Replaces
Part Details
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
In this video, we're going to show you how to check and replace the front brakes on this 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty. Obviously we do the passenger side. You would want to repeat the driver side afterwards. You always want to replace your brakes in pairs.
Tools you'll need are jack and jack stand, 16, 17 and 21 millimeter sockets. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some leverage or for some of those lug nuts or other bolts that are difficult. If your vehicle, like ours, is from the Northeast, you might need a large hammer and a large pry bar to get the tire off as well as possibly to get the rotor off, large flat blade screwdriver, a small wire brush, large C-clamp and torque wrench.
Okay, you'll need a large screwdriver or pry bar. It doesn't have to be this big but there's a little slots back in the back. Going to pry out. The next one, that pulls right off. Okay, if you don't have to benefit of impact tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts while the truck is on the ground, then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts these are 21 millimeter. Here I'll just fast forward as I remove the lug nuts from the wheel. Okay, so my tire is basically just stuck onto the hub, so I put a lug nut back on. That just helps if your tire breaks loose, it doesn't go flying off and hurt you because it can be heavy. Give it some pulls. I try the foot method. It doesn't seem to work. Okay, neither of those methods work, then a nice big hammer. Hit the back of the tire. You don't want to hit the rim because you don't want to bend it and that'll get your wheel loose. Then you remove that lug nut and take the wheel and tire off.
Okay, so inspection of the brakes. You want to check your rotors. You can check the condition of your rotors. You can see they're in pretty good shape visually. Not a lot of rust. Take the back of your fingernail, run it up and down. You'll feel slight groves but you shouldn't feel much. Same thing back side. You shouldn't feel any deep grove. Okay. Then, looking in here, you can see there's your rotor. You see there's quite a bit of life left on the inner pad and then the outer pad has quite a bit of life left there as well.
Next thing you want to do is remove these calipers. You want to remove two bolts, one here and then one right down here. Okay, these bolts should both be 16 millimeter. On this truck, my lower bolt's 16 millimeter, my upper bolt is 14 millimeter. They should come off pretty easily with a regular ratchet. I'll fast forward through removing those. Again, on this truck, there were two different sizes. I believe one of them was replaced from a previous repair. They probably should both be 16 or 17 millimeter.
Okay. As your brakes wear, they have a self adjusting mechanism which is basically the pistons come out of the caliper. You can use a large screwdriver and this is to reset those pistons as well as to help you get the caliper off, but you can just see I'm prying out and if you watch, I'll be forcing the caliper out which is actually forcing the pistons back in. Okay. Now, the caliper's nice and loose. The caliper comes right off. Set it right here on the leaf spring. Okay. You can see there are two little return springs and you can take your outer pad out. I'll move that spring there. You see on my brakes, my outer pad, this is a wear indicator. There's still plenty of life left on there. I'll take my inner pad. Okay, the same thing that wear indicator, plenty of life in it.
Now, if you want to remove or replace your rotors, you're going to have to remove this caliper bracket. There's two 21 millimeter bolts here and down here. These bolts are going to be very tight. The right tool for the job is a good size breaker bar. if you don't have that, you can use your ratchet handle and a nice piece of pipe like this to give yourself some extra leverage to get them started.
Okay, and we'll fast forward here as I remove those bolts the rest of the way and then remove that caliper bracket. On a Northeastern truck like ours, you may run into the discs being pretty well seized onto the hubs, penetrating oil around the studs and as well as around the hub. I rotate it more and let it sit for a while. Use a large hammer. Be careful not to hit the wheel studs. Tap it in and then from the top, just to try and break it loose. Sometimes it'll break loose with just this. Then, the last thing is, you can use a pry bar. Put it between the steering knuckle and the disk and it'll come free. Here goes the new one. It slides right back into place.
Okay. As you can see, the brakes on the truck didn't really need to be replaced but we like to test fit the new parts from 1A Auto. Make sure everything fits on there great and you're going to have a good experience. Right here, I'm just fast forwarding. I just put a couple of lug nuts on, helps hold the rotor into place so you can put everything together easily. In your caliper bracket, there are little slides that the brake shoes run. You want to take those out, replace them with the new ones from your new pads. if your pads do not come with them, you want to clean them with a wire brush.
