Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
What's up, guys? I'm Andy from 1AAuto. Today I'm going to show you how to install these front brakes on this 2016 Ram 1500. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.
We're going to loosen up these lug nuts. We're going to use a 7/8 socket and a breaker bar. You can also use a 22 mm socket. Loosen these up. I'm going to raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two-post lift. If you're doing this at your house, you can use a jack and jack stands.
We're going to take these lug nuts off. Just use the socket. Take the lug nuts off. Grab the tire. Pull it down. We're going to loosen up these two 13 mm bolts. I'm going to use a 13 mm socket and ratchet, and right now the caliper slide is spinning, so I'm going to use a pair of pliers on here to hold the slide while I loosen up the bolt. Once it's pretty loose, you can do it by hand. That goes out.
You're going to take a straight blade screwdriver. Get in between the rotor and the caliper. Just pry back a little bit. Slide the caliper out. That's just going to compress the piston a little bit, and then you're going to take this brake caliper hanger. We actually sell these at 1AAuto.com. Slide it into this hole here. Now we can slide it on the coil spring. It's going to hold it. It's going to take the pressure off the brake hose. Slide it like that.
We're going to take a straight blade screwdriver. Take these pads off. Just get in between the pad and the rotor. Pry it out. These are on there pretty good. Frozen a little bit. Slide those out. Slide this one out as well, just like that. Do the same for the outside. I'm going to take a 21 mm socket and a breaker bar. You'll loosen up these two bolts for the caliper bracket. Loosen up the top one. Once those are loose, I can switch to a ratchet. Take that bolt out. Once this is loose enough, do it by hand. Support the bracket with your other hand. Pull the bolts out, and slide the bracket right off the rotor.
We're going to take this little retainer off. They only use this to hold the rotor on at the factory. It's not required, so we're just going to take it off. We'll cut it off and throw it out. We'll use some side cutters. Just grab it right here. Pry it out a little bit. Once you break it, it's pretty easy to get it off. Slide it out.
Now to get the rotor off, we're going to use a hammer. We're just going to hit in these locations, being careful not to hit the studs. There we go. Grab the rotor. Slide it off.
Here's our old brakes. Here's our new brakes from 1AAuto.com. If you look at the pads, the pads are the same shape. They have the same ears, the same pad design on the back side. Both the same. If you look at the rotors, rotors are the same height. You have the same bolt pattern, the same fins in the middle to cool. Back side, the same. Get yours at 1AAuto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
We're going to clean up this caliper bracket. Just take a wire brush. Just clean up in this area right here, just like that. Get some of the rust out, corrosion. Looks good like that, and we're going to do the same for the other side. Now we're going to take the slide pin out. Just grab the rubber grommet right there. Slide it out. Take a little bit of brake parts cleaner. Spray it on here. Use a rag to wipe it off. Clean that up good. Take a little brake parts cleaner. Spray it down the hole where the pin goes. Use a rag to clean some of that up. Drain it out. Take some brake caliper grease. Put it on the slide pin, just like that. Reinstall the pin. Make sure you get the rubber grommet to slide into position, just like that, and we'll do the same for the other side.
We're going to clean up these pad clips. I'll just take a wire brush. Just clean these up a little bit because we're going to reuse them. Once that's cleaned up, just slide it off. Just wiggle it back and forth, and take the new pad. Just get it into position, and just slide it on just like that. Now we'll do the same for the other ones.
I'm going to take a wire brush. We're going to clean this hub up before we reinstall the rotor to clean some of the rust off, just like this. All right. That looks pretty good. I'll take a new rotor. I'm going to put it on backwards first. Take some brake parts cleaner and clean off the back side of the rotor. There is a protective coating on it, so we want to wipe that off. Now we'll flip it around and do the same on this side. Spray some brake cleaner. Wipe it off.
To make this easier to install, I'm just going to take a lug nut. Just put this on temporarily, so it's easier to install the brakes. I'm going to take the brake caliper bracket, line this back up over the rotor, and then take the caliper bolts. There is some thread locker on these bolts. You can apply new thread locker, if you'd like. Get those started. I'll take a 21 mm socket and ratchet, and I'll snug these bolts up.
We're going to take a 21 mm socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque these bolts to 130 foot pounds. Now we're going to take some brake caliper grease. We'll just put it on the brake pad clips right here. We'll do it on the other side, as well. Then also on the back of the pads. We'll just put a little bit of it on the back of the pads, just like that. We'll install this one on the outside. Be careful not to get grease on the pad material itself. Now we'll do the same with the other one.
Now we're going to take the brake caliper, take the hanger off. Slide that out of there. Flip the caliper over. Take one of the old brake pads. Slide this into position. Now we have this brake caliper compressor tool. We sell this at 1AAuto.com. This is only a single piston tool. We have two pistons here. It will still work. We're just going to have to go back and forth with it. Just get this started. I'm just going to compress this slowly. As we're compressing this piston, the piston's moving into the caliper. It's pushing brake fluid through the hose, through the lines, back up into the master cylinder, and back into the reservoir. It's a good idea to check your reservoir after you're done your brake job and adjust the fluid level accordingly. Just go back and forth. Loosen it up. Go back to this side.
