1997 Mercury Mountaineer Rear Driver & Passenger Side Ceramic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Calipers TRQ Performance BKA18418

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This part two of two in a two part video about replacing the rear brakes on a Ford Explorer. Please check our other videos for the first part of this video. Go ahead and press it and release it."? You can see now that moves independently. Press again and release it."? That's how you want it to work. If you're inspecting your emergency brake you always want to make sure this, the cable moves. So, have somebody press the brake and watch the cable. Make sure the cable and the arm moves, and the shoe should spread out when that happens. You can adjust your brakes. Down here you see this little star shape. That actually is a slot right here that you reach a screwdriver through and adjust that, although, most of them are, like this one, frozen up. Use a little bit of penetrating oil again. Let it sit for a while to see if you can get that to move so you can adjust that.

As far as these shoes, you can see they look pretty thin, but these are emergency brake shoes. Really all they do is hold the car in place they don't really do any braking, so they don't need much pad. There's almost never a reason to replace your shoes, just a matter of making sure everything's working freely and they're providing the emergency brake function. If you did want to replace them, these clips here you push down. You can see this little tab right here. You push those clips down on each side, and removed these springs, and then this shoe would basically come apart and off. To put them back together, I'm just going to show you parts from 1A Auto, they're going to go on just like the original. Like I said that these brakes from this vehicle are fine. So, I'll put the original stuff back together.

We'll put our disc back on. They press back on when you put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts up. We'll put the pad back in, pretty easy. There are three keys. Make sure they all go inside the piston. Squeeze. Then your outer one slides in. Come on. What you want to do is, you need to pull this slide out some. You want to make sure these slides are in good shape. They need to be nice and free like these are. If they're not, what you want to do, is pull them right out, clean them up, and put a little grease on them. Put them through the hoop, push it back in, pull that hoop on this side, and make sure they're sliding back and forth well. Another important thing to do, is . there's some stainless steel slides here that the brake shoes slide on . make sure you use a wire brush and clean those up. There's also one here. This one is actually broken, so I'll have to clean it up and put in on there before I put the disc together.

On these slides I just put a little tiny bit of grease. Put this one up and kind of hold on to it. Push that and slide back. Push it down and on. Put our 10mm bolts back in. You can tighten it up probably to about 20 foot-pounds. Tighten them up, but you don't have to wrench them really tight. Then we'll put the wheel back on, and we want to make sure before you road test the car, you pump the brake a bunch of times. When you move this cylinder back into itself it needs time to get the fluid back in there and fill itself back up. So, before you road test, pump the brakes a bunch of times, and then do a slow stop from like five miles an hour and make sure everything is working. Now I'll tighten these up to about, usually, 90 foot-pounds. Use the star pattern.

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