Replaces
Part Details
TRQ ignition coils will have your engine running like new. TRQ ignition coils are manufactured to precise specifications using premium raw materials to optimize each vehicle's ignition system. To ensure peak performance, TRQ recommends replacing ignition coils in sets to prevent electrical output imbalances. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
Returns: Parts with electrical components cannot be returned once installed.
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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the ignition coil on this 2005 Hyundai Elantra,which has the 2.0 liter motor. It's actually a fairly easy operation. You do need a 10mm wrench, or socket and ratchet. You'll need a 12mm wrench as well as a 12mm socket with a ratchet and extension.
All right, I've located the coil next to the air box on the left hand side, or driver's side of the engine. Then I'm going to access it by removing four 10mm bolts that hold the engine cover in place.
It's got three 12mm nuts: one here, and two in the back. There's one more nut fastening the coil pack on that's below the upper nut. I'm going to unplug the coil assembly by pressing down on the tab and wiggle it out. I'm using a 12mm deep socket with a quarter inch extension, and I'm going to go in from behind the intake manifold to access the two bolts. If you experience difficulty getting the lower or either of these two bolts out, you can use the wrench hook method, which is putting the closed end on your bolt head, that being the 12mm, and then using one size larger to hook into the open end of this wrench. It'll just give you a little extra leverage. It broke free. We're just going to fast forward as we take those bolts out the back side. Actually, usually once you get them going pretty good, you can reach in there with your hand and pull them out. Then we'll also just keep fast forwarding as he breaks free the nuts that hold on the side and takes those off. There's a clip in the back of the coil pack assembly and I'm going to go ahead and remove it with a screwdriver. Here's a close-up of the wire tie that holds the harness onto the coil pack. You'll see a little tab in there, and if you push down, it opens right up. I'm going to pull out and up the coil pack, and with the spark plug wire still attached, pull it out.
I'm going to transfer the clip back onto the harness. I've got my new coil pack from 1A Auto, and I'm going to transfer over the spark plug wires just as they sit on the original. I'm putting the new coil back in. Reattach the harness. Reinstall my nuts for the front. I'm going to fast forward here. Don basically puts the two nuts on in the front, just kind of hand tightens them, then goes into the back, puts the two bolts into place, and then tightens all four of them up. I'm going to reconnect the connector.
The final step is to put the engine cover back on.
