2022 Ram 1500 Classic V8 5.7L Ignition Coil TRQ ICA61749

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In this video we're going to be working with our 2006 Chrysler 300 3.5 liter V6. We're going to show you how to remove and replace the engine's ignition coil cylinders two and four, here at the driver's side front of the engine, do not need the intake manifold removed in order to replace them. However, the remaining four cylinders will need to and we'll show you how to do that. If you like this video please click subscribe. We have a ton more information on this car as well as many other makes and models and if you need this part for your vehicle, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com. Here are the items you'll need for this repair.

Open the hood latch on your vehicle. Open it fully. The cylinder two and four ignition coils and spark plugs can be done without removing your intake manifold. To do this, we'll disconnect the connector on either one. We'll remove the 10 millimeter bolt at the top with a socket and ratchet. Remove the bolt. You may have to wiggle and pull up a little bit to remove your ignition coil.

Here we have our old ignition coil that we removed from our vehicle and our new part from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, these parts are exactly the same. We have the same length, same boot, the same actual coil on the top with the same single bolt mounting location size and shape, and the same three-pin connector on the back. Now what your ignition coil does, is it has a power and ground going to it from the battery and it has a switched power which is what tells it when to fire, which is what sets your spark plugs off. This is all controlled electronically via the computer n the same way that the rotation of a distributor used to be what determines your firing order on older vehicles. A bad ignition coil can cause the vehicle to not have enough spark or maybe no spark at all which can cause a rich misfire which will harm emissions and potentially the engine as well as creating a check engine light either solid for a lesser misfire or a more serious one will cause the check engine light to flash at which point you should shut the vehicle down immediately. If you need a new ignition coil, this part from 1A Auto it's going to go in direct fit just like your original equipment and fix you up right.

Reinstall your ignition coil. Reconnect the electrical connector. Go ahead and put your 10-millimeter bolt back in and tighten it down with a socket and ratchet. Now this is just securing it in there. I'm just going to get it down as tight as I can by hand here spinning the extension and we'll give it just turn from the top of the ratchet with the wrist just to secure it into place.

To remove your intake manifold we'll loosen the clamp at the throttle body with a flat blade screwdriver. You may want to disconnect this sensor. Looks like ours has been glued on because the clip is broken. You can also simply pop it out of the boot. Disconnect these two hoses from the back of the intake located just behind the throttle body. These just pop off by hand. There's one more at the back of the manifold.

Pull back on the red safety tab, push down and disconnect the sensor from the top of the intake, as well as the two electrical connectors at the front. Disconnect the connector from the throttle body. Again, we have one of those little red safety tabs we have to push down. Then we'll push down the tab and remove the connector.

We'll remove the two 10 millimeter nuts from the throttle body, the seven 10 millimeter bolts from the center of the intake manifold here, as well as the two 10 millimeter nuts over on the passenger side of the intake manifold. We'll do this using a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet where we can and a 10 millimeter wrench where it's a little too tight. Remove the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the throttle body bracket.

We're doing this with a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet. Remove the bracket from the throttle body. There's a 15 millimeter bolt at the bottom of the bracket on the passenger side of the intake manifold, both front and rear. We'll loosen those up with a 15 millimeter wrench until we can slide them off of the studs. Once you've loosened the brackets go ahead and slide them off the studs. Now we'll lift up on the intake manifold, slide it forward to release it from the EGR tube at the back. Once you're off that tube, lift up being careful for that transmission dipstick and remove the manifold from the vehicle.

While the top of the intake manifold is exposed we're going to wad some paper towels in there, just to keep any dirt and debris from getting in there while we're working.

With the upper intake manifold off we can now access the rest of our ignition coils to replace them.

Reinstall all six of your coil packs. Tighten them down with a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet.

Remove the paper towels from the intake. Clean down this mating surface with some solvent and paper towels or a clean rag. Once again I'm using a brake cleaner here, but there's a variety of solvents you can use to get all that old debris and oil off.

Install your PCV breather tube on the back of the valve cover. You've got a nice little marking on it that says PCV with an arrow so you know which end goes where, and the other end should fall just about over here, where the back of the intake will be.

Remove the old gasket from your intake manifold using a small straight pick here, just to get in there and start popping it out. You should be able to remove the rest by hand. Start your new gasket. Line up. Press that in. Our old EGR seal is damaged so remove that. Install our new one. Make sure it sits all the way back past its edge.

Reinstall your intake manifold, being sure to set the opening for the automatic transmission dipstick into its proper place on the manifold. We'll also want to be careful for the bolts. We'll have to line up our EGR tube as well. Just be mindful of all of these things while we set it into place. Once the EGR tube is set and the intake is laid down onto the lower manifold, clip your automatic transmission dipstick back into place and start all of the 10 millimeter bolts by hand, just a couple of threads, to make sure they're all lined up before we tighten them down.

