2008 Mazda 6 Rear Passenger Side Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly TRQ BHA54317

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.

Hi, guys. Sue here at 1aauto.com and we're replacing the rear wheel bearing on our 07 Mazda 6 Sedan. If you need this bearing or any other parts for your car, click on the link below and come on over to 1aauto.com.

21 millimeter socket and we're gonna loosen up the lug nuts. I like to loosen in a star pattern, the same as installation. I like to loosen the lug nuts up with the weight of the vehicle. That stops the tire from turning. But once they're all loosened up, you can raise your vehicle, support it and remove the tire.

Just give it a wiggle off. Sometimes if it's stuck on the hub, I will put a lug nut on finger tight and smack it back and forth. That way, the tire doesn't bounce off at me. To remove a caliper bracket, I'm just gonna remove the whole caliper as one, so I'm gonna use just the bracket to the knuckle housing. This is a 14 millimeter socket. There's two bolts, one here and one down below. And they give you that window hole right here so you can go through the rear suspension with an extension to get at it easy. Here we go. Okay that top one's free. Now I'm gonna use that access hole with a three eights extension and my 14 millimeter socket, go right in there. I can put my ratchet on, break this one free. Now that I got that bolt all the way out with fingers, I can remove the caliper and bracket as one piece just by lifting up. I'm gonna set that aside inside the housing right there.

Take a impact hammer, Phillips, and we're gonna remove the seating bolts for this rotor. If you're lucky enough sometimes you can get with a regular screwdriver but they are meant to be hammered on to, so they are torqued on there. Once that's out, we're gonna remove the rotor. Now we're gonna remove the bearing cap cover. I have a bearing cap cover removal tool. If you don't have one of these, don't fray, you can use a flathead screwdriver or a flat chisel. You just don't wanna puncture the cover because it's made of tin. You don't want holes in it because they don't want water in there. That's the whole point of it.

When the axle hub nut, the bearing nut, it's hammered down to lock it into that key way. So we've got to undo it by hand. A little trick is to try to back that off. Now it's gonna go smoother for you. Removing the hub nut, it's a 35 millimeter socket, a half inch breaker bar. This is a nice bearing to do. Nice, somewhat easy job compared to the front bearings. Now you're just gonna grab it and slide the hub out. And that is your rear wheel bearing. Comes with the ABS ring. As you can see the ABS sensor, speed sensor, is covered. I'm gonna clean that up with a parts cleaner before I reassemble my new bearing.

Here we have the factory wheel bearing that we removed from our 07 Mazda 6. And the replacement wheel bearing from 1aauto.com, beautiful nice sealed bearings inside. You flip them over, you've got the ABS rings, you can see the same design of everything. I mean, it's good product. Can't wait to install it. So if you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.

To reinstall the bearing hub, you just place it on the spindle. Make sure there's no debris there. I already cleaned it. And you're just gonna wiggle it around because you're trying to seat that bearing on the spindle. Bottom it out and we're gonna reinstall the lock nut. This is a 35 millimeter socket once again, and the torque on this is gonna be 173 foot-pounds. And now we can take our punch and hammer and put the tab down on the lock. Replace the dust cap. I just see it on by hand, give it a little tap, spin it around, and you can use a brass punch to get really, smack it down. The reason for this dust cap, it is important because you don't want any water to get in there in that seated bearing. It will cause premature wear.

Reinstall our rotor, line up the nice mounting holes that this manufacturer supplies. This car came to us with only one mounting screw. That's fine. It's better than none. So we'll install this with our impact driver, I'm just gonna tighten it by hand. Once it gets bottomed out. To use it, you can feel a click in it and hold it firmly, and when I hit it, I twist it, locks it into place. Now we're gonna remount our caliper. Just slide the pads in between the rotor and then just get the mounting bolts, just wiggle it back and forth. You start it with your fingers. Now we're gonna install the bottom one. This one you're probably gonna need a socket. Use the nice access hole that they give you, put your 14 millimeter socket on there and start that by hand. Now we can use our ratchet and snug these down. We'll get the torque specs and we'll torque to the manufacturer's specifications. Caliper bracket bolts, mounting bolts, are 49 foot-pounds. We're just gonna torque that up and move on to the bottom one. Once you get your torque wrench in there, there we go, 49 foot-pounds.

Now we're gonna mount the tire back on. I'm just gonna hand tighten all the lug nuts. Load my vehicle just enough to put pressure on the tire. We've a got a 21 millimeter socket, and the wheel torque on this is 87 foot-pounds. Preset my torque wrench and then I'm gonna tighten them in a star pattern. Gonna do it twice, just to confirm it's all seated.

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