2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer LTZ Front 6 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA59145

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front wheel bearing hub on this 2004 Trailblazer. This is the same for many 02' to 09' Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada, Rainier, Saab 9-7X, as well as Isuzu Ascenders. Tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, a breaker bar or pipe, if you need some extra leverage. I actually didn't need the extra leverage on this vehicle, but I do show you how to use it, flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, a large c-clamp to reset the pistons in the caliper, torque wrench, 35-millimeter socket, which is something that most toolboxes don't have, but you do need that 35-millimeter socket and then jack and jack stands.

Start by prying your cap off. That's a 19 millimeter and if you don't have air tools, you want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nut, then raise it, port it with jack stands and then remove the wheel and the tire. I'll just fast forward taking off the rest of those lug nuts and then removing the wheel and tire.

Now either pull or using the steering wheel, turn your wheels, so you have easy access to the back of the brake calipers. Now, we're going to check the condition of the brakes. Now, I spin this, you'll the rotor move. Okay. Then right to the right there, there's actually your pad. As you can see, there's not that much life left and it's not looking well on the outside either. We're going to remove the caliper, which is removing a bolt up here and a bolt down here and then after that, we're going to remove the caliper bracket, which is two large bolts, 18 millimeter one here and one up here.

The bolts on the caliper, relatively easy, 13 millimeter, use a small wrench. We'll just speed it up here as I remove those two bolts. Okay, the caliper comes right off. You can put that over here. Okay. These are 18-millimeter bolts for the caliper bracket. You're going to want a breaker bar, which is a bar to give you extra leverage. Okay. As you can see, it actually come apart pretty easy. If you don't have a breaker bar like this, you just have a ratchet, you can put a piece of pipe on to give you extra leverage and pull it easy on the pipe and it should have come loose.

When you're all the way up, you can just take your pads off. Take your screwdriver, which should pretty easily pry out. All right. You can see this one. That little line down the middle is the wear and tear. It's actually just about at the end of its life.

We'll fast forward again as we remove those two 18-millimeter bolts that hold that caliper bracket. Okay, that comes off. Then your discs should just come off. If your discs don't come off, there are threaded holes and you need to use some bolts. What you do is you put the bolts in there and the bolts crack against the hub to push them out. Okay. These rotors are pretty crusty looking so I am going to replace them using a 35-millimeter socket. If you don't have an impact wrench, what you'll need to do is, you'll do this at the beginning, you pull that cap off your wheel and then with the big breaker bar and a pipe, you'll loosen this hub nut. Because I have an impact wrench, I can do it this way.

When you're replacing the hub, you don't want to go just hammering away on the axle because you can damage your CV joint, but most of the time, if you just give this one good whack, you'll see that it's broken loose. Basically, just watch the relationship of your axle to your hub when you give it a good hit. Okay and it moved just fine. Just a note, I've yet to have a GM car, where just hitting it with the hammer once didn't break it free.

Right in behind there are three bolts, one here, one up there and then there's one around the back side as well, right down there. Now I get to those bolts. I'm going to take an 18-millimeter socket with a short extension. Okay, put it right on there. I'm going to use the poor man's method. I've got my ratchet and keep the pipe for leverage. Okay. Now I'm going to pull nice and easy and actually these come apart pretty nicely.

Now I'm going to speed up as I loosen the other two and remove those three bolts. Okay, your lead comes out. Okay, follow it around and we'll clip back here, push with the screwdriver, push on the other side, and push that out. Okay, and pry these right out. Now I'm going to really speed through here. All I'm going to do is follow the ABS lead up and pry out the connectors. One note is to check your new hub because that will tell you kind of how the connectors come apart, whether or not you need to pry them out of the frame or just open them up, so that you can put the new lead in.

This last connector with a tab right beside here, go in, lift up, and pull that off here. Okay, turn to the side, that out, off. All three of my bolts are off and my harness is disconnected. Just take a hammer. Okay. It all pops off. You need to get this metal shield off. Okay, get the metal shield off by using a combination of tap it off with a hammer and there's your hub. Take a wire brush here. Just clean off some of the scale. Okay, put that back on and a new hub from 1A Auto, exact same thing as the old one. Take the harness and put it back in place, work it onto the CV, push it on, take one of the bolts, put it through here, move the back end plate and start it into the hub. Grab the other two bolts.

I'm just going to speed it up as I reconnect that harness and route all the clips. It's very important to clip it back into place as it was originally, keeps the ABS harness from rubbing against anything and possibly damaging your ABS brakes.

