2012 Hyundai Azera Front Driver Side Outer Tie Rod TRQ PSA68477

Hey, friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today, we're working on a 2110 Hyundai Sonata. We're going to be doing an easy job, an outer tie rod end. If you need this or any other part, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

Okay, friends. First thing we have to do is make sure we have our vehicle supported. We're going to raise it a little bit off the ground. But what we want to do is make sure that the wheel is still on the ground, at least barely touching, with minimal weight of the vehicle on it. Because we want to start loosening up these lug nuts while it's still on the ground. If you're using an air gun, well, you don't have to do any of this. But for the purpose of this video, we're going to go caveman style.

So now I've got those loose. Let's make sure that the vehicle is properly supported as it should be, and then we'll go up. We're going to continue with our 21 mm. We're going to remove all these lug nuts. What I like to do is I'll get one so it's almost all the way off, maybe just a few threads on. If you're not sure how far on it is, you can just take it all the way off and then go a few threads on. Now I'm clear to remove all the rest of the four. I can take those right off and I don't have to worry about the wheel falling off. Then I can hold onto it without my tool in my hand, take off the last lug nut, put it down safely. Okay? That one's on pretty good.

Now I'm holding my wheel so it can't fall down and hurt me. I'm going to take off this one last lug nut. There it is. Take down that. Hold my wheel with two hands. I'm going to put it aside so it's nice and safe. I'm going to grab my safety glasses, put them on. This right here is a tie rod jam nut. All right? I'm going to take some long pliers. When you get it on, just going to turn it. There we go. What you're going to need to do is you're probably going to need to ... Wow. Oh, I sprayed it down so it came loose pretty easy. It's always a good idea to spray down everything you're going to be working on, too, by the way. I used some penetrant. I just sprayed right here. I'm going to spray up here, everything that I'm going to be taking off. You don't have to worry about anything that I'm not showing on this video. But I am doing multiple videos here.

I tried to spray down everything ahead of time. So basically, break through the jam nut so it can spin. It's much easier to do now while it's still all attached. Okay? Now I'm going to grab a 14. I'm going to remove this bolt right here and this one right here. Get this out of the way so we can move our caliper. We're going to hang it so it's not hanging on the brake hose. What you might notice when you turn this, the inner part turns a little bit as well. So you can use something as basic as pliers or if you have the right size wrench you can use that. For the purpose of this video I'm just going to say we'll use pliers, because it's easier to have on hand. Most people have that probably sitting right by their side just in case, right next to their bed, maybe even. Who knows?

That's what it looks like, just a 14 mm head, pretty simple. I'm going to take the next thing, something as simple as this, the little hooky do tool. Okay? Basically, I'm going to be using this to hang my caliper and I'm going to hang it on whatever I can find that won't move. Maybe I'll go right on the strut coil spring. Okay? Here we go. Take out this last bolt. There it is. It's the same as the other one, so there's nothing special about it. You don't have to worry about mixing them up. I'm going to grab my small pry bar. You can use whatever you have, a screwdriver or whatever. Some kind of prying device. Go like that. While we have our caliper off, we'll just take a peek, so if it looks like it's leaking around this seal, around the piston. This one looks good.

If it was leaking, we can go ahead and replace that. But we're not going to worry about that, because it's not. Just get it right out of the way. The reason for removing that to get the outer tie rod end is because it was blocking right here, which is where our nut and cotter pin are. So now that the caliper's off we have a nice clear view of what's going on. I'm going to grab a pair of cutters. I'm going to see about getting this cotter pin out and then I'm going to use a 17 mm and I'm going to remove that nut. This particular cotter pin isn't just a regular straight through cotter pin peened over. This one's just got a little scoopy thing on it. Yours might be different. Basically, for you, just get the cotter pin out, okay?

But for this one, all I'm going to do, pop it out. I'm going to put it on the floor so I can find it later. That's what this particular one looks like, something special. If you lose it or it's broken, just replace it. Easy peasy. You're going to use a 17 mm right on here. If the pad little thing right here is in the way, squealer, just pull it out. Take a look at it. Looks good. If you need to, you could replace it. Show you a video on that if you want. All right, so now I'm going to take my 17. I'm going to turn it to the left. I'm going to try to remove this nut. There it is. It's a castle nut. It's got all the slots. Okay? I'll show you what those are about when we're putting it back together.

To remove this outer tie rod ... If you weren't replacing it ... Right? Let's say you weren't. I am, but if you weren't, you've got the outer tie rod right here. What you want to do is you want to hit right up here. This is the knuckle, the part that's connected up to your strut and everything. It's called a knuckle. This is your tie rod and there's your boot. Okay? You would want to hit right on the knuckle itself and not on the tie rod stud. Just keep bonking this with your hammer. Bonk, bonk. You want to go harder, of course. You'd want to get it to break free and come on down. Okay?

For me, I'm replacing it, so I'm really not worried about messing anything up. I could go with something like this, basic pickle fork. It just slides in between the knuckle and the tie rod. You bonk on the end and it'll break free. Or you could go even easier than that. Because once again, I'm replacing this, so I'm not worried about the condition of anything at this point. I'm just going to put on this nut, so when I bang on it, it'll fall down but it won't go too far. Then, I'm just going to take my hammer just like that. We'll just take that nut off. I got my ratchet again. Bring it down. Here we go. So now we're clear to remove this. Just go ahead and turn it to the left so it'll unscrew. Boy, this thing's bent. Just kidding. That's the way it's supposed to be. So I guess in that instance it would be considered curved. There we are. Now we've removed our outer tie rod end. We'll compare it to the new one and we'll go from there.

