2001 Acura MDX Rear Semi-Metallic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA10598

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

If your vehicle's equipped with a locking lug nut, you're going to want to have it ready. Get it to fit on there. These are 19mm. Take our breaker bar, loosen them up a half turn. Once you loosen your lug nuts, raise and support your vehicle. We're going to use a lift for this so it will make it easier for you to see what we're doing, but you can do this on jack stands in your driveway. These are pretty loose now.

Going to take my socket in my hand and undo them with my hands. When I'm doing the last one, just make sure you've got hold of the wheel. It might come loose. This one came off pretty easy, and remove the two 12mm slide pin bolts. You get the top one loose and get the bottom one loose. I'm going to switch to a ratcheting wrench. So put these two slide pin bolts so you don't lose them. I've got a bungee cord here. Just going to place it right there for now. I'm going to work this caliper off.

If it doesn't come off very easily, you can get a large flat-headed screwdriver or pry bar and pry it off. I'm going to take the caliper and our bungee cord and I'm just going to wrap it around the suspension just because we don't want it to fall or hang on this rubber brake line. You don't need to undo the caliper for the brake line. I'm just going to check these slide pins to make sure they're free. They should move fairly easily in and out just like that. If the rubber boot comes off, that's okay, you can just push it back up.

Now we can get the brake pads out. You can use a small flat-bladed screwdriver or a pry bar. I'm going to use a pry bar. Just work them out. Same for the inside. Next, remove the 14mm caliper bolts, caliper bracket bolts. There's a bottom one here and a top one here. 14mm wrench. If they're really stuck, take a rubber mallet or a dead blow. I'm going to hit on the wrench. Those free, I'm going to switch to a ratcheting 14mm wrench.

Those are pretty loose. Use your other hand to hold on to the bracket so it doesn't fall. I'm going to take our bolts that we took out that were holding the bracket on, and thread them back into the bracket so we don't lose them. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant oil around the hub here and on these screws that we need to remove that are holding the brake rotor to the hub. I'm going to use a large Phillips head socket attachment on a 3/8 dry ratchet to remove these. So make sure your parking brake is released.

Parking brake is inside this part of the brake rotor. There might be a rust ridge in there that will catch on the brake shoes. This rotor should come off without too much effort. If it gets really stuck, you can put 8mm x 1.25 bolts in here to help push it off. Before I put the bolts in here, I'm going to spray some rust penetrant oil on the threads. The bolts that I'm using have a 12mm head, so I'm going to use my ratcheting wrench. I'm going to go evenly on each side. Now I've got it free. You can see that's your parking brake assembly, and sometimes they just get held up. A rust ridge builds up in here and the shoes get held up on it.

So now's a good time to inspect your parking brake assembly and replace any parts as necessary. These pads are in really good shape, or shoes. They've got plenty of material on them. Especially on an automatic car—this doesn't get used very much. There is some penetrating oil that got in here from spraying down the hub. I'm going to take some brake parts cleaner at this time and just spray it out. I'm going to make sure these pads stay nice and clean.

Here we have our old rotor and pads from our vehicle. Here is the new rotor and pads from 1aauto.com. You can see that the old pad comes with backing plates and shims as do the new pads. Comes with the wear indicators. These pads are getting pretty thin than the original ones. Now's a good time to replace them. So the rotors are identical. Same amount of lug holes, same screw holes, and same pusher thread holes. Inside it has the same parking brake setup hub. These should fit great on your car and give you great stopping power.

We're also going to switch over this rubber plug. We're going to put it in our new rotor. Just going to push it out from the back. Almost got away from me there. Take our new one, push it in and you're all set. If your hub is really rusty, you should take a wire brush and just knock some of the rust off. This one's in pretty good shape, so I'm going to leave it alone. We'll take our rotor. Going to put it on inside out. Take brake parts cleaner and clean it. Clean the inside, because that's where your parking brake shoes will ride. Now I can flip it over.

