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Product Features
TRQ brake pads are manufactured using premium raw materials and design standards to restore original performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ’s combination of materials and design ensures a low dust and low noise braking experience. TRQ recommends replacing your brake rotors when you replace your brake pads to ensure even wear of components and improved braking comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on Orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii, Alaska and US Territories. Shipping is not available to Canada.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii and US Territories as well as P.O. Boxes and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Tools used
Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto. Today, we have an '07 Honda Accord in the shop, and we're going to be showing you how to do a front-brake service. If you need those parts or any other parts of your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com. 19-millimeter socket to loosen up the lug nuts. Now, I am going to raise and support my vehicle with my two-post lift, and you can use jack stands with a jack. Now, we're clear to remove the tire.
First thing to do is remove the boot for the caliper bleeder, and we're going to break that open and make sure it moves. 10-millimeter wrench. Nice and smooth. I'm just going to lightly snug it, so that I can break it free once it's hanging. 12-millimeter socket. We can break free the caliper mounting/slider bolts. It's two. One on the top, one in the bottom. So now we're going to look at the caliper slider bolts.
They both look good shape. Nothing's wrong with them. I can take a pry bar now and just pry my caliper off in the caliper bracket. While that's out, I can look at it, make sure the dust boot's not torn. There's no fluid leak. I'm going to take my tool that pushes the caliper piston back, snug it up before I start to push that piston back. I can open that bleeder screw again.
Aim it at the bucket I have down below to catch the brake fluid. At this time, I'm going to feel out the caliper piston. It's going back really smooth. No glitches. It's not frozen. No fluid's coming out of the dust boot. So, we have a good seal. Once that's snug, I can re-tighten my bleeder screw. 17-millimeter socket, and now we're going to break free the caliper bracket to knuckle bolts.
It's just two of them. One top, one bottom. Now we have the bracket with pads in it. There's the front rotor. So, now all's we have to do is take the pads out of the bracket, and that's basically if they're frozen, and then you can take a hammer, or I just squeeze them sometimes as the outer pad and the inner. I'm noting where the indicator is on the inner pad.
Here, we have our front rotor for our '07 Honda Accord from 1A Auto, and here we have our set of pads. They come pre-shimmed. They have the beveled edges to allow the brake dust to disperse evenly. Both inner and outer pad have that marking, and they both come with the shims. The rotors are a nice crosscut. They have the manufacturer's amount of vintage specs, and it has the actual specs stamped on it.
Here, we have a rotor that we took off. It's probably not original equipment, so if you need these parts or any of the parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com. Now, I'm going to clean the surface of the hub. Use a little brake clean. You can see all that dirt and grease come right off, and just use a nice wire brush. We don't want any raised grease. I mean, raised rust lines.
I just want to point something out here. So if someone has done a brake job on this car probably in the past eight months or so, then you can see the groove lines. They took what we call a grinder wheel or a whizzer cookie, and they just went to town on this hub. There's a couple of problems with that. That is shaving the metal off. You can see the actual marks. The car is probably... It's an '07, so it's 12 years old. It's up there in age.
The customer's never going to feel a pulsation, but you need to keep this down to a minimal of how much metal you take away from a hub on a mounting surface. So, now, we're going to clean up our front caliper bracket. First thing I'm going to do is clean the tins while they're in the bracket. It's easier to hold onto them. Do that to both sides. Now, we can take the tins off.
Let's clean out the surface that they mount to. See that right there? It's layers of rust. That's what I want to avoid, so I can chip away that. That'd be great. What happens there is that rust ends up swelling and pushing that tin up. It makes that pad not slide in and out of the bracket, so we call that... It'll end up with uneven wear and premature wear. That's the whole point of doing what we're doing.
That's much better. I'm going to clean the backside of the brackets here, the tins. These tins are in good shape. You can always order a set of tins with the brake job. So, if you don't want to clean, you want to avoid this part of the job. It will go quicker. Plus you don't know if it's damaged until you take it apart. So, might be best for the few dollars it costs to be prepared and just change them out new every time.
Now, I'm going to take the sliders out, and these are stiff, so I don't know what I'm going to find when I take this out whether it's damaged. I might actually take a pair of pliers to this. I got it. Wow. Okay, so either they put too much grease in there, or they didn't clean it when they redid it. Look at the condition of this. Looks like it's going to be able to be reusable. Let's take the boot off, really examine the boot. Make sure there's no pin holes.
