Replaces
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this helps, the video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this 2000 Buick LeSabre, pretty much the same as any 2000, 2005 Buick LeSabre and obviously we sell new hubs at 1AAuto.com.Tools you'll need are Jack and Jack stands, 34, 19, 15 and 13mm Sockets. You'll need Ratchets and Extensions and you'll also need a Breaker Bar and possibly a Pipe for some extra leverage on some of those bolts and a large Flat Blade Screwdriver, a Hammer and Torque Wrench. On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to use a 34mm Socket and a big Breaker Bar, probably the pipe. With your vehicle on the ground, loosen up this center knot. Loosen up here first. You want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm Socket with an Impact Wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire, and then just turn the suspension so that I can get a good look at the brakes. To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm Socket with a Ratchet and this should come apart with some force but it should come apart very easy.
I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually, the items that the calipers slide on as well so I'll show a little close up to you. These are slides taken apart. You want to note their condition. This probably should be just clean up and put a little grease on to them. I'll speed it up here again as I just remove, finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. With a large screwdriver, put it right in here and pry out and that actually forces the piston back into that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You could see, I use a screwdriver pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens up so I can get the caliper up and off and then I just hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Now, your brake pads very easily. Just pry out. Remove these two bolts here. I needed my Socket again and a Ratchet. Use a Breaker Bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start to get them loose. I'll fast forward here as I use the Ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both the bolts out. Now, your rotor comes right off. Here, I'm applying some penetrating oil to the center hub knot as well as the three knots that hold the hub to the steering knuckle. Here, I'm removing that nut with an Impact Wrench.
Again, if you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen up this knot when your tire is still on and the vehicle is on the ground. You want to make sure that your axle is free from your hub. You're going to give a one good hit with a hammer. You don't want to be on it continuously with a hammer because you could damage your CV joints but one good hit and just watch the axle in relation to the hub, if it moves then your axle is free and is no problem. Just give it a good wrap and just watch. Like I said, the axle in relation to the hub and it moved so it's nice and free. I can actually move it just with my thumb. Now, three bolts hold the hub to the steering knuckle. You could see one down there and one up in there. Generally, you want to use 3/8s drive tools because they're a little narrower and they can get in here better. There's the bolt here, there's one down here and then over on the other side, there is a bolt right down in here. This is your ABS lead, you want to use a screwdriver, pry this clip away. Pull that off and then just push up on this clip here and disconnect it. I'm going to fast forward here as I take and loosen up those three bolts and you should be able to get them with a good sized 3/8s Ratchet. You want to just keep applying even pressure. Don't jerk the wrench or anything. Apply even pressure and they'll come loose and what I'm doing is actually turning the steering knuckle back and forth so I can easily get to all three of the bolts. Once you get up to this point, you need to push. I've got pushing it with my thumb on the axle and then pulling the center wire out. You want to take this off and put right there.
New hub available on 1AAuto.com, you want to put in there. You want the sensor kind of towards the rear towards where it goes in and this goes on so that this tab is in this position over here. Put it on and again, just reach through with your thumb, push on the axle so that you could push your sensor connector through. Pull that connector through this bracket up and on. I'm going to get that up on here. Pull this connector; pull this back and in there. Kind of a matter is getting the grooves all lined up and in. Tug on your ABS sensor a little bit, make sure it's through cleanly. Push that on, the bolt. These ones' the easiest lugs that put it through and start it into the hub. I'm going to speed it up again as I start all three bolts in. You want to make sure you start them all in first, then usually tighten up the rear one until it snug and then you tighten up the other two until they're snug. The last step of tightening is to torque them. Make sure the leads through correctly. Put right on to that bracket and then plug it in. I'm going tighten these bolts to 60 foot pounds, starting with this rear one. I'm going to reinstall this hub knot just preliminarily. Rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide.
This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle and that bolt goes to the steering knuckle first, then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Now, start my upper one. I'll speed it up here as I just kind of preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now, we'll torque these to 80 foot pounds. Put it down and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit. Put your caliper down on, make that those aren't bunched up. Here are my sides, I cleaned them up, put a little light coated grease on them. That's a little one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little bit of grease on the inside, on the outside of it. Put our brake pads back, it just kind of slides right in, the support one. Now, push down in a little bit diagonally. Top one back in first, start it a little bit and our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just kind of preliminarily tighten those bolts. I'll torque these for about 50 foot pounds. Again, apologize for the low volume, 50 foot pounds is what you want to torque those to. Okay, speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just start the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with the Impact Wrench. Now, you want to torque the center nut to a 118 foot pounds. Torque your lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds using a start pattern. Okay, and we'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts. Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from five and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green, I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience, restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts for 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video. In this video, we're going to show you how to change the pads and routers on this '97 Cadillac Deville.