We're going to line up these holes with the holes in the hub. So the reason why you clean these brake rotors before you use them is because when they're shipped, they're shipped with a light coating of oil or Cosmoline to prevent surface rust. And you don't want that into your brake pads. I'm going to take our small Phillips head screws here and reinstall them. I'm just going to go until they get tight. All these do is hold the rotor in place while you're working so the rotor's not flopping around while you're trying to. With the rotor installed the correct way, I'm going to take my brake parts cleaner and finish cleaning it. If there's really heavy stuff, you can take a rag, wipe it down.

The wear on this inside pad looks a little bit uneven. It's got a bit of a slope to it. It's not straight. It should be nice and straight, so that typically means that one of these caliper slides may be sticking. This one's a little hard to move. This one's fairly easy to move. I'm going to pull one out. Start with this one. If you need to, you can take a little pick, carefully pop this boot over it. That pin looks a little bit dry. I'm going to wipe it off with a rag. Make sure you don't lose the little rubber piece that's on the end of it.

Take some brake caliper grease and grease it up. Reinsert it back into the caliper. Those can take a little bit of force, usually because there's some air stuck in there. So then what I'll do is squish it in and use my pick and sort of let some of the air out and work that boot back up into the groove. That's got a lot smoother movement on there now. The reason why it's pushing out is probably an air pocket in there. You can just open this up and squish it down. That's okay, we'll push that back together when we put the caliper on. We'll do the same thing for this one.

The boot already came off the little lip here. Take a flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the brake pad clips. These are typically stainless and they don't really rust, just get full of dirt. So we're going to pop them out and clean them. I like to use the old box to keep all the dirt and grit and brake parts cleaner in one place, because we're going to spray them with brake parts cleaner. Take a wire brush, scrub where the pads ride. Take a paper towel and just wipe them down. If you want, you can take your wire brush and clean right here, some of the rust out. A little brake parts cleaner. Same to the other side.

Now we can reinstall our clips. They just snap back into place. Reinstall the caliper bracket on the car. Hold it in place with one hand and take my bolts. Might have to wiggle it around. This one went in pretty easy. I'm just going to thread it down by hand. I'm going to take our inside pad. I'm going to spray it with some brake parts cleaner. I just want to make sure that the surface is clean and it doesn't have any grease or oil on it. I'm going to take a little bit of grease, caliper grease, and put it on the edge. I'm going to start in the bottom slot and push it up against the rotor. That's a little too much. You don't need much. Seat it in the lower tab. Slide it in the upper one.

Before we reinstall the caliper, we need to compress this piston back into the brake caliper, so I'm going to take the old brake pad. I'm going to take our C-clamp and get it sort of in place. It will be a little tricky with one hand. Now I'm just going to rest the rotor on the top of the dust shield. I'll hold it with one hand and just slowly thread it in so it compresses the piston into the caliper. I'm just going to go 'til the pad bottoms out on the edge of the caliper just like that. We can undo our bungee cord. Also take it off the suspension so I don't forget it.

Make sure these pads are nice and tight against the rotor. I'm going to roll our caliper down. You may just need to push this pin in. These pins have little flat spots that will line up with the caliper. That way, as you're threading in your slide pin bolts, they won't spin. You just want to make sure that those are lined up correctly.

Now I've got these caliper slide bolts started by hand. I take my 12mm ratchet wrench. Use a 14mm socket and extension. Torque the top caliper bolt to 41 foot-pounds. Just a 14mm socket and the torque wrench on the bottom one. Watch out for your ABS wire. You may need to move it out of the way. Torque it to 41 foot-pounds. Torque the caliper slide pin bolts to 27 foot-pounds with a 12mm socket.

Reinstall the wheel. Thread the lug nuts on by hand. 19mm socket ratchet. I'm going to snug these lug nuts. The torque wrench set to 80 foot-pounds, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern. Before you drive the vehicle, gently press the brake pedal about 1/3 of the way repeatedly until it gets hard. Once you feel the brake pedal become hard, the job is complete and you're ready to drive the vehicle.

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