Replaces
Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
To get to the top of the rear shock mounts you have to go inside the trunk before you even raise and support the vehicle or take off the wheel and remove the trim panel that's in here. Use a flat bladed screwdriver, unscrew these plastic clips. Pull that out, put this back here so we don't lose it. This clip here and a clip here. Put this aside. And actually lift this up to get it out of the way. There's another clip here. Just kind of lift up on it. Can pop this trim up by pulling it up and out. Off the clips. And then we're just going to slide the carpet part off. This comes off all the way, that's fine. You can just put it aside. You have to do this for both sides. From here we can get inside to the top of the shock.
I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the top of the shock. This is a locking nut and in the top of the shock we have to put a five millimeter Allen key into to counter hold it. The nut is 14 millimeter. I'm going to put a 14 millimeter ratcheting wrench on here and a five millimeter Allen key and a breaker bar to counter hold it. I'll finish taking it off with my fingers. Take out our Allen key and breaker bar. Wrench came out with it. Take off that top plate. Just put that down inside here because we're going to reuse it. Take our 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar and while the vehicle's on the ground, we'll loosen our lug nuts.
We'll raise and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loose I can just take the socket and finish taking them off. Lug nuts loose I'll take the wheel off and tire and put it aside. Need to remove the lower bolt from the shock. Spray some rust penetrant. We're going to support the lower control arm with our floor jack. Take a 14 millimeter socket and a breaker bar, loosen this bolt. The head of our bolt has broken off, the bolt is going through the bottom of the shock and into a captured nut on the other side, it's actually kind of like a rounded welded threaded piece.
So what I'm going to try and do is hit this with a punch and hammer and through and break off that part, and then I'll have to replace the bolt and just put a nut on the other side. We're going to use an air chisel, give me a little more power. Punching this out didn't work, so I'm going to use a reciprocating saw to cut the captured part of the nut off of the control arm. And then we'll replace it with a regular nut on the bolt. Got a slot wide enough now, going to take a small pry bar and wedge it in there and a ball peen hammer and try to tap it away and break it off. There it is.
The shock is loose but part of the bolt is still through the opening on the other side. I'm going to take a pry bar, try to wedge this out. I'm not worried about bending this stamped steel control arm too much because when I put the bolt back through we can pull it back together. I just want to get it apart enough so I can get the shock out. There it is. You may need to compress the shock. You can just grab it, press it down, lift it up and out.
Here's our original shock from our vehicle and our brand new one from 1AAuto.com. It still has the strap on it from shipping, that's why it's compressed, otherwise it is identical in design to the original. This should be normally if you have a rust-free vehicle, this shouldn't be too difficult. This bolt should come right out of here. Unfortunately ours, the bolt head snapped and then I had to cut the bolt off and the captured nut off of the control arm, so I'm going to use a new flange nut and we'll install it just like that. Otherwise this should work great and fit great in our vehicle for us.
This needs to come off before we can install it up into the body. So what I'm going to do is just snip this off with some side cutters. The shock is going to want to expand. Take the nut off of here. Put it aside. Take off this rubber bushing. Separate these. One half's going to go through the body, the other half's going to go down on the top of it. This will go like this. Get our bolts. This is going to get fed up into the body. Put the bolt in there for a second. I'm going to push up against the body, compress the shock, and then lower this down in. Push the bolt through just like that.
Take our nut that we're going to use on the other side and I'm going to thread that on. Just get it snug for now. Car down so you can use the floor jack to lift the suspension up and put the shock up into the trunk. Put this jack up on the lower control arm of it. Make sure it's lined up and push these in place. That's all it takes. Put our bushing in just like that. Put our metal plate and thread the nut on. I'm going to use the ratcheting wrench tighten these. Torque is 22 foot-pounds.
So I'm starting to turn the shock shaft so I can use to use this adjustable wrench. There's some flat spots on either side of this and I can kind of hold it. I'm just going to snug it up. And that feels pretty good. Use our torque wrench with a 14 millimeter deep socket, 22 foot-pounds. I should really have a crow's foot to do this. I don't have one so I've got that snug and tight as I counter held it and just tightened it up. That should be good enough, it's only 22 foot-pounds. It felt good by hand. We'll leave that. So just repeat these steps because you should always replace shocks in pairs and do the other side. Then we put our carpet back in place. Just pushes back up in place. Push it under there.
I'm going to put this trim back in. It just snaps back in place. We can lower this down. Push our trim clips back in and line up the holes. Get that one in place. Push right in. This one lined up. Pushed in and this one here. Going to push this back in. Carpet's back in place. The jack putting some weight on the transmission just like we used it to push the shock back up into the body. I'm going to torque this to 43 foot pounds. I need to counter hold it. Of course if this has the captured nut you don't have to do that. Once it clicks, the bolt is tight. Now we can lower the jack away.