That looks good. I'm going to take the wire brush and clean inside there. I'm going to repeat that process on this side. I'm going to reinstall the boot. Both sides, reinstall. Let's put some silicone paste right in there. This is water resistant, so hopefully, it stops that rust buildup that we saw that we took out. That only goes underneath, nothing on the top part of the tins.
We want a smooth sliding surface. Okay, the rubber bushing always goes on the top caliber bracket. I don't know about always. That seems like it's always that way, especially with Hondas. I got to put some on the boot inside. Much smoother. I couldn't even turn it before. Perfect. Let's do the same on the other side. I've put the rotor on backwards so that I can clean the surface before I install it.
I'm just getting the package oil off, the anti-rusts they put on for it when it sits on the shelf. I got to spray a little anti-seize lubricant on the hub. Now, I can mount my rotor. This did not have any of the mounting screws. They must have fallen off in previous... or maybe broke off in previous installations. I'm going to use a lug nut to hold that rotor flush to the hub. Now, you clean this surface of the verdict.
Now, we're ready to install our caliper bracket. We have a upper bolt key. Slide it. Then the lower bolt. We're just going to snug these. Then I'm going to torque them to the manufacturer's specs. 80-foot pounds is the specs for these caliper to knuckle bracket bolts. Now, we can put our pads in the caliper bracket. Put the inner one in first, and that's the one with the indicator, and it's on the top and the outer pad.
Let's grab the caliper, ready to mount that. You'll see a flat spot on the sliders. Those line up with the angle of the caliper. I'm going to torque down the caliper slider bolt, and it's 26-foot pounds. Last thing I'm going to do is reopen the bleeder screw, and let it gravity bleed till I see a steady stream of fluid. Looks good. No air bubbles. Well, we can snug that up. Let's clean it and re-install our caliper with the screw cover.
Now, we're ready to put our wheel back on. I'm just going to snug them up by hand. Then I'll lower it down on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on it, and I'll torque the wheel to 80-foot pounds. 19-millimeter socket, and we're going to torque the wheel to 80-foot pounds in a star pattern. Double check. Now, we're going to repeat the process on the other side.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
If your vehicle is equipped with a wheel lock key, you want to make sure you have this before you start. You're going to use a breaker bar, and these are 19mm. Start with the wheel lock key one. Should always use a breaker bar on the wheel lock key, don't use an air impact, because you can easily break the key. Just get them loose, about half a turn. Should always loosen the lug nuts with a vehicle on the ground. Once you've loosened your lug nuts, raise and support your vehicle. We're going to use a lift for this so it'll make it easier to see what you're doing. But you can do this on jack stands in your driveway. With the vehicle in the air, now we can loosen the rest of the lug nuts. Careful as you loosen the last one, because the wheel might start to slide off the wheel studs.
I'm going to start by removing this 12mm bolt that is holding on our brake hose. Because once this caliper is loose, we need enough slack to bring it up and hang it from our spring. Take some rust penetrant oil and spray it on the threads. Take my 12mm wrench and break this free. Sometimes you have to work it back and forth once the oil's in there. Once it gets loose, I'm going to switch to a ratcheting wrench. I can use this or a 12mm socket ratchet. Pull that out of the bracket. I'm going to put our bolt back into the bracket so it doesn't get lost. Using the 12mm wrench, I'm going to remove the lower caliper bolt so that I can swing this caliper up and remove the pads.
Using a large flat bladed screwdriver or a small pry bar, I'm going to pry the caliper loose. We're going to rotate it up. See, those pads are pretty worn down. I'm going to remove these pads. Just with my fingers, so we can see, I'm just going to move this around—our caliper's sliding, nice little slides, and I can feel the lower slide is moving in and out. So this caliper's in good shape, and it's not seized up. Now I will remove the caliper bracket bolts—there's one on the bottom, one on the top, they are 17mm. You either need to use a rubber mallet or a deadblow hammer to break them free. Once one is loose, start working on the other one. You don't want to remove one completely and then try to loosen up the other one. It'll make it easier if the caliper is locked in place.
