Replaces
10 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$138.95
12 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$184.95
10 Piece Suspension Kit
$184.95
14 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$199.95
16 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit
$284.95
14 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$316.95
16 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit
$394.95
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper control arm on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper control arm from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 15mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, 15mm and 21mm wrenches, a hammer, torque wrench, pliers, and jack and jack stands.
Start out by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, removed the lug nuts, and removed the wheel and tire.
Next, spray some penetrating oil on this 15mm bolt and then remove it using a 15mm socket and ratchet and a 15mm wrench. Now, remove this clip here. Ours is broken, so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you would just pry the clip open with a flat blade screwdriver. Then, just pry this clip open and pull the harness free. You just use a flat blade screwdriver. Push in on the tab and it'll open up. Hit the upper control arm with a hammer to break it free. Hit it up and off the ball joint. Now, you want to secure your wheel knuckle. We're just going to use some wire ties to secure it. You could also use string or wire. You just want to make sure it's not going to move around too much.
Next, you want to remove these two 21mm bolts at the top of the control arm. Start off using a 21mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage. Just break both bolts free. Now we'll fast forward as Mike removes those bolts.You won't be able to remove them entirely, but you only need to remove them so that the bolt is not sticking out past the bushing. Sometimes, the bolts may get jammed and not move as far as you need them to. Just use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. You want to hit just underneath the upper control arm. The,n you can slide down the front and then remove that bolt the rest of the way by hand. Then angle it and remove the other bolt by hand. If it's jammed in there, you only really need one out. You can angle it and pull it out. Then just use a hammer to remove that other bolt.
As you can see, this upper control arm is in bad shape. You shouldn't have that much play. Now, just pry this clip out using a small flat blade screwdriver. On the right is the old upper control arm.
On the left is the new one from 1AAuto. You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Push the back bolt in first and angle it into place. Tip the front of the upper control arm down and put the other bolt in. Then, angle it up into place. Then, just start both of those bolts in by hand until it secures the upper control arm into place. To start off, this bolt at the front, you won't be able to actually get the wrench onto it so just use a pair of pliers to tighten it in a little bit until you can get the wrench on it. We'll just fast forward as Mike tightens both of those 21mm bolts up. You're only really tightening these preliminarily.
Remove whatever you used to secure your wheel knuckle. Using a hammer, knock the upper control arm back down onto the ball joint and replace that 15mm bolt and the nut. Then just tighten it up and torque it to 15 foot-pounds. Push your clip into your new upper control arm. Re-clip the harness into it. Re-clip the harness into the clip on the wheel knuckle. Again, since ours is broken, we're just going to use a wire tie.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Have your vehicle back down on the ground with all the weight back on the suspension. Now you tighten up the two bolts that hold the control arm in and you want to tighten them to about roughly a hundred foot-
pounds. I'm pulling them as tight as I can with that wrench. Then, the last thing you want to do is you do want to have your alignment checked and fixed after you perform this repair.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an upper ball joint on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL and we show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new upper ball joint from 1AAuto.com; flat blade screwdriver; 10, 15, and 19 millimeter socket and ratchet; 15 millimeter wrench; hammer; punch; snap ring pliers, depending on the condition of your old ring around your ball joint; razor; ball joint press; jack and jack stands; and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands and remove the lug nuts that way. We have air tools so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands to remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel and tire.
Using a pry bar or a large flat blade screwdriver, just insert it in between the axle and the axle housing and just hammer it to separate the axle. Now, remove this clip here, and ours is broken so we're just going to use some wire cutters to remove the wire tie, but normally you just pry the clip open with the flat blade screwdriver. There's a rotating ring that holds the ball joint in. You want to use a punch and a hammer and you can see we do it before we release the upper control arm. You want to get that retaining ring out. Next, remove these two 10 millimeter bolts. We'll fast forward as Mike does that. Just pull the wheel knuckle forward and just make sure your axle pulls free and then support your wheel knuckle with wire ties or string just so that it's not being supported by those harnesses. We're just going to cut off this boot around the ball joint.
With this little tool, we'll be able to press on the hard part of the ball joint and we actually have the augment ours with another little attachment. Then this cup goes around the outside of the ball joint there. Put the press on here. Now, the press will be pushing around the edge of the ball joint and down into the cup and the cup is holding. It's not hitting the ball joint. It's holding around the steering knuckle. It's very important that you line everything up straight. Go nice and slow. You can see the ball joint has been pushed down and out.
Take your new ball joint and push it up into place. Push that up in. You need a sleeve to go up on top and this can just contact right against the bottom of your ball joint. We use the press to push the ball joint up and in and sometimes it helps to just use a hammer. You put a lot of pressure on with the press then use the hammer to get the ball joint, and seed it all the way in. If your old ring is still in good condition, just hit it back into place. Otherwise, use snap ring pliers and put the new snap ring into place.
Push the wheel knuckle back and then just push your upper control arm down on to the ball joint and hammer it down the rest of the way and just slide that bolt through. Replace the nut and make sure you remove your wire ties or string. Push the axle back into place. We'll fast forward as Mike tightens this up. Torque this to 50 foot-pounds. Twist the grease fitting into place and tighten it up with a 10 millimeter wrench. If you have a grease gun, just top it off. Then, just put the bolts back into place and re-clip your harness. Our clip is broken so we're just going to use a wire tie and then just tighten up those two 10 millimeter bolts.
Replace your wheel and replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle, tighten the rest of the way and torque each of them to a hundred foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Once you have them torqued, replace you cap then you should be all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is a similar procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, 10mm, 22mm and 26mm wrenches, flat blade screwdriver, tape measure, pliers, hammer, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start by removing your wheel and tire. Pry off the cap first. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle on jack stands, and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. We have air tools, so we put the vehicle up on jack and jack stands, remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel and tire.
Start off by just spraying both ends of your outer rod with some penetrating oil. This will just help to remove those nuts. Then you want to measure from the end of the first nut on the outer tie rod to the center of this nut. You can see we actually marked on the outer tie rod where you should measure to. You want to make sure when you put your new outer tie rod on that it's the same distance.
Put a 26mm wrench on the larger nut and a 22mm wrench on the smaller nut. Just break that smaller one free. Now, using a pair of pliers, just straighten out this cotter pin. Once it's straightened out, try to hit it through or pull it through. If it doesn't move, then you can just break off this end. You just move each tab up and down until it breaks off. After you've done that, you can again try pulling it from the other side. If that doesn't work, you can just use a hammer and a punch.
Using a 21mm socket, just remove that nut. Hit the wheel knuckle with a hammer. That will just break that free. Then you can just twist your outer tie rod off. Now, just remove that nut on the outer tie rod the rest of the way.
I can see that my bolt was on to here, so I'm just going to make a mark on the new one to here. That's where I'm going to put my bolt onto, just a preliminary alignment. Twist the outer tie rod into place. Make sure that rubber boot is back on there. Then push the outer tie rod up into the wheel knuckle.
Just measure and make sure it's the same distance. If it is, you're all set. If not, you want to just adjust the nuts on the end of the outer tie rod. Since it is, we're just going to replace this nut and tighten it up. You can see we're using a 10mm wrench to just hold the stud steady. Now just tighten up these two nuts.
Replace your wheel. Replace the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily. Lower the vehicle. Tighten them the rest of the way, and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
