Replaces
Replaces Engine Oil Filter
$49.02
OBD2 Diagnostic Scan Tool
$59.95
Part Details
Specifications
About TRQ:
TRQ is a trusted brand dedicated to making every repair a success story by combining premium parts with easy installation. Each TRQ part is engineered by a team of automotive experts to meet or exceed OEM standards, delivering enhanced performance and maximum longevity. With rigorous in-house testing, the brand ensures superior fit and function across every product line. TRQ also provides customers with best-in-class, step-by-step installation videos—so you can complete repairs with confidence, whether you're a first-time DIYer or an industry professional.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1AAuto. I hope this how-to-video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a knock sensor on this 2002 Chevy Suburban with the 5.3 Liter engine, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 to 2005. The items you'll need are a new knock sensor from 1AAuto.com, a flat blade screwdriver, an 8, 10, and 22mm socket and ratchet with an extension, a fuel line disconnect tool (in this case a 3/8 inch), pliers, a vacuum, penetrating fluid, and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing the 8mm bolt that holds on your engine cover. That pulls free. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver, just loosen up this hose clamp right here and this hose clamp right over here. Now, you can pull the hose free. Pull it free from this side, then just lift it up and pry out the hose from the intake hose. Then it's free. Now, remove these three 8mm bolts right here. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Then remove these three 8mm bolts right here.
Next, disconnect these two harnesses. To do that, you just pull up on the tab and pull them free. Then pry this hose right here free, and then remove these three 10mm nuts. Lift up this bracket and pull it aside, and then remove this 8mm bolt right here, and then just pull that bracket aside, and then disconnect this hose clamp, and do the same thing back here with this one. You want to make sure you disconnect that harness as well and pull that aside. Do the same thing back here, until this set of harnesses loosens up. Then just remove this 10mm nut right here, and then you can just pull that set of harnesses aside. Then pull up the clip on the harness for your fuel injector, then push the tab on the harness and disconnect it, and repeat the process for the other seven.
Now, just loosen up this fuel line cap, and using a flat blade screwdriver and a rag, you want to just put the rag over it and push the tab on the fuel bleeder. It should spray out just a little bit, and it'll release the pressure. Then replace the cap and come over here and just pry off this clip. Then, using a fuel line separator tool, you just want to push that all the way in. For this one, it's a 3/8 inch. Then, once that's pushed all the way in, you can pull the fuel line free, and then it just pulls off. You put it on the fuel line below it and repeat the same process. Take a pair of pliers and push the teeth together on this hose clamp. Slide it down the hose, and then pull the hose free. Then just remove this series of 10mm bolts along each side of your intake manifold. You can kind of see them, they're down below the fuel rail there. We'll just fast forward as Don removes these.
Lift your intake manifold up and out. You will have to maneuver a lot of harnesses and wires and everything but you just want to get this out as far as you can get it to go, which at this point should be right about here. Once you get to this point, take your EGR and just feed it through the harnesses and out. Once you feed it through, you can just lift your intake manifold up and out. Pry up on your knock sensor harness caps. Then, using a pair of needle nose pliers, preferably bent ones, you want to push in the sides of the harness and then pull up. Do the same thing to this side and then your harness. Underneath that harness your knock sensors are located right here. Using a 22mm socket, just remove the knock sensor you want to replace. On the left is the old knock sensor; on the right is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they will fit exactly the same.
Feed your new knock sensor down into place. Just tighten it up, and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Push the harness back down onto the knock sensor and then replace the cap. Then replace the other end of the harness and that cap as well. Set your intake manifold back down into place, then just feed this hose down and pull it out through the other side. Now, disconnect your EGR by just pulling out on the clip with a flat blade screwdriver and just pulling the hose free. Then feed that hose through the side of your intake manifold. Just maneuver it down and into place. We're going to fast forward as Don continues to do this. You just have to move the cables and wires around until you can finally get it to set down, it does take a second but it will go down. Now reconnect this hose. Just using pliers, slide that hose clamp back into place, and then reconnect this bracket. You want to just line this up and push it back onto those studs. Then just replace those nuts. Take the EGR valve and push it back down into place, and replace the bolt that holds it there, and then reconnect that hose. Reconnect your other hose to the top of your intake manifold, replace this bracket and replace the bolts that hold it into place, reconnect this hose over here, and then replace this bracket and the bolts that hold it into place and just tighten those up. Then just replace each of these long 10mm bolts that line the side of your intake manifold, and then just tighten each of those up. You can see that we use a variety of different extensions just to help get there. You can use a longer one for these ones, then, as you get further back, you may need to use a shorter one. It does help to have a flashlight, too. Just make sure you reconnect your fuel lines, and then put those clips back into place to lock them.
Okay, you want to torque the manifold bolts. Start in the middle and go across, then work your way around the manifold in a counter-clockwise pattern. You want to tighten them on the first pass to 44 inch pounds, then 89 inch pounds. Now, just reconnect each of your fuel injectors. You just want to push the harness in and replace that clip and push it down into place. We'll fast forward as Don does this to the other fuel injectors. Lower the intake hose back down into place. You just push it back and then tighten up those two hose clamps. Double check that all your harnesses are connected and all the hoses are connected, and then replace your engine cover. Once you get it lined up, just replace that bolt and tighten it up. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the knock sensor harness on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on the Suburbans from 2001 to 2006. The items you'll need for this are: a new knock sensor harness from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 8mm and 10mm sockets, a ratchet with an extension, a fuel line disconnect tool (in this case a 3/8 inch), pliers, vacuum, penetrating oil, and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing the 8mm bolt that holds on your engine cover. That pulls free. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver, just loosen up this hose clamp right here and this hose clamp right over here. Now, you can pull the hose free. Pull it free from this side, then just lift it up and pry out the hose from the intake hose. Then it's free. Now, remove these three 8mm bolts right here. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Then remove these three 8mm bolts right here.
