Replaces
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Hi, everyone. Sue here at 1A Auto. Today, we're putting front links in our '07 Mazda 3 Sedan. If you need this part or any other part for your car, head on over to 1AAuto.com.
We're going to loosen the lug nuts with the weight of the car on the tire, and it's a 21 millimeter. Now, you're going to raise the vehicle with a jack and jack stands or two pulse lift if you have that. Now, I can take the lug nuts off. It's up in the air. Front sway bar links. We're going to remove the top bolt then the bottom.
This nut is a 14 millimeter, and the Allen head is a five millimeter. So, break it free first. I'm going to put that together. There we go. The top ones the easier one. The bottom one not so much, but we can get to it. I've seen a lot worse.
Going to take the nut off and the bracket off. Set that aside. We're going to push that out. We're going to move down to the bottom. The bottom nut on the sway bar link is the same as the top. It's a 14 millimeter and we got to pull down. Break that free, and stud is already spinning in place. I'm hoping that I can get a Allen head in there with the angle of that sway bar. Might have to move to a set of Allen wrenches instead of a ratchet.
I have a set of stubby Allen head sockets. Let's hope that this gets in there. It's probably so rusted that it won't even go in. We're going to do it the old school style. Going to put a pair of locking pliers on the back here. Lock them in, and break that nut free. Let's see how we can get in here at this angle. Let's see. There we go. Wonderful. Nice.
Now, I'm going to move probably to a ratchet wrench and speed this process up. Okay. This one was really on there. We got it though. There's the old link. That's still factory.
Here we have the front sway bar link to our '07 Mazda 3 Sedan. This is ones from 1AAuto.com. It's the same length as the factory and same design. Sealed bushing, so it's self-greasable. And the nice thing about this one is it has a cutout notch to fit a wrench in there. A 16 millimeter wrench holds in there instead of if you watch the video. I had to use vice grips on that to hold that still. That's a nicer design because less chance of cutting the boot and destroying it. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
Going to install. We're just going to reverse proceduring and put the bottom one on first. Probably line it up from the top here. Maybe. New ones much tighter than the old one, which is a good thing. The joints don't want to move. Put the nut on hand-tight so it won't pull back out.
Put the bottom one on. The new nut is a 15 millimeter. The factory was 14. These nuts are 15. The inside holding is a 16 millimeter wrench. I've got my 16 millimeter wrench holding the backside.
I'm going to start tightening up this bottom nut. Now, that I've got that tight, I'm going to torque it in the torque specs on the sway bar links is a 40 foot-pounds. I'm going to just do the bottom without even tightening the top because I've got my wrench in there and going to take full advantage of that. There we go. Get that off.
Now, we'll move up to the top. Now, that it's in steady, the bottom's tight, and we take the nut back off so I can install that bracket. Same up here. 15 millimeter nut. 16 holding the back of it. 40 foot-pounds. All set there. Wrench comes nice right out. You're all set.
Now, you just have to do the other one because everything's done in a pair when it comes to sway bar links. Happy fixing.
Once I lower this to the ground, always tighten wheels in a star pattern. Now, wheel torque on our '07 Mazda 3 is 87 foot-pounds. Always go around twice.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Hey everyone, Sue here at 1A Auto. And today we're installing outer tie rod ends on our '07 Mazda 3 sedan. These came from 1A Auto, so if you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1A Auto.
Keep in mind before this repair, set up an appointment with your local alignment shop and you're going to need an alignment afterwards.
We're going to loosen the lug nuts with the weight of the car on the tire and it's a 21 millimeter. Now you're going to raise the vehicle with a jack and jack stands or a two post lift if you have that. Now I can take the lug nuts off. It's up in the air.
This is the inner tie rod end. It has a bellow boot that covers the end that screws into the power steering rack, and this is your outer tie rod end. This is a jam nut. This is where adjustments are made for a tow on a car. I'm going to start by spraying the jam nut and the upper part of the outer tire rod end. Let that soak. I'm going to break the jam nut free first. It's a 24 millimeter on this Mazda 3. Now that's broken free and spinning I have to undo the top nut to the outer tie rod end, take this cotter pin out. We discard it because we're going to use a new one. The nut is a 14 millimeter socket. It's kind of rusted so just wiggle it on down there. I'm going to break it free. Now I'm going to take a hammer and hit the end of the knuckle where the tie rod end goes in to pop the stud out.
Here we have outer tie rod ends on our '07 Mazda 3 sedan. This one is from 1aauto.com, and this is the one we took out. The one from 1aauto.com is stamped clearly, R for right side, the passenger side, comes with its own new castle nut and a cotter pin. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
Now I'm just going to put some anti-seize on the threads. Now install the outer tie rod end. Thread it on up to the jam nut. I'm going to bring it up, put it in the knuckle, install my castle nut. The new one is a 16 millimeter socket. There is no torque for this. I just really want it down tight. There we go.
Now I can install my cotter pin. Just fold that over. That just stops the nut from possibly on back threading out. I like to squeeze all sharp edges down, only fair to somebody. Now we're going to take our wrench and tighten up the jam nut. You want that snug right down because you do have to drive it to the alignment shop. That's a 24 millimeter wrench, same as the old one. There we go. Once I lower this to the ground always tighten wheels in a star pattern. And our wheel torque on our '07 Mazda 3 is 87 foot-pounds. Always go around twice.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Hi everyone, this is Sue from 1A Auto. Today we're installing an inner tie rod end from 1A Auto on our '07 Mazda 3 sedan. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
Keep in mind, before this repair, set up an appointment with your local alignment shop, and you're going to need an alignment afterwards. We're going to loosen the lug nuts with the weight of the car on the tire, and it's a 21 millimeter. Now you're going to raise the vehicle with a jack and jack stands, or a two post lift, if you have that. Now I can take the lug nuts off. It’s up in the air.
