2010 Chrysler 300 Rear Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set TRQ BHA53624

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300, 3.5-liter rear wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's front wheel hub and bearing assembly.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair: full metric socket set, ratchet, socket extensions, 35mm socket, breaker bar, torque wrench, small chisel, hammer, rubber mallet, groove jaw pliers, bungee cord, wire brush, flat blade screwdriver, brake grease, gloves, paper towels, jack and jack stands

Using a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, loosen all of your lug nuts about one turn. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home with the jack and jack stands. Remove your lug nuts the rest of the way by hand. Remove your wheel and tire.

Remove the two 13 millimeter bolts securing the caliper to the bracket. We'll do this using a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove the caliper and, using a bungee cord, zip tie, or mechanics wire, hang it up out of the way. Remove the pads. Remove the two 18-millimeter caliper bracket bolts with an 18-millimeter socket and ratchet. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Remove the caliper carrier and remove the rotor.

Using a small chisel and a small hammer, we'll tap in between the hub and discover once you get it moving just rotate it and work your way around until this dust cover. Once you've got it moving, just rotate it and work your way around until the dust cover comes off. Once you've got it moving, angle the chisel so it knocks it out. Using a 35 millimeter socket and a breaker bar and, depending on the length of your breaker bar, you may also want to use the cheater pipe. Remove the center nut. Once you've got it cracked loose, you can remove the cheater pipe and finish removing the nut from the spindle. Remove the wheel hub and bearing from the vehicle.

Here we have our old hub that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same wheel studs, the same open-style bearing in the middle there. We have the same backing on them and the same hub face. If a wheel bearing starts going bad, it will create a loud grinding or groaning sound while driving that will get louder and softer as you turn left and right, depending on which side of the vehicle the bad bearing is on. If these bearings get too bad and fail, it can cause a wheel to rotate improperly or stop completely. When you hear that noise, it's time to change it. This new wheel bearing from 1A Auto is a good quality replacement part that's going to go in direct fit just like your original and fix you up right.

Install your new wheel bearing and hub assembly onto the spindle. Be sure to get it on there nice and even and straight, and that it bottoms out completely. Install your 35 millimeter nut. We'll use the socket and breaker bar for this since it has a nylon lock on the end of the threads. It's not going to be something we can install by hand. We'll then torque the nut to a 184-foot pounds. Install the dust shield. It helps to use a rubber hammer or dead blow when installing these. If you don't have access to one, use a screwdriver and gently tap around the edges with a regular hammer.

Using a small flat blade screwdriver, tap off the brake slides. Now, this rust buildup on the end isn't a big deal. However, if it were down on the actual moving portion of the pin, we would want to replace them. You'll also need to make sure that the boot seats back on the pin correctly. We'll repeat this process on the other side of our bracket. Now that our caliper bracket is cleaned and greased, it's ready to go back on the vehicle.

Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the hub surface. Be sure to get the flat surface as well as the bore. This will prevent our rotor from getting frozen onto the hub. Install the rotor onto the hub backwards, and spray it down with some brake cleaner. This removes the coating they used to prevent the surfaces from rusting while these parts are in storage. We'll flip it around and spray that down too.

Now, this next step isn't entirely necessary, but if you have access to an old axle nut or some other type of large spacer. You can put it over the wheel stud and tighten the lug nut down to it to keep the rotor straight while we install the rest of our components. Reinstall the caliper bracket and the two 18mm bolts which we'll tighten down with our 18mm socket and ratchet, and then tighten to 70 foot-pounds.

Install your new brake pads in the caliper carrier, and grease the backsides of the shims with a thin coat of brake grease. Remove the caliper from whatever you used to secure it. Using a pair of groove jaw pliers, slowly compress the caliper piston. Reinstall the caliper and the two 13mm bolts securing the caliper to the guide pins. Using your 13mm socket and a torque wrench, torque the caliper bolts to 44 foot-pounds.

Remove the wheel lug as well as the axle nut, if you used this method, and reinstall your wheel and tire. Get all five of your 21 mm lug nuts on as tight as you can by hand. Lower the partial weight of your vehicle back onto the tires. Torque your lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

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