2008 Hyundai Elantra Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit TRQ BKA10560

Hey, friends. It's Len here at 1A Auto. Today, I'm working on a 2007 Hyundai Elantra. I'm going to show you how to do a front brake job. It's going to be a fairly easy job. I want to be the guy that shows you how to do it. If you need these or any other parts, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com. Thanks.

We're going to take off our five lug nuts here with a 21mm socket. There we are. Now, we're going to continue taking off the other four. Put this on here, take off our last lug nut, hubcap. There we go. We've got our 14mm. Going to remove this, and I'm going to remove this right here, and then we'll move along.

There's one. We'll do the same to the top one. I'm just going to start this back in real quick just so the caliper can't flop around just in case. Bolt number two, perfect. Now, we're clear to start getting this caliper off of here. To remove the bleeder screw, I'm going to use a socket that looks like this. It's called a twisty socket. You can see that the inside there is like rifled. It's kind of twisted. Want to hammer on this socket onto the bleeder screw. It's going to twist, twist, twist, and then when I go to remove it, it's going to twist even more, gripping into the bleeder screw as much as it can and hopefully turning it and breaking it free. That's my plan. Let's give it a try.

Just have it on there. Just going to take a little hammer. Make some noise. I'm going to use my ratchet and put it on there. Just grab it real quick. Here we go. Just going to give it a couple of little shakes here, see if I can break it free. I think we got it. Oh yeah, beautiful. We know that's freed up. I'm just going to see if I can snug it. It's probably not going to work with the twisty socket. There we go. I'm just going to plug it up. I'll grab a regular socket. Just get this snugged up again. That's going to be very useful for when it comes time to push this caliper back.

When you push the caliper back, you always want to make sure that that bleeder screw is open. You don't want to force fluid back up through your lines, up through your ABS if you have ABS in your vehicle, which this one does. We have an ABS wire, and then, of course, up into the master cylinder. It'll just cause issues down the line and why pay an extra couple of thousand dollars to replace all of that when all you have to do is just loosen this to push back your caliper?

I opened this up just to make sure that it opens up. Now, I'm going to remove this. Grab my small pry bar. I got my small pry bar. I'm just going to see about getting that out of there. While we've got it off we can take a peek, make sure that there's no fluid coming out from in between here. That's your seal, this is your piston, the muscle of your brakes. While it's apart, you could also take a peek at your brake pads. These brake pads are extremely kneaded. They're separating right there. That's super dangerous, so I would definitely recommend replacing those if you're at this point and yours look anything like that. Caliper slider, that's frozen, so that would need servicing. This one is frozen, same thing. Both of those would need servicing at the same time. Boy, can of worms here. Anyway, let's move along.

One of the next steps that we should do, grab a lug nut. Just put it on there a few threads. You don't have to put it on all the way or anything like that. That's just to help make it so if this rotor comes free, it doesn't fall down, hit you in the foot or your face if you're underneath the vehicle. Now, what we're going to do is we're going to take off these bracket bolts right here. They're 17mm, so you can use your ratchet or your air gun, whatever you've got, but it's 17.

Bolt number one. You're going to hold the bracket, bolt number two. Take our bracket off and there we are. Let's get this rotor off of here. I'm going to hold onto it. I'm going to take off my lug nut. There we are. Now we've removed the rotor.

Here we are friends. A quick product comparison for you. Over here, we have our old parts off of our 2007 Hyundai Elantra. We just pulled them apart. As you can tell, these are complete garbage. There's a reason why we're replacing them. Over here, we're going to install some quality 1A Auto parts. I just wanted to show you the comparison. As you can tell, the pads are the same exact size. That's always a plus. We got our little brake squealer on there. That let's us know when they're getting one low. Right here, let's hold it right up. You can tell that the rotor is the same exact diameter. That's always key. The back side, everything looks the exact same. You can get your cooling vents that run along here, they go right through the middle of the rotor. Five lug holes, very important, and here's all your cooling fins.