Now that they're loose, I'm going to take my 17mm socket and ratchet and use that to take them out, so it's a little easier. Quicker. Now I'm going to switch to the top one. Keep your hand on the caliper, because once this top bolt comes out, it will be loose. You don't want to hang it on the rubber brake hose. You want to have a bungee cord, or a stiff coat hanger, ready. And we're going to hang it from the spring. Put that aside. Use my fingers to get it out the rest of the way. Caliper is loose, going to lift it off the hub.
We're going to take a bungee cord, and we'll hang it from the spring. I'm going to swing the caliper back up, take our pin bolt, just loosely thread it in there so it's not hanging with all its weight on that one caliper bolt.
If you are replacing original rotors, they may have locating screws here and here that you will want to remove. This vehicle has already had the brakes done once, so these screws are not here anymore. Now I'm going to remove the old rotor. If it helps, you can take some rust penetrant oil, spray some around the hub. So this one's a little bit stuck. I'm going to thread on two of the lug nuts so the rotor doesn't fall off. And then using rubber mallet or a deadblow, just going to try to loosen it. So that rotor was caught on the edge of the hub, it's kind of rusty, and this was rusty in here, it was just a tight fit.
Before I put the new rotor on, I want to clean some of this rust off. I'm going to take a wire brush and just brush it off. Just work it around. Mostly going to do this inner hub, where the wheel sits. Now take some brake parts cleaner, and we're going to take off that penetrating oil we sprayed on there. This is our old disc brake and pads. This is our new disc brake and pads from 1AAuto.com. As you can see. The new ones will come with backing plates just like the old ones, shims. And the anti-squeal tabs. And the squealing tabs for the wear indicators.
You can see these pads are pretty worn down. This is a fresh pad, compared to a pad that is basically worn out, and you can see the huge difference. Looking at the rotors, same amount of lug holes, same screw holes to mount them, both ventilated, these should work great and give you a lot better stopping power than these worn out brakes.
Take our new rotor. I'm going to place it on inside out. Take brake parts cleaner. I'm just going to clean it. Now I can flip it and put it on the correct way. Take one of your lug nuts that you're not using, just thread it on there so the caliper doesn't fall off, actually make it a little easier if it holds on there straight while you're trying to put the caliper back on. Take our brake parts cleaner, clean it off. Actually take a rag and get some of the heavier stuff. You want to keep this surface nice and clean, free of oil and grease, because that's where your pads are going to ride.
Now I need to compress this piston back into the caliper because it will not fit over the rotor with the new pads, because it's come too far out. So I'm un-threading it. Just going to hold it in this hand, and put this bolt aside. I will take one of our old pads, and place it just like that. I'm going to take a large C-clamp. I'm just going to thread it down, just kind of go slowly, because it's going to push fluid back up into the reservoir. We can see the piston is being pushed back into the caliper. You don't have to kill this, this should be good right about there. Take the C-clamp off. Get rid of our old pad.
I'm going to unhook the caliper that we've got hanging here on the strut. Don't forget to take the bungee cord or coat hanger out of here that you're using. Take one of my caliper bolts, and I'm going to mount the caliper back up. Might have to move the caliper around so you find the threads in the hole. Might just have to wiggle the caliper around and try to thread the bolt in by hand until you catch the threads. So I've got this one close, I'm going to get it finger tight. I'm going to work on the bottom one.
Take our 17mm socket and ratchet, just going to get it snug right now, I'm not ready to torque these. And the bracket bolt to the hub, the lower bolt from the caliper pin is still out, I'm just going to rotate the caliper up, then take a bungee cord and just hold it up and out of the way while I work. Then I reuse these brake pad clips, they're stainless so they typically don't rust, I'm just going to clean 'em up. Just going to use a flatheaded screwdriver to get them out of here, so I can take them over to the bench and clean them. I'm using the inside of the box just to keep the brake parts cleaner and dirt contained so it doesn't get everywhere and make a mess. Take a little bit of brake parts cleaner, spray it on here. Take a wire brush, brush these out so they're nice and clean. This is where the pads ride. Don't have to be sparkling and new, just get the heavy dirt out of there. So that's a clean one and that's a dirty one. We're going to do the same for both. With our clean brake pad clips we're going to put them back in.
