Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly; that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this 2004 Dodge Ram. This is a four-wheel drive truck, same as most 02 to 08 vehicles this generation. Tools you'll need: Various both standard and metric sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, and a pipe for some leverage, (the bolts for the hub are quite tight usually), sledge hammer if you have some problem with your rotors, a large screwdriver, small pry bar, wire brush, large C-clamp, penetrating oil, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.
First you want to remove your wheel. If you're just using hand tools, start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, then raise it, secure it with jack stands and then remove the wheel. I've got air tools; I'm going to use them. These are either 7/8 or 22 millimeter; both will work. The next step, you may want to loosen your brake fluid cap a little. Okay, in the interest of keeping this video a little bit on the short side, I'm going to just kind of go through taking the brakes apart in 3x speed. You can probably gain enough here if you don't quite know how to get them apart or if you want to see this part of the video in real time, just check out our other videos for the Dodge Ram front brakes. Again, like I said, you can probably get enough to understand how to get the brakes apart just from this. Enjoy it even though it's a little quicker and then we'll get to the hub.
Now you're going to want to remove the axle. You want to remove the hub nut, which is a 35-millimeter bolt. If you're using hand tools, you will need to do this before you take the tire off. Lift the car up, take the center cap off, take the lug nuts off, take the center cap off, put the lug nuts back on, put the car back down, and then while it's on the ground use your hand tools to loosen up the nut. Then you can lift the car up. I'm just going to use my impact wrench and it helps me to zip the nut right off.
Now you want to separate the axle from the hub. You just want to use a hammer and give it one good hit. That'll tell you if the axle is free from the hub. You just hit it once and watch it really close and the axle should go right in. You won't need an axle pole or anything if that happens. You see I hit it and the axle goes in so I'm all set. Now what you want to do is get a pry bar and go way up like that. Pull your axle right off like that and your axle's out. Okay, now with the axle out there's three 18-millimeter bolts. You see one right down there, one up here, and there's one over here you can barely see. Before you actually take those bolts out, you want to disconnect your ABS sensor if you're vehicle has ABS. The connection is up there. Pull the clip out of the fender. There's a little tab that you have to press with your thumb and then disconnect it and pull it free from all the clamps that hold it to the brake hose and stuff.
We are going to use our 18-millimeter socket. Okay. Actually I'm going to loosen this. Again, be controlled with your pole. Use my pipe here. More leverage. Okay, these bolts are very tight. They also have a Loctite on them so just the combination of your 18-millimeter socket, your ratchet handle or a breaker bar, and a piece of pipe for some leverage and can get them loose. Once you have the bolts out you can actually cut them out pretty easy. Okay, wire brush. Clean everything up here a little bit. You want to feed your harness through and then the harness up, over like that, put your hub in. Prepare your bolts. Feed it through the top hole and do your best. Get the backing complete on there and then start into the hub.
Just make sure our harness is out of the way. I'm just going to use my impact wrench and just tighten this top one up a little bit. I'm not going to tighten it up. I'm just going to get it in there. Make sure it's nice and secure. Okay, I'm going to start my other two bolts and this should still be loose and moving around. I'm just going to fast forward here as I start the other two bolts and then I'll hook up my harness. Make sure you put it back into all the little grommets and clips that hold it in place so it doesn't chafe against anything. Then reconnect it and then I'll preliminarily tighten up all the bolts. The next thing you see me doing is torquing the bolts.
Now I'm going to use the torque wrench to get the top one. For the top one if you use a nice, long extension like that, loop it through from the back. Torque them to 100 foot pounds. Okay, we'll just fast forward again as I torque up the other two bolts. Now we're just going to take our axle. Put it right up in here, feed it into the hub. Turn it a little bit so you know where to push it with the hub. Push it right in. Now I'm going to take my hub nut and using my impact wrench just to get it on there, not really to tighten all the way up yet. Okay, now I'm going to grab hold of my CV joint on the inside. You go up on the top, pull your joint in as much as you can. Going on to the axle and then push it all the way on. Make sure it fits on there.
Okay, just in the interest of making this video a little bit on the shorter side, I'm just going to fast forward through putting your brakes back together. If you'd like to see this video or this part of the video in regular speed just check out our other videos for the Dodge Ram front brakes and you can see this whole part of the repair being done in regular speed. Now with everything back together, put your wheel back on. Don't put the center cap back on. Thread your lug nuts on there, and then just preliminarily tighten them up and then lower your vehicle down. Your hub nut, 185 foot pounds; my poor torque wrench only goes up to 150, so there's 150 and 25. Okay now raise the vehicle back up, take the lug nuts off, put the center cap back on, and preliminarily tighten up the lug nuts. Let the vehicle back down and torque the lug nuts to a 120 foot pounds using a star pattern. Very important, you've had your brakes apart so make sure before you drive the vehicle, pump your brakes a bunch of times, make sure the brakes are working correctly.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Now I'm gonna remove the wheel. Take a 22-millimeter socket and remove the lug nuts. And pull the wheel off. Now we're gonna take the brake caliper off. Use a 12-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bolts off. And grab the caliper. You might have to wiggle it back and forth a little bit. And slide it out. Use a brake caliper hanger and attach it to the coil spring or somewhere that the brake hose is not being pulled on too hard. And just take a straight blade screwdriver, pry out the brake pads. Now take a 21-millimeter socket and take the caliper bracket bolts off.
