Replaces
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$181.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$189.95
Semi-Metallic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$193.95
4 Piece Brake Rotor Set
$229.95
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$249.95
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$261.95
Semi-Metallic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$264.95
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$299.95
Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Calipers
$309.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Wheel Bearings
$309.95
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this are new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; a 13, 18 and 21mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage; flat blade screwdriver; pliers; jack and jack stands; large C-clamp; wire brush; brake grease; and a torque wrench.
Pry off the hub cap. Then, using your 21mm socket and ratchet loosen up each of the lug nuts. Now, raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and remove your wheel.
Turn the wheel so you can access the brakes better. Inspect your brakes. These brakes really actually look good. Take the back of your fingernail and run it up and down. You're feeling for any large grooves. Even though it looks like there's a groove there, there's really not anything there. There's going to be light grooves but you don't want anything large. Do the same thing on the back side. Then you can see the pads. See the pad right there. There's plenty of life left on this outer pad. The inner pad you can see through here and there's actually a little slot there. That's actually a wear mark, so there's actually good life left on these brakes but we're going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you.
To make it easier to get the caliper off, just take a large screwdriver and put it into the brake disc and pry out. You don't have to move it far, just enough to help you get things apart. Then, we're going to remove the two 13mm bolts: here and one up here. Push in the slides on the bracket and then pull the caliper up and off. Now, pry out your brake pads.
Now, remove these two 18mm bolts on the back of your caliper bracket. We'll just fast forward as Mike removes those. If your vehicle has a little rust and the rotor isn't coming off, put a lug nut on and use a hammer to hit the back of it and then remove the lug nut and remove the rotor.
On the left, are the old brake pads and rotor. On the right, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put the rotor into place and then, replace a lug nut to just hold in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Take an old brake pad and put into your caliper. Then, take a large C-clamp and you just want to twist the C-clamp and it'll push those pistons on your caliper back in. These should be nice and smooth. They are a little bit catchy so I'm going to take them out, clean them off and regrease them. Apply the brake grease. Push the slides back into your caliper bracket. Now, pull off your brake pad slides and, using a wire brush, just clean the area where the slides were. Now put the brake caliper bracket back into place and replace the two 18mm bolts that hold it there. We'll fast forward as he tightens those up. Then you want to torque both of those to 95 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pad slides into place. All right I always find it's easier to adjust these a little bit. These ears here push and keep tension on the pads that way, but usually they just need to be bent in that way a little bit. Then it's always good to just take a screwdriver and bend these ears down some and then these ones up. Put some grease on the ends where they contact the slides. Now there's a small tab that comes down on these slides. Just bend that back up. Reinstall the inner pad, then you can use these clips and these are optional but these clips hold the pads out from the rotor while you're driving. You need to set the tabs in the slides to hold the brake pads in place while these clips are on.
Put your caliper back into place. Then, replace those two 13mm bolts and tighten them up. Now torque both of these to 25 foot-pounds.
Remove the lug nut and then put your wheel back into place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily and then lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each of the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hub cap.
After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new brake pads and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, a 10 and 21mm socket and ratchet, a hammer, flat blade screwdriver, large C-clamp, wire brush, torque wrench, brake grease and jack and jack stands.
Pry off the hub cap and then remove these 21mm lug nuts and you just want to loosen them each up while the vehicle's still on the ground. Then you want to jack the vehicle up and support it and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Then your wheel will pull free.
With your wheel off, you can do a quick inspection. You just want to feel with the back of your fingernails the rotor and you're just feeling for any deep grooves. You're going to have slight grooves. You can see the brake pads. Actually you can see them better right through here. There's the brake pad and then the rotor and the brake pad. You can see, actually, the rear brakes on this look fairly new but we're going to replace them anyways just to show you.
We'll remove these two 10mm bolts. A good idea, just to help you get it apart, take a large screwdriver or pry bar and you can just pry against the rotor and just do it slowly and easily. If you get a good enough grip, you can actually push the piston all the way back in, which is what you want to do. Then you want to pull the top up first and then pull that right off. Now the rotor will pull right off.
To remove your shoes, you want to remove the outer one first. Pry it with a screwdriver and just pull the shoe this way a little bit, pry out, and the inner one just pulls right out. These are the surfaces that your brake pads slide on and what can happen is, as these trucks age, this cast iron bracket, caliper bracket . water will get in between the bracket and slide and it will start rusting and that will cause these slides to actually expand a little bit and they'll seize your pads into the one spot and your brakes really won't work. First just clean the slide itself off with a wire brush and then we want to remove the slide. Just pry out these end tabs a little bit and now we want to wire brush the caliper bracket itself, as well.
I'm seeing just a little bit of scale here so I'm just going to take a chisel and if yours is in good shape, you don't have to worry about this but I'm just going to scrape it down some. Then there's two little indents here, the indents on the slide go to the outside, just put it in place. Then we're just going to put some brake grease on the slides. We've repeated the entire process for the slide up above it and then we're just going to apply some brake grease to that as well.
On the right, are the old brake pads and rotor. On the left, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.You want to push the piston back in. I was able to do that with a screwdriver at an earlier step but if you wanted to make sure, you could use a large C-clamp and take the C-clamp and press it back in. You can also just put your old brake pad in there for something for the C-clamp to be able to push on.
I'm putting my old brakes back on because as you saw they're in good shape and when you put the rotor on, make sure it goes on. You want a little bit of contact from the emergency brake shoes. You can see there's a lot of play so we're going to adjust the emergency brake shoes. On this side, we're going to go down and it's exposing more threads so that means it's pushing the emergency brake shoes out. The rotor still has quite a bit of play, so we'll continue to adjust it.
For the inner pad, again I'm using my original ones because they're in good shape. It goes into the caliper and then the outer one pushes in. Here you want to make sure these are nice and free, push them that way so it will go on. You might have to pull them out a little bit and they go right in. We'll just fast forward as Mike replaces those two 10mm bolts and tightens them up. Now torque both of those to 17 foot-pounds.
We'll fast forward as Mike replaces the wheel and then replaces those lug nuts and tightens them preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and torque each of the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 120 foot-pounds. Then just replace that hub cap.
After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pad until it firms up and then doing a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
