2009 Mercury Mountaineer Rear Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA10950

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In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes. This is a 2006 Ford Explorer and I hope you like this video.

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Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 10-19mm sockets, ratchet, breaker bar, large flat blade screwdriver, hammer, wire brush, paper towels, brake cleaner, brake grease, large c-clamp, torque wrench, jack, jack stands

With the vehicle on the ground, 19 millimeter socket or your tire iron and loosen up your lug nuts. Raise and support the vehicle. You can use a jack and jack stands. We are using a lift. Remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and remove the wheel and tire.

Use a large screwdriver, insert it here, and pry out to push the piston back into caliper. This'll help you get it apart easier. There's two 10 millimeter bolts to remove: one down here and one up here. Use a wrench or socket and ratchet to remove those. Once those bolts are out, use your wrench or your screwdriver and pry the caliper out. Set these bolts aside and then the outer pad, you have to push it out and then pry up. I'm pushing this way and then prying up and the pad comes out and the inner pad just pulls right out. You can either secure your caliper with a bungee or just make sure that you don't stress the brake hose.

Remove the disc. It should just pull off. There’s a lot of corrosion, so we're expecting a little bit of a fight. I'll put a lug nut on just to make sure it doesn't fly too far. If you're going to reuse your disc, you don't want to hit it with a hammer. We're going to be replacing this one, so we're not that worried about it.

You've got your original brake shoes and new ones from 1A Auto—they're all the same. They’re going to install exactly the same. If you're inspecting your old ones, this little mark here is a wear mark, so if it's gone, as it is on these pads, you know you need to replace your pad. See the new ones, nice large wear mark, so you know that they're in good shape. Rotors here: the original one and new one from 1A Auto. It’s exactly the same, has the provision on the back for the emergency brake, and will install just like the original. We're going to just preliminarily install our rotor.

Okay, and then we want to adjust our brake shoes so that there's some tension between the brake shoes and the rotor. Right now, it's very loose. So the best way to adjust is just use something, push up on the spring a little bit, and then you can just adjust out. Make sure as you turn it that you're expanding the gap between here and the adjuster shoe. You can feel a little bit of tension between the shoe and the disc, then I'll just do it a little bit more.

Okay, good tension, not too much movement, and now it's a little difficult to pull off, so I know I have the tension right. Brake parts cleaner clean off the surface of the shoes. Then the same thing, brake parts cleaner, clean out the surface of the rotor and install the rotor. Clean the rotor surface and the backside.

Use a wire brush and clean your slides here. If your car does have a lot of rust, you may want to pull these off and chip away at the cast iron underneath. A lot of times, what happens on these vehicles is that they rust. These expand and may cause binding in the brake shoes. If they don't look clean or if they look bowed out at all, you'll want to take them apart and make sure there's no rust built up underneath.

Use some silicone brake grease and grease these slides on the top and bottom. You want to reset the piston into your caliper so put your old shoe back in. This gives you a better point to press on. Big c-clamp and push it all the way back in. And you want to make sure that your bolt slides are in good shape and free and as long as they are you can put them back together. If not, you can pull them right out, clean them up, and use some silicone brake grease and reassemble them. We put some grease on the back of our pads, put the inner one in first and now push it into place. And then the outer one slides down and on. I need to pull those out just a little bit.

Make sure your bolt slides are all the way out, they'll get hung up otherwise. Put the top into place and put it down on and put your bolts back in. Tighten the caliper bolts to 24 foot-pounds. Reinstall your wheel and tire. Put the vehicle back on the ground, you want to tighten your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. Any time you work on your brakes, before you go out and test drive just pump them a few times, make sure you have a nice firm pedal before testing.

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