2003 Buick Century Front Semi-Metallic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73562

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we'll be showing you how to replace the front back pads and rotors on this Buick Century same as LeSabre, Grand Prix, Bonneville, Montana, Chevy Venture, Olds Silhouette, Olds Intrigue. The tools you'll need are some metric sockets, a 15 mm and a 19 mm, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, a way to lift and secure your car and a large C-clamp. After we have raised and secured the car and now we can remove this stutter cap with a screwdriver. This hubcap comes off. We're just loosening up the plastic caps. Then using either your lug wrench or 19 mm, remove the tire. You can make it easier on yourself, turn your wheels this way, allows easier access to these bolts. Now using a 15 mm wrench we're going to remove these two bolts here. These two bolts are your slider bolts. You want to make sure you clean them up, put a little bit of grease on them before you put them back in. Pry your caliper right up and off. It will get stuck on the brake shoes a little bit. All I did there was I put my screwdriver in there and pushed the piston back in to get it off some.

Here are my old brake pads. See they're pretty thin. Most often when you replace your brakes you want to replace the rotors too. To get the rotors off, you've got to take off your old pad and bracket here, which is two 15 mm bolts again. Take the bracket off. Just shake a little bit and pull. It comes off. A new rotor from 1A Auto goes right on there. Put our pad bracket right back on. Make sure you get them started really well. I'm just going to use my impact wrench to get them a little in there. I'm going to torque them to 75 foot pounds. Now I'm going to put my new pads back in. This one has a wear marker. This little tab starts hitting the rotor as your brakes wear down. Have that on the outside and the wear marker pointing behind where the wheel is going to rotate. Here's my outer one. Take my socket here. There's my inner. Now we need to take our caliper here and force our piston back in. You need a large C-clamp like this. I just have the C-clamp right in the cylinder here. Prop it up here so you can see it.

I just tighten it slowly and that piston goes back into the caliper. The caliper can go back down on. Pull these little boots in. Right here's my two caliper bolts cleaned up. Put a little bit of wheel bearing grease on them. This one has a bushing on the end, that's the lower one. Just make sure that goes. Leave that one there. My boot's not really lined up. Make sure you get your boots lined up where they should be. Push the bolts in. I'm just going to tighten these up gentle with the torque impact wrench. Now I'll torque them 75 foot pounds. Now mount the tire back up. Now what I'll do is I'll put the lug nuts on. I'll lower the car back down and torque them to 75 foot pounds and then put the hubcap on and everything. Take it for a test drive. One thing you want to make sure you do after you've done the front brakes, you want to pump the brakes a bunch of times before you test it and then when you road test it, you want to make sure that the first time you do it, just do it in your driveway and make sure it'll hold the car in drive first, then go five miles an hour, press the brakes, make sure it stops and then take it out on the road for a road test.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's with you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green, I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience, restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts for 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video. In this video, we're going to show you how to change the pads and routers on this '97 Cadillac Deville.

On this vehicle, the brakes are actually in good shape so we just show you how to take them apart and put them back together. You can order new routers and pads for 1A Auto, this is the same for '96 to '99 Deville. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15 and 19 mm sockets with ratchet and extension and you'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for extra leverage for a couple of bolts and also a large C-clamp. Use a screwdriver, I like to use a rag so I don't scratch the wheel or the center cap. Pry it underneath there. Your lug nuts are 19 mm, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts and then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Okay, now with your wheel turned, you can see right inside here, you can see that little hole in the brake pad that is exactly a wear indicator. It would indicate on this brake pad, you are in good shape and if you look at your outer pad, you can see that there's some still some pretty good like in it.