This is the inner tie rod end. It has a bellow boot that covers the end that screws into the power steering rack and this is your outer tie rod end. This is a jamb nut, this is where adjustments are made for a tow on a car. I'm going to start by spraying the jamb nut and the upper part of the outer tie rod end. Let that soak. I'm going to break the jamb nut free first, it's a 24 millimeter on this Mazda3. Now that that's broken free and spinning, I have to undo the top nut to the outer tie rod end.
Take this cotter pin out and discard it, because we're going to use a new one. The nut is a 14 millimeter socket. It’s kind of rusted so just wiggle it on down there. Now I'm going to break it free. Now I'm going to take a hammer and hit the end of the knuckle, where the tie rod end goes in, to pop the stud out. Now we remove the jam nut, and I'm going to remove the clamp on the outer part of the bellow boot, and I'm going to have to cut the inner clamp off. I'm just going to try to pinch and tweak it so that it breaks free. You cannot reuse it. There you go.
For easy access, I take a pocket screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, I'm going to try to pry this bellow boot up, and then I'm going to spray. See if that works all the way around. Now I'm going to grab the bellow boot from inside, and hopefully just pull it right off. At this point, I'm checking my bellow boot. Make sure there's no tears and no holes. You don't want any rain, salt from the winter, dirt getting inside the rack and pinion. This is an inner tie rod end tool. This is the tool I'm going to be using. This is like a wrench and it goes over the hex on the back of the inner tie rod end. Rest it on there, and then I'm going to slide it into the slots and turn the lock. The lock thing just turns like that. Then I'll use a nice half inch ratchet and twist it free. Now with it all set up right. Got it. So now you can see me turn it. That's your inner tie rod end.
Here we have our inner tie rod end to our '07 Mazda3 from 1AAuto.com. It comes with a new jamb nut, grease, once you install it you'll pack the inner joint, and a lock. The lock slides on the end, on the power steering rack side. Here we have the one that I took out. Now, I don't know if this is factory or aftermarket. There's no way you're telling if the car has some high miles on it, but they are identical in height and length, and that's what you need to look for. Whenever you do tie rod ends or anything in suspension, you want it to be the same. If you need this part or any other part for your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1AAuto.com.
Now we have our new inner tie rod end, and the new one came with a lock. I thought it was kind of funny when I took the old one off, the lock was missing. So that tells me it's not factory. Someone else had installed it and neglected to install a lock. This is kind of self explanatory. See the key ways. They sit right in those notches that the manufacturer has cut out. So I'm going to put a dab of thread lock on there, and then I'm going to install it.
So I have some thread lock on there, and I'm just going to hand thread it in. I'm going to try to line up that lock and those notches before that tie rod end bottoms out. There we go. Hold that with my fingers. Bring that down. Perfect.
Now I can install my inner tie rod end tool. Tighten this up. Now, it's important when tightening this, not to rank on it, because you'll damage the gears inside that power steering rack. So I'm bottomed out here. I'm going to give it like a quarter of a turn, and go by feel. That's nice. There is no torque for that. There we go. Then I get a long brass punch, and I raise the vehicle up and I'm going to fold the lock pin over. It's like a lock washer.
Now I'm going to move down to another angle, a different side. I'd like to get as many of them bent over as I can. There we go. That's good. Two tabs over, secure. You got to take your jamb nut off. Now we got to pack the inner tie rod end with the grease that's provided. I'm just going to place it in there, and then I'm going to pack it in with my fingers. Rotate the ball around, and make sure I can maybe push some of that grease into the back of the joint, as much as I can in there.
To help out the person that does the alignment, I'm going to put some silicone paste right there on that bellow boot. Trust me, if they don't say thank you, they mean it. If the boot is dry on the tie rod end when they're spinning it to make the adjustment on the tow, if the boots dry it sticks to the tie rod end. I've seen many of times where they're twisted like a spiral. What that ends up leading to, is torn bellow boots, and then you're looking at a $1000 rack and pinion, so let's not do that.
It has a notch and it just clicked right into the notch, and we're going to slide the inner part over. There we go. I just squeeze my clamp, reuse my old clamp, and put it on. Take just a plastic tie, I'm going to slide that in. Put it right on that plastic groove, over the plastic bellow boot. There we go. Make sure it's in that groove, and make sure it's tight. Cut her off.
To assure that I have this as close as to the alignment that it was at before, I drive it to my local alignment shop. I want to put the jamb nut an equal amount, all the way in, to line up with that rust line. So I know I got quite a way to go, so I'm just going to bring it in until I think I'm close. Line up my old tie rod end, looks like it could be getting there. I'm going to line it up by lining the end of the tie rod end. Making sure the threads are the same length, and they are.
I can see that I need to turn it a couple more turns. I feel good with that. Now I'm just going to put some anti-seize on the threads. Now install the outer tie rod end. Thread it on, up to the jamb nut. Now I'm going to bring it up, put it in the knuckle, and install my castle nut. The new one is a 16 millimeter socket. There is no torque for this. I just really want it down tight. There we go.
Now I can install my cotter pin. Just fold that over. That just stops the nut from possibly, on back threading out. I like to squeeze all sharp edges down, only fair to somebody. Now we're going to take our wrench and tighten up the jamb nut. You want that snugged right down, because you do have to drive it to the alignment shop. That's a 24 millimeter wrench, same as the old one. There we go. Once I lower this to the ground, always tighten wheels in a star pattern. Our wheel torque on our '07 Mazda 3 is 87 foot-pounds. Always go around twice.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