On this vehicle, the brakes are actually in good shape so we just show you how to take them apart and put them back together. You can order new routers and pads for 1A Auto, this is the same for '96 to '99 Deville. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15 and 19 mm sockets with ratchet and extension and you'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for extra leverage for a couple of bolts and also a large C-clamp. Use a screwdriver, I like to use a rag so I don't scratch the wheel or the center cap. Pry it underneath there. Your lug nuts are 19 mm, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts and then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Okay, now with your wheel turned, you can see right inside here, you can see that little hole in the brake pad that is exactly a wear indicator. It would indicate on this brake pad, you are in good shape and if you look at your outer pad, you can see that there's some still some pretty good like in it.
You want to make sure that you check both sides because sometimes you can have one side that's not worn and the other side can be more worn. Our brakes are fine, I've checked both sides but I am going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you how to do it. The next thing you want to do is remove these two bolts here, which releases your caliber. These two bolts are 15 mm. They should come apart pretty easily. Okay and we'll speed it up here as we take out those bolts. Make sure that before you put these back together that these pins are nice and clean and they have a little bit of grease on them. These look very good. Now use your wrench here to kind of pry my caliber off. All right, now just put the caliber up here out of the way. There's our inner pad again, our outer pad and you can see the wear mark there. They've got some good life on them, not a ton of miles but definitely don't need to replace them yet but if you did want to replace them you can pull your pads right out like that. Okay, now your routers and on this vehicle, most vehicles what you want to do is take your back of your fingernail and kind of run it along the routers, feel for any deep grooves or gouges and then just kind of inspect the condition of the routers and these look absolutely fine.
If you feel any grooves or there's too much rust or corrosion or your routers look thin than you do want to replace them. To remove and replace the routers, there are two large bolts here and here. These bolts are 15 mm as well so what I have here is my ratchet and I'm going to use a piece of pipe. Okay the pipe goes on there, gives me some extra leverage and I'll push slowly down on the pipe. I can feel bolts starting to break loose. On top here, I'm going to use a short extension, use a piece of pipe again. Just easy pressure until the bolt starts to break loose. Once that brackets off, the router simply comes right off. What I like to do is I just put one lug nut on to kind of hold it in place. The bracket goes between the knuckle and the router then the bolt goes in with space around the back. Okay and we'll speed it up here as we just put those bolts in and tighten them primarily. Tighten them up to 85 foot pounds. You want to use a wire brush and you can actually take these slides off and you want to clean out where the pads move back and forth. Now your pads, obviously I'm not putting new pads in because mine are fine.
What this vehicle really needed was a new hub. Put the pads back in just by placing them like that. Now if you're putting new pads on, you'll need to- you can see my cylinder is out of the caliber some so you'll need to push that cylinder back in and you can do that with a large C clamp. Okay, we'll speed it up here as we tighten up that clamp, push that piston back in. How you may want to remove check your brake fluid if it's overfull you may want to remove some of the fluid so it doesn't leak out. Now it goes down like that. Okay, put the slides back in, make sure they're nice and clean and have some grease on them, tighten them up with your ratchet and socket and pull them nice and snug. They should probably be about 25 to 30 foot pounds and then remove that lug nut and now we can put our tire back on. Start the lug nuts by hand, tighten them up preliminarily with your wrench and then you'll do the rest of the tightening when the car is on the ground. Now here with the car on the ground, tighten the lug nuts up to 90 to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Most important is the last step, make sure whenever you take your brakes apart, pump your brakes a bunch of times first to do a stop from like five and then ten miles an hour before you do a road test.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to us toll-free 888-844-3393, we're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to do a front break job on this 1997 Buick LeSabre. We show you the right side; left side's the same. We recommend you change your breaks in pairs. This video is the same for the '93 to' 99 LeSabre. as well as the Park Avenue, even the Bonneville, Olds 88 same vintage. You'll need new pads and rotors from 1AAuto.com, 19 millimeter socket and socket wrench or your tire iron, a pry bar or a long screwdriver, a large C clamp, a 3/8 Allen key tool or a socket, some grease, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.