Now we're going to put the torque on these three bolts to 90-foot pounds. I'll fast forward a little bit as I torque the other two bolts and again, I said I torqued them to 90-foot pounds. We're going to put our hub nut on and we're just going to ... we're not torquing it right now. We're just pulling the CV axle into the hub. Here, I'm going to fast forward through putting the brakes back together. If you'd like to see this in real time, just check out our video for the Trailblazer brakes and do please keep watching because I do go through torquing the center nut on the hub, as well as some other important information about what you need to do after you've had your brakes apart.

With the tire back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120-foot pounds, kind of just using a crossing pattern. Now here, I'm going to tighten that lug nut to 103-foot pounds. Very important after doing brake work, always pump your brakes many times and then before you do a road test, make sure the brakes hold the vehicle in gear and then do a stop from five miles an hour and ten miles per hour before hitting the brakes.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Please feel free to call us toll free, (888) 844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front hub on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. The items that you'll need for this is a new hub from 1AAuto.com, a 17mm, 18mm, 19mm and 35mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, 18mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer, and jack and jack stands.

Start off by prying off your hub cap. Then just loosen up this 35mm nut. Now loosen the lug nuts in a crossing pattern. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Once you've loosened them, just jack the vehicle up, and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull off.

Now, you want to remove these two 17mm bolts, and you can see Mike's using an 18mm wrench to hold the nut on the inside. That'll just make it easier to remove that bolt. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper. Then you can just set that aside.

Now pry out your brake pads. Now, you want to remove these two 18mm bolts. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does that, and you can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to help break those bolts free. Remove the bolts the rest of the way, and then the caliper bracket comes off. Now, you need to remove your rotor, and hopefully you can just use a hammer, tap on the rotor a little bit, and it will come off. Our vehicle has some corrosion, so we end up using the alternate method.

If you have trouble getting the rotor off, it actually has press holes. You would get a bolt that's the proper size, I believe this an M12 bolt, and you use two bolts, thread them into those holes, and as you tighten them up, they press against the hub and push the rotor off. Once you've removed the rotor, if you haven't already, remove the center hub nut the rest of the way. Give the axle a good firm hit with a hammer, and once you see it's moving, then you know it's free.

Next, you want to disconnect these clips along this harness. To do that, you just flip those open with a flat blade screwdriver, or you can just pry them out. First, pull the harness connection out from the car, and then push the tab and disconnect the harness. We'll just fast-forward as Mike pries out those clips. Just note, that we did just unclip the harness that is connected to the upper control arm and left it in place. Now, just remove these three 18mm bolts that hold in the hub.

First, we're just going to spray the other side with some penetrating oil to help remove them. We'll fast-forward as Mike removes these. It does help to turn the wheels so you have better access to whichever one you're working on at whatever time. Now, using a hammer, just hit the back of the hub to loosen it, and then just slide it off the axle, making sure your harness is pulled through. Then just hammer that backing plate off the hub and pull your harness up and out of the plate.

On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your backing plate and feed the harness of your new hub through it. Then put the backing plate into place on the wheel knuckle. You want to make sure that the harness is going up through that top part of the plate. Once you have that lined up, push the hub back onto the axle and into place.

Once it's in place take a bolt and just twist in to hold the plate and hub to the wheel knuckle. Then just replace the other two bolts, and tighten all three of them up. Now, torque each of these to 90 foot-pounds. We left some clips in the body of the car, so you just remove the ones you don't need from your new harness, and the ones you do need just leave on there and push into place on the wheel knuckle. We'll just fast-forward as Mike re-clips the harness all the way along.

Then reconnect the harness. You want to make sure these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub, and then you just slide your rotor back into place, and replace a lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket, and make sure they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then fit the bracket into place and then just start twisting your bolts by hand and then tighten them up. Torque each of these to 110 foot-pounds. Then just replace your brake pads, and if there's no grease on the ends, just apply some brake grease.

Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds. Replace the hub nut. Remove the lug nut that you put on there to hold the rotor in place.

Put your wheel in place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. If you're working with air tools, you can tighten up the center nut preliminarily or you can wait and do this on the ground. Now torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then torque the hub nut to 103 foot pounds. Then replace your hub cap.

After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front strut on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. We'll show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this include a new front strut from 1AAuto.com, 10mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm socket, a ratchet, piece of pipe for extra leverage, a 15mm and 18mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, torque wrench, hammer, jack and jack stands, pry bar, and a 4.5mm Allen wrench. We recommend that if you replace the strut on one side, that you do it on the other side as well.

Start off by prying off your hub cap, and then just loosen out this 35mm nut. Now, loosen the lug nuts in a crossing pattern. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Once you've loosened them, just jack the vehicle up, then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Now, the wheel will pull off.

