Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Front Lower Control Arms with Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Front Upper Control Arms with Ball Joints (2) Front Steering Rack & Pinion Bellows (2) Front Inner Tie Rods
Specification
Steering / Suspension Option
with 2 Piece Passenger Side Upper Control Arm
Location
Front
Product Features
100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life
Upgraded Elastomer: Premium seals to extended service life
Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear
Restored Performance: Refreshed steering system for improved road-feel
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 1995-2001 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 1997-2010 Mercury Mountaineer
How to Replace Upper Control Arms 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
How to Replace Outer Tie Rods 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2001-2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
How to Replace Outer Tie Rods 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
How to Replace Inner Tie Rod 1995-2001 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Inner Tie Rods 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
How to Replace Steering Rack and Pinion Bellows Boot 1998-2011 Ford Ranger
How to Replace Control Arm with Ball Joint 2001-2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
How to Replace Sway Bar Link 1997-2010 Mercury Mountaineer
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 2001-2005 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
Created on:
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Gloves
17mm Wrench
16mm Socket
Pry Bar
Wheel Chocks
19mm Socket
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Tools used
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Hammer
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
16mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Chisel
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Hold the sway bar link stud with a 16mm wrench
Remove the 15mm nut from the sway bar link
If the sway bar link is broken, fill the tube with rust penetrant
Hold the tube with vise grip pliers
Loosen the sway bar link stud with a 16mm socket and ratchet
Pull off the plastic tube
Remove any remaining plastic with a hammer and chisel
Loosen the sway bar link stud with a 16mm socket and ratchet
Push out the stud with a hammer
3. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Lift the opposite side of the vehicle with a jack
Put a washer onto the sway bar link stud
Put on a bushing
Put the sway bar link into place, through the control arm
Put on a bushing
Put on a washer
Put on the plastic tube
Put on a washer
Put on a bushing
Put the sway bar link into place, through the sway bar
Put on a bushing
Put on a washer
Thread on the 16mm nut
Tighten the nut preliminarily
Lower the jack
Support the suspension at ride height with a jack
Tighten the 16mm nut until the bushings are the same thickness as the washers
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Clip the ABS sensor wiring into place
Wipe down the rotor
Remove the placeholder lug nut
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front sway bar link on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer, same as any 2002 to 2005 Mountaineer, as well as Explorer. Our front passenger side is broken, so we show you how to get it out and replace it with a new one from 1A Auto. You'll need new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, 16mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for some leverage, jack and jack stands and a torque wrench.
You'll want to remove your center cap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, then loosen your lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise both front wheels and support the car with jack stands and then remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. Now you can pull the wheel free.
This is the driver side, which is actually still together, so you would, if you're removing one that was still together, put a 15mm socket and ratchet on top and a 16mm wrench on the bottom, remove that top nut and then go from there. On ours, it's broken so I'm just filling, basically, the cavity with penetrating oil. This is pretty typical: it breaks off up top here and you saw where you just filled it up with penetrating oil and now we're just messing around with it. We locked some locking pliers onto it. That penetrating oil really helped the bolt start up and we've basically broken the plastic here. Now this plastic tube will slide off.
We're just going to use a hammer and chisel to remove the rest of the plastic. This, of course, is the worst case scenario, you just want to remove the plastic, you can use some locking pliers and then just remove the nut on the bottom or at least loosen it up as much as you can. Then just hammer this down and out.
Before installing it, just jack up the other side, just slightly. Now replace your sway link and the order it should go in is: washer, bushing, control arm, then bushing, washer, the tube, and another washer, and then the bushing, and then your sway bar, then another bushing, another washer, and then the nut. You just want to tighten that nut preliminarily,and then release the jack.
To tighten up the link, what you want to do is have the car back down on the ground, and now I have a jack supporting just the front suspension so that basically everything is level and the suspension is in its correct ride height. Then tighten up the link by holding the wrench on top and then turning the bottom. Tighten it up so that the bushings are all squeezed to about the diameter of the washers.
