2013 Honda Pilot Rear Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Parking Shoes TRQ BKA28062

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

In this video, we are going to be replacing the rear brakes on a 2010 Honda Pilot. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1aauto.com. All right, we're going to break these lug nuts free before we put the vehicle up. We're going to use a 22 mm socket and a breaker bar. All right, now we're going to take off the lug nuts. Now we're going to remove the wheel.

I'm going to take the caliper bolts out. I'm going to use a 12 mm wrench to break those free. Now I'm going to use some channel locking pliers to hold the caliper pin from spinning while I loosen this bolt up. I'm going to use a 12 mm socket and a ratchet to make this speed along a little bit quicker, while I'm still holding it with my channel locks. And pull those bolts out. Then I'm going to grab my caliper, twist it a little bit and pull it out. I'll take my bungee cord, wrap it around here. I'll wrap it around here a couple times, and then hook this onto the other side to keep the tension off the brake hose.

Next, I'll pull the pads off one at a time. Next I'm going to pull this caliper bracket off. I'm going to use a 17 mm wrench. Get those bolts free. You could also use a 17 mm socket and a breaker bar. Then I'll use a 17 mm socket and ratchet. Then I can spin them out by hand. Then we'll take the bottom one out. Spin it out by hand. Pull the bracket out. Keep in mind there's these little washers that go in right here. One of ours fell out when we were taking it out, taking out the bracket. It's some kind of like little shim, so you're going to want to put those back when you put the bracket back on.

Next we're going to take these screws out, Phillips head screws. We're going to use this impact driver. What you want to do is make sure it's in loosen mode, so what you do is push it in and turn it to the left. Then it's in loosen mode. So we're going to push with our left hand. We're going to be almost like throttling it back, like on a motorcycle. Hold it like that, tight to the left, and then just tap it with a hammer, and that loosens the screw that holds the rotor on, and we'll do the same for this. You just tap it, just like that. Now we can use a screwdriver and just pull them out. We can grab our rotor.

If you have to, if your rotor doesn't come off very easily, you can tap in these areas right here with a hammer. You can use a bigger hammer if you have to, and just hit it and it should pop off. As you can see, these are our old brakes. These are our new brakes from 1aauto.com. Looking at the pads, you can see the pads very similar. They have the same shape, same friction material. This one has a squealer on it. The new brake pads come with a universal squealer that you install in the same location as the old one. We'll take the brakes, find the little location where the squealer goes, and we'll take it and just press it on, just like that. Now it matches the rotors.

As you can see, the rotors are the same. They have the same machine tools and everything is the same. The rotor hat is the same. Underneath here, this is where the parking brake shoes go on the inside, and that's the same. Get yours at 1aauto.com, and you'll be ready to rock and roll. This little cover right here, little rubber grommet, you're going to take a straight blade screwdriver, get it in underneath here, pry it up, just like that. We're going to transfer it over to our new brakes right here.

Take the same straight blade screwdriver and just push it down in there. Now we're going to clean the old caliper bracket. Take a wire brush and wipe it off here, just like that. We can take this caliper hardware out, clean underneath here. This one is really not that bad. So, put that back down. You can do the same with the other side.

Now we're going to pull out these caliper guide pins. Sometimes the rubber gets stuck on here, so we'll just take our straight blade screwdriver, try to get in behind here, just like that. Then you can pull the pin out. You can use some brake parts cleaner on here, clean the pin off. You can use some brake parts cleaner in the hole for the guide pin, and we can get in there and clean some of that out. Then we can drain it out. Then we'll take our caliper grease and spread it on the pin, and then slide the guide pin back in just like that, and make sure the seal goes all the way around the pin, and do the same for the other side.

All right, before we put our rotor on, we're going to want to clean up this hub area with a wire brush. There's a little bit of rust on here, so we'll just clean up around here, get some of the rust off. All right, we're going to put the rotor backwards first. Then we're going to take some brake parts cleaner, clean the back side of the rotor, and then wipe it. There is a protective coating on the rotor that prevents them from rusting. Then we'll flip it over. We're going to align these two holes up with these two screw holes right like that. We'll do the same with this side. Take the brake parts cleaner and wipe it off. Now we can take a screwdriver and install these screws that hold the rotor on. Just tighten them pretty loose, not too tight, just snug. That's good enough.

Right, before I put my bracket on I want to put this washer on, but I wanted to stick so I'm just going to use a little bit of brake grease right there. When I put this on, it'll just stick, just like that. Then I can install my brake caliper bracket and the bolts. Now we can torque these caliper bolts to 65 ft-lbs using a 17 mm socket and torque wrench.

Next we're going to install our inboard pad. We're going to put a little bit of grease on these ears of the brake pad, and then a little bit on the back side. We'll put that on like so. This vehicle, the squealer goes on the inside one. Then we'll do the same for the front side, put a little bit of grease on the ears, and then a little bit of grease on the back. Some more on the ears, and then it's good. Stick this on the outside.

Next we'll take the bungee cord off the caliper. Take that out of the way. Flip the caliper over. Stick the old brake pad on there. We're going to use this caliper tool. You can get these from 1aauto.com. Loosen this up. You can tighten this down slowly; it's going to compress the piston into the caliper. When that's doing that, it's pushing fluid from here all the way up to the master cylinder and into the reservoir, and because we didn't break the seal, crack the line free, you will not have to bleed the system after doing these. Now we can reinstall the caliper.

Now we can install the caliper bolts. Sometimes you go to twist the pins to get them to line up properly. Now we're going to torque these bolts down to 27 ft-lbs with our socket and our torque wrench. Now I'm going to reinstall the wheel. Install the lug nuts. We'll snug those all the way down, and then we'll lower the car. We're going to torque these lug nuts now with a 22 mm socket and a torque wrench.

You're going to want to torque these in a star pattern so that the wheel gets installed correctly up against the rotor to prevent warpage. The next thing we want to do before we drive the vehicle is we want to pump the brake pedal. As you can see, it almost goes all the way to the floor, and then you pump it a couple times and it should be good. What that's doing is, there's an air gap between the caliper and the brake pads, so when you're squeezing that, that squeezes that air gap away to where it's supposed to be, and then you'll be good to go.

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