Replaces
Part Details
The Monro-Matic Plus® shock absorbers are nitrogen gas charged and feature velocity sensitive valving and all weather fluid, which offers trucks improved comfort at an economical price.
The result: enhanced control with uncompromised ride comfort.
* On non-dust shield units only.
Item Condition:
New
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to say you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to replace the rear shocks on this 98 Ford Explorer. This procedure is basically the same for any 95 to 2000 Explorer. You'll need penetrating oil, 13mm socket and ratchet, 15mm wrench, an adjustable wrench or vice grips.
The bottom of these front shocks are pretty easy, you can see them right here. These are 13mm bolts. I'm going to cheat a little bit and use my air ratchet. You can see here, right below the axle, I'm going to get a 13mm wrench right on there to hold them. In the wheel well you can see, here's the top of our shock. I've already sprayed it with a whole bunch of penetrating oil. What I'm using here is the 15mm wrench, put that on there first. This is just an adjustable wrench, it goes on the top shaft of the shock. Make sure it's nice and tight on there. If you're lucky, they come apart really easy like this. Sometimes you can start getting it apart and it will actually bind up and you'll have to cut it. This one looks like it's going to come apart pretty easy though. You might want to soak these overnight with penetrating oil so it will make it that much easier.
What I've run into here is the last bit of this is difficult and my wrench is not holding on. I'm going to use these vice grips and lock them on. Try and get this off the rest of the way. Okay, you can pull your shock down and out. Compare the old shock with the new shock. The important thing is they basically have the same length, which they do. You want to take, put a washer down and then you want to put this grommet on with the step side up. You can see here put the shock in from the bottom, pull it through, and you want your grommet with the step side down. There is a hole in the frame where those grommets kind of meet. Then you put your big washer on and then this bolt.
Basically, you're going to, just like on the other one, you're going to grab onto that and tighten that bolt up as far as it goes. Before you tighten that up to, it's important that you have the bottom angled so it's going to go into the control arm best. We'll hook the wrench on again. Underneath you can see, I've put a jack underneath the control arm and I'm going to lift it up, basically until you can see the shock come through. Connect the hardware to the shock. Go back to my impact wrench here. Hold on to the loose end with my regular wrench. Check those by hand, make sure they're really on. Good. Then we can let this down. We can do the other side and we're all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video we're going to be working with our 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0-liter four wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your front shock absorber. We're working on the passenger side, but this process will be exactly the same on the driver side.
If you like this video, please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this truck, as well as many other makes and models. If you need these parts for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: flat blade screwdriver, wheel lock key, 10-19mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, 10-19mm wrench, hammer, breaker bar, torque wrench, jack and jack stands
Using a taped flat blade screwdriver, locate the relief cuts in the hubcap. Stick the screwdriver in, and pry out to release it from the wheel. This particular truck has a wheel lock on it, so we'll need the wheel lock key in order to remove it. Otherwise, the rest of the nuts come off with a 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar. Simply crack them loose for now. Then raise and support your vehicle, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel from the vehicle.
With the wheel and tire removed, you can fold up the skirt on the inside of the inner wheel well and see the 14 millimeter nut, as well as down here on the cap of the shock is a 16. Now, that can be pretty tight, so you may need to use a hammer to tap the wrench onto those flats. Just tap the wrench into place. You'll need to pair up a 14 and a slightly larger wrench for some extra leverage. Put the boxed end over the stud, and break the nut loose. Once the nut has been broken loose, if you have a ratcheting wrench, now is a great time to utilize that to finish removing the nut. Otherwise, you can remove it manually with a regular wrench. Once you've removed the nut from the top of the shock, you'll also need to remove the washer and the top bushing. Remove your wrench, and this should be even easier if you're replacing a shock that's already failed. You pull down and compress the shock. Once the stud comes out of the opening, go ahead and place it off to the side.
Place a 10 millimeter wrench over the bolt on the top side of the lower control arm and loosen up the 13 millimeter on the bottom. Remove the bolt from the top, and repeat this process with the opposite bolt. Move the top of the shock. Release the bottom. Slide the shock out of the upper control arm. You may have to compress it a little to help get it out, or you may just want to drop it out of the bottom, whichever is easiest.
Here we have our old shock that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts have the same height, diameter, the same bar pin at the bottom where it will bolt on to our lower control arm with a nice new bushing as well as the same cap on the top of the shock to hold while we tighten up the stud here. It comes with a nice new set of top bushings and washers, one for below the bracket, and one for above, as well as a new nut, and a new set of nuts and bolts for the bottom. What your shock absorber does is control the up-and-down travel of your vehicle. Bad shocks will make the ride feel harsh or bouncy because it's not controlling the rate at which the suspension travels as well as the number of times the suspension can travel up and down.
If your vehicle has a poor ride quality, is harsh or bouncing when hitting bumps, a new set of shocks from 1A Auto will go in direct fit just like your original equipment, get your vehicle writing nice and smooth, and fix you up right. Install your washer and bushing onto the stud of the shock. Set it up into the control arm. Through the opening in the shock bracket, place the bottom over its holes, set the top bushing and washer over the stud, and tighten up the nut at the top, a few threads by hand. Install the 10 millimeter bolt for the base of the shock, start the 13 millimeter nut on the bottom. Tighten up the nuts and bolts with a 10 millimeter wrench on the bolt head and a 13 millimeter socket ratchet and extension at the bottom. Once you've tightened one bolt down, go ahead and do the other. Hold the top nut of the shock in place with your 16, and tighten down the top with a 14 millimeter.
Reinstall the wheel and tire and start your lug nuts by hand. That's to 100 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Reinstall your center cap, and you're good to go.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