Next, disconnect these two harnesses. To do that, you just pull up on the tab and pull them free. Then pry this hose right here free, and then remove these three 10mm nuts. Lift up this bracket and pull it aside, and then remove this 8mm bolt right here, and then just pull that bracket aside, and then disconnect this hose clamp, and do the same thing back here with this one. You want to make sure you disconnect that harness as well and pull that aside. Do the same thing back here, until this set of harnesses loosens up. Then just remove this 10mm nut right here, and then you can just pull that set of harnesses aside. Then pull up the clip on the harness for your fuel injector, then push the tab on the harness and disconnect it, and repeat the process for the other seven.
Now, just loosen up this fuel line cap, and using a flat blade screwdriver and a rag, you want to just put the rag over it and push the tab on the fuel bleeder. It should spray out just a little bit, and it'll release the pressure. Then replace the cap and come over here and just pry off this clip. Then, using a fuel line separator tool, you just want to push that all the way in. For this one, it's a 3/8 inch. Then, once that's pushed all the way in, you can pull the fuel line free, and then it just pulls off. You put it on the fuel line below it and repeat the same process. Take a pair of pliers and push the teeth together on this hose clamp. Slide it down the hose, and then pull the hose free. Then just remove this series of 10mm bolts along each side of your intake manifold. You can kind of see them, they're down below the fuel rail there. We'll just fast forward as Don removes these.
Lift your intake manifold up and out. You will have to maneuver a lot of harnesses and wires and everything but you just want to get this out as far as you can get it to go, which at this point should be right about here. Once you get to this point, take your EGR and just feed it through the harnesses and out. Once you feed it through, you can just lift your intake manifold up and out
Pry up on your knock sensor harness caps. Then, using a pair of needle nose pliers, preferably bent ones, you want to push in the sides of the harness and then pull up. Do the same thing to this side and then your harness is free. On the left is the old harness; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they are identical and they will fit exactly the same.
Push your new harness down onto the knock sensors and replace the caps. Set your intake manifold back down into place, then just feed this hose down and pull it out through the other side. Now, disconnect your EGR by just pulling out on the clip with a flat blade screwdriver and just pulling the hose free. Then feed that hose through the side of your intake manifold. Just maneuver it down and into place. We're going to fast forward as Don continues to do this. You just have to move the cables and wires around until you can finally get it to set down, it does take a second but it will go down. Now reconnect this hose. Just using pliers, slide that hose clamp back into place, and then reconnect this bracket. You want to just line this up and push it back onto those studs. Then just replace those nuts.
Take the EGR valve and push it back down into place, and replace the bolt that holds it there, and then reconnect that hose. Reconnect your other hose to the top of your intake manifold, replace this bracket and replace the bolts that hold it into place, reconnect this hose over here, and then replace this bracket and the bolts that hold it into place and just tighten those up. Then just replace each of these long 10mm bolts that line the side of your intake manifold, and then just tighten each of those up. You can see that we use a variety of different extensions just to help get there. You can use a longer one for these ones, then, as you get further back, you may need to use a shorter one. It does help to have a flashlight, too. Just make sure you reconnect your fuel lines, and then put those clips back into place to lock them.
Okay, you want to torque the manifold bolts. Start in the middle and go across, then work your way around the manifold in a counter-clockwise pattern. You want to tighten them on the first pass to 44 inch pounds, then 89 inch pounds. Now, just reconnect each of your fuel injectors. You just want to push the harness in and replace that clip and push it down into place. We'll fast forward as Don does this to the other fuel injectors. Lower the intake hose back down into place. You just push it back and then tighten up those two hose clamps. Double check that all your harnesses are connected and all the hoses are connected, and then replace your engine cover. Once you get it lined up, just replace that bolt and tighten it up. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out, brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
ESA12267
EXCELLENT QUALITY. Better than the original item! FAST FAST SHIPPING! EXCELLENT customer service. This harness was perfect fit and easy to install. Works fantastic!
Just replaced the harness and knock sensors using this kit on my 5.3 and I have a check engine code now. I have to take off my intake again to see if it's the harness or knock sensor itself.
After replacing sensors I immediately got a check engine light. Codes where for both sensors. Before replacing I just had a code coming from one sensor. I would like to return them but pulling these sensors is a pain. Waist of time and money.
Worked just as the original
Great
Just like in the automotive store..
The parts fit my vehicle and work fine. Im happy with the items and would purchase again.
Great parts. They fit my 5.3 engine perfect on my 2001 silverado. I have told my friends and now they know where to order parts at great prices. Thanks guys
did not work. went through all the trouble of installation and no luck. had to do it all over again with an AC Delco part.
Only had it for a month works perfect so far
Yes and the connector
The limited lifetime warranty covers our part for as long as you own the vehicle. If the vehicle is sold then the warranty would become void. If you experience any issues with the parts, we ask that you contact us with a brief description of the issue so we may document our system. A replacement will be issued, and the faulty part(s) will need to be shipped back once the new parts are installed.
Yes
House brand made in another country
I did buy gaskets
A few hours. Only because you have to remove the whole upper intake.
