Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod. This is a 2003 Honda Civic. It's the same for the 2001 to 2005 Honda Civic, as well as a couple of other Honda models. We show you this on the driver side, but the passenger side is the same procedure. Items you'll need include a new outer tie rod or tie rods from 1AAuto.com, 17mm to 24mm sockets, wrenches and ratchet, a torque wrench, breaker bar or tire iron, small hammer, needle nose pliers, and some penetrating oil.
Remove the front wheel held on by 19mm lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap, you'll need to remove that. Just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen your lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Raise and support the vehicle. Now, remove the rest of the lug nuts the rest of the way, and the wheel and tire.
The outer tie rod is right here; 17mm nuts hold it in here. Remove the cotter pin. Then there's a 21mm lock nut, which we're going to use a nice 21mm wrench. As you're looking at it, you're turning it clockwise. We're just going to turn that about a quarter of a turn. If, when you turn this lock nut, you also turn the inner tire rod, just make note of it so that you can turn it back for the same amount, just so that you can get yourself in a good preliminary alignment. You will want to have your vehicle aligned after you do this repair.
Remove the cotter pin. Normally, the pin should drive out easily, but it's giving us a hard time. We're going to use a little bit of penetrating oil. Let it sit for a bit. You may have to use a set of these cutting pliers. We really get half of the cotter pin off. A lot of times, if you've got it off and pretty well damaged, you can just pull the nut off and it will shear it right off as it comes off. Give the steering knuckle a few good taps with the hammer to break the tie rod free. Now, you can just take your tie rod right off.
Old part from the vehicle, new tie rod in from 1A Auto. You can see it's exactly the same. Take the castle nut off. New part comes with a new lock nut and a cotter pin. If you like, you can grab hold of your inner tie rod, free up your existing lock nut, and take it off. Not necessary though if you can put the new tie rod on and use the existing lock nut that's on there already. Put the tie rod in. It should go right around to about where it was.
Reinstall your tie rod. Put the castle nut on. Tighten the castle nut to 32-ft/lbs. Then tighten it any more you need to get the cotter pin through the hole in the tie rod. I can see the hole there. Probably need to go another 16th of a turn. Insert the cotter pin.
Use a pair of piers and bend it over. Appropriate size wrench to hold the tie rod; in this case, it's an 18mm. Then 24mm to get our lock nut on the back. Tighten it up.
Put your wheel back in place. Start your lug nuts. We'll tighten them preliminarily and then torque them when the vehicle is back down on the ground. Tighten your lug nuts 80-ft lbs and just cross in the pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you front sway bar link replacement. This is a 2003 Honda Civic, it's pretty much the same for a 2001 to 2005 Civic, as well as some other Honda vehicles. We show you on the driver side, but the passenger side is the exact same procedure, and if one side is broken on your car, most likely replacing the other side is a good idea as well.
Items you'll need include new stabilizer link or links from 1AAuto.com, 14mm wrench, a 19mm socket and breaker bar or tire iron, 5mm hex bit, ratchet and extension, and, as you'll see, we used a reciprocating saw, so you might find that you'll need one too.
We'll remove the front wheel, held on by four 19mm lug nuts. If you have a different style hubcap you'll need to remove that, but just use a breaker bar or your tire iron and loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground. Now raise and support the vehicle. Now remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and the wheel and tire.
For this repair, you want to make sure that you have your vehicle level. You need to raise up the front of the vehicle and support both sides, and you can turn the wheel. Your link is right here.
First thing we're going to do is just use a wire brush and some penetrating oil to try and clean off these threads as much as we can to make it easier to get apart. 14mm wrench, put it on here, and turn counterclockwise. It looks like this is already spinning, so 5mm hex socket. You may want to make sure that your bit's in there, hammer 'til you drive it in.