Since we moved the sway bar out of the way while we cut our captured nut off, we're going to reinstall the sway bar link but you shouldn't have had to do that. Otherwise install your wheel and the job is complete. Put the wheel back on the car. Get one of the lugs caught. Get them caught by hand first. We'll torque them with the vehicle weight on it, when it's on the ground, really just need to bring them down until they're seated. The vehicle on the ground, the lug nut torque is 79.6 foot pounds so we're going to do it 80. Do this on a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
With the vehicle on the ground, use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts. With all that loosened, and now we're going to raise and support the vehicle. The lug nuts are loosened. I should be able to use just the socket and finish removing them, and then I can take the wheel off. Last nut is removed, so I can take the wheel off.
Start by unclipping the EMS wire from the strut. Use some needle-nosed pliers to push together these tabs. Pull that out of the way. Take some rust penetrant, and spray on the bolt here that's holding on the brake line. It needs a 12mm box wrench to loosen this. Switch to a 12mm socket extension ratchet. Put this bolt aside. That can sit just like that. Now, loosen the strut bolts. Let’s spray some rust penetrant on here.
These bolts don't affect alignment, so we can remove them without fear of having to realign the car again. Using a 19mm socket and a larger breaker bar. I'm just going to try to loosen the nut first. And use a short extension—that's it there. Breaker bar in. It's usually easier to loosen these on the nut side rather than the bolt head side. And, see that's loose enough now that it's turning that bolt head. The bolt head is 17mm, so I'm going to use a 17mm socket on a breaker bar.
I'll take a ratchet. The ratchet will just make removing it quicker. Take that off and put it aside. Do the same for the bottom one. Finish taking it off with my fingers. Slide the bolt out. That one's in there a little tighter, but that's okay. I'm going to leave it in for now. I'm going to go up top and loosen the top strut bolts, and by leaving this bolt in, when you loosen the top strut bolts, the strut won't just fall down.
These are the top of the strut. There's this little door in the plastic cowl cover here. You just lift up on the rubber weatherstripping. You just kind of pull this out, and it'll pop out. Just put that up there. There's three nuts on the studs that are holding the strut up in the strut tower. These are 14mm. Use a 14mm socket and a ratchet with a bit of a swivel head. Can't quite fit a deep socket in here. With that one loose, move to the back. And there's one, it's in here. It's a little harder to see.
Let's go round and loosen them all. Got this one loose enough, I'll take it off with my fingers. Try not to drop it down the back. There it is. Plastic's really close to this one, so it kind of gets a little caught in the plastic trim. You just kind of have to pop it up and out of it. Need the last nut here. So as you loosen this, the strut might actually lower down out of the strut tower. The strut's loose. It'll come right out of there. I'm just kind of work the bolt out, just like that. Put that aside. Pull off the knuckle, turn it, and pull out the wheel well.
Right, so this strut's in good shape. We’re going to reuse it, but if you need a strut assembly, you can buy a brand new one from 1AAuto.com. We sell it as an assembly with the spring, top hat, everything all one piece. You don't have to deal with swapping over the spring, you can just take this out and swap the brand new one right in. But since this one's in working order, we're going to put it back in. I'm going to wind it. It’s going to go right up into the opening. You want to make sure that these bolt holes line up with the knuckle. Actually kind of rest it there and then come up here.
I'm going to lift it into place, just like that. I'm going to take one of the nuts and I'll just get it captured, then that can hang just like that. Take our strut bolts, and line that back up, kind of push it back up. Throw the nut on there. Do the same for the bottom one, you might have to move this around to get it to line up. Just going to reach in and install the other nuts. This trim's really close to this nut, so I had to kind of pull it out. Just get the nut started on there. And use our socket and 14mm socket and ratchet, and snug these up. I'm just going to get it snug. Torque these top nuts to 33 foot pounds, just when it clicks that's when you stop.
Now that we're done up here, you can put the little access door back on, it clips into the top. Don't forget to put the weatherstrip back down, it just snaps on. Then kind of hold the bolts. I'm going to snug these down and we'll come back and torque them. Kind of hold the bolts again. Take a torque wrench and torque these to 67 foot-pounds. Once it clicks, you're done.
Don't forget to put the brake line back in place. Reinstall the clip for the ABS. Reinstall the wheel. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. I'm just going to snug them down and when I put the car on the ground, I will torque them. Then torque the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds. And they go in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
