Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll be showing you how to replace the tie rod on this 2001 Ford Taurus. It is the same procedure for any 1996 to 2007 Taurus. Tools you'll need: 18 mm socket and ratchet as well as a 19 mm socket or your lug wrench to get the wheel off, adjustable wrenches, needle-nose pliers, vice grips, some penetrating oil probably, a tie rod puller tool or a tie rod fork and hammer or actually you can use a hammer to get the tie rod out just be careful not to mushroom the end, 8 mm wrench and a grease gun with grease.
When your car goes for a State inspection a lot of times you'll see them jack the front of your car up and move the wheel around. What they're looking for is loose front-end parts, and basically if you shake the wheel- if you take the wheel on the top and bottom and go up and down and you can feel a clunking that's an indication of your upper or lower ball joint. If you can take the wheel on the sides and go back and forth that's an indication of your tie rod. If it actually does both then you need to figure out if you can take it and in any way shake it and you're feeling some looseness then that can be an indicator that your hub is loose. It also can be an indicator that your ball joints and your tie rods could be loose.
This is your tie rod end right here, and when you move the wheel back and forth if you look very closely you'll see that there's movement in relation to the steering knuckle and the tie rod. Using a 19 mm socket or your lug wrench, remove the tire. I am going to pull out the cotter pin. Sometimes it's easier to break it right off with a pair of pliers. It is pretty obvious why this tie rod failed. This is the grease zerk, and it's rusted and dry, which means it doesn't look like this was ever serviced. You want to make sure on your car you are always taking it to get oil changes and making sure that they're greasing things at the same time. I'm going to remove this 18 mm nut. You want to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle, and there is right ways and there is wrong ways. One of the right ways is with this tool, which is a tie rod puller tool. It goes right on there and then pushes it out. You could use a fork, and then basically a hammer and you drive this fork right in between and it pops it out. You can, but you need to be very careful, you could use a hammer and a tool and beat the tie rod up and out like that. What you have to be careful of is that you don't mushroom the end of the tie rod so it doesn't go through the steering knuckle cleanly. If you do it this way what you might want to do is put a bolt on the end here, put your bolt back on the end and then hit it using that bolt so that you hit the bolt and you don't ruin the tie rod.
What I'm going to do is use this tool and mine happens to be a 19 mm here. It just kind of came right out. Interesting. As you can see I've got two adjustable wrenches on here. I've got one on the tie rod itself and then one on the nut back here and I'm just going to pull on the nut one to loosen it up. I'm going to loosen it up just a half a turn. I'm gonna lift this up and out I'm going to twist off the tie rod end. Here is my old tie rod, my new tie rod. I'm going to compare them. Lengthwise they're the same so we know that if we mount the new tie rod the same exact way we should have a good preliminary alignment. A new tie rod comes with a new nut as well. The new nut is basically the same width as the old one. What I'm going to do is take a piece of tape and I'm going to put it onto the shaft to mark where my old one is. I'm going to use a pair of vice grips to lock onto the shaft and see if we can get this bolt off. If necessary you want to use a bit of penetrating oil to see if you can't loosen it up. I've got my vice grips on here and after soaking this with a bunch of penetrating oil and letting it sit for a while I'm able to undo the nut here.
After looking at them right side by side the new nut is just slightly thinner than the old one. What we'll do is we'll just leave one thread between where the new one goes on and the tape just to compensate for that. That should give us a good preliminary alignment. After you do a repair like this you really should go and get the car aligned. Now with your ball joint take the nut off and move that plastic cap that is just protecting the rubber boot. Go slowly until it's up to the nut. Take our vice grips off here and install it. Put the nut on here. Take our two big wrenches again here and make sure that nut is nice and tight up against our tie rod end.
Here we use our torque wrench and you want to torque this bolt between 35 and 40 foot pounds, once it clicks. Then we'll check the hole where you want to put the cotter pin through and if you need to you just tighten it up a little bit more so you can get that cotter pin through there. Now we'll put the new cotter pin in, bend it down and around. Bend that around and we'll put this grease fitting in. Just use our pliers and we'll tighten that up with the proper 8 mm wrench. Now we've got our grease gun, pop it on there. Basically, pump some grease into it, and now you can see the grease actually coming up and around the edge there. That's enough. That's good and full of grease. We will actually check the grease on the other side and put the wheel back on and we'll be all set.