Once those pistons are completely compressed, make sure the rubber seals or the dust seals are not in the way. They're in there properly. You can make sure the hose is not twisted. Line this back up on the caliper bracket. Take the bolts that hold this on. Get this started. Get the lower one started.
Next I'm going to use a 13 mm socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to tighten down these bolts to 31 foot pounds. I am going to use a pair of pliers to keep the caliper bolt from spinning, caliper slide from spinning. Do the same for the top one. That's good.
I'm going to take this lug nut off. Install the tire and wheel. Slide that in position and take the lug nuts. Install them. Just take the socket. Just make sure these are all snug. I'm going to lower the vehicle and torque them.
Now I'm going to take a 7/8 socket or a 22 mm socket and a torque wrench. Going to torque these to 130 foot pounds. I'm going to tighten these down in a star pattern. That'll make sure the wheel gets tightened down evenly. I'll just go around again. Make sure they're all tight. Those are good.
After we do a brake job, we want to make sure that we get back in the truck and we pump the brake pedal, because there's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads, so just pump it slowly. Once you feel that the pedal is hard, then you're good to go.
After we're done, we want to make sure and check the brake fluid level. The level right now is at the max line. There's a max line here, a min line here. We're going to want to adjust this level accordingly. If you had to add fluid, just take the cap off. Add fluid. If you have to suck some out, just get it in between those two marks, preferably near the max line.
Speaker 3: Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2005 Dodge Durango, pretty much the same for any 2004 to 2009 Durango as well as the same year Chrysler Aspen. The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 13mm to 22mm sockets with a ratchet, large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, hammer, a wire brush, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.
If you don't have the benefit of air tools start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first then raise and support the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire. Okay, turn the wheel by hand or with the steering wheel to get better access to the back of the caliper. Next take a large screwdriver or a small pry bar, put it right in here and pry it out. This helps to return the piston back into the caliper a little bit, it loosens it up. Next, there are two 13mm bolts to remove, here and up here. These bolts should not be on there too tight so you should be able to get off with the small ratchet. Once those are out, then your caliper should come off. Here I just find that I need to pry out and reset the pistons a little more with the big screwdriver. Take the caliper and put it up there. Then the pads come right out.
You can see the pads are pretty thin. On this side, do the same thing. On these rotors, take the back of your fingernail and you can run it on the front and back side, you want to feel for any deep grooves. If there's no deep grooves and you have no pulsating in your brake pedal then you can usually install new pads as long as these are in good shape. I'm going to show you how to put new rotors on.
You're going to remove two larger bolts here and here next. These two bolts are going to be on there very tight, so either you want a breaker bar like this or what I do a lot is I take my ratchet and I put a piece of pipe on there, that gives me some extra leverage and then you just slowly add force to the pipe until the bolts start breaking free. Always go nice and slow and smoothly. I'll just speed it up here as I just use my ratchet to remove those two bolts the rest of the way. Those bolts are 22mms. That bracket comes off. Your hope is that, with a little tapping, the rotor will come off. If that doesn't work, what I do is I put the lug nuts back on and use the ball head on the ball peen hammer.
Here's a new rotor from 1A Auto; put it right in place. The next thing you want to do is take one of your old pads, and bring your caliper down. It's tough to show you, but just stick your old pad in there. Then take a large C-clamp like this, put into place and then as you tighten the C-clamp, the pistons get pushed back into the caliper. In order to put the new pads on you'll have to do this. Release that. Take that out. Now these pistons are back, pushed into the caliper.
Now on our caliper bracket, I'm just going to take a wire brush and clean off these stainless steel slides. Put our bracket on. I'm just going to fast forward here. Basically just move the bracket around a little bit, push those bolts in and thread them clockwise and they'll go in. Then tighten them up preliminarily with your ratchet and socket. Pull these to 110 foot pounds.
Here are new pads from 1A Auto. You generally want this wear indicator on the outside, facing the top. They go in just like before, put them right in place and together. Then bring our -- on the caliper there's slides here, make sure they are nice and free and you want to push them all the way, push them out as far as you can. Now, put the bottom on first. There's a little tab down here, get that under the slide here. What you might have to do sometimes is push your disk in and make sure all the pads are in the right place. Pull this out a little bit and get everything down into place. It's just a matter of finding the holes for the bolts. Get them started. Then these bolts should be tightened up around 20 to 22 foot pounds. I usually pull them tight with a small wrench like this.
Then straighten the steering back out either with your hands or by using the steering wheel. Then remount your wheel and tire, put the lug nuts on by hand first, then tighten them preliminarily before you put the vehicle down on the ground. Obviously we show you the passenger's side, but you'll want to do the driver's side. Always do your brakes in pairs. Now tighten your lug nuts up anywhere from a 100 to 120 foot pounds. Last but not least, make sure that you pump your brake pedal until you get it nice and firm and then do test stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1aauto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
