2001 Mazda B3000 Truck DS Rear Wheel Drive Front 4 Piece Suspension Kit TRQ PSA43363

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front sway bar link on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer, same as any 2002 to 2005 Mountaineer, as well as Explorer. Our front passenger side is broken, so we show you how to get it out and replace it with a new one from 1A Auto. You'll need new sway bar link from 1AAuto.com, 16mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for some leverage, jack and jack stands and a torque wrench.

You'll want to remove your center cap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, then loosen your lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground. Then raise both front wheels and support the car with jack stands and then remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. Now you can pull the wheel free.

This is the driver side, which is actually still together, so you would, if you're removing one that was still together, put a 15mm socket and ratchet on top and a 16mm wrench on the bottom, remove that top nut and then go from there. On ours, it's broken so I'm just filling, basically, the cavity with penetrating oil. This is pretty typical: it breaks off up top here and you saw where you just filled it up with penetrating oil and now we're just messing around with it. We locked some locking pliers onto it. That penetrating oil really helped the bolt start up and we've basically broken the plastic here. Now this plastic tube will slide off.

We're just going to use a hammer and chisel to remove the rest of the plastic. This, of course, is the worst case scenario, you just want to remove the plastic, you can use some locking pliers and then just remove the nut on the bottom or at least loosen it up as much as you can. Then just hammer this down and out.

Before installing it, just jack up the other side, just slightly. Now replace your sway link and the order it should go in is: washer, bushing, control arm, then bushing, washer, the tube, and another washer, and then the bushing, and then your sway bar, then another bushing, another washer, and then the nut. You just want to tighten that nut preliminarily,and then release the jack.

To tighten up the link, what you want to do is have the car back down on the ground, and now I have a jack supporting just the front suspension so that basically everything is level and the suspension is in its correct ride height. Then tighten up the link by holding the wrench on top and then turning the bottom. Tighten it up so that the bushings are all squeezed to about the diameter of the washers.

Replace your wheel, then replace all the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then you'd want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way, then torque each of these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Now replace your hubcap. Just line it up and hit it back into place.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you front shock replacement on this Ford Explorer Sport Trac. It's the same for the Sport Trac as well as a lot of Explorers, Mountaineers, and Rangers. We show you the left side, but the right side's the same procedure. You'll need new front shocks from 1AAuto.com, penetrating oil, 10 to 14 millimeter wrenches and sockets and ratchets, and you may need a reciprocating saw if your shock is in rough shape, although we avoid using it in this video.

Okay, we were checking some other things on the suspension of our truck. As we come under here, if you look at the shock, you can see it's got some oil down below that section, and that is a sign that your shock is either bad or it's wearing out and will soon be bad. To replace it, we're going to start spraying down the top of the shock there. We can see it's in pretty good shape. If yours was pretty rusty or old, you may want to use a reciprocating saw and just cut the bolt and the top of that shaft right off. It can be a lot easier sometimes but, again, ours look to be in pretty good shape, so we'll lock a set of pliers onto the top to hold the shaft from spinning. Then it's a 14mm bolt on this shock. It could be different on yours. Remove that nut. Once it starts going, we'll just fast-forward here. Once we get to a certain point we can take the lock pliers off and then the nut comes off the rest of the way. Also remove the top washer and bushing.

Underneath the shock's held on by two bolts. I have it up on a lift just to make it easier to show you, but the two bolts you can see here. I'm going to spray them down a little bit on the bottom, and then you need to hold them on the top as well see one up there. I'm using a wrench to put it on the bolt at the top and then a socket and ratchet with an extension to remove the nut on the bottom. Once you have both nuts off, you can pull one of the bolts out pretty easy, but the other one kind of stays in there. You have to force the shock up, compress it a little bit, and then pull it back and out. Take your new shock from 1A Auto, you want to put a washer on top first, and then one of the rubber cushions. Then put the shock up into place. You're going to have to kind of force it up in, compress it some once you put it up into, obviously where it goes, the shock mount at the top, you'll have to force it up and then into the mount at the bottom.

Once you have it in place, you're going to start the nuts and bolts on. On some shock designs it may be good to put a bolt into place first. If the shock kind of has an open end to the bolts and sometimes if the shock has a closed hole for the bolts, you'll want to put a bolt into the shock first and then install it into the car. Now tighten up both lower bolts; again, you're going to want to have a wrench at the top, hold the wrench, and then tighten up the nuts nice and firm. Don't over-tighten them; you don't want to break the bolts. Back up top, you want to make sure that the lower bushing's lined up in the center of the hole. Put the upper bushing on and then the washer and then thread the nut on. We'll fast-forward as I tighten up that nut. You want to tighten the nut until those two bushings compress and are basically the same diameter as the washer. You can see that they're a smaller diameter than the washer now. You compress them down and they kind of get basically smooshed out until they're the same diameter as the washer.

The particular shocks I'm installing come with a second nut that goes on. You tighten it down onto the other one to lock them in place. Here I'm just putting an adjustable wrench on the bottom one and then tightening up the top one down onto it. Repeat everything for the other side.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful "how to" as well as diagnoses videos.

Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0-liter four wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your front shock absorber. We're working on the passenger side, but this process will be exactly the same on the driver side.

