Replaces
4 Piece CV Axle Shaft Set
$283.95
6 Piece Steering & Drivetrain Kit
$291.95
4 Piece Control Arm with Ball Joint Set
$294.95
6 Piece Suspension Kit
$304.95
8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$324.95
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$339.95
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$344.95
8 Piece Suspension & Drivetrain Kit
$409.95
Part Details
Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. It's the same part and similar process on these Mountaineers for 2002 to 2005. The items that you'll for this are a new front hub from 1AAuto.com; a 14, 15, 18, 19 and 30mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; 5mm Allen bit or Allen wrench; flat blade screwdriver; jack and jack stands; and torque wrench.
Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry off the center cap. Once it comes off some you can just put your fingers underneath and pull it off. Then, use a 30mm socket to loosen up that center hub nut and remove it with a ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage. You can also use a larger breaker bar. If you have the benefit of air tools, you can do this step later as you'll see us do but we're just showing you how to do this in the beginning. Here you'd also want to loosen the lug nuts up with a 19mm socket and breaker bar or ratchet and pipe. We're just going to speed it up here. We've raised and secured the vehicle and we're using a ratchet or an air gun to remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.
Now, just open up this clip with a flat blade screwdriver. You just have to pry the tab and pull it open. Then just pry the harness out of this clip and pull it out of these three. Then you want to remove these two 14mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does that. Now using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry right here and that will push the piston in on the caliper and make it easier to pull the caliper off, do it again down here, and pull the caliper free. Then you want to set it up and out of the way so we're just going to put it up here. Just to make sure it doesn't fall down use a wire tie to just secure it up there.
Now, pry out your brake pads. The best way to tell the life left in your pads: this little slot right here is a wear mark so you can see it pretty much goes away once you have about an 1/8 of an inch of pads left. Like I said before, these pads have quite a bit of life left on them.
Now, remove these two 18mm bolts. You can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage. When you pull out the last bolt, the caliper bracket pulls free. Now pull your rotor off.
Now up here, you just want to reach down here behind your radiator reservoir and just push on the tab on this harness and pull the harness free. Then just open up this clip up here with a flat blade screwdriver and pull the harness down.
Now if you don't have air powered tools, you want to remove this 30mm nut with the tire on and the wheel on the ground. If you do have air powered tools, you can remove it right now. Then just make sure the axle moves in and out. Then come back here and you want to remove these three 15mm bolts. We're just going to start off by spraying them with some penetrating oil and then using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, just break them free and remove them. Now a tip on these: I start with 1/2 inch sized tools which are larger, heavier duty tools and once I get them loose I switch to 3/8 inch drive tools which are smaller and get in to the area a little better. It makes it a lot easier if you just turn your wheel so that you can get better access to this bolt back here.
Tap the hub with a hammer until it starts to move out. We realize that we have a bolt still in the hub a little bit so we're just going to remove that and then pull the hub free. We'll push the axle out of it.
On the left is the old hub. On the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly same. Take your new hub and push it onto the axle with the ABS harness on the top and then just push it back into place. When you have it lined up, just replace those three 15mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque each of those to 75 foot-pounds. Now we're just going to use our old clips, so we're just going to pry off the new clips and you could always just pry out your old clips and push these ones into place. Ours are in good condition so we're just going to use them. Feed the harness back up and get it up over the control arm and then just clip it back into that clip and push it back up into place. Replace the hub nut and just tighten that up preliminarily.
Take your rotor and push it into place and then replace a lug nut just to hold it there while you reassemble the caliper bracket and caliper. Now take your caliper bracket, line it up and then just replace those two 18mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 85 foot-pounds.
Just push your brake pads back into place and it helps if you just apply some brake grease to the tabs to help them go back in. Now remove your wire tie and pull your caliper back down. Move the C-stand and the brake pad and the caliper piston is pushed all the way in. Then take your caliper and push it back into place over your brake pads. You want to make sure that those slides push down underneath and line up. Once they're lined up, replace those two 14mm bolts and tighten them up. Then torque both of those to 25 foot-pounds.Then just push this back into those three clips, and then back into this bracket, and then close that final clip.
Wipe down any dirt that may have gotten on your rotor while replacing the caliper and then remove that lug nut, replace your wheel and then replace all of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way and then torque each of these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Now torque that hub nut to 180 foot-pounds. Now replace your hub cap. Just line it up and hit it back into place.
Then just grab your harness up here and push it back into the connector until it clicks.
Whenever you've done any work on your brakes, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the lower ball joint on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. We show you on the driver side, but the passenger side is the same procedure. It's the same part and similar process on these Mountaineers from '97 to 2010. The items you'll need for this are a new lower ball joint from 1AAuto.com; 15, 18, 19, 21, 24 and 30mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for some leverage; pliers; snap-ring pliers; a flat-blade screwdriver; hammer; ball joint press; torque wrench; jack and jack stands, and locking pliers, depending on the condition of your sway bar link.
Start off by removing your hub cab and then remove these 19mm lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen them up while the vehicle's on the ground, then jack up the vehicle and support it, and then loosen the lug nuts the rest of the way. Once you've removed those, you'll be able to pull it free.
Now, you want to break off the ends on the Cotter pin right here underneath your wheel knuckle and then you can either hammer it out with a punch or, if the Cotter pin is only sticking out on one side of the castle nut, you can actually just use your 24mm socket and ratchet to break it free. Then, just remove that nut and then put it back on just a few threads.
