Replaces
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$134.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$134.95
Ceramic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$139.95
Ceramic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$139.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$186.95
Ceramic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$247.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$254.95
Ceramic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$264.95
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
With the vehicle on the ground, 19 millimeter socket with a big breaker bar, or your tire iron, and loosen the lug nuts. Raise and support the vehicle. Just one note, on these wheels, you may have plastic trim covers that you have to remove first, but they're all missing on this. You loosen them up. Then raise, support the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts. Once you remove your lug nuts, remove the tire.
Use a large screwdriver or a small pry bar. You can see the pistons sticking out a little bit right here. We want to pry out. That'll push that piston back in, and it'll loosen everything up, so the caliper comes off easier. Two 10 millimeter bolts hold the caliper in place, 10 millimeter socket with a ratchet to remove. With the bolts out, rotate the top back first, and you can take that off. Then remove the pads.
Pry away from the caliper, and pull them down. The outer one slides out, then the inner one just pulls out of the piston, and out. Then just make sure that your caliper doesn't fall by putting a flexible retaining device on it just to hold it in place. We're going to put a lug nut on, just to keep it from flying off too far unexpectedly.
The emergency brake is a set of brake shoes inside. What's happening is, there's actually a lip that's not allowing the drum, or the hub, not allowing the rotor to come off. The brake shoes will stick on the back sometimes. You just got to keep working it off. Original rotor and pads from the vehicle, and new rotor and pads from 1A Auto. You can see the pads are exactly the same. They're going to mount exactly the same. High quality.
This is the wear mark, so you know when you're checking your brakes, if that's worn down, it's time to replace them. And rotor, exact replacement has the surface for the emergency brake on the back. It's going to install and function just like your original.
Reinstall, put the rotor in place. If you need to, you can adjust your emergency brakes by turning the dial down here. But normally if you can get the rotor on, and there's a little bit of resistance, then that's a good starting point. I'm just going to put a lug nut on and tighten it up, just to hold things in place while I put everything else together. I'm going to use some good quality break parts cleaner on the back side. I'll wet a rag, make sure I twist it, rotor all the way. Then the front side, spray it on, and wipe down the rotor surface.
I've reinstalled my old pad into the inside of the caliper, and using a C-clamp, just to make sure that the piston is all the way seated. You can see as we tighten up the C-clamp, the piston goes back in. We can remove that, and remove the pad, and just note on the back side of the caliper. This right here is the surface that you want to be putting the C-clamp against. We're going to put just a little bit of brake grease on the cast iron here where the pads ride. Then we'll also apply some to the back of the pads themselves to keep them from squeaking.
Put the inner pad in first, and then put in our outer pad. Then just use some brake cleaner. Clean off the pads, make sure you didn't get any grease on them, or oil. Then just check these slides. Make sure they're nice and free. If they're not free, you can pull them right out, clean them up, grease them, and put them back together. Ours are free. Sometimes you have to pull them out a little bit when you're putting it together. Down on, and put these bolts in. You just got to move the caliper into the right spot, and they'll go in. Tighten these up. You don't want to over-tighten them, though. Remove the lug nut.
Lift your wheel up in place. Start the lug nuts on, and then tighten them up preliminarily. Anytime you do brake work, you want to pump the brakes. Make sure you have a good firm pedal before you move or road test the vehicle. With the lug nuts preliminarily tightened, lower your vehicle down, and torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds, using a crossing pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
We're going to start this project. We're going to go ahead and loosen the wheel, the lug nuts here. We're going to use a breaker bar with a 19 millimeter socket. Next, we're going to go ahead and raise and support your vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands. In this case here, we're using a lift to make it a little bit easier. We'll just go ahead and remove the lug nuts here just by using that socket because we've already loosened those. With the lug nuts removed, we can now go ahead and remove the wheel and tire.
Okay, let's go ahead and we're going to start by removing the caliper itself. And doing so, we need to remove these two bolts. These are both 13mm. You can use a simple socket and ratchet. All right. What we want to do is separate the caliper, this will leave the pads on the rotor itself and you want to support this caliper with a strap of some sort so it doesn't just hang on the brake line. Next step is to go ahead and remove the brake pads right here, outboard pad and the inboard pad.
Next, we're going to use our 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen these bolts right here. There's two of them, upper one and what this is going to do is going to help us to remove this caliper bracket right here, which we need to do so in order to replace the rotor. Going to switch over here to a regular ratchet, to speed things up a little bit. You're going to get to a point where you can just go ahead and spin those out the rest of the way by hand. Now you're going to see we can go ahead and remove the rotor.
Right here is the original brake rotor and pad set. Over here we have the new brake rotor and pad set from 1A Auto. If we take a look here on the back side, these do come with the shims on the back of the pads. You don't want to get these confused with the sliders. The sliders are available in a new kit from 1A Auto in a caliper bracket repair kit. These are direct installation with no modifications.
Here we have our brake caliper bracket. You can see we have a slide here. These are all pretty nasty, right here and a pad slide right here all gummed up and everything. Here you have your slide boots. You can see that this side here is a little bit smoother than this side. This side here is a little bit tougher to push in but it is working. What we're going to do is a quick clean up and a rebuild on this here. We're going to start, simply, by popping this little component off here.