As you could tell, we have a quality part right here. I wouldn't feel bad installing this part into our vehicle, so I'm going to go ahead and do it. If you need this part or any other part, you can always check us out at 1aauto.com. Thanks.

We've got our caliper bracket off. Now it's time to get to the hard part. We're going to take these pads off first. There's one. There's the other one. There's the pad that I wanted to show you. Look at that. This right here, super dangerous. I'll show you why. You're driving, vibrations, you're stepping on the brake, it's getting super hot. That just separated, easy peasy. You know what would have happened then? This goes shooting out, possibly gets stuck in between your rotor and your bracket, or even worse, this piece of metal right here. That's going to start hitting up against your rotor as it's coming around.

If you step on your brake again, this gets pushed into the middle here and then it gets jammed in between your rotor and your caliper bracket. Now, you're going to have a real issue. This wheel is going to lock up and you're going to be finding yourself on the side of the road, hopefully safely, but on the side of the road. You ever see a pad that's coming apart like that, please just replace it.

We got our 10s off. There's nothing special about these 10s. You don't have to worry about mixing them up. Oh no. We'll just set those aside. Now what we're going to do, because these are frozen, this is moving a little bit, this one is moving not at all, I'll put in a little bit of penetrant and I'm going to watch my eyes. I'm wearing hand protection, eye protection. You don't want any of this in your eyes or on your skin. Be safe. Safety first is the number one concern here at 1A Auto. We want to show you how to do it, but we also want you to be safe. Just work this around. These boots right here, they kind of go inside, and what's going to hold it inside the bracket there is actually the caliper slider. I'll see if I can get this one out and I'll show you what I mean. I'm going to grab some pliers and we'll come right back.

I went and I grabbed some pliers. I'm going to take my small screwdriver, just like I did the other side. Try to get it in there. Spray it and we'll let the penetrant do its job. We'll work it around a little bit here. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to try to use my pliers, grab onto this. I'm going to see if I can pull it out. Get the boot off of there. There we are. This right here, grab a rag. This right here is a vibration dampening boot. It's a little piece of rubber. If yours is missing or swollen or damaged, you're going to want to replace that. You can usually get these separate.

Right here, this is a little channel where the outside of this boot rides. If this channel is all munched up or if it's got a whole bunch of rust or anything in there, you're going to want to make sure you clean that up. It's always a good habit to clean it up, and also, of course, put a little bit of lubricant in there. That'll help keep moisture out and keep this moving freely so you don't get something like this down the line.

I'm going to show you how this boot comes out. I'm going to stick my little pocket screwdriver in here and pull it out. There's a little lip right here, comes out. There's a little lip inside this caliper bracket where that sits into, so that's what causing this to not come out. It's got a little lip there and when the slider is in, it's causing the boot to stay stuck up inside the caliper bracket. What we're going to do now, we've got this all nice and sitting in there, the penetrant I mean. It's sitting in there. It's hopefully doing its job. I'll just put in one more little squirt. The more the merrier. There we are. Let it do its job.

Here's something that we can try to do. If we wanted to, we could try to apply a little bit of heat down around this area because essentially this is what you're looking at except inside. All inside this area, or this hole I guess you'd say, except on the other side, it's all rusted up and it's causing this pin to be frozen. The pin can't do its thing. Normally, it's supposed to be able to slide, it's called a caliper slider. This can't slide. Hey, it can't even turn, really. That's really bad. There's something in there that's blocking it up. Probably some rust or whatever.

What I'm going to do is I'm going to apply a little bit of heat here, and what that's going to do is it's going to try to help get some of that penetrant deep down inside of there. I don't want to go so hot that I'm going to melt the rubber boot. Unless you got extra boots, you got extra boots, well, you do you boo boo. I don't personally, so I'm just going to try to heat down here. Get it hot so it works this way and it's going to try to soak all that penetrant down in.

Here we go. I've got my little butane torch. I'm going to move my pad. We don't necessarily need to work on something that might be flammable. I'm just going to heat it up right here. Let's hold it up.

It's nice and warm now. I'm going to let that try to soak in some of that penetrant. We'll give it maybe a minute or so and we'll come back to it.

