Replaces
Part Details
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. I am Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com, the right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front wheel bearings on this 1996 Ford Ranger. This vehicle is rear wheel drive, tool drive in the rear. This procedure, there may be some variations by application but this procedure is basically the same for any vehicle that's rear wheel drive and has roller bearings in the front. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, half inch 15 millimeter, 19 millimeter and 27 millimeter sockets that will vary by vehicle. A breaker bar or pipe for added leverage if you needed it, large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pliers, hammer, a flat tip or round impact tool to remove the bearing races, race installation tools or large sockets. You need sockets that are just slightly smaller than the races to drive them in, and a piece of two by six or bigger to work on if you don't have a good bench, wheel bearing grease and a torque wrench. Okay. Start out, there's a little slot in the cover. Take a screwdriver. Pry that off. Okay, now your wheel is held in by 19 millimeter bolts. If you don't have air tools, start on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, and then raise the vehicle. I'm going to use an impact wrench to remove. Fast forward here. As we remove the lug nuts and then remove the wheel and tire. Got the wheel off. Look and see our breaks actually are in decent shape on this vehicle. One things you do is on the rotors, just run the back of your fingernail up and down both the outside and the inside. Make sure you don't feel any large grooves and then you can see the pads.
I've still got probably 10, 20,000 miles on them, depending on how you use your brakes but we'll show you how to remove it and re-install the brakes anyways. Next thing you want to do is take your calipers off, which is these two bolts here. On this vehicle, these bolts are half inch. These might have been replaced. Not sure but yours could vary in size. They should come off pretty easy. Do a little fast forward again as we finish removing those two bolts. Okay, what you can do to take these off is take a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry out on caliper, that loosens it up. Okay. Caliper coming up right here and your brake pads just came right out and this one pulls out the back. I'm going to clap a little dust off them. You can see they are in pretty good shape. This groove right here is an indicator, once that groove disappears, that's when you know they needs to be replaced. Next thing you want do to is, if your rotor has a lot of wear on it or is in exceptionally bad shape, you'll want to replace that. I'll show you how to replace the rotor. On the back side here again, you want to remove two larger bolts here and up here. These bolts are 15 millimeter. I'm going to use a piece of pipe to put the pipe onto my ratchet and pull for some extra leverage. Get that top bolt, I turn the steering back a little bit. That clears the weight of the socket to hit on your lever bolt. Fast forward again here. Again, use the pipe, put it on the wrench. Also, if you have a breaker bar, that would work as well. Then, pull the bolts the rest of the way out and then the caliper bracket comes off.
With a regular screwdriver, you're going to pop this cap off, should come off easy maybe, you need to use a hammer or something. This grease cap. Side here, you want to use pliers to remove this cotter pin and then this cap comes off and then there's a nut underneath there. Okay, those pliers. Bring this down. Sometimes, the easiest thing to do is just pull. Break that off and then the pin comes right up and out and then that comes off. This nut is 27 millimeters and on this truck, comes right off by hand. That's not unusual. These are not supposed to be very tight at all. Take that nut off of there. Once that nuts off, you can just give a little pull on the disk and you'll see the washer and bearing come out. You can actually see the washer and the bearings come out. Caliper back there. That whole rotor comes out. See, on here, there's a seal. There's a seal here, so you want to get a screwdriver or some other type of tool right underneath there and pry that up. Okay, now that the seal's out, there's your inner bearing. Okay, so this here is your bearing race, okay, and you also have a race on the front part. What you want to do is you need a tool like this, an impact tool and you can scrape away some of this grease so that you can see the rim. If you look, my tool and scrape the hub and then it stops on that race. Okay, so once you do that race, you want to drive that race out of the hub.
Okay, a tool with the nice flat end. Okay, I'm going to speed it up here a little bit. Notice that I just use a couple taps in each location and I have to go back and forth. I tap on one side of the race and then I'll tap on the other side and then go over 90 degrees and just try and evenly drive it out of your rotor or drum or hub. Okay. There's your outer race out. There's that race, basically just a cup that the bearing runs in. Now, turn over rotor or your drum, actually just take a rag and d clean out a little bit, get some of the grease out so you can get at that outer race. Again, here, I'm trying to evenly drive that race out of the back side and doing that by just changing position often and not ever really hitting it too hard, just hard enough to get that race out of there. It will vary. Some vehicles, if that race has been there a whole long time and it has been corroded or rusted, you may have to try harder to get them out. Okay. There's the race for our inner bearing. Okay, wind this video there. We've gotten the rotor off and all the bearings, the race is out. Check out part two to see how you reinstall them.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
This is part two of the two part series replacing the front wheel bearings on this '96 Ford Ranger with two wheel drive. As I said in the first one, this procedure is generally the same for most vehicles that have the roller bearings in the front. Another quick look at the tools you'll need. The sizes on this list are for the Ranger and so if you're using this video to guide you in a different type of vehicle, then probably some of the sizes, as far as the sockets and things, will be different.