Replace your wheel, then replace all the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you'd want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way, then torque each of these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Now replace your hubcap. Just line it up and hit it back into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Socket Extensions
15mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Trim Tool Set
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Ratchet Strap
Rubber Mallet
Gloves
Punch
Socket Driver
Copper Anti-Seize
Wheel Chocks
Bungee Cord
Chisel
Floor Jack
13mm Wrench
Tools used
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Pry Bar
1/2 Inch Ratchet
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Wire Cutters
Safety Glasses
Tools used
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
16mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Safety Glasses
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Locking Pliers
Gloves
Large Locking Pliers
Tools used
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Torque Wrench
Gloves
Pry Bar
1/2 Inch Ratchet
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Wire Cutters
Safety Glasses
Tools used
Gloves
16mm Wrench
16mm Socket
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Safety Glasses
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
19mm Socket
Safety Glasses
Pliers
Pick
Side Cutters
Locking Pliers
Gloves
Punch
Wheel Chocks
22mm Wrench
Anti-Seize Grease
Wire Ties
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
22mm Socket
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Gloves
1/2 Inch Ratchet
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
Wire Cutters
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Gloves
1/2 Inch Ratchet
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
Wire Cutters
Tools used
Hammer
Pry Bar
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Pickle Fork
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Locking Pliers
Ratchet Strap
Floor Jack
Wire Cutters
13mm Wrench
Marker / Writing Utensil
14mm Wrench
13mm Socket
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
14mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
16mm Socket
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Liquid Thread Locker
Safety Glasses
21mm Socket
Gloves
1 Inch Socket
Tools used
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Hammer
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
16mm Socket
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Chisel
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Hold the sway bar link stud with a 16mm wrench
Remove the 15mm nut from the sway bar link
If the sway bar link is broken, fill the tube with rust penetrant
Hold the tube with vise grip pliers
Loosen the sway bar link stud with a 16mm socket and ratchet
Pull off the plastic tube
Remove any remaining plastic with a hammer and chisel
Loosen the sway bar link stud with a 16mm socket and ratchet
Push out the stud with a hammer
3. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Lift the opposite side of the vehicle with a jack
Put a washer onto the sway bar link stud
Put on a bushing
Put the sway bar link into place, through the control arm
Put on a bushing
Put on a washer
Put on the plastic tube
Put on a washer
Put on a bushing
Put the sway bar link into place, through the sway bar
Put on a bushing
Put on a washer
Thread on the 16mm nut
Tighten the nut preliminarily
Lower the jack
Support the suspension at ride height with a jack
Tighten the 16mm nut until the bushings are the same thickness as the washers
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Clip the ABS sensor wiring into place
Wipe down the rotor
Remove the placeholder lug nut
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front sway bar link on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer, same as any 2002 to 2005 Mountaineer, as well as Explorer. Our front passenger side is broken, so we show you how to get it out and replace it with a new one from 1A Auto. You'll need new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, 16mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for some leverage, jack and jack stands and a torque wrench.
You'll want to remove your center cap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, then loosen your lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise both front wheels and support the car with jack stands and then remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. Now you can pull the wheel free.
This is the driver side, which is actually still together, so you would, if you're removing one that was still together, put a 15mm socket and ratchet on top and a 16mm wrench on the bottom, remove that top nut and then go from there. On ours, it's broken so I'm just filling, basically, the cavity with penetrating oil. This is pretty typical: it breaks off up top here and you saw where you just filled it up with penetrating oil and now we're just messing around with it. We locked some locking pliers onto it. That penetrating oil really helped the bolt start up and we've basically broken the plastic here. Now this plastic tube will slide off.
We're just going to use a hammer and chisel to remove the rest of the plastic. This, of course, is the worst case scenario, you just want to remove the plastic, you can use some locking pliers and then just remove the nut on the bottom or at least loosen it up as much as you can. Then just hammer this down and out.
Before installing it, just jack up the other side, just slightly. Now replace your sway link and the order it should go in is: washer, bushing, control arm, then bushing, washer, the tube, and another washer, and then the bushing, and then your sway bar, then another bushing, another washer, and then the nut. You just want to tighten that nut preliminarily,and then release the jack.
To tighten up the link, what you want to do is have the car back down on the ground, and now I have a jack supporting just the front suspension so that basically everything is level and the suspension is in its correct ride height. Then tighten up the link by holding the wrench on top and then turning the bottom. Tighten it up so that the bushings are all squeezed to about the diameter of the washers.
Replace your wheel, then replace all the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you'd want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way, then torque each of these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Now replace your hubcap. Just line it up and hit it back into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Torque Wrench
16mm Wrench
Hammer
Rust Penetrant
16mm Socket
18mm Wrench
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
Safety Glasses
1/4 Inch Ratchet
Locking Pliers
Gloves
Large Locking Pliers
PSA34488
In Stock
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