If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck, as well as many other makes and models. If you need these parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: flat blade screwdriver, wheel lock key, 10-19mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, 10-19mm wrench, hammer, breaker bar, torque wrench, jack and jack stands

Using a taped flat blade screwdriver, locate the relief cuts in the hubcap. Stick the screwdriver in, and pry out to release it from the wheel. This particular truck has a wheel lock on it, so we'll need the wheel lock key in order to remove it. Otherwise, the rest of the nuts come off with a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Simply crack them loose for now. Then raise and support your vehicle, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel from the vehicle.

With the wheel and tire removed, you can fold up the skirt on the inside of the inner wheel well and see the 14 millimeter nut, as well as down here on the cap of the shock is a 16. Now, that can be pretty tight, so you may need to use a hammer to tap the wrench onto those flats. Just tap the wrench into place. You'll need to pair up a 14 and a slightly larger wrench for some extra leverage. Put the boxed end over the stud, and break the nut loose. Once the nut has been broken loose, if you have a ratcheting wrench, now is a great time to utilize that to finish removing the nut. Otherwise, you can remove it manually with a regular wrench. Once you've removed the nut from the top of the shock, you'll also need to remove the washer and the top bushing. Remove your wrench, and this should be even easier if you're replacing a shock that's already failed. You pull down and compress the shock. Once the stud comes out of the opening, go ahead and place it off to the side.

Place a 10 millimeter wrench over the bolt on the top side of the lower control arm and loosen up the 13 millimeter on the bottom. Remove the bolt from the top, and repeat this process with the opposite bolt. Move the top of the shock. Release the bottom. Slide the shock out of the upper control arm. You may have to compress it a little to help get it out, or you may just want to drop it out of the bottom, whichever is easiest.

Here we have our old shock that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts have the same height, diameter, the same bar pin at the bottom where it will bolt on to our lower control arm with a nice new bushing as well as the same cap on the top of the shock to hold while we tighten up the stud here. It comes with a nice new set of top bushings and washers, one for below the bracket, and one for above, as well as a new nut, and a new set of nuts and bolts for the bottom. What your shock absorber does is control the up-and-down travel of your vehicle. Bad shocks will make the ride feel harsh or bouncy because it's not controlling the rate at which the suspension travels as well as the number of times the suspension can travel up and down.

If your vehicle has a poor ride quality, is harsh or bouncing when hitting bumps, a new set of shocks from 1A Auto will go in direct fit just like your original equipment, get your vehicle writing nice and smooth, and fix you up right. Install your washer and bushing onto the stud of the shock. Set it up into the control arm. Through the opening in the shock bracket, place the bottom over its holes, set the top bushing and washer over the stud, and tighten up the nut at the top, a few threads by hand. Install the 10 millimeter bolt for the base of the shock, start the 13 millimeter nut on the bottom. Tighten up the nuts and bolts with a 10 millimeter wrench on the bolt head and a 13 millimeter socket ratchet and extension at the bottom. Once you've tightened one bolt down, go ahead and do the other. Hold the top nut of the shock in place with your 16, and tighten down the top with a 14 millimeter.

Reinstall the wheel and tire and start your lug nuts by hand. That's to 100 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Reinstall your center cap, and you're good to go.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years. We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. Visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.

In this video, we're going to be working with our 2006 Ford Explorer. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's sway bar link in the front. If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need these parts for your car, you can follow the link down into the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Using a 19mm socket and a breaker bar, loosen the lug nuts on your tire. Raise and support your vehicle. We're doing this on a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can be done at home on a jack and jack stands. Finish removing your lug nuts. You should be able to do this by hand at this point but you can use a ratchet if you need to. You can then remove your wheel and tire.

It may be a good idea to apply some penetrating oil to whatever parts you're going to be working with. Put a 17mm wrench on the nut on the top side of your sway bar link and brace it against the frame of the vehicle. You can then use a 16mm socket and ratchet on the bottom to loosen it. The sway bar link on these vehicles is essentially a series of bushing and washers with a sleeve all held together by one long bolt, as opposed to being a one-piece unit like some other vehicles.

You can see ours is pretty rough here, because there's usually not this much slack. That's actually what your bushing is supposed to look like on all four pieces, one on each side. You can see the old ones are worn down or cut there. It looks like they've actually fallen off over time. Once the nut's out, you can try to remove the bolt from the center of the sway bar link. This can be pretty difficult, so if it doesn't come out by hand, don't be afraid to get on there and give it a good hit with a hammer. The sway bar link will disassemble just like that when you pull it out, so just make sure you have all the old bushing material and all the old washers off of it.

Now you sort of need to build the sway bar link into the truck, so we'll start with a washer and then a bushing. We'll go up through the control arm, install a bushing with the tapered end down, followed by another washer, the sleeve, a washer with the cup end facing up, and a bushing with the tapered end facing up. We'll go through the sway bar, install another bushing. You may need to use a screw jack or floor jack to jack up the control arm to get enough slack on that bolt to install the sway bar link. Then install the washer and a nut and tighten your new hardware down. You'll want a 17mm wrench on the nut and a 16mm socket and ratchet on the bolt end. Just tighten that up until it compresses the bushings so you know that everything's nice and tight and there's no slop in there to make any noise when you go over bumps. Once that's down tight, you can lower the weight off of the screw jack or floor jack.

Reinstall the wheel and tire onto your hub. It's easiest to put a lug nut inside of the 19mm socket to start it onto the studs. Get all five of these down as tight as you can by hand, and then we'll torque the wheel once there's some weight on it. Lower the vehicle back down and put partial weight onto the wheel and tire. This means that you may have your jack or lift under the vehicle. Get the tire to touch and let the vehicle come down some without allowing it completely off of the lift or jack. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.

Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.