We're going to fast-forward here. Remove the center cap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and secure the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
So we'll do a general inspection of the brakes. We got the outside pad, the inside pad, and there's a bit of uneven wear we can see when you look through here. So we might run into a sticking caliper. When it comes down to the rotors, you are going to want to run your finger along them and check them. There is a bit of a ridge here that can cause pulsations, but we're going to go ahead and replace them.
The calipers are held on with two bolts. Use a 3/8 inch Allen, and this has quite a bit of rust, so we're going to knock this one in. So, as you saw, I used a hammer to kind of tap the Allen key in, and then it should come out fairly easily. If it doesn't come out as easily as it did there you can use a hammer and give a couple of good raps to the Allen key, and it should loosen it up. I want to be able to separate the caliper off the rotor, and in order to do that, I'm just going to pry it up. I'm going to reset the piston inside the caliper with a clamp; you could also use a pair of water pump pliers.
As we tighten the clamp down, it pushes the piston back into the caliper. I'm going to push out the 8 millimeter bolts that held the caliper on so that we can lubricate them. We are using a screwdriver to push it out. Sometimes you may need to use a hammer if they are frozen up too bad to tap them out. Get a wire brush and clean them up a little bit. Then use a little bit of anti-seize.
With the rotor off, and as we put the brakes back together you'll notice we're putting in new breaks; it's just a good time to do it. If you want to see a more detailed video of how to do this, check out our other videos for the Buick LeSabre front breaks. Outboard pad we're going to slip in just like this. The little tabs are going to fall into place. And then the inboard pad, these clips are going to go inside the caliber and the piston. Then just slide it right back over to your rotor and line up your bolt holes. Okay so I'm going to speed up as I put the bolts in, and if you notice, we had a little trouble putting the caliber on; make sure the bolts are pulled back and out so they don't contact the caliber bracket as they go in.
But at this point use that 3/8 Allen wrench and tighten those right up. Then you straighten things back out, take that lug nut off, put your wheel and tire back on, put the lug nuts on by hand first, then tighten them preliminarily. One hundred foot-pounds is the torque spec for lug nuts.
Whenever you've had the breaks apart, just make sure you go in and pump the brakes a bunch of times. Make sure you have a nice firm pedal before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show how to service the front brakes on this 2000 Buick LaSabre, pretty much the same for any 2000 and 2005. It ends up this vehicle has very good brakes on it so we do just take them apart and put them back together for you. New brakes are available at 1AAuto.com.The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15mm and 19mm sockets, ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage on some of those bolts, large flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, some grease, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.
On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly and you want to loosen the lug nuts. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm socket with an impact wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire and then just turn the suspension so I can get a good look at the brakes.
It would appear that the brakes have been done recently on this vehicle. I can tell because here's the metal of the brake pad, here's the brake pad itself and then here's rotor and you can see there's a good probably 3/8 of an inch of pad there, which is plenty of life. Then on the outer pad, it's same thing. It's nice and thick. For the rotors, you want to try and do an inspection, run the back of your fingernail along them and you'll feel very, very small grooves but you shouldn't feel any large grooves. Then the condition of the rotors up here looks pretty good, a little bit rusty but not too bad, still nice and thick. It looks like these brakes are good but we'll show you how to take them apart and put them back together just so you have the information.
To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts, here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm socket with a ratchet and these should come apart with some force but they should come apart pretty easy. I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both of those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually the items that the caliper slide on, as well. So, I'll show a little close-up to you. These are slides. When you take them apart you want to note their condition. These probably should be cleaned up and put a little bit of grease onto them. We'll speed it up here again as I just finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. Take a large screwdriver, put it right in here, and pry out, and that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You can see I use a screwdriver to pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens it up enough so I can get the caliper up and off. Then I hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Brake pads, really easily, just pry out. As I said, there's plenty of life left in these pads. For the back one, do the same thing. It pulls right out the back side.
If you did need to replace the rotor, you'd want to remove these two bolts here. I'm using my socket again and a ratchet, use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start getting them loose. I fast forward here as I use the ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both of the bolts out. Now your rotor comes right off.