Okay, friends. We have another product comparison for you right here. We have our outer tie rod ends. This one's out of our 2011 Hyundai Sonata. We just removed it. As you could tell, it's in cruddy condition. It's time for it to go. We've got our brand new, quality 1A Auto part right here. Okay? It doesn't have a grease fitting but that's okay. It's a sealed unit. It has a neoprene ball and socket unit in there. So when the ball moves around as you're steering and going over bumps and everything, there's a neoprene seal in there and it keeps everything moving as it should. Okay? You don't need to have a whole bunch of yucky grease coming out and causing drips in your driveway or doing whatever grease does. This is sealed and it's good to go.

As you can tell, you look at them up next to each other, they both have that same nice curvy wave. Everybody loves the nice curves, right? Looks good. It's the same length so you don't have to worry about that. If you happen to have one and for some reason your curve goes this way and your old one's like that, well, just think about that. We probably have one for the other side of the vehicle. Things happen. Maybe it was ordered wrong. Maybe it was shipped wrong. God knows. But I just basically wanted to show you. The curve goes the same way. The length is the same. We've got our stud, got a brand new nut. That's always wonderful. We've got our threaded area. It's in good condition, well, new condition, really. Right? Of course, it is coated. So I don't see any reason why this wouldn't be a perfect part to install in your vehicle. If you need this or any other parts, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com.

Now I'm going to put my outer tie rod on here. I'm going to screw it in until it lines up with this hole right here. We didn't move the knuckle or anything like that, try to turn it, so the wheel should still be straight the way it was. If you were worried about that, way back at the beginning when you were taking off your outer tie rod ends, you could have counted the threads. That's completely up to you. This is going to an alignment specialist, so to me, I just have to have it as close as possible. Then, the person doing the alignment can take care of the rest. I'm going to grab my outer tie rod end. I'm just going to turn it to the right, take my nut off. Brand new nut. Looks like it's a little smaller than the other one, so we'll be using a different tool to put it in.

Let's see. It looks like I can maybe go in another thread or two, or a turn or two. See how that looks. There we are. Just put it up in there. I'm going to tighten up this nut right here. I'm just going to bottom it out. There is a torque specification for it. I'll get it for you. So for our new nut, it's a 16 mm, so it's a little smaller than the original one we had. That's okay. It just has to tighten on to that stud. I'm just going to bottom it out and then I'm going to go ahead and grab my torque wrench. It feels pretty good for now. I'll grab my torque wrench. It's set to 32 ft-lb. That's the torque for this. All right? See if I can get it on here. Now, I'm just going to torque it down to 32 ft-lb. Then, I'll have to line up the hole where the cotter pin goes through.

There we are. Okay. As of now, the way that this is sitting, the slot in the nut is not matched up with the hole through the stud. Now, at this point, you don't want to loosen it to get it there. You want to just go to the next available hole. It's close. There we are. Got my cotter pin. Just going to go right through just like that. Push it all the way. Then, I'm just going to grab it if I can here. Here we go. I don't even need my cutters for this. Just going to bring it up, wrap it around. It doesn't have to be anything special. It just has to be bent so it can't make its way out, because that's what's going to hold this nut nice and tight. Okay?

Now we've got this right here. This is our jam nut. Just going to turn it in so it bottoms out with the tie rod. All right. I'm going to use my pliers. I'm just going to tighten it up real quick. There we are, nice and snug. Perfect. Here we go. We'll just get our caliper on here. We'll be good to go. So we've got our inner pad. We're going to put that back in where it belongs. Let's see if I can get it. Here we are. Slid in nice and easy. If it was stiff, you'd want to clean up the pad and make it goes in. Get our caliper back on there. We've got our two caliper bolts. Just going to take them, start them in. There was the torque specification for these, so I'll just get them bottomed out and then we'll go ahead and torque them down. Okay?

The torque on this is between 16 and 23 ft-lb. I'm just going to grab my pliers. Just going to get this on here. Here we go. Do the same thing for the upper one. Once that's torqued down, we'll move on to the next step. So here we go. I'm going to lift up this wheel. I'm going to be careful not to go like this and lift with my back and hurt myself. I'm just going to take it, roll it right up my leg. I'm going to use my ab muscles, lift it up. Put it on here. I've got my hubcap. I'm going to put it up on here. Then, I'm going to hold these all together so it can't fall down. I'm going to grab a lug nut, get them all started on. We'll snug them down a little bit and then we'll torque them.

Okay, here we go. We're going to torque these up with our 21 mm socket to 80 ft-lb. You're doing a star pattern. It's super important. When you go around the second time, if you choose to, you can go however you want. But to do the star originally is so that when you go like this, you tighten it here, it goes on. If I was to go here, it would push this side on. But what if it was kind of sitting off-kilter, right? That would be bad. So I went here, here, sucked it all in, boom, boom, boom. Make a nice pretty star and off we went. 80 ft-lb with a 21 mm socket.

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