You want to make sure that you check both sides because sometimes you can have one side that's not worn and the other side can be more worn. Our brakes are fine, I've checked both sides but I am going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you how to do it. The next thing you want to do is remove these two bolts here, which releases your caliber. These two bolts are 15 mm. They should come apart pretty easily. Okay and we'll speed it up here as we take out those bolts. Make sure that before you put these back together that these pins are nice and clean and they have a little bit of grease on them. These look very good. Now use your wrench here to kind of pry my caliber off. All right, now just put the caliber up here out of the way. There's our inner pad again, our outer pad and you can see the wear mark there. They've got some good life on them, not a ton of miles but definitely don't need to replace them yet but if you did want to replace them you can pull your pads right out like that. Okay, now your routers and on this vehicle, most vehicles what you want to do is take your back of your fingernail and kind of run it along the routers, feel for any deep grooves or gouges and then just kind of inspect the condition of the routers and these look absolutely fine.

If you feel any grooves or there's too much rust or corrosion or your routers look thin than you do want to replace them. To remove and replace the routers, there are two large bolts here and here. These bolts are 15 mm as well so what I have here is my ratchet and I'm going to use a piece of pipe. Okay the pipe goes on there, gives me some extra leverage and I'll push slowly down on the pipe. I can feel bolts starting to break loose. On top here, I'm going to use a short extension, use a piece of pipe again. Just easy pressure until the bolt starts to break loose. Once that brackets off, the router simply comes right off. What I like to do is I just put one lug nut on to kind of hold it in place. The bracket goes between the knuckle and the router then the bolt goes in with space around the back. Okay and we'll speed it up here as we just put those bolts in and tighten them primarily. Tighten them up to 85 foot pounds. You want to use a wire brush and you can actually take these slides off and you want to clean out where the pads move back and forth. Now your pads, obviously I'm not putting new pads in because mine are fine.

What this vehicle really needed was a new hub. Put the pads back in just by placing them like that. Now if you're putting new pads on, you'll need to- you can see my cylinder is out of the caliber some so you'll need to push that cylinder back in and you can do that with a large C clamp. Okay, we'll speed it up here as we tighten up that clamp, push that piston back in. How you may want to remove check your brake fluid if it's overfull you may want to remove some of the fluid so it doesn't leak out. Now it goes down like that. Okay, put the slides back in, make sure they're nice and clean and have some grease on them, tighten them up with your ratchet and socket and pull them nice and snug. They should probably be about 25 to 30 foot pounds and then remove that lug nut and now we can put our tire back on. Start the lug nuts by hand, tighten them up preliminarily with your wrench and then you'll do the rest of the tightening when the car is on the ground. Now here with the car on the ground, tighten the lug nuts up to 90 to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Most important is the last step, make sure whenever you take your brakes apart, pump your brakes a bunch of times first to do a stop from like five and then ten miles an hour before you do a road test.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to us toll-free 888-844-3393, we're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Brought to you 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years of experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front brakes. I found that this car actually has fairly new front brakes on it, so we're not actually putting new parts on it, just showing you how to take them off and putting them back correctly.

This process is the same for all 2000 and 2005 Impalas, and it's similar for a whole bunch of different cars that have front disk brakes, flat blade screwdrivers, a large size, 15 millimeter, 19 millimeter socket and ratchet, which obviously can be different per vehicle. A breaker bar or pipe, you might need that for leverage, and the torque wrench to get it back together correctly.

First use a screwdriver to remove the center cap. This car has aluminum wheels. If you have a hubcap it might be a little different. You may need to use a wrench to loosen up your lug nuts first while your wheels on the ground, then raise and support your car, and always follow the instructions with the jack and jack stands to jack a car. You can either place a jack or place your jack stand. You can also jack right up here onto the sub frame where the two beams meet.

I have the fortune of having air tools, so I'm going to use them. Just remove the wheel here. You can also use just turn the steering wheel and turn your wheel so you can access the brakes easily. To remove the calipers, you're going to remove two 15 millimeter bolts, one down there and one right up there.

Before you do that, you take a screwdriver or a large pry bar and put it in this hole. If your brakes are worn down more than on this car, you may have to use more angle but then you pry out and that helps to push your piston down into the caliper and makes it easier to get the caliper off.

Now, I'm going to remove those two bolts, and they shouldn't be too tight. They're usually tightened up to about 50 to 60 foot pounds, and we're going to speed it up here.