Take some pliers, or even pliers, whatever you got. Pliers pliers. Just going to grab onto it, see if I can give it a little spin. Oh, there we go. Feels like it's getting easier now. Maybe I can try my smaller pliers now.

Nice. I like it. Now what I'm going to do is I'm just going to grab a socket that fits this and I'll use that to turn this. It'll be even easier. This is just helping getting the penetrant in there. I know it's not unscrewing anything. You don't have to put that in the comments below there. Now, I'm just trying to grab it, twist, and pull. There we are. Nice and warm, I can feel it. Wipe it off. As you can tell, this isn't really in the poorest of conditions, so I'm not really super worried about it. I would like to clean it up, though. I'll take it to a wire wheel. I'll get that all nice and cleaned up.

First, we'll get the boot off of here. There we are. Take a look at these. Make sure they're not ripped or torn or anything like that. If they're ripped, obviously, you'd want to replace them. It's not going to keep anything out of there. Both of those look good. Awesome. I'm going to get these cleaned up real quick with the wire brush, or wire wheel, whatever you've got, and then I'm going to go ahead and show you how to clean this up.

Now, it's time to clean up this caliper bracket. Inside here there's holes and this is where these slide. They're supposed to go in there, slide nice and free. I can barely get this in there. I want to try to clean these out. I'm going to use something like this. It's called a bore brush. Just a whole bunch of little pricklies. I got my little collection bucket, my safety glasses, of course, hand protection. I'm using a chemical. I'm going to use some parts cleaner. It's aerosol based, so as I spray in it's going to be trying to spray stuff out, so you want to make sure you're wearing safety glasses and hand protection and keep your mouth closed.

There we are. I got plenty in there now. I'm going to use my bore brush. I'm just going to go in like this. Apparently this thing is on turbo today. You can do that as long as you like. I could probably for days and it'll probably still be cleaning it out. As you can tell, everything is pretty rusted, so it's definitely doing its job. Let's do this one real quick.

Make sure if you get any parts cleaner on your hands you have your hands nice and clean. You want to rinse it off ASAP, super important. You can use something like a little hose if you want to on these. A lot of them come with it. Just gives you a little bit more direct fire. There we are. Once again, I'm going to watch out for my eyes.

Shake this out. Now, let's clean out these rubber boots. We got to get all of that cruddy stuff out of there. I'm just going to take a rag, try to put it all the way through if I can. Pull it out, maybe. There we go. Now, I'm just going to stretch my boot. I'm just going to go like this on it, try to work the rag around all the grooves in my boot. Take a peek inside. Looks pretty great to me. We'll do the same to the other one.

Now, it's time to clean up the bracket. Where we're going to clean is where these 10s go on, and that's also where the pad is going to ride. You want to make sure that you don't have any rot or rust buildup where those 10s are supposed to be. We're going to make a nice metal color there. Get rid of all the rust. We want to be nice and clean. I'm going to use this quality tool right here. It's a performance tool. It's available at 1aauto.com. I'm going to go ahead and skin it. Wearing my safety glasses and hand protection, of course.

Now, it's time to clean up our 10s. Hold it over your recycling receptacle. Give it a little spray. That soak in, do both sides if you want. Now, you can use something like sandpaper. You could use a brush. You can do whatever you want. You just need this to be clean. You do you boo boo.

We've got our 10s cleaned up pretty good. They look decent enough. No big chunks. A little discoloration, but I'm really not worried about that. Next what you want to do is you want to put some sort of like anti-vibration lubricant behind there. Now, I'm just going to use a little bit of brake caliper lubricant here. Something kind of high temperature so when you step on the brakes, creates friction, that's how you stop. Friction creates heat, so you want something that's not going to liquefy under heat, like if you tried using Vaseline or something like that. That's just going to basically turn almost to water and then liquefy and get in between your pads and your rotors and probably cause friction issues. I like to go with something like that.