Pull those bolts off and slide the bracket back. Now take a hammer and just tap on the rotor in those locations. Make sure you don't hit the studs. Now it's loose from the hub itself, but the brake the parking brake shoes are holding me up a little bit so I got to loosen those up. On the backing shield, there's this little window right here. There's a rubber grommet. Just take your screwdriver, take that off. On the passenger side, this is on the bottom. On the driver's side, it's on the top. And then, there's a little wheel right there that if...it's like a star wheel, that's the adjuster. You can take a screwdriver and just find something that fits or a brake spoon, it's what they call this. And to tighten this up, you're gonna go and turn the wheel up. Just like this. And grab the rotor and slide it right off.
Now we need to remove these clips that hold the shoes on. I'm just gonna use a right-angle pick. Just get underneath the clip. Then I'm just gonna use a trim tool and just push down on this side of it as I slide the clip up. I'm just gonna take it off the pin. Just like that. And just try to pry this out a little like that. And do the same on the other side. Now I wanna get this adjuster out under here. It's kinda hard to get that spring off with the adjuster on there. So, I'm just gonna take two pry bars and just pry this out and just hopefully the adjuster will fall. There we go. Then with the shoes closer together, then the spring just comes out pretty easily. Grab the spring. Ther's the adjuster just fell out. And slide the spring out. Now there's two springs, there's a spring on the front side and a spring on the backside. And what you're gonna do is just try to get this off of out of this bracket right here. So, I'll use a pry bar and a screwdriver. Just try to pry this out a little bit. Same on this side.
There we go. Pop that spring out. And the other spring, let's pop that one out as well. There's that one. And here's that front shoe and the springs. So these springs, one spring goes on the backside, one spring goes on the front side like that. I'm gonna take these pins out. I am gonna re-use them because I don't have a hardware kit, but I just need to take them out. It's just gonna make putting the new shoes on easier. Put those aside and just take a wire brush and just any of the surface where the shoes touch the backing plate. Just clean those up a little bit. You could put a little grease on there if you want to. Now take the new shoes. Now, there is a top and a bottom and it's gonna be the opposite on the driver's side. There you go like that. So, for this side, this arch area it's gonna go on the top for both shoes.
Now, we want this spring we're gonna put both springs on before and we want one of the springs to end up behind here. So it has to go in behind there. So, it's a little tricky to get it in there. So hook that on right there and then there. The other spring you put it on the outside, right there and right there. So, these are together like this. Now what I'm gonna do is take the shoes and just go like this and then just rotate. This makes it easy, easier. And then take the shoe, and it has to go in between here and here. Just make sure that other spring doesn't pop out. And it's good like that. And then I'll take a screwdriver and just pry this one out, just like that. And there we go. Those are in position. And check your adjuster. If the adjuster doesn't move too easily, you wanna take it apart and just clean those threads up and then put some lubricant on those. This one moves pretty good. Now, I'll just put a little grease on here, just on the threads. To make putting the pins in a little easier, I'm just gonna put this adjuster in. Just pry this apart. You could use a pry bar if you want. That's lined up right there. Now take the pins, sometimes they call these nails. And then going from the back of the shield. And just get it lined up through the shoe. Now I'll just take this retainer and slide it up through here. And I'm sure they have special installers to put these on, but use what you can. I'm just gonna use this trim tool. There we go. It might take a little bit of effort. It's not too bad. Do the same on this other one.
Now I need to put this spring in, but it's gonna be very difficult to get that spring in with the adjuster in there. So, what I'm gonna do is just spread these shoes apart, take the adjuster out temporarily. And I can take the spring, push the shoes together. I'm just gonna use a screwdriver or a tool, get the spring lined up, so that's in there good. Now we can put the adjuster back in position. Just get it past the spring. I have to turn the hub a little bit. Now I'm gonna use two pry bars. Just pry this out a little bit and push the adjuster in place.
