Ford Lincoln Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA10141

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We're going to start this project. We're going to go ahead and loosen the wheel, the lug nuts here. We're going to use a breaker bar with a 19 millimeter socket. Next, we're going to go ahead and raise and support your vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands. In this case here, we're using a lift to make it a little bit easier. We'll just go ahead and remove the lug nuts here just by using that socket because we've already loosened those. With the lug nuts removed, we can now go ahead and remove the wheel and tire.

Okay, let's go ahead and we're going to start by removing the caliper itself. And doing so, we need to remove these two bolts. These are both 13mm. You can use a simple socket and ratchet. All right. What we want to do is separate the caliper, this will leave the pads on the rotor itself and you want to support this caliper with a strap of some sort so it doesn't just hang on the brake line. Next step is to go ahead and remove the brake pads right here, outboard pad and the inboard pad.

Next, we're going to use our 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen these bolts right here. There's two of them, upper one and what this is going to do is going to help us to remove this caliper bracket right here, which we need to do so in order to replace the rotor. Going to switch over here to a regular ratchet, to speed things up a little bit. You're going to get to a point where you can just go ahead and spin those out the rest of the way by hand. Now you're going to see we can go ahead and remove the rotor.

So we're going to go ahead and replace the rubber boots and the sliders for your brake caliper brackets. This kit here is offered by 1A Auto, and it does cover both driver and passenger side. For this representation here, we only need half of these components, so we're just going to move those over to the side.

I'm going to go ahead and tear this apart for you. The first thing I'm going to do is pull these sliders right out with the boots. Those do pop right off. Then your sliders right here, a flat head screwdriver will pop that right off. Flip it. Now sometimes, depends on how many times the brake has been replaced, these might be bent, rusted, broken, whatever it might be, and we do recommend that you replace them at the time with your pads and rotors anyways. Set that down, and we're going to disassemble the slider pins. You just slide the boot off, and it pops off. We're going to put the boots aside.

Alright, so where these sliders actually go into, we do recommend that you at least clean those out or chase it. So I just grabbed a drill bit that was very similar to the size of it. Now we're not drilling, and we're not using a power tool. We just want to run it through there just to clean out any scaly rust that might be built up in there.

Seems pretty smooth, run it through there. Okay, we're going to go ahead and do a little bit of cleaning here. Make sure you're wearing safety glasses because you don't want to get any of this stuff in your eye or eyes. Just make sure that we can clean that out just a little bit. You don't want to push it down too far inside, cause you might not be able to get it back out.

As you can see, in case you happen to do so, you got that towel stuck in there, you might want to use one of these picks. Spin it right on inside, catch that, in case you happen to do something crazy like I just did, and there you go. Obviously there was plenty of garbage in there which was kind of good that that happened so we could clean that out.

Next thing you want to do is clean your slide, and make sure that those are nice and smooth and that there's no rust or any issues with that. Do a visual inspection. Now we're going to go back here, right to where the sliders would be placed, I'm going to go ahead and give these a quick cleaning, just use a bristle brush, once again safety glasses 'cause if this is rusty or scaly, you're going to have little pieces flying out, and you don't want that chemical go into your face either.

So at this point here, your caliper bracket is ready for the kit to be installed. I'm going to take this first piece here and make sure we get that lined up properly. Now on your installation, you're going to notice the width of these two tabs. You want to make sure that when you install those there that they are in fact centered. Okay, so what you're going to be looking at is right here where the slider comes down, you don't want this slider to be overlapping or off-centered.

Okay, once these are installed, you want to look at the side and make sure that it is seated all the way around and that it's clipped in fully on both sides. Push that down. If you need to, you can grab a screwdriver, and make sure that that's pressed down on both sides. Flip it over, double check, 'cause this is where your pads are going to be sliding.

Next, you want to take your boot, these boots are identical, doesn't matter if they get mixed up or which direction they go on. You're going to take a little bit of brake caliper grease, we're going to slide a little bit these sliders here, put some on there. You do want to go ahead and slide that boot on, and just press it 'til it pops on, it'll slip right onto that. You can see that it's pressed on fully.

Now as you slide it on, there is a little lip right here for that boot to pop on, so just press it, you might need a little assistance there, just don't puncture that rubber boot, and that seals that slider pin. We're going to do the same thing on the opposite side. There you go, the caliper bracket has now been completely rebuilt, new boots, clean sliders and new pad sliders right here.

This component here actually clips onto the inside of the brake piston itself, so we're going to go ahead and get that installed, also comes with the kit. You can reuse your factory part or you can use the new one from the 1A Auto kit supplied. So you want to go ahead, use a flat head screwdriver and you want to just pop that out. Once it comes loose just kind of work that a little bit with the screwdriver. You can see that it has little clip retainers, so we're just going to line that back up. Just use your thumb to press it right in place, okay. So I'm going to go ahead, line this up, we have your two bolts right here, just get those caught. You can thread them in as far as you can by hand. This here is an 18 millimeter. I'm going to tighten these with the ratchet and then we're going to go back and torque those down.

Alright, so we've got the torque wrench and the 18 millimeter and we're going to tighten these up to 136 foot pounds. Okay, so we have the original brake pads right here and the new pads, what we're looking at here is, if you notice, there is a squeal tab here and a squeal tab here, but the previous installer installed them both on one side of the vehicle. You're supposed to have one on each side of the vehicle, so we're going to go ahead and install ours properly, squeak tab will be mounted on the inside, inboard, and then the standard pad that does not have a squeak tab will be placed on the outside.

Next step is, we're going to go ahead and apply a little bit of grease to the slide area here. Just a little bit, you don't want to smear it all over the place because then you're going to get it on the rotor and that is going to hinder your braking performance. Inboard pad with the squeal tab, slide that right into place. Then we have the outboard pad. Line that right up. You push the rotor on, you can see it squishes right in.

Our next step here is actually we have to go ahead and compress these pistons back in into the caliper itself. You can use the old brake pad or you can use a block of wood as a shim for your C clamp. So in this case here, we're just going to set this in here. That way there, when we compress this here, it pushes in the distance together. Just going to use a regular C clamp to go ahead and compress this. You're going to have to go back and forth from one side to the other. What you're doing is you're pushing the brake fluid back up into the master cylinder. This is going to give you more clearance with the new pads and rotors.

You want to pay attention here. We're going to pop this right out, just to show you. There's two flat sides. Same on the bottom. So, you install this here, push it and that little boot will slip on. There's a reason for that. When you slide this together, there's a flat side on the side of the piston here, same on the bottom. That way when you go to tighten up the bolt, this actually stops the shaft from spinning and locks it into place. Make sure that slides in there and bottom slides in. Go ahead and line this one up. Get that lower one lined up and installed. The torque spec on these here are 21 to 26 foot pounds. We're going to go right in the middle. You can see I used the deep socket here, so I could get clearance from the brake line.

All right, we're going to go ahead and reinstall the tire. We're going to go ahead and reinstall the lug nuts here. You want to get a few threads caught on all of these here. These lug nuts are a 19 millimeter. So we're just going to snug these bottom and out. Bottom of the wheel out to the rotor. We're going to lower the vehicle down onto its own weight and then to a final torque. With the vehicle on the ground, we're going to do its final torque of the wheel which is between 83 and 112 foot-pounds. We're going to do it in a star pattern. Before test driving the vehicle, you want to start the engine and pump the brakes a few times. This will reseat the brake pads and compress the calipers.

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