In part one of this video we took care of removing the brakes and the rotor and we also had removed the races, the rear seal on the races and now we're going to pick up with reassembling the rotors and reinstalling everything. Now, we're going to clear this grease. So, I'm going to take our new bearing race, and the thicker end goes inside. This socket was just a tiny bit smaller than the race itself. Then put down there, this size is a little lower so when I first tap it, I'm going to tap it and get that side started. Just kind of check, and make sure it's going down there pretty cleanly. That's nice and solid. Just give it a couple of taps and make sure it's in there correctly. Make sure the line all the way around is nice and even and it's in there all the way. Take a nice clean paper towel, put it in, then wipe this out. You don't have to get every little speck of grease. Just make sure there's no dirt or anything in there. Then, the thicker side goes down in at first. I do have the proper bearing installation tool, the race installing tool. What you can see me do here is, I put the race down in there. I'm just giving it a couple of taps. I just want to make sure that it's going in nice and straight. Then once I'm confident that it's going in properly. I hit it harder and you do need some type of metal tool that's slightly smaller than the bearing race. You cannot do this with a wood block or anything like that but a very large socket would work just like on the front side. As I said I do happen to have the correct tools to put that in. Even after inspecting it and being confident that it's in, I'll give it a couple of more good taps to make sure.
Now take some good quality bearing grease and put it right in. You don't want to get too much on the race surface. We'll put it kind of in the middle of hub and kind of clear off the race surface with my finger. Now, for the bearing, I'll just take it, scrape it off into this channel here, and press it in. The same thing with the front side, press it in to that crack. Get it on the roller surfaces, again, not a ton here. You don't want it all thick and globby. You just kind of want to coat them, okay and then the same thing on its inside surface. Take any out that's extra. I'll just leave a film. So you can see here on the race surface itself, I'm just leaving a film. Okay, and then just drop the bearing in and again make sure on the inside of this surface, basically just a film as well. You may want to put your seal in. Put that down. Put a piece of paper towel over it, so no dirt gets down there. Then a piece of wood or something will do the same trick. There you go. Let's turn this back over. Take some grease and pack it in on the inside here. Then put a film again, just a film on the bearing race there.
So, we've got our outer bearing, with grease in the crevices. Then coated the roller bearing side Put our rotor over on. Insert the bearing. If you like, put a little bit of grease, stuff it in there again, over all and again pull out the excess. Put our washer on. Put that right back on. Now, what we're going to do, is we're going to tighten it. We're going to roll the rotor a little bit, and keep tightening it until it's pretty well seated. Just make sure that you kind of squish the grease out of the way and the bearing is going to get a good seat. Now, we're going to back it off, and then we're going to pull it probably to about 3 or 4 foot-pounds, not very tight at all. You may want to put this back on with our cotter pin down through.
Use a nice clean paper towel first. Make sure the front and back surfaces of the rotors are clear of grease. Now, use some minerals spirits or brake parts cleaner and really clean the rotor surface. Make sure there's no grease at all.
On this bracket, you want to make sure these are nice and free. If they're not, you can actually just pull them out, clean them and grease them and put them back in. We'll just speed up here as we put that bracket back on and use a two larger 15 millimeter bolts to start it. Tighten these bolts to 80 foot-pounds. Now, you want to push these pistons back into the caliper so take your old pad and just kind of throw in there like that. Use a large C-clamp. The pad takes care of making sure the pressure is on both of the pistons pushing them back in as far as they'll go. So, again, our pads are in fine shape so we'll put the old ones back in, something like that. Bring your caliper down. Now to push in on your slide bolts here with the caliper placed, get your bolts and twist and slide a little bit. Get your bolts started. These bolts don't have to be too tight. They really just hold things in place. The correct torque is probably about 12 to 15 foot pounds. I'm just going to tighten them firm with the smaller wrench.
Put the tire back on. I'm going to thread the lug nuts on by hand just to make sure that they don't cross thread. Then I'm going to tighten them preliminarily with my impact wrench. The tire is on and preliminarily tightened. You want to just take it and kind of shake it and look for any play in that bearing at all. You shouldn't see any. If you see a little play, then you'll want to tighten up your nut a little more. It looks good there. Just put our dust cap back in place. Now, we're going to torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds, each, and then we'll put our center cap back on. Before road testing, make sure your brakes are working properly. Pump them up a bunch a of times to reset the pistons in the calipers and then do test stops from 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour before your road test.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