Now, we're going to put on our 10s just like this. It's important to know that you don't need to have any of that lubricant on the outside here where the pads ride on your 10s. This is supposed to be nice and dry, nice and clean. The reason for that is because if you did decide to put on some kind of stuff like this and then dirt and debris and whatever your driving on down the road gets in between there, it could cause your pads to get stuck. We don't want that. We don't want to be doing this brake job again in 10,000 miles or something. That looks good the way it is. We have our sliders. We have our slider boots. Let's get those put in.

Now, I'm going to use some more of my brake caliper lube. I'm just going to go ahead and put it in here. Get everything nice and lubricated. Now, I'm going to take my boot, I'm going to start it in on one corner, just kind of work it in. You can use your little screwdriver if you have one and if you want to use it. My 10 back on there. Let's work it around. It's in its groove. It's not coming off. We've got our caliper slider. Let's make sure that's lubricated.

It's important to remember that I showed you that little groove right there. That's where this boot rides on. I like to put a little bit of grease up in there. I don't need to get it all around the channel because I'll show you why. I'm just going to take this and slide it in, and I'm going to rotate, rotate it as I go. It's going to get the lubricant all worked in there. Now, I'm going to keep rotating. All that stuff that I put in that one little spot in that groove just worked its way around that whole boot. There's going to be no water getting past that. Booyah. Now, let's do the same to this side.

Right back here is where our backing plate is supposed to be, so you can imagine that there is one. If there was one, you'd want to make sure that there isn't a whole bunch of rust flaking up on it. If there is, it could hit up against your rotor or fall down between your rotor and your hub here, which could cause issues down the line. Just make sure that it's nice and clean. You got off all the rust that might flake off, cause an issue. There is not too much left of this particular vehicle. What we want to do now is clean up this hub. Right here, there's a broken bolt. Those bolts are, generally speaking, hold your rotor on so they don't wobble around while you're working. It's broken, it's missing. It is what it is. I'm just going to go ahead and clean this up. I'm going to use my performance tool here, my little blade, or sanding disc.

I'm going to get this hub nice and cleaned up all the way around, wearing my safety glasses, of course. Now, we'll continue. I've got the hub all nice and cleaned up, as much as I could with that nice sanding disc that I had. The only problem is that I can't get behind the lug nuts here and the hub, so what I'm going to do, I'm going to take a little bit of parts cleaner, my little scrubby brush, I got my receptacle down there, and safety glasses on, of course. I'm just going to go ahead and clean this up. Give it a little scrub. There we are. Now, I'm going to blast it again, standing back.

Awesome. Now, what we can do is wait for it to dry, and then we're doing to put on some Never-Seez and then the rotor. It's always important to clean off your rotor before you go ahead and install it. When it's being packaged, it's coated with a special film. Helps prevent it from corroding or rusting or whatever just during shipping and hanging out on the shelf waiting for you to go ahead and buy it. I just spray a little bit of parts cleaner right onto my rag. Give it a little scrub. That's nice. Perfect. Let's go ahead and install this.

Here we are. We've got a nice, clean hub. We're going to go ahead and put on a little Copper Never-Seez. It's going to go in between the hub and the rotor. That looks pretty great. We'll take our rotor, fit it right on there. Take my lug nut, I'm going to try to put it on here as far as I can. Hopefully this will help keep the rotor from moving around too, too much and/or falling down and hitting my foot while I'm working. Safety.

Now, we're going to go ahead and install our caliper bracket with our two caliper bolts. If you were going to use something on these bolts, it's important to remember that you want to use Threadlocker and not Never-Seez. Some people have been known to use Never-Seez, and I don't know, I'd say it's kind of a rookie mistake only because for me personally, I like for these brake caliper bolts to not come off without a little bit of force rather than come off very easy because it's my brakes. You can go with something like a little bit of Threadlocker or nothing. Whatever you want to do. Either way, there is a torque specification for these. It's 72 foot-pounds. I'm just putting on a little bit of Threadlocker because that's how I roll. I'm going to get my bracket here. The 10s might fall off while I'm doing this. It's okay, I'll just put them back on. I'm really not worried about it.

