Replaces
2 Piece Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Set
$79.95
Wheel Bearing & Axle Socket Kit
$92.95
Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Wheel Bearings
$217.95
Semi-Metallic 5 Piece Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$222.95
Ceramic Performance Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$231.95
Semi-Metallic Performance 4 Piece Brake Pad & Rotor Kit
$239.95
Part Details
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.
You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.
Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.
A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.
You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.
Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. HI, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out. Next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to remove and replace a front hub bearing on this 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis. We do the passenger side. Obviously, the driver's side is the same as well. This procedure is generally the same for any '98 to 2011 Grand Marquis as well as the Ford Crown Victoria. Tools you'll need are a new hub from 1A Auto, jack and jack stands, 13, 18, 21 millimeter sockets with a ratchet and extension. You will need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage or impact tools as I use in the video, large screwdriver, wire brush, torque wrench and a 35 millimeter socket. That's not one that's usually found in many sets, so you'll need to go out and get that specially.
Start out by removing the wheel cover. You pry off the center cap. There should be a key somewhere in your car, in the glove compartment, and remove the center nut and then pry the wheel cover off. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground, then raise and support the vehicle and remove them. I'm going to fast forward here as I just remove those lug nuts, set aside that bracket that holds the hub cap and take the wheel and tire off. What you're going to do is remove this bolt and this bolt first. These bolts are 13 millimeters and they should come apart fairly easily. I'm just going to speed up as I remove the lower bolts and then I remove the upper bolts. Take those bolts off, take a screwdriver, put it right under here, pry between your caliper and the caliper bracket and bring the caliper up and off. Actually kind of put it right up in here just for the time being.
Now you want to remove two larger bolts, one here and one down here. These bolts are 18 millimeter and you're either going to want to use your breaker bar or, if all you have is a ratchet, put your ratchet on here and a piece of pipe. You put the pipe on the ratchet and then pull nice and easy until the bolt starts breaking loose. I'll fast forward again as I loosen up that bolt as well as loosen up the top bolt and then remove them both. Once that bracket is off, the rotor comes right off. You want to remove this cap. Just use a chisel or a screwdriver would work too. Now there's a 35 millimeter nut that holds the hub on. I have the benefit of air tools. If you don't have air tools, you'll need your 35 millimeter socket with your ratchet and a pipe for leverage. Probably even if you have a breaker bar, you might still need the pipe as this is on tight. Obviously air tools are the best method. Now your hub comes right off.
New hub from 1A Auto comes with the ABS ring. If your car doesn't have ABS, obviously this can bolt right on without any problem. There's a little bit of dirt on the backside here. Make sure it's a nice clean contact between the back of the hub and the axle. It goes right on. We're going to put the nut back on. Then just going to put it on preliminarily with our impact wrench. Now you need to torque this to 220 foot pounds.
You have a rotor from 1A Auto and it goes right on. I like to just put a lug nut on just to kind of hold things in place. The other thing on this is you want to make sure that these slide in and out freely, because that's actually what your caliper slides on. So put this between the steering knuckle and the rotor. Take your bolt, push it in from the outside, and kind of push it towards the bracket and start turning it clockwise to get it to go in. Get one started, put the other one in and get that started. I'm just going to speed up here as I use socket and ratchet to preliminarily tighten those bolts.
Now tighten and torque these bolts to 90 foot pounds. New pads from 1A Auto. The little kind of notches go up actually, put it in, push it into place. Take a caliper; you might have to push the slides in a little bit. Put the caliper down, push that in, squeeze this one in and down into place. These bolts that hold the calipers in place go in. Again just kind of push it in and start turning. Push it in and start turning. Speed up the film here again as again I just preliminarily tighten those bolts.
Here I use a torque wrench and you want to make sure that these are tightened to anywhere between about 15 and 16 foot pounds. So I can pull that lug nut back off and I put my wheel and tire back on. Then you want to start two of the lug nuts that oppose each other, tighten them up. Put the hub cap, the small center cap back on, then put the keeper for your hub cap back on and those three bolts. Tighten everything up preliminarily, then put the car on the ground, tighten the lug nuts to 100 foots pounds kind of using a alternating star pattern.
Then put your hub cap back on, put the safety net back in the center, tighten it up, make sure that the hub caps all seat all the way around, and then put the small center cap back on. Obviously put your key back into the glove compartment so you can find it next time. Before you road test whenever you've had the brakes apart, just pump the pedal a bunch of times, make sure you have good brake pressure on the pedal, and then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour before you go out and road test the car.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacements parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
