1998 Mazda B3000 Truck Rear Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Suspension Kit TRQ PSA56138

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

This video is part one of a two-part series, replacing the ball joint in this '97 Expedition. In this video, we basically detail removing the old ball joint. This is the same for all the Expeditions, F150s, Explorers, a whole bunch of the Ford trucks and SUVs from this era.

Here's a list of the tools that we use on the Expedition. If you're doing a vehicle different from the Expedition, some of these sizes may differ. You will need heavy-duty tools. You're not going to want to try this with the 20-piece set Uncle Joe gave you for Christmas. This is heavy work. You'll need jack and jack stands, metric sockets 13-27 mm, standard sockets 1/2 inch to 7/8, you'll need a 35 mm socket, a 12 point 13 mm socket, ratchets extensions and a breaker bar or pipe because you will need to get some leverage on some of those bigger bolts and things, pliers, hammer, a heavy punch, ball joint removal tool, ball joint press, large flat blade screwdriver, and a paint marker or a old can of spray paint. The ball joint removal tool I'd recommend if you're going to be doing a lot of your own work. It's a pretty affordable tool to go out and get. Ball joint press might be something that you want to borrow.

Obviously, you're going to start by removing your cap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, what you'll want to do is start with your wheel on the ground. With your wheel on the ground, there are probably three things you're going to want to do. Loosen your lug nuts. Then there's a 35 mm bolt in the center that holds the axle into the hub you're going to want to take the cotter pin and the cover off of that and loosen that 35 mm bolt. Also, go underneath and there are seven 13 mm 12 point bolts that hold your axle to your front drive. You'll want to just loosen those seven bolts. Much easier to loosen all these bolts with your tire on the ground held in place if you don't have all the tools that I have access to. You're going to want to loosen up your torsion bar. Your torsion bar is actually your spring. This is what supports the vehicle. I'm just going to take a little silver spray paint ... That way, when I back that bolt out, I'll know where it originally was.

Using an 18 mm socket and a ratchet, I'm going to loosen the torsion bar tension nut, or bolt, and you can basically pull it all the way out and then just turn it back in a few turns. You just want to loosen it up and take as much tension off the torsion bar as you can. You can see as I'm done, you can see where there's no paint on the threads, that that is how far you would want to retighten it. Now we're going to undo our tie rod end here. I'm just going to speed it up here. The cotter pin's very rusty, so first so first I break it with the pliers. Then I use a hammer and punch and just kind of keep working and breaking small pieces off until I can drive it through and out of the tie rod end. Now I'm pounding a 21 mm socket onto that nut because it was quite rusty. I just want to make sure I get a good socket that gets a good grip on it.

I've got a bar on here. Put a piece of pipe on it for some more leverage. Hopefully it comes apart. Just fast forward here as I switch over to a ratchet and remove the nut the rest of the way. Here I'm going to put a tie rod, it's a tie rod and ball joint tool, but obviously I'm using it to do a tie rod right now. By using this tool, I can assure that I can just reassemble my tie rod. I won't damage the tie rod by removing it this way. Next, I'm going to remove the stabilizer link, so I'm going to spray the top of it with some penetrating oil and let it sit for awhile. These stabilizer links are sometimes difficult to get apart. You can use hand tools. They will come apart. I just chose to use a impact wrench just to make it easier. I have a 9/16 socket on the bottom and a 14 mm socket on the top.

Use a hammer and pound down on that bolt. Then use a punch, see if you can it to go down through the sleeve. I end up actually having to use vice-grips and a wrench. Obviously, you also want to remove the other side so you can move your stabilizer bar around easily. What I'm going to do here, put set of vice-grips onto this shaft, tighter here. Now we're going to remove the half shaft of the CV axle. As I said in the beginning of the video, these are the bolts that if you don't have all the tools that I have, it might be easier to just loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. You can see I use a big, large crowbar to hold the hub in place while I'm loosening those bolts.

You can see I spin it, loosen one of the bolts, spin it some more, loosen another bolt. If you were actually doing this with your vehicle on the ground, you'd have to probably loosen one or two of the bolts, then roll your car a little bit, put it in park, put the emergency brake on, loosen a couple more, and keep repeating that process.
Once it's unbolted, pull it down and off. I use a pair of pliers and either break off the ends or just straighten out the cotter pin and pull it out. Okay, 35 mm ... As I said in the beginning, if you don't have impact tools and this is easier with the tire on and on the ground, your other option would be to have a helper hold the brakes while you remove it.

What I do is give it one tap and just watch it, see if it moves. Actually, it moves pretty freely. You can pull your stabilizer bar up and out of the way. Pull your axle down towards the front. Then push it, lift it up, push it out. I've got the vehicle support under the frame. Then I've got my jack right under the control arm. You can see there is the bolt for the ball joint, and then there's the jack. I have a piece of the wood on there so I can easily access that ball joint bolt, as well as get a puller on there. Now I can jack it up. You can see, without that torsion bar tightened, the suspension travels here very easily.

Now I'm going to use pliers to break off and remove the cotter pin from the lower bolt. It ends up being kind of a rusty mess, so I actually use a hammer and punch and pretty much just break it away as much as possible so I can get that bolt off. Now a 27 mm socket put it on there, use a little hammer, make sure it goes all the way on. Got a breaker bar on there, actually you're going to take piece of pipe, put it on, give me some extra leverage. It's coming loose. Just one note here: It will help if you take your tie rod and put it back into the steering knuckle and just put the bolt on. That tie rod will hold things in place while you loosen that ball joint nut.

Just speed it up as I change over to my ratchet and take that bolt most of the way off. While my bolt's still on there, take my ball joint removal tool- This just, doing it this way, allows you to break it free without things falling down. Finish removing this bolt. Get your control arm on up. Pull the steering knuckle down and off.
There's a snap ring that holds the ball joint in place. You can use snap ring pliers. Mine was pretty rusty so I used a screwdriver and a hammer to just kind of pry it off and pop it off.

Now you're going to take a ball joint pulling tool, put the collar up on there. With this particular press use a 7/8 socket, put one on top there, and just tighten down the press. Traded my ratchet handle for my breaker bar. I'm going to speed it up here. What I did there was I created a whole lot of pressure by tightening it down. Then I used a hammer, gave it a good whack that kind of broke it free, and then the press just works it the rest of the way out. There's my old ball joint out.
Good a place as any to end it. Check out part two for the reassembly.

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