Now, we're going to show you how to put the brakes back together. As you can see, there's a nice new hub on this vehicle that actually turned out to be what the car needed so we actually did a hub replacement and you can see that video on our other videos. We decided to do this brake video to help you out as well while we were doing the hub. The rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these are all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide. This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle. The bolt goes to the steering knuckle first then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Start my upper one. Speed it up here as I just preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now we'll torque these to 80 foot-pounds.
Bring your caliper down. You'll need a large C-clamp and put it into the piston and this just resets the piston all the way back into the caliper. Just make sure it's on the flat part of the back side, that it's not on the hose or anything. As you tighten it up, it forces the piston back into the caliper. I'll just speed it up as I back the C-clamp off and remove it. Put it down, and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit, put your caliper down on, and make sure those aren't bunched up. Here are my slides. I cleaned them up, and put a light coat of grease on them. The lower one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little grease on the inside and the outside of it. Put our brake pads back on. The back one just slides right in. This front one you push down in a little bit diagonally. Put it in. Put the top one back in first. Start it a little bit. Now do our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just preliminarily tighten those bolts. Torque these to about 50 foot-pounds. I apologize for the low volume. Fifty foot-pounds is what you want to torque those to.
Speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with an impact wrench. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. We'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts.
Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We show you on the passenger's side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, a 15mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, a flat blade screwdriver, a wire brush, brake cleaner, brake grease, a large C-clamp, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by just loosening up these lug nut caps. Now, you can remove your lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools you want to loosen these up while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. If you do have air-powered tools, you can just remove them right here. Then you can just pull your wheel off.
Now, to inspect your brakes you can look in here and see the life of this brake pad. For the other brake pad you can just look in right here. Then, you also just want to run your fingernail along the rotor and check for any deep gouges. Check this lip up here and make sure it's not too bad. These aren't too bad. Then you just want to pry in on the brake pads, and this will push in the piston on the caliper. Then remove these two 15mm bolts, and we'll just fast-forward as Mike does this. Now, just pull your caliper up and off.
You can just set that aside and then pry out your brake pads. Then, you want to remove these two 15mm bolts right here. and we'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Then you can just pull your caliper bracket free, and then pull your rotor free. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads; on the right is new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
Slide your new rotor into place, and then just replace the lug nut to hold it into place. Next, using a wire brush, clean up your brake pad slides on your caliper bracket. Then put the bracket into place, replace those two 15mm bolts, and just tighten them up. Now torque these two bolts to 85 foot-pounds. Using some mineral spirits, just clean up your rotor. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of your brake pads. Then apply some grease to the outside of the brake pads. Now push your brake pads into place. Now, using a large C-clamp and an old brake pad, push in the piston on your caliper. You can see the piston moving in. Then apply grease to these slides. Then put your caliper back down into place.
Then push those slides back into place on the back. We'll just fast forward as Mike tightens those up. Now, torque these two slides to 75 foot-pounds. Then replace your wheel and each of the lug nuts. You want to just tighten them preliminary, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Then torque these lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap and tighten up those lug nut caps.
Whenever you do any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up, and then do a stopping test from five miles per hour then ten miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front brakes. I found that this car actually has fairly new front brakes on it, so we're not actually putting new parts on it, just showing you how to take them off and putting them back correctly.
This process is the same for all 2000 and 2005 Impalas, and it's similar for a whole bunch of different cars that have front disk brakes, flat blade screwdrivers, a large size, 15 millimeter, 19 millimeter socket and ratchet, which obviously can be different per vehicle. A breaker bar or pipe, you might need that for leverage, and the torque wrench to get it back together correctly.
First use a screwdriver to remove the center cap. This car has aluminum wheels. If you have a hubcap it might be a little different. You may need to use a wrench to loosen up your lug nuts first while your wheels on the ground, then raise and support your car, and always follow the instructions with the jack and jack stands to jack a car. You can either place a jack or place your jack stand. You can also jack right up here onto the sub frame where the two beams meet.
I have the fortune of having air tools, so I'm going to use them. Just remove the wheel here. You can also use just turn the steering wheel and turn your wheel so you can access the brakes easily. To remove the calipers, you're going to remove two 15 millimeter bolts, one down there and one right up there.