Depending on how much you pushed the piston back in, you can pull the caliper up and off. Have a screwdriver handy as I now appear with one, and just use a screwdriver to pry off the caliper and put it up top for now. Be careful not to stress your line and then the brake pads just come right off. They just pry right out of the caliper bracket.

Actually, this car has new brakes on it. I'm doing this to show you, but to remove the hub, you remove the caliper bracket by removing those two bolts, and those again are 15 millimeter bolts. You can't quite see it, but I did secure my caliper up top with a wire tie, and now I'm going to use my ratchet and a big piece of pipe.

That pipe helps me get leverage and I'm just going to pull nice and easy. I just keep applying pressure until that bolt breaks loose. Get it going some, and then I'll do the same thing up top. I'll keep continuing to add torque until it breaks loose and get it going and then I'll drop my pipe and just use my air tools to zip them out the rest of the way.

Now my caliper bracket comes up and off, and then, your rotor just comes right off like that. Now here, obviously, the rotor just goes back onto the hub and then I'll hit fast forward. I just use a lug nut to hold the hub in place while I put the brakes together.

We'll grab our bolts, and I got the large 15 millimeter bolts and put the caliper bracket on. Here is just a view from the front so you can see the caliper goes on the opposite side of the steering knuckle, closer to the rotor, and then the bolts go into it.

Now, we want to get those tightened and then tighten them up to 90 foot pounds using a torque wrench. The caliper brackets are stainless steel clips. They're slides. They pull off, and then you want to use a wire brush and just clean those up.

Those are what the calipers slide back and forth in, and then once you clean them up with the brush you can clip them back on. Obviously, this could be done with the caliper bracket off, but if you're just replacing your pads, you want to do it this way.

Now, take your pads, and they basically just slide right into those clips. There's the front side. You put them down into one side first, and then slide them into the other side, and then we'll put the back side in.

Now you want to pull your caliper down and use a large c-clamp. What I'm doing is forcing the piston all the way back into the caliper. If we slope back down here, you can see that piston with the clamp is pushing in is going back into the caliper. You do this and reset it. It lets you put your brake pads on or it lets you get the caliper down onto the brake pads very easily.

It's very important that when you put your vehicle back together, before you drive it out on the road, you want to pump your brakes about four or five times. That allows the piston to work its way back out to the proper place.

You want to make sure you pump your brakes, make sure it holds the car in gear and then do a stop from like 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour. Make sure the brakes are working before you drive it on the road.

Now, you can put your caliper down onto your pads. I'm just going to put that clamp down, and there are the little boots that are on the caliper bracket. You squeeze those down as you put the caliper onto the bracket. Then you grab your long bolts. These are pretty clean and well-lubricated. What you want to do is make sure you clean them off a little bit, put some grease on it, just a little bit, a sparing amount. They should slide in nicely. You might have to just kind of move those rubber boots around a little bit and work them in, and then start them by hand.

We'll fast forward as we're just putting those two caliper bolts on. I'll slope back down here. We're using a torque wrench and we're going to torque this bolts up to 50 foot pounds.

Back to fast forward here as we finish up torqueing up those bolts. Once those are done, then you want to remove that lug nut that's holding the rotor, and then you'll spin your wheel straight so it makes it easier to get the tire back on.

Now we'll put the wheel back on and you want to start all the lug nuts by hand so you don't cross-thread them, then you use your wrench or even just by hand. You just want to get the lug nuts preliminary tightened up, just so they kind of hold the wheel in place, and then you'll torque them after you let the car down back onto the ground.

We're back on the ground. We're going to torque our lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds, and you see I'm using a star pattern, basically drawing a star as I torque the lug nuts. Now we'll install our cap, and again, a very important note. Make sure whenever you do work on your brakes, get in your car, pump them a bunch of times first.

Make sure the pedal goes solid again then do a stop from like 5 miles an hour and 10 miles an hour. Before you go out on the road, make sure your brakes are working properly.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.