Did get some grease here so I'm going to clean that off with some brake parts cleaner. I'm going to take our new pad, take some brake parts cleaner, just in case you touched the surface by accident, and just spray this with some brake parts cleaner. Make sure it's nice and clean. That already evaporated. Take some brake caliper grease, put a little bit on the ears. This is the inside pad, with the wear indicator. Place it in the bottom first, rotate it up. Make sure my clip is seeded. The inside pad is installed. Install our outside pad. Make sure the pads are nice and tight against the rotor, roll the caliper down. If you get the piston compressed all the way it should just slide right over it.
Take our lower caliper bolt now, goes into the pin. Let's take our bolt back out of the strut bracket here that is holding the brake hose. Place it back where it belongs, put the bolt back in, take my 12mm ratcheting wrench, torque the lower 17mm bolt to 79.6, we're going to do 80 foot-pounds. Now torque the upper caliper back-up bolt, may need to add an extension to your torque wrench to reach it. Torque the lower caliper slide pin bolt 27 foot-pounds. We didn't undo this one, but I'm just going to check it. I'm going to torque the bolt holding on the brake hose to 16 foot pounds. Now you can remove this lug nut you had holding on the brake rotor.
Now we'll finish with the brakes, put the wheel back on. We'll start with our locking load because it's got a nice little tool you can hold it with. The key. Get the wheel seated on the hub. Take the rest of our lug nuts, so you have all your lug nuts sorted by hand, you can snug them up with your ratchet. Just want to get them seated, I will torque the wheel when it's on the ground. Put the wheel lock key on, sometimes you just have to spin it around so it lines up. Take our torque wrench, set to 80 foot pounds. Before you drive the vehicle, gently press the brake pedal about a third of the way, repeatedly, until it gets hard. Once you feel the brake pedal become hard, your job is complete, and you're ready to drive the vehicle.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi everyone, Sue here from 1A Auto and today we're going to be doing front brake service on a 06 Honda Element. If you need these parts or any other parts for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
To remove the tire you need a 19 millimeter socket. I have the vehicle, has weight on it so that I can loosen up each lug nut as I go around. I'm using a two post lift. At home you can use jack and jack stands. Now I have it up in the air. I'm just going to remove all the lug nuts. Now we can discard the hubcap.
I'm going to install our tool that we sell here on 1A Auto and it is a hose crimper. So if you're doing a brake job and you don't want your bleeder screw, once you open it, you don't want to leak brake fluid, it just collapses with the wingnut. That's going to stop the fluid from coming through. So the first thing I do on any brake job is obviously break open the bleeder screw to make sure it comes ... It'll free up for when we open it up to push our brakes back. I got a catch bucket underneath. So I know the bleeder screw opens up so I'm just going to snug it down. This will be ready to open up easily. 12 millimeter socket on the caliper slider bolts. Break that free. Now take both of them out.
Now I'm going to take a pry bar and pry that caliper off the bracket. There's our bracket. I'm going to use my caliper hanger which I did get at 1A Auto and that way I can hang it up here and out of the way. Now I have exposed the caliper bracket and I've got two mounting bolts here. Going to use a 17 millimeter socket. I'm going to break the caliper bracket free. Break the top one free. And there we have the caliper bracket with the pads in it. So now I'm going to grab the caliper and I'm going to check it to see if it's any good. I got to push the piston back just like you do with every brake job, push the piston back after I open up the bleeder screw. So I'm going to put my little C-clamps in there that I have, and I'm going to break open this bleeder screw before I push the piston back in. Okay, now with the bleeder screw open, you'll hopefully aim that correctly at the bucket.
Oh this thing is going back really hard. As you can see, it won't go all the way in. It is frozen right there. I am squeezing that and we know it's not because the flex hose has collapsed, I have the bleeder screw open. So with that bleeder screw open, that piston should go seat itself all the way back, flush in the piston because it has no way but to come out this way. So it's not going to retract back in there. So I know that my caliper piston is seized. So I do need new calipers now. So now I have to order a caliper and I do them as a pair always. So I'll be doing a caliper on the other side. So I'm going to take the front flex hose off. Now that I know that I have to replace the caliper, let's see if I can break it free without it attached to the bracket. Okay, got to get my catch pan underneath.
