Replaces
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Hi everyone. Sue here at 1A Auto, and today we're gonna talk bearings. The difference between a roller bearing and a ball bearing type.
While both a roller bearing and tapered bearings work in the same manner. Tapered bearings use tapered rollers shaped like flat topped cones and two races angled from the outside to the inside of the bearing. The rollers have a large contact area which is what makes them better than roller bearings at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering in trucks and large cars.
For applications that require it, the TRQ brand offers tapered roller bearing style wheel bearings that match OEM specifications where other brands do not.
Roller ball bearings work well for small cars but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing will result in increasing wear and faster failure.
So now that you know all parts aren't created equal, you can purchase your TRQ bearing at 1aauto.com.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your best source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we'll be showing you how to replace the right hub on this '98 Durango, same as any '98-'03 Durango and '97-'04 Dakota. This vehicle has rear wheel ABS only, so the only difference if your truck has four-wheel ABS is you will have a harness to deal with, unplug before you remove the hub. You'll need jack, jack stands, various millimeter or metric sockets, including a 32-millimeter socket, which is not in most people's toolbox, T47 driver and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, hammer, pliers, torque wrench and wire brush.
I'm going to fast forward through removing the tire and also fast forward through removing the brakes. If you want to see this in regular time, just check out our other videos for the Durango and Dakota front brakes. Once we get through this, it's a T47 driver, and you remove two bolts then use a screwdriver or your wrench to try and pry the caliper up and off, pull the caliper off, secure it up top, because you don't want to ruin your hose. You just secure it up top with a wire tie and remove your rotor.
I'm going to remove this cotter pin here. Usually the best way to do it is to break it as high up as you can, use the bigger pair of pliers, squeeze it together as much as I can then apologies for the bad camera work out. I just turn around and pull the cotter pin up and out. The cap and the spring washer come out. In this part, we're going to remove the hub nut. It's a 32-millimeter nut, and if you don't have air tools, what you can do is you can put your tire back on, put the lug nuts back on, lower your vehicle onto the ground and use a breaker bar and 32-millimeter ratchet to do it... I'm sorry, 32-millimeter socket. I have the benefit of an impact wrench, so I will use that to remove the nut. The bolt comes off, and there is also a washer in there as well.
If you're lucky, what you do is take a hammer- you don't want to beat this thing up because you'll end up ruining your axle. If you give it one good rap, and you just watch the axle in relation to the hub and you see that move, then you're okay. You don't need to worry about using a axle pull or anything like that.
Remove those six bolts right back in there, and you can see them as they come around and they're not too difficult. You can reach them pretty easily from the underneath, and what you can do, I got my bar on here, my wrench with my 14-millimeter socket, and so I'll hold this while I pull on this one right here and it will come off. Do the next one and it will come off. That's one way to do it. Obviously a much easier way to do it is with an impact wrench right here
We'll just speed through removing the rest of those bolts. Once you have the axle unbolted, you can reach right in here, pull it back and down and then as you get down here, just spin it, pull it back and spin it down.
Then use your hammer, push it right out. You have to lift it up some then there's your axle out.
With the axle out of the way and behind, you've got three 22-millimeter bolts that hold the hub on. One there, one on the front and one at the top. You're really going to want a breaker bar or a pipe to get some extra leverage because these thing are usually in there a lot of torque. I am pulling hard here, but I'm also pulling in a controlled manner and I'm going slowly. It's probably not as hard as it looks. With a breaker bar, it takes some force, but it's very doable. I'll speed up here again, I'm going to do it with a few turns with the breaker bar, and then I'll switch over to a ratchet. Notice I do I go and turn the steering wheel and just move the wheel back and forth, just to make it easier to get that other bolt. There. Now I'm just using a ratchet. Remove that bolt the whole way then turn the wheels back and remove the other two bolts all the way. At this point, if your truck does have frontal ABS, you want to make sure you unplug the lead, and now you get a nice big hammer and go from right here you can see that the dirt cracks here a little bit, so it's moving.
Before we go to install the new one wire brush after that, I'm just going to put some anti-seize on here, you can just use a little motor oil or whatever. This is just a little bit of - that's a lubricant to make sure it goes together pretty easy, then also, if ever in the future it decides to come apart, it would ensure that it comes apart pretty easy, too.
You can see here, the new hub from 1A Auto, exactly the same as the old hub; everything is going to mount all the same. We'll put the new hub in, and obviously if you have ABS brakes on the front, you'll want to feed the harness through, and then we'll start the bolts and tighten them up. These bolts, you want to tighten up between 85 and 90 foot-pounds.
Here now torque them to 90 foot-pounds put your axle back in. You want to have your wheel turned slightly to the inside the car, just allows you a good angle back here. Put your axle up in, guide the axle into the hub. Basically it allows you, you can see my right here, and it's angled a little down. Having the wheel turned allows you to push your axle down so you can get it in. Then pull on the CV. Get it up and in, aligned and insert your six bolts. Now I'm going to go ahead and take these bolts with my impact wrench and using my torque wrench and my bar to hold it, I'm going to torque each one to 60 foot-pound.
With my washer and hub nut on, at this point, I'm not going to tighten this all the way up, I'm just going to pull in and get it on there. I won't torque this until I have the vehicle down on the ground. With the tire back on the ground, I've got my torque wrench set to 175. Now I'm going to speed through this, we're going to put that cap back on, put a new cotter pin in there and bend it, and raise up the car, take those lug nuts off, put the center cap back on, put the lug nuts back on. Obviously we're going to torque those to about 100 foot pounds, and one other note, if you did have to take your brakes apart, make sure you pump your brakes a few times, make sure they're working before you road test the vehicle. Let the car back down and now you can see here, I'm going to torque the lug nuts again to about 100 foot-pounds.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1Aauto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
