Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we show you how to replace the inner tie rod on this 2004 Chrysler Sebring. It's the same process on the Sebrings from 1996-2005. Your vehicle will need an alignment after this repair is done. The only tools you'll need for this are an adjustable wrench, pliers, a hammer, a tape measure, monkey wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing the wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, as well as the wheel and tire.
Turn your wheel so that you have better access to the tie rods, and then just remove this cotter pin. Use a pair of pliers to just straighten it out, and then pull it right out of there. Using your adjustable wrench, just remove this castle nut. It's important to measure from your inner tie rod to the outer tie rod so that you can remember exactly how far up the outer tie rod's supposed to be. Loosen the nut in between the inner and outer tie rod. With a hammer, just hammer the knuckle right here to loosen up your outer tie rod, and now you should just be able to pull it up and out, and twist that off of the inner tie rod.
Now, you can twist off this nut as well. With a pair of pliers, just push in this clamp and pull it down. You can see this boot's held on with a wire tie, and we're just clipping a wire tie. In most cases this won't be what you have so we're going to show a different repair here just to show you what you will have. There's a clip underneath and you just stick a screwdriver in there, hit it with a hammer, and that clamp will just pull right off. Using a pipe wrench, remove the inner tie rod. You can see, you just loosen it up and then it twists right out.
Now, take your new inner tie rod and twist it into place. Now, take a wire tie and put it on the end of the boot, and just feed that boot back into place and tighten up that wire tie. It's going to act as that clamp you removed earlier. Using your pliers you can slide that other clamp back onto the front of the boot, and twist that nut on.
Now, take your outer tie rod and twist it back onto the inner tie rod. Now, using the tape measure, make sure it's back to exactly where it was. You can see ours is. Then you want to just tighten that nut back into place and push the outer tie rod back into the knuckle. Now, you can replace your castle nut. When you tighten up the castle nut, make sure that you have this hole lined up so you can put that cotter pin back into place. Then use a pair of pliers, just pry out the ends of it. Using your adjustable wrench tighten that nut up just the rest of the way, and using your grease gun, just fill up that grease filler on your outer tie rod.
I'm going to fast forward here as Don replaces the wheel. You want to replace the lug nuts, tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, tighten them the rest of the way, and then torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod on this 2004 Chrysler Sebring. It's the same process on these Sebrings from 1995 to 2006. It's cheaper if you do this repair yourself, however, you should still go and get a professional alignment done after this repair. The only tools you're going to need include an adjustable wrench, pliers, a hammer, a tape measure, and jack and jack stands.
You want to start off by removing the wheel. You can see we're using power tools, but if you don't have air-powered tools like this, you just want to loosen the lug nuts up while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise it up, and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Then pull the wheel off.
Turn your wheel so that you have better access to the tie rods, and then remove this cotter pin. Use a pair of pliers to straighten it out, and then pull it right out of there. Using your adjustable wrench, remove this capsule nut.
It's important to measure from your inner tie rod to the outer tie rod so that you can remember exactly how far up the outer tie rod is supposed to be. Loosen the nut in between the inner and outer tie rod. With a hammer, hammer the knuckle right here to loosen up your outer tie rod, and now you should be able to pull it up and out. Twist that off of the inner tie rod.
Twist the grease filler into your new outer tie rod and twist your new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod. Using the tape measure, make sure it's back to exactly where it was. You can see ours is. Then you want to tighten that nut back into place. Now you can replace your capsule nut. When you tighten up the capsule nut, make sure that you have this hole lined up so you can put that cotter pin back into place. Use a pair of pliers and just pry out the ends of it. Using your adjustable wrench, tighten that nut up the rest of the way. Using your grease gun, fill up that grease filler on your outer tie rod.
Fast-forward as Don replaces the wheel. You want to replace the lug nuts, tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Then torque them to one hundred foot-pounds.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear struts on this 2004 Chrysler Sebring. It's the same process on the Sebrings from 2001 to 2006, as well as the Dodge Stratuses from the same time. The items you'll need for this are: mew rear struts from 1AAuto.com, and we do recommend that you change both of them, 15mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 18mm wrench, a hammer, a pry bar, a pick tool or screwdriver, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.
To start off, just go into the trunk here and pull back the insulation, and you'll see, here's the top of your rear strut with two 15mm nuts. We'll just fast forward as Don removes these.
You want to just jack your vehicle up, and then go in behind the wheel here. You'll see this is your rear strut right here. It's secured with this bolt right here. Ours is kind of rusted, so we spray it down with some penetrating oil. Then, using an 18mm wrench, you want to just remove the nut on the other side. Using a hammer and a pick tool or screwdriver, just hit the bolt out. Then, you're going to need to hit the bolt up and over that adjusting link. Up here on the rear strut, you'll see these two clips. You want to just pry out the center on them, and then you can pry out the whole thing. Then the lower part will just pry off also. We'll fast forward as Don does this to the other one.
Now you need to remove the wheel. If you have air-powered tools, you can do this while it's up in the air. Otherwise, lower it just enough so that the wheel stops spinning. Loosen up all the lug nuts, raise it up again, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Then you can just pull the wheel off.
Now, pry that rear strut off, pull it down, and then out over the wheel.
The old strut is on the right. The new strut from 1A Auto is on the left. You can see it's identical. They'll mount exactly the same. The original strut on our vehicle is in fine shape, so we are just going to reinstall it. We're doing this video just to show you how to do it. Feed it right in over the brake drum, and then push it up into place. It helps to have an extra person here just to pull down on the wheel so you can push the strut back into place. Now use the pry bar to pull it down a little bit so you can fit the bolt in, and just hammer that bolt in the rest of the way. We'll fast forward as Don replaces that 18mm nut. You should tighten these to about 75 to 80 foot-pounds. Now reinstall the clips. Just push the center into them, not all the way down, but just into them, and then push the clip into place, and now push the center in the rest of the way. If it's difficult, just use your hammer.
We'll fast forward, here, as Don replaces the wheel and replaces the lug nuts. You want to tighten them preliminarily for right now, and then lower the vehicle.
We're going to continue to fast forward here as Don replaces those two 15-mm nuts in the trunk and tightens them up, and tightens it to 40 to 45 foot pounds. Just replace that cap and put your insulation back into place. Now torque your lug nuts to 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern, and then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
