-clamp; and you'll need a torque wrench to put it back together. If you're just working with hand tools you want to loosen your lug nuts while the wheel's on the ground first, then raise up and support your vehicle. I have the benefit of air tools, so I'm going to use it. We'll fast forward through the rest of removing the wheel here, and we'll use fast forward in this video quite a bit when I'm doing monotonous tasks. Now you want to turn your wheel so you can reach your brakes easily, either by pulling it like this or using the steering wheel.
If you want to check your brakes, you can see, look in here, and you see as I kind of turn the rotor, you can see where the rotor is, and this little hole that you see here is actually the wear indicator. You can see this inside pad has plenty of life left. You can see here, this pad here has plenty of life left as well. We're not even going to change these brakes but I want to show you how to take them apart and put them back together anyways. This piston is pushed out. As your brakes wear, the piston pushes out more. You can actually reset it by sticking a large screwdriver, or a small pry bar like this, in and just prying on the brakes. That does two things for you. It pushes that piston down in there, and it also helps to get your caliper up and off easily. To remove your caliper you're going to remove two 10mm bolts, one there, and one down there. It's easily done with a small ratchet or wrench. Now your caliper comes up and off. Stop the action here for a second. You saw something drop out there. Those are the little slides and you'll see how to reinstall them later in the video. Obviously if you drop anything out you want to keep hold of it. It has the brake pads in it. The inner on, we'll just pull out like so. You probably want to have a screwdriver just to help you pry it right up and out. Hang the caliper up there like that just for now, and really easy, the rotor comes right off if you wanted to replace it or have it turned. This one, even though it's a little rusty looking, just looks like it's from sitting, it's still in good shape.
Even though we're going to put the original brakes back on, just want to show you new parts from 1A Auto. They're going to fit right on there correctly, just like the originals. Real quickly we're back to the original rotor. What I like to do is just put a lug nut on here, just to hold the disc in place while you're putting the brakes together. Before you go to put your calipers back on, you want to make sure that your piston is reset all the way into your caliper. Hopefully, if you pried it out, that's already the case, but if you didn't have something to pry it with, you can use a large C-clamp. Put your old pad back in there, and then use the C-clamp to push that piston back into your caliper. Here's my original pads, new pads from 1A Auto, the original pads still have some good life on them, so we're going to reinstall them, but you can see that the pads from 1A Auto, all the same, all the same brackets and everything. They're going to mount in there correctly. Just want to show you that so you know that when you order from 1A Auto you're going to get the right stuff. The rear pad has that clip on it. Just press it into the caliper, and then the front pad has this kind of butterfly clip on it. You just take it, and kind of pull that clip out a little bit, and then snap it down in there. You've got your pads back into your caliper, and these are the little slides. They actually just kind of hang off of here, so you put the lower one on, and you take your caliper, and make sure that ... I don't know what this is. Make sure that these boots are back on these bolts or these sleeves here.
Then what you want to do is put your pad against it, and push out on your caliper, and seat your- the shoes- or the pads- have little teeth that go right on to that slide. Then you do have to pull it out and put it down on. Then this upper slide, basically you can push your pad up like that, pull your rotor and pad back a little bit, slide underneath, and it goes in just like that. Close up on what that should look like, and then down here what it should look like. Now you take your bolts, put them in the back side, just kind of push on the caliper a little bit. Get them started, get that one started, 10mm. Torque wrench, we're going to use, and we're going to tighten these up to 25 foot-pounds. Now we can remove this lug not. We'll fast forward as I remove that lug nut, and then I'm obviously going to put the wheel and tire back up in place, and what I'm going to use is my ... I'm going to thread the lug nuts on by hand and then use my air ratchet to tighten them preliminarily. Now with the wheel on the ground, and you hawk eyes will notice that the cap was off and now that little center cap is on, that's just because I was shooting two videos at once here, but I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 90 and 100 foot-pounds. I'm going to use a star pattern, and very important while I'm torqueing these, before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the brakes a bunch of times. Then make sure that the brakes hold the car while it's in gear, then do a stop from 5 miles an hour, and then a stop from 10 miles an hour, just to make sure your brakes are working, obviously, before you drive it out on the road. We hope this helps you out.
Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how remove and replace the rear brake shoes and discs on this 2004 Dodge Intrepid, same as any '98 to '04 with the rear disc brakes. Tools needed are jack and jack stands, 10mm and 19mm sockets with ratchets and appropriate extensions, a brake spoon if you run into a little trouble removing your rotor . and I'll show you that . , a regular screwdriver and torque wrench.
You're going to start by removing your wheel. If you have hand tools you're going to want to start with the wheel on the ground. Loosen your lug nuts, and then, raise and support the vehicle and then remove it. I've got air tools and I'm going to use them. We'll use fast forward here as I remove the wheel the rest of the way. We'll use fast forward in this video quite often, just to get through the monotonous stuff.
Next you want to reset your piston. You can see the piston's right here. As the pads wear down the piston pushes out. You can start. I'm going to start over here. I'm going to pry and you can see that piston go back into the caliper some. As I get it a little further, you should be able to reach right in here. I can't quite yet. Now, I can reach right in here and pry that all the way out. Now you can see that your caliper will move right back and forth. Now, you want to remove two 10mm bolts back here. Now, your caliper comes right up and off. Your inner pad is just held in there with a clip; it pulls out. Then your outer pad has got a couple clips here, and comes off.
As far as condition, you can see our outer pad is pretty thin while our inner pad is still thicker. That indicates that maybe some of this needs to be lubed up, but it looks like it's moving pretty well. Then check the condition of our rotor. Even though this rotor looks a little rusty, that's probably just because this car's been sitting for awhile. If you run the back of your fingernail along the outside and then also on the inside, it's nice and smooth. So this rotor is in fine shape. We can just put new pads on this vehicle. 1A Auto carries the rotors and they do fit correctly.
The rotor may come right off like that. You can see this is your emergency brake pads in here. If you're having trouble getting your rotor off, what you'll want to do is back off your emergency brake pad and I'll show you that with the rotor off. With the rotor off, you can see right down here, this is how your emergency brake adjusts. This star wheel, right here, spins and when you have the rotor on, you can reach that on the backside here, now. There's a little plug right here. Use a screwdriver to pry it out. Then, to adjust it, you'll need a brake spoon. I'm filming it from this side here. You turn the star up to adjust the shoes out. Then if you're having trouble getting it apart, you want to bring it down and that brings the shoes together and makes it easier to get the rotor off.
I'll put my rotor back on. I might have to use a little bit of force. I'll spin the wheel. Tighten up back here. I'm going to fast forward through here. The goal here is to tighten them up so you have an even amount of friction from your emergency brake. Then also put that rubber plug back in, once you're finished.
Now, like I said, this outer pad should be replaced, but the owner of this vehicle didn't want to replace the brakes just yet. We actually replaced the hub for them. The outer pad goes down in and then you pull on this bracket. Put that down in. This inner pad goes down in and then pushes into that piston. Now, this goes right down on. You might have to push your slides back here. This one actually went way in. Push those all the way back. Put your caliper right on. Start your bolts in. I'm just going to push them in and then move the caliper a little bit. Keep twisting them. With a 10mm socket and ratchet, we'll speed it up here while I snug up those 10mm bolts. Once you get them kind of tight you'll want to torque them to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Now with our torque wrench and an extension we'll click these to 20 foot-pounds.
Now we'll put our wheel up on there, and we'll start our lug nuts first by hand, all five of them. Then we'll use our air wrench to tighten them preliminarily. Now with our vehicle on the ground we want to torque the lugs nuts to anywhere between 90 and 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Then very, very, important: whenever you work on your brakes first get into your car, pump your brakes a bunch of times. Then put your car in gear, and make sure the brakes hold you. Then do a stop from like five miles an hour and ten miles an hour before you go out and road test the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
