Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ year's experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front brakes on this 2001 Ford Taurus, exactly the same for any '01 or '02 Ford Taurus, and really this procedure is the same for probably just about any Taurus from '96 through '07. Tools you'll need are pretty standard, a jack and jack stands, 19 mm socket and ratchet or the tire iron, a 12 mm socket, a wire tie, a 15 mm socket, a torque wrench, and a large c-clamp.
We'll start by removing the wheel. If you have the benefit of air tools, that's great. If you don't have the benefit of air tools what you'll want to do is first loosen your lug nuts while the wheel is still on the ground. Then raise the car and take the lug nuts the rest of the way off.
Now with the tire off you're going to want to turn your wheels so that you can reach the back of the calipers. Now remove these two 12 mm bolts, one here, and one here. Those hold the caliper on. Now your caliper will pull off. You may want to use a screwdriver or something to pry it. The caliper comes off along with your brake shoes. We're just going to replace your brake shoes. We can kind of put the caliper up there. You can see actually on these brake shoes there's a line in the middle of them. When you look at it like that, that line is a wear indicator so if you couldn't see that line from the top anymore you'd know you'd need new shoes. These actually still have quite a bit of life left on them. So here's our original pad. Here's the new pad from 1A Auto. Everything is going to be the same. They're going to install the same. You can actually see that the new pad from 1A is a little larger, and we can see that on our rotor there are some spots where the pads weren't hitting. That's what the new pads from 1A are going to do. They're going to hit more of the disc and just do a little bit better job braking; nothing incredible, but like I said, these are in good shape so I'm just going to reinstall the originals for now, but I just wanted to show you that the new ones from 1A are going to go on. They're going to mount just like the original and work exactly the same maybe even just a little bit better. They come with the anti-rattle, and squeak, backing, everything.
Now moving along I'm going to show you how to remove and then put back on new rotors. I've secured my caliper up top with a wire tie so it hangs and it won't damage, you don't want to damage this hose. These bolts are 15 mm. I didn't get a good shot of these while I was doing these so here's the bolts that I'm working on right now. Here's the top one to enlarge your 15 mm, and here's the lower one, and this is out of sequence. You can see that the caliper is still on. Once you have that bracket off then your disc just comes right off. The new one from 1A Auto is going to go on just like the original, and just want to show you that. I am actually going to put the old brakes back together because they're in fine shape on this car. We'll torque these to 75 foot pounds. I'm going to use a large c-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper, and you generally might want to pop the cap off your brake master cylinder under the hood, but generally I do that and you don't have to worry much about it.
So put our pads back in place. Cut our caliper down. Put it in place. 12 mm bolts. You might have to kind of work it around a little bit here. These you only want to tighten up to about 20 foot pounds barely enough to make the wrench work. Now we can reinstall our wheel. I'm just going to tighten up a little with the impact wrench. Back on the ground you want to tighten up the lug nuts anywhere from 75 to 100 foot-pounds and use the star pattern so one, two, cross, cross, cross.
As I'm tightening these up, tightening these up is very important. The first time you go to use your car, pump your brakes multiple times until you feel your pedal firm up because since you pushed those pistons back into the calipers it will take a little bit for the system to refill so pump the brakes a bunch of times and then when you road test just put it in gear first, make sure that the brakes hold the car, then after that just do like a five mile an hour stop, make sure the brakes are working before you go out on the road.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