We've gotten the bottom one loosened up, put the wrench on the top one, and then we'll do the same thing, we'll drive the 5mm hex socket in. We've got it loosened up, and what's happened is what happens a lot on these. These lock-nuts actually bind up more and more as you get them off, and they get harder and harder, and then the 5mm hex strips out. What most shops do is they don't even bother with the nuts, they just cut these off right from the beginning.
Using a torch can be intimidating, so we're going to just show you how to use a reciprocating saw. We've got a set of locking pliers on there just to hold it in place a little bit. Now we'll just cut it off. Now the upper one, again, holding it with my locking pliers.
Here's the new part from 1A Auto. I like this design a little better since it has the hex on the end, but also has bolt head, so you can hold it with a wrench on the backside. We'll go and install that.
Put it in and start the nut on the backside. Put the bottom into the control arm, thread your nut on, and the technical spec on these is 29 foot-pounds. It's easy enough to get a torque wrench on this one, but getting a torque wrench on the inner one is pretty difficult.
Put your wheel back in place, start your lug nuts, we'll tighten them preliminarily, and then torque them when the vehicle's back down on the ground. Then tighten your lug nuts, 80 foot-pounds and just cross in the pattern.
Any time you do work on your brakes, make sure you pump the pedal. Get a nice firm pedal before you test drive the vehicle.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Hi. I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi everyone. Sue here from 1A Auto. And today on our '06 Honda Element I'm going to show you how to install an upper control arm that is an adjustable type. The manufacturer is non-adjustable. If you need this part or any other part for your car click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
19 millimeter socket and we're going to break free the lug nuts. We've got the pressure of the vehicle on the tire still so it doesn't turn. I use the two post lifts. At home you can use the jack and jack stands. I'm going to take all the lug nuts off and remove the tire. I'm going to spray down all the nuts and bolts to the upper trailing arm.
I'm going to dismount the ABS sensor harness plate. Just pinch those plastic ears, slide it down and then I'm going to pinch this side, so the same. There we go. So the bottom air piece that comes out on this control arm, this is a welded nut on that bracket piece that is part of the drill arm so you just have to remove the bolt on this lower part. I have a 17 millimeter wrench on there and if this doesn't work we might have to break out the air.
So I'm going to take my 17 millimeter impact socket and I'm going to break this bolt out. I'm going to try and get my long ratchet wrench in there with a 17 millimeter socket. See if I can break this free. There we go. It's so rusted in here. Here goes nothing. I think I'm going to add a smidge of heat to that. We cannot break the suspension nut free so I'm going just heat it up a little bit because we have to reuse that. So let's see if we can heat it up enough to free it.
Now with my 17 ratchet wrench and a regular 17 wrench. Don't forget that's hot. For me it is. So you can see that the body, the body goes like this over the bolt so you can't get the bolt out. But the good news is once you keep working the bolt down the bushing you can just pry it. The bushing moves with it so you can get the bolt out. Here we have the new adjustable upper control arm for the rear on this '06 Honda Element and it came from 1A Auto.
Here is the factory. You can see it's an '06 so this thing is 12 years old and the bushing's worn out really quite a bit. I mean it held on for 12 years. That's doing pretty good. So it has the bracket for the ABS. They solved that on the adjustable by putting two threaded holes and it comes with a kit with a bracket in it. Two mounting bolts for that and a new nut for this bracket because this is a welded nut from the factory so you'll reuse a locking nut bracket.
If you need this part or any other part for your car click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com. So now that we got the upper control arm out and we have the new one we're going to install. It's adjustable so to adjust it to the best that we can before we get it to the alignment shop I'm just going to line it up with the original one and lock the jam nuts in place. So that way I can get there and it should be close enough.
So it's reverse thread on different angles. The other thing I'm going to do before I assemble this and line it up and everything is I'm going to take care of it by putting some anti-seize on the threads because I don't want the poor alignment guy getting this in two years and having this frozen. That defeats the point of replacing all of this. Plus it's a good idea, now you can see exactly how long that bolt is. Heaven forbid it's a small one and you backed it out to here, unaware that you only had two more threads left.