Now, you want to remove these two 17mm bolts. You can see Mike is using an 18mm wrench to hold the nut on the inside. It will just make it easier to remove that bolt. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper, and then you can just set that aside. Now, pry out your brake pads. Now, you want to remove these two 18mm bolts. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does that. You can see, he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to help brake those bolts free. Once those are removed, the bracket will pull right off. If your rotor doesn't slide right off then you may just want to tap it with a hammer, turn it, and then hit it again with a hammer.

Right, so if you have trouble getting the rotor off, it actually has press holes. You would get a bolt that's the proper size. I believe this is an M12 bolt. Use two bolts, thread them into those holes. As you tighten them up, they press against the hub and push the rotor off.

To get your axle out, maybe use a pry bar or some other the long item. You will put it up, in, and put it on the back of the axle right where it connects to the transmission or the axle, I should say. Make sure you're hitting the metal and it comes right out.

If you want to do the driver's side, you'll need to remove these four 15mm bolts and pull this panel down in order to access it. Using a 15mm socket, ratchet, and wrench, just remove this bolt. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now, using a hammer, just hit the upper control line off the ball joint. Now, just pry open this clip and pull the harness free. You want to secure your caliper to somewhere out of the way, so we'll just wire-tie it right here on to the back end plate.

Now, you want to remove these 10mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now, just lift up on the upper control arm, pull this back, and make sure that the axle is loosened. Pull your axle the rest of the way out of the differential. You step around a little bit, and you can get it going up in. Just got to ankle it up, get it going up and in a little bit from the hub. Careful with all of your ABS wires, hoses and stuff.

Just spray this bolt right here on your sway bar link with some penetrating oil. Then, using a 15mm wrench and a 4.5mm Allen wrench (you can use some other wrench with some extra leverage on the Allen wrench), you want to just separate that nut and remove it. Next, you want loosen up these two 15 mm bolts. Just spray them with some penetrating oil. Then we'll just fast-forward as Mike loosens those up. Just push the wheel knuckle up, and then loosen those just so that they're finger tight and just a few threads on. That will hold the strut in place.

Then you want to remove this 18mm bolt right here. Using your socket, ratchet, and a piece of pipe just brake that free. Once you remove the nut, just tap out the bolt a little bit. You'll notice the brake lines in the way, so you just need to use a pry bar and pry that bolt out the rest of the way. Just lift up on the wheel knuckle, and then that will allow you to pull that out.

Spray some penetrating oil around the base of the strut, and then just hammer the wheel knuckle off with the strut. To keep the wheel knuckle from going all over the place, we're just going to wire tie it up. If you do this, you want to make sure that it's still kind of loose so you can still move the upper control arm up and down. Then remove those two 15mm nuts at the top of the strut, and just maneuver the strut down and out.

On the bottom is the old strut; above it is the new strut from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.

Feed your new strut up into place. Then once you get the studs through, just replace those two 15mm nuts to hold it in place. Place a jack underneath the lower control arm. I've also got the lift where you have jack stands next to the vehicle. Just line up the strut and jack up the control arm into the strut. We will fast-forward as Mike tightens up that bolt. Now, just torque this bolt to 90 foot-pounds. Tighten up those two 15mm nuts and torque them to 50 foot-pounds.

We'll fast-forward as Mike replaces the nut in the sway bar. Using his 4.5 mm Allen wrench and his wrench, he's going to tighten that back up. As you're tightening up that final bit, make sure you have a wrench between the Allen wrench and the sway bar so you can still remove the Allen wrench from that bolt. Then just clip those wire ties if you ended up using them. Be careful not to hit wires. I just set it right into the hub and pull it, staying up around, and get it all the way into the hub. Then pull on it and feed it into the axle. Careful with the seal. You want to put that in, just doing a kind of back up in place that you go. Do not overextend. Just put that in place and push your axle right in and make sure it's locked.

Now, replace your brake line bracket in the two 10mm bolts to hold it into place. You want to just use the upper control arm to hold the wheel knuckle in place while you're doing this. Re-clip this harness. Now, hammer your upper control arm back down into the old one. Replace the bolt and the nut and tighten them up. You want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub. Then you just slide your rotor back into place and replace the lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then fit the bracket into place. You can then just start twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up.

Now, torque these two bolts to 110 foot-pounds. Torque each of these to 110 foot-pounds and then just replace your brake pads. If there's no grease on the ends, just apply some brake grease. Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now, torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds.

Replace the hub nut. Remove the lug nut that you put on there to hold the rotor in place. Then put your wheel in place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Now, torque each of these to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then torque the hub nut to 103 foot-pounds. Then replace your hub cap.

After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms out. Then you want to do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and 10 miles per hour.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.