Remove the nut on the end of the axle and, obviously, if you have air-powered tools it's not a problem. You can have somebody hold the brakes and use a socket and breaker bar if you need to. You want to twist this nut back on until it's flush with the axle and just hammer it until you can see it move. Then come up here and just remove this 18mm nut. With that nut twisted on, again, just a few threads, hammer the wheel knuckle until it drops down. Then, using a 15mm socket and ratchet, you want to remove the nut at the top of your sway bar link. You can hold the bottom with a wrench if it's turning. You can see ours is turning and, in an ideal world, this would just loosen up and you could pull it down, but the top of ours just breaks off.
To help get it out, you want to jack up the other side of the vehicle, and this will lift the sway bar on this side, allowing you to get to the top of sway bar link easier. We'll just spray it with some penetrating oil. Then, using locking pliers, you want to hold onto it while twisting the nut on the bottom of the sway bar link. You'll notice that the plastic will start breaking away and that's fine. You just want to keep repeating the process until all the plastic is gone and you have better access to it. We'll fast-forward as Mike does this. When it gets to this point, you'll be able to remove it and slide it down and out. If it is jammed up, just use a hammer.
Now disconnect your tie rod end, so remove the Cotter pin from the tie rod and I break off the bent over section. I just break it off and then I'm able to pull out the rest of the pin. Then, a 19mm socket, ratchet and a breaker bar loosen it up. You want to take the nut all the way off and then just thread it back on a few threads. Then hit the steering knuckle with a hammer until it pops free. Remove the nut and take the tie rod off and set it aside. If the nut is still on the lower ball joint, hit with a hammer to break it free.
Now support your lower control arm. You can see I have jack stands underneath the frame in the front for both sides. Jack that up with a jack. Here again, make sure the axle is free. I'm not hitting that hard. You don't want to hit your axle too hard because you could damage the CV joints. I'm really just tapping it. Jack it up a little further and now just lift up on the steering knuckle and remove the nut from the lower ball joint. Now remove the nut at the top of the wheel knuckle and pull the upper control arm out of the knuckle.
Take the axle out. Then, you want to take the wheel knuckle and pull it off the stud on the lower ball joints. Just remove that nut the rest of the way. Put it back on there and then just pull the wheel knuckle down and off that stud while pulling your axle out at the same time. It can be a little difficult, but it will eventually go. It's a good idea to just keep it secured to the top of the upper control arm, so just put that nut back on halfway for now.
Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap ring along the top of the ball joint. Once you get it about halfway, you can just use a flat blade screwdriver and pry it up the rest of the way. With the ball joint press, we've got a cup around the lower part of the ball joint and that there, with a hole through there, so just press the ball joint right down through. I'm just tightening the press and then I hit it with a hammer at the same time, and that just kind of helps to break the ball joint free.
On the left is the old ball joint; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. They do look similar, but there's some slight differences. However, ours will fit exactly the same. Remove the nut from your new ball joint and then you want to just carefully pry this boot off. Then set up your ball joint press and push the ball joint back into place. Again here, I'm going to tighten it up and just use the hammer to shock it a little bit to help it work its way in.
Once it's all the way back in, just replace that boot and make sure it's on all the way. Take your snap ring and put the snap ring along the top and make sure it's all the way down. Now take your wheel knuckle and you can remove the nut at the top holding it to the upper control arm. Then you want to feed your axle through while putting it back on that stud for your ball joint. This can take some maneuvering, but it will go, and then when you get enough space in the lower ball joint, you want to just replace that nut so it will hold it in place there.
Now push your upper control arm back into the wheel knuckle and replace that nut. Take your outer tie rod and push it back down and into the wheel knuckle and replace that nut. Then you want to torque that to 50 foot-pounds.
Push your new Cotter pin through, or your old one if you managed to save it, then just bend the tabs in opposite directions. Torque the upper ball joint nut to 50 to 55 foot-pounds.
Now replace the axle nut. Tighten it preliminarily. Put a jack underneath your steering knuckle and this basically raises the knuckle onto the ball joint to hold the ball joint in place. You want to tighten that nut up to 70 to 75 foot-pounds, and then further if you need to, to get the Cotter pin through.
Now, you can lower the wheel knuckle and then twist in your grease fitting at the top of the ball joint. We actually end up putting in a 90-degree grease fitting so it's a little easier to grease, and just tighten it up with our 7mm wrench. Then, just top the ball joint off with some grease.
Now you want to replace your sway bar link and you could see that ours was badly destroyed, so we're going to use a new one. You just slide it up through and the order is washer, then bushing, then the lower control arm, then bushing, then washer, then that metal tube, and then another washer and another bushing. Then it should be the sway bar, but you can see that the sway bar is just a little bit too low, so if you jack up the other wheel, you can see the sway bar go up and now you can fit in that bushing. Push the sway bar link up through the sway bar and then do another bushing, then a washer and then the nut. Then just lower the other side and it will compress the sway bar link and then just tighten that up with your 15mm wrench and 15mm socket and ratchet. For your final tightening of the stabilizer link, you can see I've got the vehicle on the ground, and the jack's underneath holding the suspension up in its usual ride height, and then I want to tighten it up so that the bushings basically come out to the same spot as the washers, basically compress the bushings down.
We'll fast-forward as Mike replaces the wheel and then replaces those lug nuts and just tightens them up preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and torque each of the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then torque this 30mm nut to 184 foot-pounds, and then just replace your hub cap.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