That won't support that. That will snap off going down the road so let's fill that up with some nice anti-seizing paste and then we'll line it up, measure it and install it. I like to use the copper because it has a higher temp rating to it. Not that this part gets hot but ... So now I can thread that in and the jam nut will be lined with the anti-seize. Let's do the top half. And just like any suspension parts, sometimes tie rod ends, adjustable control arms like this they have opposite thread.
Usually lefty is loosening it up but you have have opposite threads for a reason and that's why because this is the adjuster in there so these two in the vehicle. Solid mounted and when you have to break it to adjust it and pull it in and out they have to be opposite threads. Okay, I'm going to break that jam nut free. There we go. Our brain says no. It's going the opposite way of what I'm used to.
So to assure that I'm going to be as lined up as accurately as possible before that goes to the alignment shop I just put a punch in all through the top there and line those holes up. And I'm going to use the bolt to line this up. Well I'm pretty there so let me show you what I did. So holding this, the ear tab you can turn this and you'll see that the alignment on that moves. So I'm going to turn it the opposite way and get the threads, the bolt holes to line up.
I like that right there. That's as close as I'm going to get it to the factory setting so the alignment person can adjust this and set it to specs. So I made sure that I lined up my mounting bolts for the ABS bracket and now I'm just going to snug down on the jam nuts because I don't want this to move while it's in, getting installed. Now I'm getting ready to install my upper control arm. Line those bushings right up, see if I can get that in.
Now the bolt came out this way. I don't see pros and cons to it so it's easier for me to put it back in this way. I don't have to move anything around. And now I can put the nut on that. I'm going to grab and mount this up. All right, I'm going to use my body. Take a hammer and tap that in. There we go. Now the bottom bolt has a new nut that 1A supplies. Then we have the actual bracket for this. I'm going to put that on last because I'm going ...
Now that this is mounted once I tighten these up I'm going to grab my wrench and really tighten up those jam nuts. So I got my 17 socket and 17 wrench and I'm just going to tighten this inner bolt tight as I can because I can't get an air gun in there and there is no specifications for torque. Now I'm going to move out to the outer bolt. So I lowered the car down on a jack stand and I put the jack stand right under that lower body support.
So I can get the suspension, you want to tighten the bushings not with it like this because you want it to be on where the weight would go down the road with the proper load on it and the load means the weight of the vehicle on this particular section of the car. So if I was to tighten it in the air it would be like this and the bushing would be off at an angle so when you lower it, it would be twisting that bushing and that causes premature wear.
The new nut is an 18 millimeter and I'm going to use my air gun. I'm just going to tighten this up because there is not torque specs. Now we're ready to raise it back up and we'll tighten up the jam nuts and mount the ABS sensor. So now I'm going to tighten the jam nuts and the big adjuster in the middle here is 1-1/4 as you can see. And I got to hole that steady. I want it to be lined up properly for the ABS wire bracket.
So the outside jam nuts are 1-1/16 and I'm going to make sure I'm going to go the same way. It's very important to tighten jam nuts before you drive a vehicle. Perfect. So now I'm going to mount the ABS plate and it's not the ABS plate, it's the harness for the sensor and it comes with the two little flat mounting bolts and these are 8 millimeter head. So once I get them started I'm going to snug those up. Make sure you put it on facing the right side, the correct side because of the way that the bracket's designed.
It will bottom out on the other side. Like I said that's an 8 millimeter socket. Snug those right up. Now you can see how this bracket's going to fit. The old guide pins are going to snap right in and there we go. Now let's put the lug nuts back on. It's a 19 millimeter socket. I'm just going to tighten them all down and then I can lower it down and torque it. So I'm going to torque the wheels to manufacturers spec which is 80 foot pounds. Always do it in a star pattern. And double-check.
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