Just like that. Now you wanna clean the hub surface. Just use a wire brush or a die grinder. Just clean up some of the rust. And now take your rotor and slide that on. And now we wanna adjust this up a little bit. Just use a little, either a screwdriver or a parking brake tool, and just tighten it up. Just want it tight enough so that it just drags a little bit. That might be a little too tight. I'm just gonna loosen it. And you can always adjust it later. If it's not tight enough, tighten it up. And then take this little cover. Just use a screwdriver or a pick and just reinsert that. That's good. Now take the bracket and slide it in position over the rotor. Put the bolts back in. You can put some thread locker adhesive on these if you want to and then torque these to 132 foot-pounds. You can put a little grease just where the pads are gonna slide on the slides. That's good. And then take the pads themselves. Line those up. Do the same on the inside. Just like that. Now take the brake caliper off the hanger. Now we wanna compress the caliper and slide that compressor tool in there and slowly compress the caliper.
All right. Now that pistons all the way in, now on the passenger side, you're gonna start with the caliper on the top and fold it down and on the driver's side, it's gonna be the opposite. And put the bolts back in and get those started. And then torque these bolts to 24 foot-pounds. And then put the tire back up and the lug nuts. Now we're gonna torque the wheel, tighten this down to 130 foot-pounds in a star pattern so you tighten the wheel down evenly. Now you wanna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper piston and the brake pads. And once it feels good, that's good. And you wanna double-check the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. Make sure it's up to the max line. Adjust accordingly.
Tools used
Now I'm gonna remove the wheel. Take a 22-millimeter socket, remove the lug nuts. And pull the wheel off. Now, we're gonna take the brake caliper off. Use a 12-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bolts off. And grab the caliper. I'm gonna have to wiggle it back and forth a little bit and slide it out. Use a brake caliper hanger and attach it to the coil spring or somewhere that the brake hose is not being pulled on too hard. And just take a straight blade screwdriver, pry out the brake pads. I'm gonna take a 21-millimeter socket and take the caliper bracket bolts off. Pull those bolts off and slide the bracket back.
Now take a hammer and just tap on the rotor in those locations. Make sure you don't hit the studs. Now it's loose from the hub itself, but the brake, the parking brake shoes are holding me up a little bit, so I've got to loosen those up. On the backing shield, there's this little window right here, there's a rubber grommet. Just take your screwdriver, take that off. On the passenger side, this is on the bottom. On the driver's side, it's on the top. And then there's a little wheel right there that it's like a star wheel, it's the adjuster. You can take a screwdriver and just find something that fits or a brake spoon is what they call this. And then to tighten this up, you're gonna go and turn the wheel up just like this. You can grab the rotor and slide it right off.
Now you wanna clean the hub surface. Just use a wire brush or a die grinder. Just clean up some of the rust. I'm gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards first. Take some brake parts cleaner and just clean the rotor. Use a rag, wipe it off. Put the rotor around. Same on this side. And now we wanna adjust this up a little bit. Just us a little...either a screwdriver or a parking brake tool and just tighten it up. I just want it tight enough so that it just drags a little bit. That might be a little too tight. I'm just gonna loosen it. And you can always adjust it later. If it's not tight enough, tighten it up. And take this little cover. Just use a screwdriver or a pick and just insert that. That's good.
Now I'm gonna take the clips off. Take a wire brush, just clean off this area. Do the same on the other side. And take some brake caliper grease and just put it on this point and same on the other side. I'm gonna take these pad clips or pad slides, press that there. Same on this side. Now take the bracket and slide it in position over the rotor. Put the bolts back in. You can put some thread locker adhesive on these if you want to. And then torque these bolts to 132 foot-pounds.
You can put a little grease just where the pads are gonna slide on the slides. That's good. And take the pads themselves, line those up. Do the same on the inside, just like that. Now, take the brake caliper off the hanger. Before we compress the caliper, we have these slide caliper slides. You just take a screwdriver and push these through. Slide those out, clean these off with a little bit of brake parts cleaner, and wipe them down. Take a little brake caliper grease and grease them up. And if they were extremely dirty, you could take these and clean these out in here, but these weren't too bad so I'm just gonna take a little grease, slide those in there, and slide it back in. That's good. And then you can do the same for the other side. Now we wanna compress the caliper, slide the compressor tool in there, and slowly compress the caliper.
All right. Now that the piston's all the way in, now on the passenger side, you're gonna start with the caliper on the top and fold it down. And on the driver's side, it's gonna be opposite, and put the bolts back in and get those started. And then torque these bolts to 24 foot-pounds. And put the tire back up, and the lug nuts. Now, we're gonna torque the wheel, tighten this down to 130 foot-pounds in a star pattern so you tighten the wheel down evenly. Now you wanna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper, piston, and the brake pads. And once it feels good, that's good. And you wanna double-check the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. Make sure it's up to the max line. Adjust accordingly.
