2007 Buick Rainier Front Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73341

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In this video we're going to be working with our 2012 GMC Acadia all-wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your rear brake pads and rotors, as well as how to adjust your e-brake up once you've installed new rotors onto the vehicle.

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Any time you work on your brakes, we suggest you wear a dust mask and glasses to keep all the dust and debris from getting into your eyes and lungs while you're working.

While we're doing this on the passenger side, this process will be the same on the driver side. We always recommend that you replace your brakes in pairs.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 13-22mm socket, wrenches, ratchet, socket extension, breaker bar, pry bar, torque wrench, T30 Torx bit, flat head screwdriver, hammer, wire brush, groovelock pliers, brake cleaner, grease, bungee chord

Loosen your lug nuts using a twenty-two millimeter deep socket and a breaker bar. Raise and support your vehicle. You can do this with a jack and jack stands at home, but we're going to put it up on a lift to make it easier to show. Once you have your vehicle in the air, you can finish removing your lug nuts. Remove the wheel and tire.

Hold the wheel studs with a small pry bar. Use a T30 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove your rotor screw. Once you've broken it loose, you can remove the pry bar and finish taking the screw out. Remove the two fourteen millimeter caliper bolts on the back side of the caliper with a fourteen millimeter socket and ratchet. You may have to hold the caliper pin with a seventeen millimeter wrench to keep it from turning while we loosen the fourteen millimeter bolt on the back with our socket and ratchet. Be sure to crack both of these loose before removing either one fully. Remove your caliper. Secure it up and out of the way with mechanics wire, a zip tie or a bungee cord.

Remove your old brake pads. Sometimes these can be in there a little tight, so you may need a small screwdriver to help get them out. Remove the two caliper bracket bolts with a twenty-one millimeter socket and breaker bar. Again, you'll want to loosen both of these before removing either one fully. Once you've broken the bolts lose, you can finish removing them with a twenty-one millimeter socket and ratchet. Once the bolts are out, remove your caliper carrier from the vehicle.

Sometimes you can simply pull the rotor off by hand, but ours is stuck, so we're going to hit the surface of the rotor with a hammer back and forth to release it from the hub. We never recommend that you reuse rotors when doing a brake job, because they build up grooves and rust on them. You can get them machined, but usually they are so thin after the machining process that they're much more prone to warping. If you do have to reuse your rotors, you can hit this surface to release it. Just be careful not to hit the studs.

Once you've freed it, remove the rotor. Before throwing out our old rotor, we'll have to make sure we save this little rubber cap for the access hole to adjust our e-brake in case our new rotor needs it. There are a couple of quick things you need to do to your caliper carrier before re-installing it on the vehicle. Check and make sure your slides move nice and smooth. Ours are good.

We'll have to hold back on our boot here so we can remove the slide. Take a paper towel or a clean rag and wipe all that old grease off. Then put a nice fresh coat of brake grease. Make sure we keep moisture and corrosion out and allow our brake caliper to move smooth.

Reinstall it until it pops back into the boot. Repeat this step with the opposite pin. We'll also have to remove our shims here. Now if these are all corroded or cracked and broken, you'll have to change them out with new ones, but ours look pretty good. We'll just go ahead and take a steel wire brush and remove all that corrosion from them. These don't have to be perfect as long as they're nice and smooth and clear of dirt and debris and any kind of burs or cracking. Whenever you're doing stuff like this with your brakes, you're going to want to wear a dust mask and glasses to keep all that debris that's getting kicked up out of your eyes and your lungs.

Once our slide is nice and clean, we'll do the same thing to remove any build up from where the slides ride in the caliper carrier. Once that's all clear, we'll reinstall our slide. Apply a thin coat of grease to the portion that our pads are going to ride on. Once that's all done, we'll repeat this step with the opposite shim.

This hub isn't too bad, but just because we have it off, we're going to take our steel wire brush and remove any corrosion and rust build up that's on here so we can apply a thin layer of grease to it and make it that much easier to remove our rotor the next time we have to service our brakes.

Install your rotor onto the hub backwards, and spray down the surface with brake cleaner to remove the cosmoline that they put onto the surface to keep it from rusting while it's in storage. Flip it over. Be sure to line up the beveled hole with the threads for our rotor screw. Then spray down the front surface as well.

Your rotor screw is in a critical part of the function of your rear brakes, but, as you can see, our rotors hang at kind of an angle here. That's going to make it more difficult to line up our caliper carrier, brake pads and caliper later on. If you have yours, go ahead and take that T30 Torx socket and ratchet. Tighten them in there. To adjust the e-brake in the rear, you want it to drag lightly against the inside surface of the rotor.

Locate your adjuster wheel through this access hole in the rotor. In this vehicle, it's at about eleven o'clock. Adjust up that e-brake until it won't turn anymore. Once you have it adjusted all the way out so you can't turn anymore, you want to back that adjuster back off and set it so it just lightly drags against the inside of the rotor. You've adjusted it down so that e-brake just drags lightly against the rotor.

Go ahead and reinstall your plug. Reinstall your caliper carrier and your two 21mm bolts. Tighten those down with your 21mm socket and ratchet. Torque the caliper carrier bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Install your new pads into the slides. Apply a coat of grease to the back of the pad.

Using a pair of groove drop pliers, c-clamps or proper brake caliper compressing tools, slowly collapse the piston back into the caliper until it's flush. Once the piston is pushed back into the caliper, remove whatever you used to secure it out of the way. Make sure that your flexible brake hose isn't twisted or kinked in anyway, and reinstall the caliper onto the carrier. Then you can start your two 14mm bolts by hand. Torque the bolts to 20 foot-pounds. Again, you may need to use your 17mm wrench to counter hold the guide pins from sliding.

Reinstall your wheel and tire onto the vehicle, and install your lug nuts as tight as you can by hand. Torque your wheels to 140 foot-pounds. On a six lug wheel, you want to tighten the lug nuts in a triangle, so we'll go this way across the wheel and then make another triangle to tighten it all down.

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