Tighten up the seven 10 millimeter bolts at the center of the intake. We're not going to tighten these down all the way yet. You just want them a little bit and then we'll have to torque them. Torque these bolts to nine foot-pounds. The manufacturer specification is 150 inch-pounds. However, it's a lot easier to do with this wrench and that number rounds up to about nine foot-pounds. We want to start these in the center and work our way out in a cross pattern.

Reconnect the map sensor. Push the safety into place. Reconnect the two intake tuner valve control. Reinstall the support brackets at the front and rear on the passenger side of the intake. We'll start those 10 millimeters on, just a couple of threads to keep it in place. Using a 15 millimeter socket and ratchet to tighten up those two bolts all the way at the bottom of those support brackets. Once the bottom of the support brackets are tighten down you can use the 10 millimeter socket and ratchet to finish tightening up the top two bolts.

Reconnect the PCV hose and this fitting closest to the EGR tube. We have a small hose here, and a large hose next to that. Reconnect the electrical connector onto the throttle body. Lock the safety tab back into place. You can now set the support bracket back over the throttle body bolts. Make sure it doesn't get caught up in any of the wiring down below. We'll spin our two 10 millimeter nuts on at the top by hand, just to keep that in place. Reinstall the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the bracket by hand. Tighten up the two 15 millimeter bolts at the bottom of the bracket with your socket and ratchet. Tighten up the two 10 millimeter nuts at the top.

Install the other end of the intake boot onto the throttle body. Tighten it up with your flat blade screwdriver. Reinstall the coolant tank line bracket on the side of the intake tube. Reinstall the map sensor into the intake tube. Earlier when we removed our intake, we wanted to wait until we had the intake tube reinstalled to make sure this all lined up properly. Now that we've got it where it needs to be we'll go ahead and tighten that down.

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Product review: 1AECI00140.

This is an ignition coil. Here's the original one from my vehicle and the new one from 1A Auto. This fit the Hemi V8 vehicles and you can see the original and the one from 1A Auto are exactly the same, has all the same connectors, and comes with the bolts installed. The only thing you have to add is just a little bit of dielectric grease and it will install just like the original.

Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!

These heavy engines have eight ignition coils, and each coil does two spark plugs and there's two spark plugs in each cylinder. We're going to show you how to remove this ignition coil. This is probably the easiest one on the engine to do. The one on the driver side rear, actually two of the ones on the driver side rear are pretty difficult. But we're going to start with this one and just show you how it comes out, and then we'll give you some tips later on how to do the driver side rear.

We'll start with removing these two 10 millimeter screws. They are really easy to come out. As soon as you crack them loose, you can just spin them up by hand. Then up here you have just a clip that you can push down on and release from the coil. All right, if pushing it down with your thumb doesn't work, you can always go with the screwdriver and just kind of wiggle it up. There we go. With the two bolts out of the way and the connector loose, you can slide this right up and out, and you can see it has these two boots on it. These boots can actually come off as well. They may come off when you do the driver side rear because pulling this out with these boots attached is really, really difficult.

All right, we're now going to slide this right back in. You want to make sure your connector is facing up so you can plug your plug in. Technically removing this engine cover will make it a little easier on yourself. But it's not necessary for this specific coil. All right, the connector's plugged back in. Now we can put these two 10 millimeters right back in the holes. With them tightened by hand, you can go back with your socket and ratchet and just kind of snug them up. You don't need to go too crazy with this. Just making them snug is perfectly fine.

Now if you've ever had to do spark plugs or ignition coils on one of these engines, you know that the driver side rear two ignition coils and all four of those spark plugs are really difficult to access. We would love to show you how to do that, but getting the camera in there to see anything is really difficult. I'm just going to give you a few tips on what I've done in the past to get these things out. A few things you can use are a ratcheting 10 millimeter wrenches to get the coils.

You can reach back, and if you remove this engine cover you have a little bit more swaying room. So you can use a 10 millimeter wrench, if you have a ratcheting one, that one's even better. And then you can get the bolts out. The other thing you can use is quarter drive socket with a swivel on the end, and make sure it's a shallow socket and you should be able to reach in and you can get some of these hard to reach 10 millimeter bolts.

Then once you do get those two 10 millimeters out of each coil, and you remove the plug on the top. You can just bend the coil out of the way because the boots are flexible. The only thing you have to watch out for is when the boot comes off there's a little tiny metal pin inside the boot and that's going to fall and you might lose it. So you have to be prepared to have that little pin pop out of the boot if you are going to remove the boots with the coil being separate. Those are a couple of my tips. It's definitely a challenge to do and it'll take a while, but hopefully that'll help you out and get you fixed up right.

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