Okay. Also, you want to check both these. They should slide back and forth nice and easy like these do. If they're catching at all, take them out. Wire brush them, regrease them and put them back in, okay. Now, you take this caliper bracket. Put it in place. Okay and fast forward as I start those nuts in. What I notice is on starting them in is that the bracket is hitting on the rotor and so what I do is take my impact wrench, put another lug nut on and tighten those up and you can see the rotor goes in, then just remove the lug nuts and continue on here and just preliminarily tighten up those caliper bolts. You want to torque these to 145 foot-pounds. As your pads wear, your pistons work themselves out of the caliber. What you need to do is reset them, so I got my old pad here. Put that in place, then I use a large C-clamp. Okay. As I tighten the clamp, you'll see the two pistons move pull back in the caliper, all right.
Okay. They're all set. Okay. I use the wire brush, clean off my slides here and when you put these back in, they do have sides. Push down and make sure that is towards the bracket. See, this won't go up here. Okay. New pads from 1A Auto. Take them, push them up in, and slide them into place. Make sure they're in. Push in the sliding one there. Okay, I'll just fast forward as I start the bolts for the caliper to the bracket. Okay. These bolt I'm going to tighten, I'm going to torque between 23 and 25 foot-pounds.
Okay, speed up the tape here a little bit as I put the wheel back on, start the lug nuts by hand first and then I'll preliminary tighten them up with the ratchet. Okay, now I torqued the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds, using a crossing pattern and then I go around one by one and make sure they're all torqued.
Okay. Put the center cap back on and then, very important, make sure you pump your brakes a bunch of times. This resets the pistons and the calipers. Then, before you drive your vehicle on the road, just do a test stop from 5 and 10 miles an hour. Make sure the brakes are working properly.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2005 Ford Excursion. It's the same parts and similar process on this vehicle from 2000 to 2005. We'll show you on the driver's side, but the passenger's side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this are new brake pads and rotor kid from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 17 and 21 millimeter socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for leverage, large C-clamp, a hammer, torque wrench, brake grease, brake cleaner, and jack and jack stands.
Start off using the flat blade screwdriver, and just pry in this slot to remove this cap, and then you can access your 21 millimeter lug nuts. If you don't have air powered tools, you're going to want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground. Then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way. Now you can pull the wheel free.
Next, remove these two 17 millimeter bolts, and you want to use your socket and ratchet with your piece of pipe to help break them free, and then you can just remove them the rest of the way by hand, or using your ratchet. Pry inside the slot here to just push in the caliper piston, and this will help you to be able to pull off the caliper. You can just set that aside. Now, remove these two springs, and then pry out the brake pads. These brake pads aren't in great condition, so we'll just fast forward as he removes the other one.
Now, remove these two 21 millimeter bolts on the back of your bracket, again, using the piece of pipe for extra leverage to help break them free, and then you can just use the ratchet alone to remove them the rest of the way. Now you can pull the bracket free. Now, to help get your rotor free, you may need to hit it on the back with the hammer, and that will loosen it up, and you can pull it off.
On the left, is the old brake pads and rotor. On the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Using brake cleaner or mineral spirits, you want to just wipe down your brake rotor. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of the brake pads, and then check the slides on your caliper bracket. Make sure that they move in and out freely, and if you feel like you need more grease, just apply some grease.
Now, push your new rotor into place. Push your brake caliper bracket into place, and replace those 21 millimeter bolts that hold it. We'll fast forward as Don does this, and then tightens those up. Then you want to torque these to about 100 foot-pounds. Push your brake pads into place, and then replace those springs. Put an old brake pad into your caliper over those two pistons, and just use this large C-clamp to push the pistons in.
Now, push your caliper back into place in the bracket, and then replace those two 17 millimeter bolts. We'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque both of those to about 60 foot-pounds.
Take your wheel and put it back into place on those studs, and then you want to replace the lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle, and then tighten them the rest of the way. Then, torque each of those lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Then replace the cap.
Check your brake fluid level. Make sure it's where it needs to be, and then pump the brakes until they firm up, and then do a stopping test from five miles per hour, then ten miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