I'm going to keep my banjo bolt for the hose aside because that is going to have to get reused. Most of the time the calipers do not come with new bolts. They'll come with new washers. So now I'm going to get the rotor off and you can see that this factory rotor is held on with two flat ... They've got a cone shape to them, seat little bolts. So we use a pneumatic screwdriver, which is a hammer type. So you put the pressure on it and it spins and unlocks it. We'll get this bottom one. Perfect. You do not have to replace these. Some people will, they break or they strip off and you have to drill them out. It's just a luxury to have the rotor sit flush while you're working on the brakes. So I'm going to hit the hub with a hammer, try to break it free.
We're not going to use the rotor, so feel free to hit the surface. There you have it. Wow. Look at those hard spots. I'm sure they had a brake pulsation. I'm going to clean up the hub surface. First, I'm going to spray it with a little brake parts cleaner. Then I'm going to use my wire brush. Get any surface rust off. I just like to make sure I get inside, closest to the hub, the center where the rust really forms. And as you can see how it held a rotor on pretty good. So even though we were going to replace the caliper, I'm going to show you quick way of what I would do if I was to reuse this old caliper. So I'm taking that hardware out because I've got to make sure that I bought some, because I'm going to have to reuse that if I didn't.
So I take the outer pad out, take the inner pad out and then I've got good sliders here. Nope, that one's frozen. So if I had two good sliders here, look at the surface rust on this. I would remove these tens and I would strongly, if you're not going to replace the caliper, if you don't need to. I would strongly get new hardware because these tens are thin and I would take the caliper pins out, clean up the caliper grease, clean in there the best I can and reapply new caliper grease to that slider and make sure that they sit good. Make sure you examine the boots and there's no holes, no tears. And of course we know this one's frozen. Clean the surface here. Get rid of all the surface rust. Put caliper grease on the bottom. If you get the new hardware, just install it. If you use the old one, take a wire brush to all of this. Only apply caliper grease to the bottom side. Do not apply caliper grease or slider grease to the top, and then you should be ready to go.
Here we have our new rotors for our 06 Honda Element from 1A Auto. Got the new pans and they've got the nice down cut angle on the edges to stop the squealing and the brake dust build up. It also helps cool down the pad, there's slotted holes from the manufacturer so that you can put the anti-rattle clips in. It also comes with the indicator and already has the shims mounted on the back. The rotor is a nice cross-cut rotor on front and back. It's got the quality mounted cooling fins that come from the factory, same amount that the manufacturer requires. It's got the two seated screw holes for the hub. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to one 1aauto.com.
So now I'm going to install my new rotor and it comes with that shipping oil on it. So I just put it on the hub backwards like this so I can spray it and now I can flip it around. And before I do that, I'm going to put some ... This anti-seize so that it's, hopefully the next time someone doesn't have to hammer as hard as I just did. Just spread it out. I put it thick on around the hub and then I just go outward with it. Line up those awnings screw. Let's put those on first and then we'll spray it down and clean it. I use the pneumatic screwdriver also to install it and I just bottom them out. Give it a nice spin and hit it. See how that ... It was almost at an angle, so I'll double check both sides. Perfect. Now I can clean the surface.
So I've got a new caliper and I'm going to put some caliper grease on the bottom part of the caliper bracket, where the tins are going to sit. And hopefully in the future, stops it from rusting and corroding the tins. And what happens if you don't put new hardware on or if you don't take care of underneath where the pins sit, water gets in there, salt from the New England roads and the metal starts to flake in, it puts pressure on the tins and it slides them up. And what that will happen is makes the pads stop being able to slide on a nice smooth surface. It's like it becomes a actual frost heave in a sense.
And if the pads don't move smoothly, when that happens, you have premature wear on the pads. Okay. Once those are all seated, I'm just going to take and slide open, pull one of the sliders out or both of them just to see if they put an ample amount of silicone taste on there. I'm going to put a little more because when I pulled that out I could actually feel it rubbing against the metal. I like to add mine right to the boot. I'm going to put some more on this pin. Make sure that I get it on the inside of the line, these wrinkle parts, the folds. That way that silicone will always be in there. You can work it, push it all the way down and let the air come out. So I'm just going to take a little, this pocket screwdriver and I'm going to hold that open. There we go. Yeah, I got the air out. That's what I'm looking to do. I'm just going to do the same thing to this side.