Before you do that, you take a screwdriver or a large pry bar and put it in this hole. If your brakes are worn down more than on this car, you may have to use more angle but then you pry out and that helps to push your piston down into the caliper and makes it easier to get the caliper off.
Now, I'm going to remove those two bolts, and they shouldn't be too tight. They're usually tightened up to about 50 to 60 foot pounds, and we're going to speed it up here.
Depending on how much you pushed the piston back in, you can pull the caliper up and off. Have a screwdriver handy as I now appear with one, and just use a screwdriver to pry off the caliper and put it up top for now. Be careful not to stress your line and then the brake pads just come right off. They just pry right out of the caliper bracket.
Actually, this car has new brakes on it. I'm doing this to show you, but to remove the hub, you remove the caliper bracket by removing those two bolts, and those again are 15 millimeter bolts. You can't quite see it, but I did secure my caliper up top with a wire tie, and now I'm going to use my ratchet and a big piece of pipe.
That pipe helps me get leverage and I'm just going to pull nice and easy. I just keep applying pressure until that bolt breaks loose. Get it going some, and then I'll do the same thing up top. I'll keep continuing to add torque until it breaks loose and get it going and then I'll drop my pipe and just use my air tools to zip them out the rest of the way.
Now my caliper bracket comes up and off, and then, your rotor just comes right off like that. Now here, obviously, the rotor just goes back onto the hub and then I'll hit fast forward. I just use a lug nut to hold the hub in place while I put the brakes together.
We'll grab our bolts, and I got the large 15 millimeter bolts and put the caliper bracket on. Here is just a view from the front so you can see the caliper goes on the opposite side of the steering knuckle, closer to the rotor, and then the bolts go into it.
Now, we want to get those tightened and then tighten them up to 90 foot pounds using a torque wrench. The caliper brackets are stainless steel clips. They're slides. They pull off, and then you want to use a wire brush and just clean those up.
Those are what the calipers slide back and forth in, and then once you clean them up with the brush you can clip them back on. Obviously, this could be done with the caliper bracket off, but if you're just replacing your pads, you want to do it this way.
Now, take your pads, and they basically just slide right into those clips. There's the front side. You put them down into one side first, and then slide them into the other side, and then we'll put the back side in.
Now you want to pull your caliper down and use a large c-clamp. What I'm doing is forcing the piston all the way back into the caliper. If we slope back down here, you can see that piston with the clamp is pushing in is going back into the caliper. You do this and reset it. It lets you put your brake pads on or it lets you get the caliper down onto the brake pads very easily.
It's very important that when you put your vehicle back together, before you drive it out on the road, you want to pump your brakes about four or five times. That allows the piston to work its way back out to the proper place.
You want to make sure you pump your brakes, make sure it holds the car in gear and then do a stop from like 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour. Make sure the brakes are working before you drive it on the road.
Now, you can put your caliper down onto your pads. I'm just going to put that clamp down, and there are the little boots that are on the caliper bracket. You squeeze those down as you put the caliper onto the bracket. Then you grab your long bolts. These are pretty clean and well-lubricated. What you want to do is make sure you clean them off a little bit, put some grease on it, just a little bit, a sparing amount. They should slide in nicely. You might have to just kind of move those rubber boots around a little bit and work them in, and then start them by hand.
We'll fast forward as we're just putting those two caliper bolts on. I'll slope back down here. We're using a torque wrench and we're going to torque this bolts up to 50 foot pounds.
Back to fast forward here as we finish up torqueing up those bolts. Once those are done, then you want to remove that lug nut that's holding the rotor, and then you'll spin your wheel straight so it makes it easier to get the tire back on.
Now we'll put the wheel back on and you want to start all the lug nuts by hand so you don't cross-thread them, then you use your wrench or even just by hand. You just want to get the lug nuts preliminary tightened up, just so they kind of hold the wheel in place, and then you'll torque them after you let the car down back onto the ground.
We're back on the ground. We're going to torque our lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds, and you see I'm using a star pattern, basically drawing a star as I torque the lug nuts. Now we'll install our cap, and again, a very important note. Make sure whenever you do work on your brakes, get in your car, pump them a bunch of times first.
Make sure the pedal goes solid again then do a stop from like 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour. Before you go out on the road, make sure your brakes are working properly.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
