2009 GMC Savana 1500 Van V6 4.3L Engine Water Pump TRQ WPA07292

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra K1500. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's water pump.

If you like this video, please click "subscribe." We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles, and if you need this part for your truck, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: full metric socket set, 3/8" ratchet, socket extensions, small flat blade screwdriver, adjustable wrench, hammer, torque wrench, impact gun, drain bucket, brake cleaner, paper towels, razor, coolant, funnel

Using a small flat blade screwdriver, pop open the wire retainer on the top of your fan shroud, lift the wire off, and it's long enough that you can just lay it back in the engine bay. You can remove it from the battery, and take it out completely, if you'd like to, but this should give you plenty of room to work.

Remove the seven 10 millimeter bolts along the fan shroud. There should be two on the bottom on each side. Ours is missing two bolts, and then three along the top, and the same two bolt locations on this side. We'll remove these with a 10 millimeter socket ratchet and extension. Once the hardware is removed, lift up, and remove the upper fan shroud from the vehicle.

Remove your radiator cap by pushing down and turning it counterclockwise. At the bottom of the driver's side of the radiator, you'll see a little thumb screw for your radiator drain. Make sure you have a drain bucket underneath there, then reach down and loosen it by hand. Allow your cooling system to drain and then close the drain on the radiator.

We're going to use an adjustable wrench, because we don't have the right size open-end wrench, but that would work as well. As well as, some pipe wrenches. We're going to place that over the clutch fan nut, and then strike it quickly with a hammer.

Using the drive of a three-eighths ratchet – you could also use a three-eighths breaker bar –, go into the slot on the serpentine belt tensioner, and rotate it as far as we can clockwise, to put some extra tension on the serpentine belt. Then, try hitting the wrench again because this should keep the pulley from turning. Once it's loose, you can remove your ratchet, spin the clutch fan off.

Now use a 3/8" drive ratchet to turn the tensioner counter clockwise and remove our serpentine belt. Make sure you have a belt path for this, either under the hood somewhere.

Using a pair of locking jaw or other pliers, compress the clamp, move it off the end of the fitting for the water pump hose and then clamp on there. Twist it a little bit to free it up. Remove that from the water pump. Now, the other one is pretty tricky to get at, so we'll do the bottom hose on our water pump the same way. Remove the bolts and pull it out a little bit before, removing the other hose. Once again, we'll grab the hose with a pair of pliers. Just try to wiggle it, free it up a little bit. Once it's freed up, we'll remove the hose. Make sure there's a drain bucket underneath there.

Remove the four 14 millimeter bolts around the water pump with your 14 millimeter socket, ratchet, and extension. Now, normally the old gaskets tend to bake these on pretty good, so when you remove the bolts it should stay in place as long as you don't bump it. You can then wiggle the pump, pull it out far enough that we can access the last clip here. Remove that hose the same way we did with the first one using our pair of locking jaw pliers. Once everything's off you can remove your water pump from the vehicle. Using a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the four 10 millimeter bolts and the water pump pulley.

Here we have the old water pump that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same with the same large outlet on the bottom. Same four bolt flange for our water pump pulley, the threads for our clutch fan. You have the same two fittings on the top as well as the same two bolt mounting flanges on each side. The water pump impeller is actually behind this plate here. We have the same flange you can see there that'll bolt up to our engine block and allow coolant to pass through our pump.

Our new pump even comes with a pair of new gaskets for installation. So if your old water pump has failed and your vehicle is overheating, this new part from 1A Auto is going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.

Install your old water pump pulley on to the new pump. We have some new hardware we're going to be installing here. Get those screws going and then tighten them down with the 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. Clean the gasket services for both sides of the engine water pump. It's just these two little two-bolt flanges here. All we're going to do is just get in there with a razor blade. Scrape off any old gasket material, and then wipe it down with a rag or a paper towel and some brake cleaner.

Set your water pump bolts through and place the gaskets onto the bolts. This can get kind of tricky because you want to keep everything in place and get this inlet hose back on. It's much more difficult to do once it's on the vehicle. Slide the clamp back into place. Make sure your gaskets are still in place on the bolts then line up your water pump with a 14 millimeter socket and extension. Get your hardware started. Snug the bolts with a 14 millimeter socket, ratchet, and extension. Torque these bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Reinstall the remaining top hose and clamp as well as the bottom hose and that clamp.

Loop your serpentine belt under the crank pulley. We'll then go under the water pump, around the top, down and under the power steering pump, and over the A/C compressor pulley. On the left, we'll go over the tensioner and over the alternator. We'll then hold down where it will go below the idler pulley.

Using the drive from a 3/8" ratchet, we'll turn the tensioner counter clockwise. Slide the belt under. Take a quick look to make sure everything is aligned. There we go. Put tension back onto our belt. Using your ratchet, put tension on the serpentine belt by rotating the tensioner clockwise. Using your 16 millimeter socket, torque the crank bolt to 74 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the clutch fan and just snug it up by tapping it on with a wrench.

Reinstall your upper radiator fan shroud. Reinstall the seven 10 millimeter bolts secure in your fan shroud. Tighten them down with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Reinstall the wire along the top of your shroud. Lock it back into place.

Fill your vehicle with a 50-50 mix of Dex-Cool coolant. We're using the special funnel to show you how much air actually comes out of the system when you do this, but any old funnel will do at home.

To finish bleeding your cooling system, simply leave the radiator cap off, start your vehicle, and set your defrosters or vents to the lowest fan speed and the highest temperature setting. This will allow the heater core to bleed as well. Just run the vehicle. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge. Let it get up to temp and monitor the coolant level inside of your radiator and top off as necessary. You'll notice that there will be several surges where it sort of burps and an air bubble comes out. It loses some fluid. You top it off and this process will probably repeat a few times.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.