1998 Mazda B4000 Truck V6 4.0L Alternator DIY Solutions ECS00017

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the alternator on this 2005 Ford F150 with the 4.6-liter V8 engine. The items you'll need for this is a new alternator from 1AAuto.com, 1/2" ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, an 8mm and 10mm socket and ratchet, and a torque wrench.

You want to start off by disconnecting your battery. Just disconnect the negative battery cable, using an 8mm socket and ratchet. Pull the cable free.

Using your screwdriver, just loosen up the hose clamp here and right here. Then push the tab on this hose and pull it free. Then pull your air intake hose free.

Now, using your 1/2" ratchet, just push it into the tensioner. Using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, just pull the ratchet or breaker bar back and then pull the belt off the alternator. Then carefully release the tension on the ratchet and pull it free. Lift up this harness from that stud and then remove this 10mm nut holding on this harness. Once you remove that nut the harness will pull free.

Now you want to remove these four 10mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now push the tab on this harness and disconnect it, and pull that bracket free. Now down here there's two more 10mm bolts holding in the alternator. You just need to loosen them up. We'll fast-forward as Mike loosens those up. Once they're loosened up you can just lift your alternator up and out.

Take your new alternator and feed it down into place. Since our original alternator was working fine we're just reinstalling it. Then you can reconnect the harness and replace that bracket. Then replace those four 10mm bolts and tighten them up. Torque each of those 10mm bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Replace that 10mm nut that holds this harness in place and tighten it up. On this nut you'll see I have a torque wrench in my hand. You don't have to torque this nut. You just want to tighten it up firm but not too tight. Then push that cover back down.

Now tighten up those two lower 10mm bolts. You'll want to torque these to 20 to 25 foot-pounds as well. Take my pipe, pull as far as I can on the tensioner and I should be able to lift the belt up. I'm going to try and take it off of this idler pulley, get it up onto the alternator, pull my tensioner and then push the belt down. You can see the idler pulley is the last one. Push it right down under.

Replace your air intake hose, reconnect this hose, and then tighten up those two hose clamps.

Push your negative battery cable back into place and just tighten it back up.

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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're working with our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0-liter V6, we're going to be showing you how to remove and reinstall the alternator. If you like this information, please click "subscribe," we have a ton more information on this vehicle as well as many other makes and models. If you want this part for your vehicle, it's available from 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair will include 7-13mm sockets, 3/8 drive ratchet, Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, hooked pick, small flat blade, and a screwdriver.

Before removing any components of the serpentine belt, be sure to check that your vehicle has a belt diagram somewhere on it. Ours is still present on the upper radiator support, but you may also find them under the hood or in your owner's manual. If you don't have one available, simply look at the belt and the path around the pulleys, and draw yourself a little diagram of where everything goes to ensure that everything is installed correctly and turns in the correct direction.

The battery is located on the front driver's side of the engine bay on this truck. We're going to use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet, or you can use a wrench, to remove the clamp on the ground side of the battery. Loosen the clamp. Wiggle it off of the terminal. Tuck it somewhere down to the side where it won't accidentally come back and complete the circuit.

We're going to remove this cover over the throttle body. Use a small Phillip's head screwdriver to remove these two screws, and a 7 millimeter socket and ratchet for the bolt in the back. Remove the cover from the intake.

We're going to use a flat blade screwdriver to loosen these two screw type clamps on our intake tube. Then wiggle the tube off of the MAF sensor and the throttle body, and remove it from the vehicle. You'll also have to remove this breather line from the back, so we'll remove the intake tube from the throttle body, and the MAF. Pull it straight off the breather, and remove it from the vehicle.

Your serpentine belt tensioner is located on the passenger side of the engine, just below the alternator. At the bottom, there is a 3/8” square drive, which we'll use the end of a 3/8's drive ratchet for. Install it into the drive, the same way you would install a socket onto the ratchet. We'll move the tensioner counterclockwise to release tension from the belt. Unhook the belt from the alternator pulley.

We're going to use a hooked pick to pull up and release the tab from the large connector of the alternator here. Remove that. You may want to use it to hook and release the connector down here as well. This is a single wire. We'll disconnect those two parts. Remove the power wire with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove the power wire from its stud.

Remove these three 13 millimeter bolts for the socket ratchet extension. Support the alternator while you remove the last bolt. Remove the clip that secures the wire harness. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.

Here we have our old alternator that we removed from our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these alternators are exactly the same, with the exception of this little extension that we're going to have to change over onto our new alternator to make it easier to access the power. We have the same mounting locations. We have the same three pin connector, as well as the same single wire exciter. They are both a 130 amp alternator, and they have the same pulley on them as well. We have to change this extension piece from our old alternator onto our new one to make it easier to get power onto the alternator.

We use a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to remove the nut from the new part. It is very likely that this part will break. Pry it up with a flat blade screwdriver. Watch for those pieces of debris to make sure that they don't fall into the alternator. See, ours did break on the way off. Remove this red cap on this extension piece. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver. Using an 11 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the nut. This piece simply slides out. Slides into the new alternator. Reinstall that 11 millimeter nut, and the plastic cap. Now our alternator is ready to go into our truck.

Drop the alternator back into place. Start the lower bolts here first. Remember to place the tab for the harness under the top bolt before installing. Tighten them down with a 13 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 35 foot-pounds.

Reinstall the wire and the three pin connector at the top. Lay the power wire over the mounting stud. Reinstall the 10 millimeter nut. Tighten it down with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet.

Ensure that your belt is properly routed still and that it is not fallen partially off any of the pulleys. Use your 3/8” ratchet to remove tension from the tensioner. Install your belt over the alternator and remove your ratchet.

Reinstall the breather line in both ends of the intake tube to the throttle body and the air box. Tighten down the clamps with a flat blade screwdriver. Reinstall the engine cover.

We'll tighten down the front two screws with a Phillips head screwdriver and the rear with a 7 millimeter socket. Reconnect the negative terminal. Tighten the clamp back up. 10 millimeter socket and ratchet or wrench. Ensure your connection is tight. You're ready to go.

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