Now I'm going to install the new caliper bracket on the knuckle. We have the two mounting bolts, I'm going to start them by hand. So now I'm going to torque the caliper bracket to the knuckle in the 17 millimeter socket and it is 80 foot-pounds. I'm going to install the pads now. So the one without the indicator is the outside one. So I'll slide that right in the spot and then I'm going to put the inner one in. Sometimes you have to just take a little screwdriver and push the pin back into place. There we go.
So we're going to put the anti-rattle pins, clips, butterflies, springs, whatever you want to call them. They go in those slots that are provided in the pads and you collapse them, line them up. Now I strongly recommend you hold on to the pad because it will just push them right out. So now I can install the actual caliper. Now piston's already back, it's pushed back from the factory when they rebuild it. Let's see, it comes with a nice new piston and seal. I'm going to slide that right on so that the pad doesn't pop out again. You got to turn the bracket, the slider pin has gotten a flat spot on it. I'm going to put the top bolt in. Now I've got to put the lower bolt in and you'll see what I mean by the flat spot. See, there's one right there and one right there. So they angle it like that. They have a spot to sit on the caliper. That's a 12 millimeter socket.
I'm just going to snug it down because I'm going to torque it to the specs, which is 25 foot-pounds. Now it comes time to install the flex hose. This caliper did come with a new banjo bolt, so make sure you get no dirt on the threads, and new copper washer that it supplies with. And we're going to look at this hose and make sure that the old copper washer is not stuck on it. Confirm it several times and it is right there. So the way I like to do is take the old bolts, sometimes you can put it right through there, pop that washer right off. Take a rag and just clean the surface, make sure there's no debris. Take the new bleeder screw bolt, banjo bolt, slide it through. New copper washer on this side.
So you got a new copper washer here, new copper washer there. This gives you a nice guide where the hose is going to sit and you're just going to turn that bolt in. That is a 12 millimeter also. I want those copper washers to seat so once it bottoms out, I'm going to tighten this to a good taut feeling. And I know that those couple washers have been seated properly. There you go. Now we can undo our tool that collapses the hose, stops it from leaking. Take that off. You can see the rubber bounces right back, and now I'm just going to open this bleeder screw. I've got my catch pan still there and I'm going to gravity bleed this. Once the fluid is coming through and it's coming through in a good, nice stream, there's no air bubbles. I can shut that bleeder screw off.
Now that the calipers and pads were installed in the front. I'm going to seat the pads and pump up the brakes. Let's check the brake fluid. So the manufacturer recommends DOT 3 which I'm going to put in, and this is the diaphragm, it goes down by suction when the brake fluid is low. So I just push it gently back into place. Make there's no chunks of dirt or anything or debris. So it's DOT 3 brake fluid, I'm going to fill it up to the full line, which is on the side here. You can see it starting to come up. I'm going to reinstall the cap. It's got these offsets, see how they're angled, so they lock them down and then it just kind of sucks it down. It's in there good. I'm going to gravity bleed one last time. I'm going to open up the passenger front bleeder screw. See if I can get in there. I'm going to make sure there's no air bubbles.
Like I said, I've already, gravity bled this when I first assembled it before I pumped it up. Steady drip coming out. No bubbles. So I'm going to tighten this up, clean it. Make sure you get with a banjo bolt, make sure that's nice and clean because you're going to want to recheck it after you pump the brakes up one last time. Make sure you don't have any leaks on the gasket. I'm going to install the bleeder screw cover. Now we're ready to go to the driver's side, do the same. Get a wrench, open that up. A couple of air bubbles there. I've got no more air bubbles. I've got a steady drip coming, so I'm going to close up the bleeder screw. Make sure that's tight. Clean it up and put my cover back on. Now I'm ready to install the wheels.
I'm going to mount the tire again. Grab your hubcap because this particular Honda does not have extra wide cutouts for three lug nuts. Set the rim up on the hub and put your lug nuts on. So the wheel torque, I got the weight of the vehicle down on the tire and I'm going to torque up the wheels and the wheel torque manufacturers spec is 80 foot-pounds.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1aauto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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