Now, it should just pop right off. Use a flat head screwdriver, and be gentle with it because it's not very thick metal. Pop this side off here. Slide that right there. Now, these rubber boots themselves, they do just wrap on and the pop right out. These are your slides. Have those right there. Now the boots themselves pop right off, like so. Now you have the bare caliper bracket. We're just going to use a little bit of a cleaning agent here and a metal brush or bristle here. Clean this up, getting the scaly rust off because you want a nice smooth seating patch here for that slider to fit back into. Flip this back over. Another thing I like to pay attention to is inside these holes here, is obviously where the slides are going to fit in. You want to grease these up. Now, one thing, over time if these boots get torn or you start to get moisture or water inside here, you can actually build up rust inside. So, this will actually stick and will not retract so your brakes might actually drag. Just as a habit, I just take a drill bit that is pretty close to the size of the port and just run it in, just to chase it. Just to kind of clean out any scaly rust that might be inside. Once that's done there, just chase it once again with some cleaning agent.
Next step, you want to go ahead and clean up your sliders. You simply just spray these down, use a towel or a rag, whatever you have lying around. Clean those up. You want to do an inspection on them, and make sure there's no rust or corrosion buildup. These here seem to be really clean. Make sure you get both of them. See, both of those, those are good. You want to do a visual inspection on the boots. Make sure there's no tears or anything in those. Those seem to be pretty good, just a little bit of dirt and grease on there.
Next we want to go ahead and clean your slides. These are the slides where your brake pads actually move back and forth on. If you happen to be cleaning these here, and you see that yours is bent or damaged or rusting—you do want to go ahead and replace these. They do play an important role with your brake pads. Make sure you're wearing safety glasses, also, while doing this. You don't want to get sprayed in the face by accident or get any of that, while using the bristle brush there, any little nuggets of grease in your eye. These are identical. They're not side specific or end specific, so it's okay if you get them mixed up.
Let's go ahead with the reassembly. This is the part where you'll want to use some lubrication on here as far as a regular barring grease or something to that effect. I'm going to start with the slide pins. You're going to take your rubber boot, slide that up and over. Go ahead, slide it and just push it in. That's that. These boots do pop on. I find they're a little side specific so you can look at the design of them when you remove that. Just press that in. Give them a quick test. Nice and smooth. Next is your slider brackets. We're going to go ahead and install these here. You can just do a visual inspection on here. Make sure that the tab is all the way down inside. Press that down. Flip it over. Do the same over here. Key point right here. You see where the sliders come right to the edge of the bracket, it is possible that while installing this you can install it a little bit off centered so when you actually install your breaks, and your rotor rotates, it'll squeak because it'll be rubbing on the inside of your shim right here. So, make sure that the shim does not protrude past the inside of the bracket.
The rotors themselves are going to come inside a plastic bag and they usually have some type of coating on them to keep them sealed. Basically like some type of coating on there that you want to go ahead and clean off. In this case here, we're just going to use some brake clean. Now, you can see I just stuck the rotor on backwards, we're not leaving it on the vehicle like this. Make sure you spray it all down. You're going to flip it. Set that on. You want to make sure you clean this because you don't want the new pads to absorb or get that chemical, that lubricant, on the pads themselves. At this point here, you're going to let these air dry. It's going to just take just a couple minutes for that to do that. To make it easier, you just want to grab this here and you want to turn this here. You're going to do so by having the key in the on position, that way you can manipulate the steering. You can go ahead and get that bracket installed. Line this up. We have our two bolts right here. Just get those caught. Thread them in as far as you can by hand. This here is an 18mm. I'm going to tighten these with the ratchet and then we're going to go back and torque those down. We got the torque wrench and the 18mm, we're going to tighten these up to 136 foot-pounds.
We have the original brake pads right here and the new pads. What we're looking at here is if you notice, there is a squeal tab here and a squeal tab here, but what the previous installer installed them both on one side of the vehicle. You're supposed to have one on each side of the vehicle. We're going to go ahead and install ours properly. Squeak tab will be mounted on the inside, inboard and then the standard pad that does not have a squeak tab will be placed on the outside. Next step is, we're going to go ahead and apply a little bit of grease to the slide area here. Just a little bit, you don't want to smear it all over the place because then you're going to get it on the rotor and that is going to hinder your braking performance. Inboard pad with the squeal tab, slide that right into place. Then we have the outboard pad. Line that right up. You push the rotor on, you can see it squishes right in.
Our next step here is actually we have to go ahead and compress these pistons back in into the caliper itself. You can use the old brake pad or you can use a block of wood as a shim for your C clamp. So in this case here, we're just going to set this in here. That way there, when we compress this here, it pushes in the distance together. Just going to use a regular C clamp to go ahead and compress this. You're going to have to go back and forth from one side to the other. What you're doing is you're pushing the brake fluid back up into the master cylinder. This is going to give you more clearance with the new pads and rotors.
You want to pay attention here. We're going to pop this right out, just to show you. There's two flat sides. Same on the bottom. So, you install this here, push it and that little boot will slip on. There's a reason for that. When you slide this together, there's a flat side on the side of the piston here, same on the bottom. That way when you go to tighten up the bolt, this actually stops the shaft from spinning and locks it into place. Make sure that slides in there and bottom slides in. Go ahead and line this one up. Get that lower one lined up and installed. The torque spec on these here are 21 to 26 foot pounds. We're going to go right in the middle. You can see I used the deep socket here, so I could get clearance from the brake line.
All right, we're going to go ahead and reinstall the tire. We're going to go ahead and reinstall the lug nuts here. You want to get a few threads caught on all of these here. These lug nuts are a 19 millimeter. So we're just going to snug these bottom and out. Bottom of the wheel out to the rotor. We're going to lower the vehicle down onto its own weight and then to a final torque. With the vehicle on the ground, we're going to do its final torque of the wheel which is between 83 and 112 foot-pounds. We're going to do it in a star pattern. Before test driving the vehicle, you want to start the engine and pump the brakes a few times. This will reseat the brake pads and compress the calipers.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