I'm going to just fast forward putting the wheel back on. What you want to do is put on all the lug nuts by hand. Then I just tighten them up kind of preliminarily with my gun and then on the ground torque them to 90 to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern as you tighten.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money preparing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my twenty plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to replace the front strut on this 2001 Ford Taurus and process is pretty much the same for any '96 to '07 Taurus. Tools you'll need are not all that uncommon, Jack and Jack stands, 10 to 18 millimeter wrenches, and 10 to 21 millimeter sockets with ratchets and extensions, and a large hammer. Once you know how to do it, it's not that difficult of a job. It does require some strengths in spots, probably not the everyday do it yourself for job, but not that complicated nonetheless.
We'll start by removing the wheel. If you have benefit the air tools, that's great, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, what you want to do is first loosen your lug knots while the wheel is still on the ground, then raise the car, and take the lug nuts the rest of the way off. Use penetrating oil to spray the upper stabilizer bolt, and then the large bolt that pinches the strut in the steering knuckle. Although soak, there's a 10 millimeter bolt right here that you can remove, it holds the break line bracket. We'll kind of speed through that, then you pull that break line bracket out, and then you slide the bracket that has the ABS sensor up, and pull that clip off. The upper stabilizer bolts, you'll need an 18 millimeter wrench and then you can see I've got a 10 millimeter wrench on there, in case I need to hold that shaft still, and it turns out that this actually comes apart without even having to hold that in place.
You pull that link out and then I'm just putting the bolt back on for safe keeping, and now the bolt that holds the lower end of the strut. It's an 18 millimeter wrench that I'm going to use to hold it. This is a 21 millimeter. I'm just taking them, pull the rest way off by hand and then I accidentally dropped it actually. A small hammer or a hammer, and just drive that bolt out. You have to drive it all the way out to that bolt actually does hold on to the strut, and once you get it out, you can usually pull it out right by hand. Then you need a good size hammer, and you just hit the top of the steering knuckle. If you look real close you can basically see the disc sliding down off of the strut, and we'll speed it up a little bit here. Until, and then separate the steering knuckle and the strut. Remove these three 13 millimeter bolts and the one here. You pull the strut down, pull the top out, and just got to make sure, the stuff tries to get caught on it, the stabilizer and the wires trying to get caught. Here, left side is the new strut from 1A Auto. You can see the one from 1A Auto is all the same, the spring is already part of it so you don't have to worry about compressing a spring. The new strut just goes right in.
The old strut is actually in fine shape on this car so I am going to reinstall that. Just want to show you that the new strut from 1A Auto is going to bolt right in. We'll get to put it back in here. You want the flat part of this plate towards the outside of the car, and now you'll see all these brackets towards the inside of the car, feed it down into the wiring a little bit. Get it up and in. Move this stuff out a little bit. Feed it in front of the axle. You should have it there. You get one there, hold a bit. The free bolt started. Torque these to 35 foot pounds each. Now you want to pull these, your break line and your ABS sensor wire. You push your suspension down and pull your strut and go over. It's in.
Make sure your bracket is going down into the slot, in the steering knuckle here. Push it then, and just again make sure that it gets wind up with that slot. As long as you have that bracket lined up into the slot, in the steering knuckle, then start jacking it up then it goes together. It goes right on and you want to put the rest in, this bolt in, and once that bolt goes through, you're all set. Now, here I'm going to put the knot on the other side of that and that bolt you want to tighten up to a hundred foot pounds of torque. We want the tension back off, make sure you get this on the backside of the truck. Put your sway bar link back in, put this clip back on. Be careful of your fingers. You slide this down over, and now my backside, this little tab goes right through the hole in this clip in the strut, and holds everything together, and then the bolt, they're bolted together.
We'll fast forward through tightening that up. There's no specific torque. Just make that bolt tight. Here, we use a little tapping of the hammer. It doesn't usually take much to get that stabilizer link through the strut. Put the bolt on, and then use your 18 millimeter wrench and possibly your 10 millimeter and get that link nice and tight again, no specific torque specification. Just get it good and tight. You just have to take off a little bit with the impact line. With the tire around, you want to tighten up the wall knots anywhere from 75 to 100-foot pounds, and use the star pattern, so one, two, cross, cross, cross.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393 with the company that serve you on the internet and in person.