There we go. There's one. There we are. The both of these started. I'm going to go ahead and bottom them out, and then I will torque them down. 72 foot-pounds with my 17mm socket. There we are. I'm going to torque these down, 72 foot-pounds. There's one. Get this off of here. Do the same to the other one, hopefully. There we are. Nice and tight. Those are going nowhere. Now, we'll go ahead. We'll push back that caliper. We'll get the piston nice and ready so we can slide it over our brand new pads once we get those on, then we'll keep on rolling.

We got our caliper up here. I've got some hose crimpers. I'm just going to put these on, give them a little squeeze. That's nice. I've got my recycling receptacle, 10mm. I'm just going to pop this free, just like that. Got a little bit of fluid coming out, so we know that the bleeder screws opened up. That's nice. Sometimes you'll open them and they'll still be plugged up, in which case you'll want to take it completely out and clean it because what we do not want to do is force any fluid back up this line and into your ABS unit. That's what this is going to help with as well, little clampy sphere hose. Let me get my clamp ready here. Now, what I'm going to do is try to squeeze this piston. I'm going to try to push it back up into the caliper. I'm just going to go nice and slow.

Feels like we're pretty much there now. Get this off of here. Let me give the fluid a second and make its way down and through, and then push any air that might have went up in on out and then down my line. I'll get my wrench ready, 10mm. Pull this off of here. We've got fluid coming out. That's a good sign. Snug that up. I'm going to be taking it back off in a minute, or loosening it back up, I should say. We don't need to worry about super tightening it down yet. Just get all my fluid down the line. Now, I'm going to clean this off a little bit so I don't have brake fluid getting all over my hands while I work.

We're going to take our brake pads, the one with the squealer goes on the back side or the piston side, and it also goes facing down. If you've got one with a squealer facing up, well, just switch it out with the other side. We'll get that on there. Do the same for the front. Just hold them in as we go here. I just want to show you, I'm going to put a little bit of lubricant here. It's going to help with vibration dampening, noise driving down the road and whatnot. Just along the piston there, and then along the little fork sides. You don't really need it anywhere else, so don't waste your time, or money. Slide that right on there. We've got our two caliper, two bracket bolts. You can use Threadlocker if you like. It's your prerogative. Just don't use Never-Seez, please.

Get that started in and get this one started in. Once they're both started, we'll go ahead and tighten them up. There is a torque specification, so all I'm going to do is bottom them it out. There we are. Let's grab the torque spec. Now, it's time to torque these down. I just want to let you know that the caliper slider heads themselves is a 17, so if you find it that the caliper slider is spinning when you're trying to torque or tighten it down, you can just go ahead and use the 17 and it should be fine. You can drop it on the floor, it likes it there.

One more time. Sometimes your wrench might be a little bit thick, like mine, so if that's the case, well, you're going to have to figure it out. You could also try to use some locking pliers in there if they're a little thinner for you. We'll do it one more time here. There we are, so 23, 23. Now that we've got this all together, the next thing that you're going to want to do is you're going to go up inside the vehicle, pump up the brake three to five times, nice and slow. You don't want to jam on it. Just nice and slow, one, two... three to five times.

After that, you can come on out here. You're just going to open this up, and when you're watching the fluid, you want to see a nice, slow drizzle of only brake fluid. If you see little air bubbles coming out, that's good because that means you're burping out any air that might be stuck inside there, but you need to wait until all that air comes out. Then, you close it off. Once you're at that point, you clean it down. You go up top. Make sure you top off your brake fluid with whatever fluid it's supposed to be, and then that's it. Make sure it's nice and clean and you're safe to go down the road.

Time to get the wheel back up on here. I'm just going to go ahead and lift it up. Center cover, hubcap, whatever you want to call it. We're just going to bottom these out with our 21mm socket and our long ratchet. Once they're all bottomed out, we'll bring it down on the ground and torque them up.

Now, we're going to go ahead and torque these down with our 21mm to 80 foot-pounds. We're going to do a star pattern. One here, here, here, here, here. I'm just going to go around.

Thanks for watching.

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